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fluxit

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Everything posted by fluxit

  1. It'd actually be nice if a version of HiDPI mode(or otherwise larger fonts) was available for the R77. I can read Stella's text if I'm right in front of the TV, but I usually play from the couch which is about 6 or seven feet away.
  2. The boards on Activision carts are just very slightly thinner than those in carts from other companies. If the contacts in your Atari's slot are getting spread to the point where they just barely make usable contact with the carts that do work for you, carts that are dirtier, rougher, or thinner may not work. Are you sure that you've gotten those cart 'fingers' completely clean though? My method is 90% or better isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab until the contacts on that side of the cart look shiny... then I switch to a new swab and clean again. If the swab is still completely white after using it to clean then I'm done with that side. If the carbon on the contacts is still able to turn the swab grey at all, I switch to a new swab and do it again. IOW, just because the contacts *look* clean and shiny doesn't mean that they are actually clean and it does make a difference. If all else fails, it's also usually possible to retension the contacts in the Atari's slot to give it a better grip, but it takes care not to cause damage because the slot contacts are easily over bent. A little goes a long way.
  3. Did anyone else buy a box(or more) of CX-80s back when they were a part of Oshea's(or was it Surplus Software) offerings? I really need to go through my storage and dig out that box. It still contains 2(?) of the three NIB trak-balls that I purchased. I don't even know for sure if they work. They've never been out of the box. The CX-80 from that bunch that I use always leaves me wondering why it doesn't have the model number on its case, causing me to forget if it's a CX-80 or CX-22. The paper label on the bottom says: KM513 5 And "MADE IN U.S.A." is molded into the case bottom below that sticker. I don't use it that way on regular basis as I prefer my Logitech Marble "Mouse" for its comfort and reliability, but I was suitably impressed with how usable the CX-80 is through a 2600-daptor as a computer trak-ball.
  4. I take it that the "galleon" is the green Dracula Koolaid Man at center bottom of the screen? The fish are so polite to not try to eat you as you're reeling one of them in, especially considering how hard the game tries to feed you to them before you even have a chance to control your diver.
  5. Have you verified with a multimeter that the contact for "down" is actually connected to pin 2(or any pin for that matter) on the 9 pin connector? There isn't really anything else to go wrong so far as the Tac-2 is concerned. If everything else on the joystick is working, you either have a short in that wire, a bad crimp or solder connection, or the problem is with the Atari instead of the joystick.
  6. 130xe? Probably. The 130xe schematic shows a 500k color adjustment pot.
  7. fluxit

    RetroN 77

    While testing the Stella 6.1rc1 release for the Retron 77 on my LCD TV(I usually use my CRT through an HDMI converter) I found something strange. First of all, the R77 booted up to Stella's launcher, and everything seemed fine until I tried to run a game. The TV said "No Signal" and showed a black screen. I tried another game and the same thing happened. Enduro showed a flash of game screen followed by blackness and again "No Signal." I didn't see how it could be the case, but seemingly 6.1rc1 was incompatible with my TV while the previous R77 release had no issues. That didn't make any sense to me, so I tried removing the HDMI powered switch from between the R77 and the TV. Now games would display and everything seemed fine. Games looked and played as they should so far as I could tell, until... Missile Command. Every other interceptor missile that I would fire(almost) would be invisible, both during travel time and its explosion. It didn't seem to matter if that second missile was fired immediately after the first, or if there was a pause between- it would be invisible. It didn't matter if the missiles(and explosions) were gone from the screen, that next missile would be invisible if the previous one had been visible, and vice versa. I thought perhaps I had just not noticed that this particular ROM had issues, so I tried other NTSC Missile Command versions. All but one had the same issue of alternating invisible interceptors. I tried PAL versions, and the problem was not present on any of the PAL ROMs. Since I had yet to update Stella on my desktop, I did that and tried 6.1rc1 on my desktop machine with the offending ROMs- the issue was not present on my desktop machine with Stella. I'd not noticed the issue with my other TV and the Retron 77 either. That was when I remembered that I was using a different HDMI cable on one TV verses the other. On the LCD I had simply used the cable that came with the android TV box that's usually plugged into that port on my TV to connect the R77 as well. It turned out that that was the problem. When I retrieved the cable from the CRT and used it with the LCD, Missile Command was no longer missing any missiles. Really strange. I didn't notice anything else out of the ordinary with the 'bad' HDMI cable and Stella. I guess it just goes to show you- just because it seems that an HDMI cable is compatible and working with a particular device, doesn't mean that it actually *is* working correctly.
  8. It's been a while, but I thought that I remembered something related to this. See posts 178 - 182 for more info. Night Driver is even one of the carts that's mentioned wrt failing the R77's cart detection technique.
  9. Wouldn't we expect Night Driver and Basic Math to work? They're 2k games.
  10. It's listed on amazon.co.uk by a seller called "Worldwide Distribution GmbH" in Germany. Cons: The firmware that it ships with is mediocre, but not bad depending upon what you value. Cart compatibility is fair, but of course if it doesn't run your favorite carts, you might not agree. ROM compatibility is good. The console's buttons are a bit on the cheap side. Paddle support via the 9 pin front "atari" ports is very jittery with the Hyperkin firmware. Pros: The unit is small, but solidly built. The Joystick that currently ships with it is fairly good and somewhat robust. It looks cool, IMO:) After updating your firmware to the latest community build, you gain fully up to date Stella compatibility for ROMs and video options and somewhat improved paddle support. With the addition of a USB OTG cable(after updating the R77's firmware) you gain USB device support including some wireless gamepads and access to perfect paddle support via a 2600-daptor.
  11. R77 report: So far I've played Parsec(cart,) Scramble Arcade, Missile Command, Defender, Space Rocks, River Raid, Battlezone, and Star Castle on my CRT TV with effects and scan lines turned off. Scan lines enabled makes it seem as though this TV has some sort of strange problem . The overscan option works great- I needed about a '7' for this TV. I'll try effects and scan lines on the LCD later. My bluetooth controllers need charging. So far I've only been playing with a Trooper. No issues so far, and the image is beautiful.
  12. fluxit

    Paddle Shooters?

    Demons to Diamonds
  13. Might it be Laser Gates?
  14. fluxit

    RetroN 77

    Okay, so I dug out my extra Trooper and compared model numbers. I can confirm that the Trooper that ships with the Retron does in fact have a different number than the one that is sold separately. My joysticks have the same model numbers that yours do, and I do not have any of the original, inferior joysticks.
  15. fluxit

    Auto Fire

    I've heard of this before, though I don't recall ever using it. Does anyone know if it was intended to be a hidden feature?
  16. fluxit

    RetroN 77

    For what it's worth, my R77 does not wobble. IIRC, the original stick has mini tactile switches, causing one of the problems with that stick in that the switches were being crushed by normal usage. The 'Trooper' on the other hand is rubber dome based.
  17. This may be the case. Many receivers are analog video in-analog out, digital video in-digital out and do no video format conversions.
  18. I finally received my Ranger today. Good news and bad news- I was able to degrease and regrease the potentiometer. As a result, I'd say that the turning resistance is reduced by about 60%. It's much better for a game of Super Breakout on my 7800 than it was. I did some careful trimming to eliminate the knob's rubbing on the case of the controller. This is something that Hyperkin can and should fix. The pot is easy to disassemble by cutting the crimps off of two aluminum or tin rivets(pot shaft side) with an Exacto. The rivets still serve a purpose when reinserted, as they hold the plastic pieces together, although they aren't actually necessary to retain the metal(shaft) side as the well in the controller holds the pot securely enough. I suppose that the rivets could be replaced by screws if desired. I soaked the shaft in '3 in 1 oil` to break down the old grease, then used suction to remove the oil. I then filled the inner cavity of the metal with lithium grease and attached a tube to the outer shaft side with a bulb in order to create a vacuum and draw the grease onto the shaft, after which I cleaned away all of the excess with a qtip. The side of the pot(or at least the one in *my* Ranger) opposite of the shaft also has a tiny bit of sticky grease on a contact(physical not electrical) ring that rubs on the cover over the wiper assembly. I used a qtip moistened in IPA to remove the old grease from the cover and from the bottom of the wiper wheel, then applied a tiny bit of lithium grease to replace it. To reduce the slop in the knob, I put a single layer of electrical tape on the sides(only) of the reassembled pot casing. Now the bad news... I still don't like the paddle. The case of the controller is well designed and comfortable to hold at several different angles, but the knob leaves my 'knob hand' feeling cramped when I have it between my finger and thumb in such a way as to have enough travel without repositioning my finger mid turn. The knob is simply too small as it is positioned in the controller to be comfortable to use, at least for my medium sized hands. 'Increasing the resolution' of the pot via resistors isn't likely to be a good solution, as the amount of travel once reduced is(IMO) going to be too small for comfort(brain) for most people even if it allows for the knob to be cradled more comfortably by the fingers. The button works well, and the thumb stick is good enough for being a thumb stick(which I don't really like on any controller that I've tried) although the travel could be reduced by half, IMO(something that could be accomplished with the addition of resistors, though I'm not motivated to do so.) As it isn't being used as a real analog stick I don't think it needs to do ~50% travel before activating a direction as it is now.
  19. It sounds like I'll be modding mine when it arrives, then. My Flashback 8 paddles were extremely slow(sticky grease,) so I disassembled the pots, degreased the shafts and regreased with thin lithium grease. Travel on the knob can likely be addressed with a 300k, 500k or 1meg resistor in line with the pot.
  20. fluxit

    RetroN 77

    There is at least one that has a built in hub with a few ports. Of course you can also plug a normal USB hub into the OTG cable instead, if you have one available.
  21. The dumper only knows how to load certain types of carts, and its firmware has not been updated with the newer Stella release for the Retron 77. My R77's connector still works fine, but I treat it gingerly, and always try to start my cart insertion at an angle(rotated left or right) to the slot, as the angle of the contacts seems to be fairly low, and I've found that if I try to simply insert a cart straight that doesn't have a steep bevel on it's PCB edge it will collide with the edge connector with a clunk rather than parting the contacts properly.
  22. Try deleting /stella/settings.sqlite3* so that Stella will recreate them. The current beta release has a bug that will eliminate paddle mappings under certain circumstances, and "defaults" will not restore them for you. I found that starting from scratch does restore working paddle defaults, however. Mappings can also be set manually, but it's a fiddly process for paddles.
  23. Without modifications, the wico doesn't speak the trak-ball 'language.'
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