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Everything posted by fluxit

  1. What I see is that you are being pursued by the big flying saucer, which shows up pink on your radar. If it comes within range it will cause you to lose a life. Running away doesn't work, because while your ship is faster than the saucer when accellerated, there's no way to determine what path might be safe as you can't see obstacles at speed until you collide with them. Control is 4-way only. Small alien ships and asteroids(?) can be shot while onscreen, but they don't maintain their positions when off-screened, so lining up your shots is very difficult. The graphics and sound are somewhat compelling, but the game play is not enjoyable. Just about any change to this game could have made it better. It's kind of a shame, really. I don't have a bottom 10 games list, but this would probably be on it.
  2. I can't really answer your first question as I never had an ST. As for the second question I would definitely recommend a 2600-daptor. They are pretty bulletproof in my experience. I'd be surprised if they don't work with Hatari, but I can't say for sure. Here's the AtariAge thread for them.
  3. Airlock seems like one of those games that was never played by anyone outside of the group of programmer(s) and testers before release. Seriously, though- have someone who's never played the game or read the manual try to figure out what it is going on in the game. I'll bet that few can manage it, mainly due to the invisible floor timer. It seems like you are dying for no reason. The torpedoes look like little people. Functionally, there's no point in having the torpedoes not kill you directly, as there are few circumstances where the delay they cause will not kill you. I like the death screen. Too bad it's much better than the game itself. So much hate out there for Sssnake. Not that it isn't largely deserved, but I will say that BitD I remember getting at least 30 minutes of enjoyment out the game playing along with a friend who had it. As others have said, I don't have any real desire to play it again, but there are plenty enough games in the 2600 catalog that are worse than Sssnake, IMO.
  4. Is it normal to see the error "A later version is already installed" when trying to install 6.1-1 with 6.1_rc1 installed?
  5. If you haven't already, you'll probably want to upgrade your firmware to this version. Yes, you do need to keep the SD card inserted. No the roms are not included. You place them in a folder called games in the root directory of your SD card.
  6. I'd never thought about the type of flying those jet pilots would have to be doing to cross the screen like that. Now I feel bad about shooting them down.
  7. Seeing as how they apparently wirelessly connect to an AtGames system dongle that plugs into your TV, I'm guessing that they wont work.
  8. Hmmm. Is that in the options? I don't see it. I've gone over every single list and tab a few times at least.
  9. There's a small control inconsistency in the launcher UI. I don't know if it can(or should as I'm not sure what's intended) be fixed by simply remapping or not. A 9 pin joystick plugged into the front ports allows one to select a game line by line by using the up and down directions, or page by page using left and right. The same is true of a USB keyboard's cursor keys. With a wireless USB controller on the other hand, the left thumb-stick works as expected in the UI, but the dpad will only do line by line. Left and right on the dpad in the UI does nothing. FWIW, the right thumbstick doesn't do anything at all in the UI. I see from "jstest" on my computer that the Mayflash adapter I'm using maps left thumbstick to axis 0 and 1, dpad to axis 4 and 5, and right thumbstick to axis 2 and 3 respectively.
  10. My experience mirrors Keatah's. I played up through level 3 on Sentinel with my desktop computer. Sentinel is actually fairly playable on the R77 even, by firing "tracer rounds." Shooting Arcade on the other hand severely limits your ammo, so you can play it on the Retron, but games are short.
  11. I didn't do any remapping. And the screen has a flashing "Paused." Indicator. Ah, good point though. I see that the actual "Toggle Pause mode" is currently mapped to "none" and "Start Pause mode" is mapped to "Pause," which I'm guessing is the keyboard key.
  12. What's the intended way to exit "Pause mode?" By default it's(Rewind one state & enter Pause mode) mapped to J0/B6, which is left-lower trigger on my wireless controller. Pressing the trigger again, holding it down, double-clicking, tapping- none of these seems to have any effect once paused. The only way I've found to exit pause so far is to bring up the menu and then close the menu at which point the game is running again. No other buttons seem to effect the paused state, not even reset.
  13. It'd actually be nice if a version of HiDPI mode(or otherwise larger fonts) was available for the R77. I can read Stella's text if I'm right in front of the TV, but I usually play from the couch which is about 6 or seven feet away.
  14. The boards on Activision carts are just very slightly thinner than those in carts from other companies. If the contacts in your Atari's slot are getting spread to the point where they just barely make usable contact with the carts that do work for you, carts that are dirtier, rougher, or thinner may not work. Are you sure that you've gotten those cart 'fingers' completely clean though? My method is 90% or better isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab until the contacts on that side of the cart look shiny... then I switch to a new swab and clean again. If the swab is still completely white after using it to clean then I'm done with that side. If the carbon on the contacts is still able to turn the swab grey at all, I switch to a new swab and do it again. IOW, just because the contacts *look* clean and shiny doesn't mean that they are actually clean and it does make a difference. If all else fails, it's also usually possible to retension the contacts in the Atari's slot to give it a better grip, but it takes care not to cause damage because the slot contacts are easily over bent. A little goes a long way.
  15. Did anyone else buy a box(or more) of CX-80s back when they were a part of Oshea's(or was it Surplus Software) offerings? I really need to go through my storage and dig out that box. It still contains 2(?) of the three NIB trak-balls that I purchased. I don't even know for sure if they work. They've never been out of the box. The CX-80 from that bunch that I use always leaves me wondering why it doesn't have the model number on its case, causing me to forget if it's a CX-80 or CX-22. The paper label on the bottom says: KM513 5 And "MADE IN U.S.A." is molded into the case bottom below that sticker. I don't use it that way on regular basis as I prefer my Logitech Marble "Mouse" for its comfort and reliability, but I was suitably impressed with how usable the CX-80 is through a 2600-daptor as a computer trak-ball.
  16. I take it that the "galleon" is the green Dracula Koolaid Man at center bottom of the screen? The fish are so polite to not try to eat you as you're reeling one of them in, especially considering how hard the game tries to feed you to them before you even have a chance to control your diver.
  17. Have you verified with a multimeter that the contact for "down" is actually connected to pin 2(or any pin for that matter) on the 9 pin connector? There isn't really anything else to go wrong so far as the Tac-2 is concerned. If everything else on the joystick is working, you either have a short in that wire, a bad crimp or solder connection, or the problem is with the Atari instead of the joystick.
  18. 130xe? Probably. The 130xe schematic shows a 500k color adjustment pot.
  19. fluxit

    RetroN 77

    While testing the Stella 6.1rc1 release for the Retron 77 on my LCD TV(I usually use my CRT through an HDMI converter) I found something strange. First of all, the R77 booted up to Stella's launcher, and everything seemed fine until I tried to run a game. The TV said "No Signal" and showed a black screen. I tried another game and the same thing happened. Enduro showed a flash of game screen followed by blackness and again "No Signal." I didn't see how it could be the case, but seemingly 6.1rc1 was incompatible with my TV while the previous R77 release had no issues. That didn't make any sense to me, so I tried removing the HDMI powered switch from between the R77 and the TV. Now games would display and everything seemed fine. Games looked and played as they should so far as I could tell, until... Missile Command. Every other interceptor missile that I would fire(almost) would be invisible, both during travel time and its explosion. It didn't seem to matter if that second missile was fired immediately after the first, or if there was a pause between- it would be invisible. It didn't matter if the missiles(and explosions) were gone from the screen, that next missile would be invisible if the previous one had been visible, and vice versa. I thought perhaps I had just not noticed that this particular ROM had issues, so I tried other NTSC Missile Command versions. All but one had the same issue of alternating invisible interceptors. I tried PAL versions, and the problem was not present on any of the PAL ROMs. Since I had yet to update Stella on my desktop, I did that and tried 6.1rc1 on my desktop machine with the offending ROMs- the issue was not present on my desktop machine with Stella. I'd not noticed the issue with my other TV and the Retron 77 either. That was when I remembered that I was using a different HDMI cable on one TV verses the other. On the LCD I had simply used the cable that came with the android TV box that's usually plugged into that port on my TV to connect the R77 as well. It turned out that that was the problem. When I retrieved the cable from the CRT and used it with the LCD, Missile Command was no longer missing any missiles. Really strange. I didn't notice anything else out of the ordinary with the 'bad' HDMI cable and Stella. I guess it just goes to show you- just because it seems that an HDMI cable is compatible and working with a particular device, doesn't mean that it actually *is* working correctly.
  20. It's been a while, but I thought that I remembered something related to this. See posts 178 - 182 for more info. Night Driver is even one of the carts that's mentioned wrt failing the R77's cart detection technique.
  21. Wouldn't we expect Night Driver and Basic Math to work? They're 2k games.
  22. It's listed on amazon.co.uk by a seller called "Worldwide Distribution GmbH" in Germany. Cons: The firmware that it ships with is mediocre, but not bad depending upon what you value. Cart compatibility is fair, but of course if it doesn't run your favorite carts, you might not agree. ROM compatibility is good. The console's buttons are a bit on the cheap side. Paddle support via the 9 pin front "atari" ports is very jittery with the Hyperkin firmware. Pros: The unit is small, but solidly built. The Joystick that currently ships with it is fairly good and somewhat robust. It looks cool, IMO:) After updating your firmware to the latest community build, you gain fully up to date Stella compatibility for ROMs and video options and somewhat improved paddle support. With the addition of a USB OTG cable(after updating the R77's firmware) you gain USB device support including some wireless gamepads and access to perfect paddle support via a 2600-daptor.
  23. R77 report: So far I've played Parsec(cart,) Scramble Arcade, Missile Command, Defender, Space Rocks, River Raid, Battlezone, and Star Castle on my CRT TV with effects and scan lines turned off. Scan lines enabled makes it seem as though this TV has some sort of strange problem . The overscan option works great- I needed about a '7' for this TV. I'll try effects and scan lines on the LCD later. My bluetooth controllers need charging. So far I've only been playing with a Trooper. No issues so far, and the image is beautiful.
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