Just Jeff

OK I' think I'll give it a shot. Yours is the first suggestion I've gotten that comes with a understandable explanation of what's happening and why. So maybe this would be a good place for a varistor/potentiometer. What do you think?

I've tried it on both. The first CRT was noticeably dark, same with one of my LCDs. I was able to do a decent adjustment another CRT, but I'd definitely like to improve the performance of the mod if possible so it works better overall. I wish could find suggestions that also mentioned what the components (for removal) are for. Are you sure about removing that resistor? That is yet another different solution.

Thanks I completed the mod and its got a clear picture but... Its too dark. And I think the sound is a little weird sometimes. Apparently that's very common. I've seen many variations on how to correct it. Yours is the first I've seen that shows that specific combination of resistors. Not sure which to do.

Yeah... Re-watching the video, it looks like his yellow is connected to his Audio In on the new board which is counterintuitive I think. He also had me snap off the RF board. I would have much rather unsoldered the whole assembly with the shield which I saw someone do in another. Outstanding questions: Is it OK that transistors 3 and 4 are connected with solder? I don't want to unsolder any of it if I can help it. New questions: Should I have removed any resistors? In another video, I saw someone remove two but I didn't do any. I did remove the one transistor behind the tall red thing in picture 3 (unseen) My right side difficulty switch is sheared off. Can I remove the channel selector switch and use it for a difficulty switch? They look identical.

Good Afternoon, I completed a composite mod on one of my 2600s and have some questions that I was hoping someone experienced with it could help me out with.. When it arrived the instructions were literally "watch one of the many videos online" so I did that. I have not turned it on yet, mostly because I do not think it is correct. Tracing things out on the 2600 board, I believe the yellow and blue wires are reversed. Are they? (The blue looks almost white in the pics.) Here is a picture of the board that came with it: And here is where I connected everything from the bundle of 4 wires on the left side of the picture above which appears to be the input. I feel like yellow and blue may be reversed. Pins 1, 3, and 4 were used. Pin 4 is connected to the wire labelled "Audio In" on the new board. I feel like this should probably be video. Should it?: Additionally, I put this wire on the 4th resistor from the right but my solder is bleeding onto the 3rd resistor. Is this OK? They look like the traces might connect them anyway. Do they? I think these are correct: Yellow is on the yellow jack, and blue is connected to the red and white jacks. These wires came out of the right side of the new board.

Hey checkout the BBlocks nominations that Jeremiah and I received below! Voting has started! 3rd Annual Atari Homebrew Awards (2020): Voting Information & Discussion - Atari Homebrew Awards! - AtariAge Forums

Yeah that's why.. though while doing it I did find lots of Dark Side art, and wondered what's OK. I do really like that one because it represents the game elements- black background, something happening that makes primary and secondary colors. Then I corrected Pink Floyd's error by replacing the prism with a block. When it was done, I pondered a game change where instead of falling in from the top, the blocks would be refilled by a white laser-like beam from above, making the imagery complete.

Almost rolled it..

Something like this maybe?

Starting turn our attention to packaging design. None of this is usable but it was fun. Does anybody have any cool ideas?

Good Evening! JeremiahK and I have written a new game and were wondering if any artists would like to design the box, instructions, and label? Here is a link to the game discussion: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/308157-bblocks-completed/page/4/#comments Please let us know if you are interested!

Part of your flicker on #2, has to do with your scanline count/frame rate of 266/59.1. That pulse that happens every second or so will go away if you get that to 262/60. I think I can see that on the others as well though its not as distinguishable.

One million points...

OK.. Scribus improved things for me. I figured out some things, not others. I have not figured out line spacing though I tried. I also need to look into kerning too. Also eyeballed more than I should have.. The inserted image is just a placeholder image that I made with GIMP.

Hmm good to know. I'm out of my element here. Would Scribus be more appropriate?

Yeah I'm looking to design too.. Where that site asks for an image, I need to design that image.

Good evening.. I just installed GIMP so I can design a box, cart label, etc, for an Atari 2600 game. Does anyone have any existing files they can send me that I can use as a template? Or point me to a place where I can get them for Atari?

Hey check it out.. I was catching up on ZeroPage Homebrew and found that we're on Plus Cart!

OK well we extended it from 9 seconds to 15 seconds and will post that later..

I never use one.. I do use VSCode for writing source code and I know there is a hex editor extension available for it.

Try posting the full source code here..

What do you think would be an appropriate time to wait for the hint?

Good Morning.. The game is complete! Release Candidate attached below. We're looking for trouble so if you download the version below and find any issues and huh?s, please let us know. As a reminder, the game versions are: 1- Standard single player game 2- Timed version. Currently set at 70 seconds. 3. Battle the status bar. Status bar decreases with time, but when you make a match, it increases. If it runs out, you lose. If you fill it, you advance to the next level. 4. Standard two player game. Finish a turn, then its the other player's turn. 5,6,7 are two player versions of 1,2, and 3 where both players are playing simultaneously and cooperatively (not competing with each other) 8. Block matching death battle. Two players add to, or subtract from the status bar to defeat the other player. BBlocks2020DEC12.bin

Latest version attached! Please let us know if you find any bugs/weirdness! New features include: Game 4 now alternates players between each move, not between completed boards. Sound effect changes- different switch sounds for each player. Also incrementing switch sounds for multiple runs of matches. Game 4 difficulty switches now operate independently for each player. Hint delay timer now starts after an attempted switch instead of any joystick movement. Bug fixes On a side note, there was also some more kernel cleanup and it looks a lot neater as you can see below. We took greater advantage of playfield masking including the thin purple line above the score kernels which made a huge difference as far as timing constraints and code size while setting up the score (or game number) main.asm.bin

OK Thanks I finally found the second version and deleted it. Afterwards, launching from file explorer showed it could not find the associated program. But this time, the new association stuck. And VS Code seems to be sticking with 6.4.. Thanks!