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mutterminder

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tacoma, Washington
  • Interests
    Classic computer and console collecting, repair, and restoration. Electronics. Science. Science Fiction.
  • Currently Playing
    Ghost of Tsushima. Various games on classic computers an consoles.

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  1. I have recently acquired and Atari Touch Me which looks pretty good but unfortunately it is dead. It wasn't too hard to open, it is held together with molded plastic tabs. I opened it with a plastic spudger without too much difficulty. I have already checked for obvious burned or leaky components, but none were apparent. I also checked the power, it is getting through the power jack to the switch PCB. Does anybody know were I can find a schematic for this thing? It's not very complicated as there is only one IC a bunch of resistors, four LEDs, the LED display and a couple of transistors. If the one IC has failed, I guess it's done for - the part is marked C10745, I assume that this is some proprietary Atari part, as I was unable to locate a datasheet for it.
  2. I don't have time to go through my list right now, but some highlights of my loose carts are: Qberts Qubes, and Rescue Terra I. I also have a couple of really early homebrews: Edtris, and SoundX.
  3. I have collected many things "Atari". What kind of Atari collection were you thinking of? Since this is the 2600 forum, I assume you are talking about collections specifically related to the Atari 2600. In that case I have a couple of hundred loose carts, and 40 or 50 boxed games.
  4. After carefully examining the pictures, it seems to me that the details are too accurate to be a reproduction. It's not like these are selling for hundreds of dollars. They're going for $30 or less, there would be no financial incentive to make such an accurate counterfeit. I think it's the real deal.
  5. Wow, that does seem to be in really good shape. If that is also really serial number one, you really lucked out. Does it function? It does seem unlikely that this is some sort of reproduction, however many of the early hand held games, have had modern re-releases so it is possible, though I've not heard of this particular one getting that treatment.
  6. Given the patches and updates that the previous minis have received, I think that many of the concerns that people have thus far express in this topic, will be addressed either before release, or soon after release. So even though I certainly don't need another mini, and I have almost every model of Atari 8-bit already, I preordered one from Amazon.
  7. Yes, you are right. You still need AC to produce the -5vdc. So you couldn't do this with a stock 800, as you need the -5vdc for the 4116 RAMs. However if you've upgraded to a modern memory solution this would work.
  8. Since the 800 has a bridge rectifier on the input, you don't actually need an AC voltage to run it. I haven't tried it, but as long as it had enough current capacity, you should be able to safely use any supply between 13-15VDC and polarity would not matter.
  9. I finally got a 3D printer this year, and recently I decide that I wanted to fix all of my broken Atari Joysticks. I wish I was good with CAD software, but as of now, this is something that will still have to teach myself. Until that time, I am dependent on designs of others. There are quite a files available for the plastic shaft that usually breaks in the CX-40, and there are also files for the flexible outer sleeve that degrades after 46 to 30 years. I have several of these outer sleeves that have gotten hard with age, so I picked up some TPU this week an started printing some new outer sleeves. However I discovered that one of my joysticks that had rubber so hard you couldn't even move the stick was a CX-10. It seems that the CX-10 has a longer shaft made of black plastic, with a different shape than the CX-40. I wasn't able to find a 3D model of the outer sleeve designed for the CX-10, (in fact there doesn't seem to be any CX-10 parts out there) I tried loading one of the existing models for the CX-40 into FreeCad in hopes that I could at least modify it to fit, but it is clear that I am have to go through a few weeks of tutorial before I get to this point. Does anybody know if someone has any CX-10 parts available? I guess there is not much demand as in looking into this I have found that the CX-10 is not very common.
  10. I think this thread has definitely drifted off topic. If I could remember what that topic was, I would post about it now.
  11. I think it's great that you want to release an updated 800XL style motherboard. I like most of what you have done with it, though I would like to see your schematic. If I had the time to do something like this, one thing I've always wanted to see is a "user proof" input power circuit. (Not that you can protect against every possible user.) A bridge rectifier input with EMI and overvoltage protection. So that if you have a user that doesn't have or know the type of required input voltage, you could take either AC or DC with any polarity in most of the commonly available values.
  12. Thanks Bob, that's what I did. I was able to send payment.
  13. They didn't offer a Paypal option on the web store. I would gladly use Paypal.
  14. I put in an order from the ABBUC store, but I'm not sure about how the payment method works. Does anybody here know how I can pay from a USA bank?
  15. I happen to have the Lotus 123 carts that you previously mentioned. One of my unfinished projects is putting together a PC Jr, so I was saving them for that reason. But honestly, I probably would get much use out of Lotus 123 after the initial test and playaround. Send me a PM, maybe we can work out something.
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