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Posts posted by chue
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Just taking an educated guess, but it sounds like there could be multiple things wrong.
The disc not coming out is a sign that the drive was not put back together correctly. There could be multiple problems related to this.
1. There is a (disc?) sensor in there has a very delicate 2 wire cable, similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Drive-Sensor-Cable-Replacement-Repair/dp/B00B5Q9OMS
I would take apart the drive and make sure the above wire is ok. You may even try re-seating it at both ends. It is very delicate, so be careful.
2. Mechanically, there are little plastic gears and other parts in there that are used when inserting/ ejecting. You will need to be sure that all of these have been put back together correctly. Do a search on YouTube for drive dissassembly/ reassembly tutorials. You may see something in those videos that will help you.
While you have the drive apart you may as well:
1. re-seat the ribbon cables that you touched when you put in the new laser board.
2. manually eject your disc
If after you re-assemble the drive and find out that discs now insert/ eject, but are not recognized by the system then you have other potential issues:
1. The new laser assembly is bad
2. Your blu-ray drive main board is going bad. If this is the case you will have to buy a new drive and "marry" that to your system. Marrying involves jailbreaking the PS3 - you'd likely have to get someone to do it for you.
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My MS Edge bug report and workaround here:
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I figured out a workaround: pasting text (CTRL+V) into the edit box allows me to type spaces afterwards.
So anytime I create a new post I just type CTRL+V (paste), and then CTRL+Z (undo paste). Then I type my post as usual.
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I did notice one thing... even though I started off with a 64GB SD card (which may have been overkill), the PC now reads the card as much smaller?

I wonder what the Raspberry Pie will think of that?
The SD card has likely been split into multiple partitions: boot, swap, and root. Windows is only showing the first partition (boot), so you will not see the entire disk size.
The Pie should be fine with it, although you still *might* have to expand the root partition, per jonecool's instructions above.
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Slightly off topic, but someone is giving away a TI Hi-Tek keyboard here:
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If anyone is interested, someone is giving away a black TI keyboard here:
You pay shipping. It appears to need a little bit of love.
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Any tips on where to look?
You can check Ebay
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Can my miniPro program a 27c400-105 eprom? I hope so, I just ordered a lt of 5 because I want a DiagRom for my amiga.
I'm actually trying to do the same thing, which is to use a minpro to program a DiagRom.
You will need an adapter. I ordered this one:
The listing above is just for the bare board, so if you go that route, you'll need to buy the parts and do some soldering. The parts for mine are still en-route from China.
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I don't have experience with CodeBlocks, but may give it a try now that you mention it.
I have TI-GCC installed on a headless Linux server, and I've been looking for a way to do remote development from Windows. It looks like CodeBlocks supports this using a plugin called Uniwin: https://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/14178/3427
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Thanks for the info. I've been meaning to pick up a mini-pro, but may wait to see what the pricing is on the new 866 II.
In case anyone is interested, I grabbed the list of supported chips from the website and have attached it here.
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You'll probably want to take a look at removing/ replacing the batteries - they tend to eat motherboards. Example here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/275275-damn-you-varta-ebay-auction-for-an-a3000/
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Can anyone recommend a good 2.5" Sata 1 TB drive or at least brand? Thanks...so many options
Does anyone see any reason this HDD wouldn't work:
Any of the major manufacturers should be fine: Seagate, Western Digital, Toshiba, HGST, Samsung, etc. There will always be bad drives, no matter the manufacturer. It's probably more important that you have a warranty, so that you can exchange the drive if you have to.
The WD one that you link to has a one year seller's warranty, so that's definitely good. Although you may want to ask the seller what the warranty covers.
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The damage looks brutal, and on a 4 layer board.
Do A3000's really price so high these days? I'd expect to pay $500 for a working one.
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Sorry about that. I see what I did wrong... the disassembly on this one looks a little better than the last one.
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I have a binary that loads at 0xA000 - 0xFFFF. The second 4K of the range is unneeded and is zero padded. It was generated with GCC and prints "Hello World" five times.
The zip file contains the binary as well as an additional text file showing the memory map of the binary. You don't need to do anything with the memory map - it is just there in case you want to see how the binary is laid out.
Caveat: It worked with the TI (cartridge) headers in there, but the version without headers is untested as I am unsure of how to do so.
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I have to get an IDE drive for my 60 GB 1st gen PS3 fat. Anyone think I can get a 1TB drive in there or am I better off going with a 500GB 3.5 IDE drive.
You will want a SATA drive, not IDE. Also 2.5", not 3.5". I'm unsure on the 1TB, but I don't see why not.
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So, the never-ending adventure that is my life continues with yet another move. This time we bought a house in a small town northwest of Milwaukee.
Welcome to Wisconsin!
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Those temperatures are in °C or °F?
It would be a dream come true if those temps are in C!
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April 2018 CTIUG Meeting
in TI-99/4A Computers
Posted · Edited by chue
Since it's near Chicago, I believe it is UTC - 5. You haven't missed it yet. It starts about 25 minutes from now.