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Everything posted by fluxit

  1. It hasn't been updated recently, AFAIK. Ballblazer and most other games are very playable on it though. Yes it does passable pokey. Just to confirm, I just smashed drones 1-3 and beat drone 4, 7 to 1(timeup) with both of us scoring once in our own goals. It was 3 to 3 when I got in the groove. It's been a while since I've played. I need to scrounge up a human player.
  2. Did you zip the files from the finder? If so, that's likely your problem. Also, you only want the .A78 for Wii7800. Try this, on your Mac open a terminal in the folder where your non-working .zips reside(on an sd-card I presume.) From the command line, do an "unzip -Z ./insert_file_name_of_offending_zipfile" and post the results.
  3. I've confirmed that they do in fact work on the 7800 as standard controllers, and as paddles(with the Y splitter.) Funnily enough, I need to refix my original Y splitter. Back in the day, I diagnosed a short in one side of it, and opened the cable with a razor knife. I then stripped the wires, twisted them together and taped it up with cellophane tape. I didn't even own a soldering iron back then. It still works today ;-P.
  4. As I recall, having had a Gemini BITD, it works just like a normal controller. In order to use the paddle function, you need to plug the controller into a Y splitter. I'll dig them out, and give it a try for you on my 7800 to be sure.
  5. Your picture urls are local to your computer. You need to upload the pictures to the forum.
  6. fluxit

    RetroN 77

    Just store all of your carts upside down. It's not too difficult to read upside down, and if you're having trouble, you can stand on your head while choosing one.
  7. 1. Are you using the TV/Game switch? 2. See this manual page for an explanation.
  8. Would you prefer censor bars, or fireworks?
  9. Good. I enjoy my cheap 'Mr Joystick' sanwa jlf clone based sticks, and my Seimitsu based stick built by Wyluli Wolf. The clone sticks do show their cheapness, in as far as they require quite a bit more tweaking to get a flawless result. In general however, I appreciate how modular most these arcade parts are. It's easy(and cheap, depending on your requirements) to swap out switches for greater reliability, more or less clicky action, or stiffer verses softer response.
  10. Thinking about the control in light of Trebor's comments, it seems as though you are not taking the role of the 'karateka,' but are instead controlling an android by remote link. This android receives its commands via satellite, and as a result has a consistent response lag time. Luckily, all of your opponents have the same limitation.
  11. After seeing people talking about beating 7800 Karateka, and having completed it on most platforms, I decided to pick up a copy on Ebay about six months ago and give it a try. My experience was the same as yours. I believe it's possible, but while I was able to get used to the poor controls, and forgive the omissions to some degree, that ending is just not at all fun. It doesn't seem fair on this version, and after considering having to do the drudge again for another attempt, it's not going to happen. I say this as someone who could be considered a fan of Karateka. My favorite version is the Apple II. The one that I've played the most is the IBM version. Which is better, kissing the princess or getting killed by her? I more or less alternate.
  12. Where did you bend the levers? If you bend them at the pivot point, it will have no effect on when the switch activates, although if you bend it far enough it may keep the switch from activating. If you bend them just after the lever has passed the button, you should be reducing the 'dead zone' for the stick and increasing the response on the diagonals. If you bend only the end of the lever, it should only affect the diagonals. It sometimes requires more bend than you might think to actually see a difference in the corners. On the other hand, since removing the restrictor didn't do much, your stick may simply have too little throw, and/or your actuator may have been molded slightly too small(or large depending on the shape of the restrictor.) I'd be very surprised if the new stick doesn't work better.
  13. Have you tried manually activating the affected switches, not using the stick/actuator?
  14. Resistors don't typically 'go bad' due to age. I can't think of a single instance where I've had to replace a resistor that hadn't sustained a physical impact in a low voltage, very low current application like the 7800 joystick. What kills resistors is breakdown due to generated(current dissipation) or environmental heat(far exceeding room temperatures,) or mechanical stress due to board flexing or direct impacts to the resistor itself. The resistors in a 7800 joystick are simply not being stressed in any meaningful way during normal use of the joystick.
  15. Do you actually feel it getting hung up? Some of those switch levers can have sharp edges that will bite into the actuator. They shouldn't do that. Have the directions that don't work reliably actually changed on their own(without switch swapping?) How's the spring tension? Is it enough to keep the stick fairly well centered when at rest? Do the switches' levers all make contact with the actuator when the stick is at rest? If so, do some levers seem to have more immediate tension behind them than others? On this stick, when and where those levers make contact with the actuator determines how responsive a particular direction will be. Depending on the tolerance of the switches, some may actually require more travel to activate then they should, but this should be a fairly consistent problem.
  16. That's what I was going to recommend. Removing the restrictor plate temporarily at least should tell you if it is an alignment issue.
  17. The reason that I asked if the problem occurred immediately is twofold: If you haven't greased the actuator(the part on the shaft that actually switches the switches) where it impacts the restrictor gate(if any) or where it impacts the switches or their levers if there is no restrictor on that particular stick, normal wear after a relatively short period of time will generate fine plastic dust which works very well for fouling switches. This dust may or may not obey gravity. And switches don't necessarily foul completely. A fouled switch may still seem to work well when switched 'down' for example, but the change in angle(and usually depth as well) on diagonals can exhibit this problem. In addition, wire routing that allows your wires to be impacted can show this symptom over time as the wires are stressed and/or the connections are moved. On the other hand, if you'd seen this problem immediately, my guess would be either you didn't center the shaft hole correctly in your case when you installed the stick, or again- wire routing issues. Of course it's always possible that you have one or more switches that were iffy when you got them and should be replaced. Cheap sticks tend to come with cheap switches.
  18. Did this stick ever work properly, say immediately after you wired it? Have you checked to make sure that the stick is not internally impacting the wiring? Is the stick's shaft straight? If you disassembled the stick at any point, are you sure that you reassembled the parts correctly? If these are sticks that use standard switches that can be swapped out, try swapping the switches with each other and see if the symptoms change, for example, swap the 'up' switch for the 'right' switch(physically relocate the switches themselves,) If the switches are soldered on a board, rotate the board 90 degrees and rewire accordingly, and again see if the behavior follows the switches. Likewise, to test the wiring, swap the 'up' wire(s) for the left or right. You might need to take notes in this case so you know what behavior is expected. See if the iffy control follows particular wires. A picture or two of the bottom the stick, including the switches and wiring would be helpful.
  19. The control definitely feels a lot better with this version. The changes seem to have introduced a bug that is evident when the dual/three ship is activated. The map disappears and becomes 'a part' of the ship. In addition, and probably related- unless there is an invisible planet boss(no big deal if true, but I suck at hitting it ,) the dual ship made at least one of the bosses invisible, while incorporating the boss energy indicator into the player ship in the same way that the map is made unreadable. -edit- To be clear, I don't currently have a flash cart, but the issue that I'm seeing is evident in both MAME and Stella.
  20. Not bad. It feels kind of like a mashup of Asteroids, Combat, and Space Invaders. It's a little bit strange to be able to fly diagonally, but only shoot up/down/left/right. That's the only thing about this game that makes me wish for 'Asteroids' type controls over what is provided.
  21. 1. No. 2. Either. Resistors are not polarized.
  22. Which joystick? What tests? What were the results of those tests? It could be an electronic problem, a configuration problem, or a mechanical problem. You haven't given us enough information with which to offer an opinion, unless there happens to be a Retrolink expert about.
  23. Will Winky control like his pants have fallen down around his ankles, as in the arcade original? I hope not.
  24. You just need to use your feet in addition to your hands.
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