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Everything posted by fluxit

  1. It's a 500k trim pot. Almost anything in this range can be made to work. You'll probably want to choose something of the vertical adjustment type similar to the original.
  2. Nice challenge. I'm not sure that I'd have crashing into a drone kill the player, as it leads to instant deaths when you are unlucky enough to be entering a screen at exactly the same time that an enemy drone is leaving it which seems a bit unfair. The ship 'engine' and motion sounds do not cease when all player ships have been destroyed.
  3. fluxit

    RetroN 77

    I don't actually think that the two problems are directly related, although that remains to be seen. I'm thinking that the ADCs are not actually physically separate circuits(in as far as that's possible) inside the MCU, and that is what is causing the interaction that we're seeing. Fixing it on Hyperkin's part might have been as simple as using different sets of inputs for the paddle lines, or it could be simply that this was not a good choice of a chip for this particular use. One of the tests that I'll run will be to provide separate voltage reference sources for paddles in a pair, to see how that affects the noise level. Sadly, I can't use different inputs on the MCU without butchering the board or modifying the firmware, which I'm not willing to do at this time. At most I'll power the MCU separately from the main board if my scope shows that to be potential issue, though I hope it doesn't, because I don't really want to get into that either.
  4. fluxit

    RetroN 77

    From what I can see, it appears as though the paddle jitter problem may be caused by noise that's being picked up by the ADC inputs of the MCU on the controller daughterboard. Said inputs appear to be directly connected to the pins of the front joystick ports. I'm going to approach this from the hardware side. Assuming that this 'noise' is not being generated internally by the MCU, and is not a bug in the MCU's firmware(sample size/bittedness conversion error, buffer under/overrun, etc.,) it may be due to an unstable reference voltage source. The notes that come with the firmware source code claim that the paddle reference voltage is 5 volts, but when I probed the front ports, I never saw anything over 3.4(which I'm guessing is coming directly from the 3.3v vrm, I haven't traced it out yet,) so that seems to be a discrepancy to begin with, unless the note was referring to an original 2600 port, rather than the R77. To date I haven't had a scope connected to the R77 while paddles were connected, so I'm not certain at this point. I'm currently all out of male db9 connectors, so I have some on order which should arrive in a couple of weeks at which point I will begin testing this hypothesis.
  5. Does the Bodnar box display a number on the display that's been tested? I like how the Cnet review that mentions using the tester says that it's "dead simple," but doesn't bother to tell what the box does.
  6. A new controller board firmware would be nice, but deploying it may not be a straightforward process. I don't think that anyone has looked into this thoroughly, but assuming the MCU allows itself to be reflashed, it may not be as simple as running a flasher program on the R77 via the sdcard. You may have to attach a programmer to the board itself. Hyperkin would most likely want people to send in their R77 for service if such a fix became available rather than arranging for a board swap, but I wouldn't hold my breath on either of those possibilites. On the other hand, I seem to recall someone reporting that they did send their Retron to Hyperkin, and the paddle jitter issue was fixed as a result. It's too bad that Andrew the Hyperkin rep stopped posting on AtariAge before the initial release of the Retron 77.
  7. I don't know. I tried to check it for you, but I can't access the 'Controller Options' tab in beta 1. Shift-arrow keys no longer works in beta 1 so long as I can tell, and Thomas' controller mappings weren't available yet. It doesn't seem to be a keyboard issue as shift-tab still works to cycle backwards between options or buttons. I never came across this issue during testing, as I was just using the 'Input' section to temporarily change bindings. How do you access another dialog tab in beta 1?
  8. That's exactly the conclusion that I came to after checking the dev/input/* node of a device that never worked when hotplugged(and apparently I left out 'cold-boot' testing, as it isn't wireless) on the R77. It did generate a working 'js2' node(active output,) but after unplugging it, none of the compatible devices would generate working nodes. During my testing this confused me, as devices that could be successfully unplugged and replugged multiple times and even swapped for each other would suddenly stop working. This was apparently due to the order in which they were tested during a single boot.
  9. Both the Mayflash and JYS dongles claim to support wireless PS3 controllers. I don't have a PS3, so I can't test one.
  10. I just tried the Nyko 87024-E14 that's plugged into my Wii and it worked with R77. It's apparently based on an ASIX AX88772 chipset according to the Retron, FWIW. --edit- It took me about half an hour to discover that the reason the R77 wasn't accepting my SSH password was because I was trying to login as myself instead of root. /facepalm
  11. The reviews seem to indicate that the above linked NIC is probably not actually RTL8152 based. There are many listings on ebay for rtl8152 chipset usb NICs though. It shouldn't be hard to find one that works.
  12. Per Dirty Harry's Wiki for the R77 firmware updates, this should work, assuming the listing is accurate.
  13. Here are a few more wireless bluetooth controller connection options for the Retron 77: Mayflash NS(Nintendo Switch) - Works in NS mode(may work in other modes as well) on the R77. Can be hot-plugged. Supports 'first' and third party bluetooth game controllers. Does not support Wiimotes. Only supports one controller at a time(though others may be paired.) JYS Nintendo Switch - JYS-NS130. May also be sold under other brand names as well. Works in NS mode(may work in other modes as well.) Can not be hot-plugged with current firmware. Supports first and third party bluetooth game controllers. Does not support Wiimotes. Only one game controller at a time, others may be paired. Culsam NES to usb + 8bitdo NES bluetooth. Should support first party bt controllers. Does not support some third party controllers. Does support Wiimotes. The 8bitdo NES on its own does not seem to be compatible with the R77 through its built-in micro usb port(possibly due to its use of x-input mode.) The Culsam adapter on its own does support wired NES compatible controllers on the Retron 77.
  14. I'd say it's a matter of taste. Mappy for example, due to it's complexity has quite a bit of flicker even on my CRT via the R77, enough that it bothers me. I'm going to turn on some phosphor for that game specifically. In general, when playing on the CRT TV instead of the LCD, what flicker is present with phosphor effects turned off doesn't bother me for almost all other games. On the LCD on the other hand, I do use quite a bit of 'phosphor' for Draconian, Scramble, and Space Rocks. I think I'm using 60, IIRC.
  15. You can also open the windows\fonts directory, and then drag and drop font files(unzipped) into it. Copy and paste may also work, depending on the method used.
  16. The length shouldn't make a difference, so long as your soldering is good and so long as you've made the right connections. I can't really tell from your photos, unfortunately. If I were you, I would use a multimeter to confirm that you have continuity from each input pin to each output pin as the schematic shows. Also check that you *don't* have continuity between pins that should *not* be connected. If you don't have a multimeter, you should be able to pick one up for a very low price.
  17. Speaking of which, did a company ever release a db9 to db9 joystick converter adapter that swaps the axes on 2600 compatible joysticks to move an upper-left button to the upper-right without rewiring the stick? I realize that this would only work for some designs, but so long as the base is square, and the wire is in a reasonable spot when on the side of the stick it should work fine.
  18. First impressions after having just received my Slik Stik and played a game of Scramble: I like the look of the 'stik.' It's smaller than I thought it would be. The rounded corners are nice and it feels good in my hands. The action is good. My only complaint is that it's a bit stiffer than my preference in a joystick. I don't mind resistance, but this is maybe 10% stiffer than I'd like, though it's not something I wouldn't be able to get used to I'm sure. -Yet another missed opportunity for an ambidextrous dual button design, though of course it wouldn't be difficult to rewire for left-handed use.
  19. What did you make your y out of? Can you show us a picture or two of the connections that you made?
  20. Yes, I did turn off Stella's video enhancements for the CRT. I'll try your Starblitz. Scramble is beautiful on the CRT. It's much better looking than the arcade game ever was, IMO. For one thing, I guess it uses more colors.
  21. On beta 2, I was able to successfully hot swap between this: ...and this: On the #1 Wii U Pro controller, the R77 currently defaults to Y - fire button 0, B - Genesis(I guess) fire button, X - menu, A - Reset, L1 - return to launcher. There seems to be an issue with the game code controller auto detection that ironically most greatly affects Thrust +, of the games I've tested so far. With Thrust, it detects genesis(left,) and joystick(right.) But the game seems to think that a 'thrust' control is being continuously held down regardless of what I have plugged into the system. The game starts immediately without any button having been pressed. This happens both with a cold boot to the cartridge, or from the launcher to the v1.27 rom. Scramble also detects genesis, but the controls actually work with my Wii U Pro controller, with Y as fire, and B as bomb. This does bring up a potential issue though, if Stella on the R77 is aiming primarily at the base R77 hardware by default, someone who was attempting to use Scramble with a "Trooper" joystick would only have fire by default, with no bombs available without turning off "Automatic." Should per game control choices be saved? They don't seem to be here. I've changed Thrust's left controller from Automatic to Joystick, exited the game and powered down the system at least three times, with it always resetting itself to Automatic upon powering back up. The change does fix the mentioned issue until I reboot. Remapping of buttons is being saved properly.
  22. I'm guessing it's a joke noisemaker with an internal button cell supply, and that the "input jack" is really an output jack, or it has an internal speaker. One of the switches is probably on/off.
  23. The button spamming makes it look like your wrestler is having some sort of crazy seizure. It's no wonder that your opponent can't counter that. This game does *look* good.
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