SiberianSpForces

My Pac-Man had a line on the display out and I just reheated the solder joints for that line and fixed it. The 1p joystick has a contact issue when I press down. IIRC, there's metal strips that touch the dots for each direction. I scraped the dot and that helped, but it's not totally fixed.

Greatly appreciated! I'll PM you.

Got both pots cleaned up. One of the bottom halves still has that peg that holds the switch. I ended up cutting a tip from a Nerf dart and glued it to the top half. Now I hope I still have the bottom half to the 2nd paddle.

I got my 6'er in the late 90's from a neighbor's garage sale. System, 2 paddle and joystick controllers, and 20 some odd games for $10. Only thing I have had to do to the system is resolder the power jack joints. Then I plan on a snagging a cap kit.

I think I'll do that!. Be easier than designing, then printing a part.

I recently found my paddle controllers a few days ago. I noticed on both the red side buttons fell in the controller. Popped them open and seen the 2 tabs behind the red button have snapped off. Wondering if anyone has encountered this issue and what did you do to fix it.

On my LCD 32"; Coax/RF 2600 Intellivision (if I can get it working) Video 1/S-video with Pelican Switchbox SNES 64 Gamecube Dreamcast PSX PS2 Saturn(composite, no s-video) Video 2 (RCA composite) TG16 PC Engine HDMI PS3 PS4 I'd like to get another switchbox for the non s-video systems.

I swapped transformers and that's when the C11 blew. Now I got another PS hooked up. Unplugged.

AC tested the transformer; Y & B - 17.5 G/Y & G/G - both are 9.1 G & G - 18.6 Swapped out the remaining socket chips too. The logic board looks great. No burns or bloated caps. Now when I reset, colored lines flash.

I swapped STIC's and still a black screen, but if I run a small Flathead or Allen key over the reset pad, it will flash vertical b&w lines and rarely purple/green flashes.

The blown C11 is on the original supply. I got an eBay donor system to replace the original transformer. I could hear it cooking itself internally. Once I slapped on the donor transformer, that's when the C11 blew. I'll swap switches and see what happens, then get a new one to try.

It's the original. Here's what I got from the power supply board; 2 pin/blue wire - 12.68 Ribbon plug; 5.16 11.98 13.81 0 -2.16 Iirc, no flash when resetting, but I will double check this evening.

Cjameslv and metarog couldn't have said it better.

I recently dug out my TG16 that a friend gave me years ago. Hooked it up with a NES RF box and universal NES/SNES power supply and got white screened. Made my own RCA composite cable and printed off a harness that fits the serial port and success! Now I'm getting ready to make an adapter so I can use my Duo controller and multi tap.

*Post move bump*

Curious to see what you are asking for Bomberman.

Tested 5 so far. The cart contacts so far are still shiny. I also sprayed a little bit of contact cleaner on the cart plugin and bent the pins down just a hair.

Quick to ship! Very good seller in my book!

I was using the RF box from a NES. I just found the original cable and I have a coax adapter on. It just does a black screen.

Did some testing. I started at the 2 prongs that would connect to the logic board. That came out at 12.68. Then the ribbon plug; 5.16 11.98 13.81 0 -2.16 On the 7805 and 7812, I tested both outside prongs. I had to test the 7812 from the backside of the board. 7805-12.70/5.16, 7812-17.85/11.99

Be willing to separate the N8? If so, how much?

Scored a Partstellivision off eBay and it arrived yesterday. I swapped out the transformer and within 30 seconds, a small cap blew. So I swapped power supplies and so far, nothing burning up. The picture on channel 3 is scrambled lines while channel 4 has multicolored snow. I am open to suggestions on what to tinker with next.

I be interested in a few games for the $3 Intelli lot. PM'ing.