Kismet

No way to tell, Seller wants me to send it back, so I guess I will. It will annoy me to no end if I send it back and it magically works for them. Here's my theory, they probably didn't test it with a GB cart in it, and assumed it worked, because otherwise that graphite that was in the GB cart slot would have prevented the cart from making contact. When I tried to use it, I put the GB cart in it first, thus that could have caused a short. It still doesn't really explain why it stops at the boot border, but tilting it slightly gets it past. It's almost as if the CIC was the problem, and tilting it briefly makes it work.

It took two months to arrive. So it's entirely possible it worked when it was sent (which is what the seller said) but maybe something happened to it during shipping.

I wanted to make sure that I didn't damage the Super NT, so I tried the SD2SNES, StarFox and Sailor Moon (SFC) carts in the Super NT and they all still work, so that death-grip on the SGB2 just didn't seem right and hearing the springs make noises made me wonder if the PCB was thicker than a normal cart, these were produced two years AFTER the N64 went into production (1998 copyright). At any rate, I might just try buying a new one off amazon for the rip-off price of 120$. Seems like trying to buy one off eBay is bound to result in another dud.

Did you miss the part where I said I put it in the SNES? I had to take the shell off of it otherwise I'd have to modify the SNES. The first two times I put it in the real SNES it just sat there at a black screen, but the second time the SNES had a signal, but the screen was still black. That's the item: https://www.ebay.com/itm/232510647828?ul_noapp=true It gets to the same point on the SNES: If I tip the SGB2 forward a little sometimes it advances to the ® and I've seen the Super Gameboy 2 splash once, the rest of the time it just becomes garbage or a solid pink, green or yellow screen. I think it's just worn out and not making good contact, It's been cleaned a dozen times already and it hasn't improved once since I got the boot border.

So my Super Gameboy 2 finally arrived (2 months), pop it in the Super NT. Nothing. So I pull it out and it requires WAY too much strength to pull it out, which makes me thing there is an engineering issue. I put it back in, turn it on, nothing. Switch GB games, nothing. When it's inserted or removed there is a distinct spring squeek noise that isn't heard when putting regular SNES carts into it. So after reseating it 4th time I switched to launch timing, still nothing. The SGB2 has a LED visible through it that is lit when the SuperNT powers up, however it dims a little if the SGB is tilted slightly forward. So I clean the contacts on the SGB2 and the GB cart... Still nothing. I'm at a loss here. I'm also not sure why it's so hard to remove from the Super Nt, it's almost as if it's catching something on the left side of the Super NT, or the SGB2's PCB is just a hair too wide thus not having any wiggle room. Edit 1: So I took the shell off and stuck it in the Super NES. Nothing. Damn, must be broken, and then I decide to clean the GB slot when I notice something. The GB cart isn't going all the way down. There is a 3mm lenght of graphite (pencil lead) stuck in the GB cart slot. So I excise it with a screw driver and now the GB cart's are flush with the cart. Still, no signal from SNES. So I clean both the GB cart and the SGB2 cart edges a second time. SNES produces a signal but no picture. Good enough it's not dead. So I put the naked PCB back in the Super NT, Still no picture. Hmmmmm. Crap this was a mistake, I can't pull the PCB out because it's too tight. So I used the security bit screw driver as a lever and gently pull the pcb up. I put the SGB2 PCB back in the SGB's shell, and notice one more thing, there is a small piece of the shell that had been broken (by me?) that might just be enough to prevent it from sitting flush in the cart slot, along the PCB edge, so I snap it off and put the shell together, and then stuck the thing back in the Super NT. Oh look, this time I get the Gameboy screen. Still not GB game running. So that's where I am right now. I think the pencil lead probably marked up the GB carts so I need to clean them a few times, but it might actually work now. However I still want to point out that the SGB2 is very tight, and it feels like I'm going to rip the cart edge connector from the system when I try to remove the SGB2. Edit 2: No matter what game I stick in it, it is stuck at the Gameboy screen without booting the inserted game.

1) DLC 2) Microtransactions 3) Lootboxes/Gachapon 4) Subscription/Rental costs (Xbox Live/PSN) Pretty much everything for the 8-bit systems, and most software for the 16-bit systems (other than the Satellaview) have none of this. Satellaview is an early "subscription/DLC" model that was in Japan before internet access was a thing. Like I hate to say it, but in a decade, many of the stuff released for the Wii, PS3, Xbox, Xbox 360 will simply be gone. Digital downloaded it? Well kiss it good bye when the console dies. Physically own a disc or cart? Well when the console dies you have to start all your games over again. At least when we had that period of time with the separate memory cards and media, one could just copy or move the save files from one console to another. Right now, anything you bought for the Xbox360, is gone the minute the hard drive dies. And that happens a lot. The entire reason Xbox 360 emulators ironically have reached the point they have is due to the notoriously unreliable Xbox 360 and Xbox 360 S models, and salvaging the games off actual systems is difficult since the drives just straight up die for no reason. It's a mess. I almost wish that that there were was more excitement for "HD" models of classic consoles and not these software-emulator "good enough" things. Imagine for a minute a NES/SNES/SMS/MD type of console that actually could be programmed for with a toolset on your computer, and then plugged into the HD console, and the console takes care of the SD->HD scaling, and playback of HD music and sound effects. We do see a lot of "pixelart" games every year come out on steam, but very few of them actually have the control tightness of an actual 8-bit system. Undertale was released in 2015, but it's input is not tight enough on a modern system to actually pull it off as intended. Many other games, that were console ports, like Cave Story+ are actually rather buggy at HD, let alone 4K resolution, and thus the input feels mushy.

They would have to produce it at a price at, or below the Super NT, which would likely mean using the exact same Super NT PCB and only changing the cartridge slot/controller ports. That's the most logical thing to do, but probably not what people want for a NES clone. With a SNES clone the only thing that I felt was missing from the Super NT was having 4 controller ports like the NT Mini, but there aren't that many games that would use it, thus it's not a big loss, it just would have helped if it had the "core store" for allowing 4 players on NES games. At any rate we shouldn't second-guess what people want. There is a point of diminishing returns, and I feel Analogue knows this, and why they decided that implementing the NA expansion port would have been a waste of time, as there's no NA accessories that use it, and all the Japanese accessories that did (the Sattellaview) aren't usable anymore. It was easier to implement the FC expansion port because it's barely derivative of an existing connector, and it acts as a controller port 2 on FC's where as the NES expansion port was not used at all. Like at some point you just have to say "adding this part adds $2.00 to the cost, but only enables one game that only sold 10,000 copies", that adds up if you're building 10,000 machines. So realistically the amount of people who might use it probably 10. It would be different if new games were being built specificly for the NT Mini or Super NT, but that's not really the case. I remember thinking about stuff like this when I was 10, and reading the BASIC book for my Tandy 1000, and going "well what if I make the light pen work?" and then realizing that the light-pen was something that was ONLY on the Tandy 1000, not other PC's, and I didn't have one anyway. That's why most accessories for game consoles fail. If it doesn't come with the system, developers will just shun the extra development cost for it. I'd like to have seen a lot more light-gun games, but realistically they are just the same game over and over again with different art, there's not a lot you can do with that mechanic, just like with the Wii, there was not a lot you can do with the motion controls itself (too far ahead of the VR race) yet it inspired Sony and Microsoft to come up with their own motion controls, and the Kinect was kinda the right idea , but again, too far ahead of the VR race. Nobody really wants a game to use motion controls unless they are exercising, simulating an instrument or dance moves, everything else was awful. When VR eventually doesn't suck, and doesn't make people vomit after 5 minutes, we may see a more practical "VR console" rather than these half-assed mobile-phone-posing-as-a-HMD "accessories" that cost more than the console. Everyone needs to repeat Sega's mistake with the 32X before they realize that people don't want accessories, they want complete out-of-the-box. So with the NT Mini/Super NT, it is complete, out of the box, all you need is the software and a TV/Monitor, and if you didn't buy any controllers, some controllers. Most of us who have games, have controllers and didn't need to buy any.

Left at defaults, adjust to integer scale for video capture, otherwise stock. I don't really care if there is a large window box around the picture, but if I'm not capturing it, I'm just going to play it at whatever size the game reasonably looks correct at. Some games you can crop a bit, others you can not. Like I have at least one game where you can tell the developers intended to for the overscan to not be seen (because the character portraits end 1 tile from the bottom, and cropping it at that point actually produces an even border all around if you crop the same 1 tile space from the top.

They aren't adding rom loading. The rom's for Super Turrican already exist, copy and paste that code with the file manager that exists as part of the LED pattern browser. That all already exists in the firmware. For all we know the ability to play roms from the SD card always existed and is just hidden from being shown in the menu. Like I'm not trying to have a re-run of the conversation we had dozens of pages ago about who the Firmware Fairy is, but the MC firmware is fundamentally a different thing from the FPGA firmware, and the PIC32 can readily be decompiled if you decrypt it. You can not decompile a FPGA firmware to my knowledge, because it's not "program code", it's literately a map of wires and switches and each FPGA firmware blob only works with the hardware it's designed to be used in, with the FPGA chip it's designed to be used on. Like if you have the code to compile the FPGA, yes you probably could make the changes necessary to make the NT Mini cores run on the Super NT, but clearly that is not going to happen because that would require the source code to those cores. To the best of my knowledge the NT Mini and Super NT work this way: Boot, load MC firmware MC firmware load FPGA firmware FPGA put in halt mode until told to load cart or rom FPGA output goes through line doubler Output of MC is overlaid over FPGA linedoubled output if ROM, copy to FPGA ram, then boot FPGA In the JB NT Mini, when you select another core, it has to back to step 2. I would not risk any kind of tampering with the FPGA blob unless you've already RE'd the hardware and mapped where all the pins go. If you already have another FPGA blob you wrote and know how the pins are connected, you could conceivably (eg jwdonal could do this) load another FPGA blob onto the device. But it has to be said that one should not expect any "new" features in the JB firmware that are not in the firmware. So that means no additional cores. Presumably there is nothing actually stopping that from happening short of kevtris having the time for it and any pressure from Analogue not to. If some of us bought the Super NT with this being an eventuality, just sit tight and enjoy what you have right now. There is no promise of it, but it's too tempting not to. My prediction for the NT Mini however is that they will likely just issue another version of the Super NT PCB with the NES controller ports and NES cartridge slots to avoid all the other additional costs. However it will likely disappoint people who wanted a 4-port version. In fact I was kinda surprised there wasn't 4 controller ports on the Super NT, but I didn't let that put me off it either. The production costs would go down further if they can buy parts in quantity that they can use with both systems, and any future system.

The JB almost certainly has no control over the FPGA core. They can only tweak the MC (microcontroller) firmware, because those functions exist in the firmware. If the firmware secretly had a NES FPGA core from the mini in it, that would be the only way to have that core, and we would have also seen it already. The MC firmware can not change how the FPGA is wired. If people still don't understand how the NT Mini and SuperNT work: - There is separate RAM for the FPGA and the MC - The FPGA runs the "NES" or "SNES" part, the MC runs the menu's, file i/o, sd-card, graphics settings, etc. You can't add anything to the FPGA that isn't already in it. The entire reason the NT Mini could load other cores was because the MC allowed the FPGA core to be swapped with another and load the game rom directly into the RAM. Thus it's like hitting the reset button on the game console, and why there is boot time that the SNES does not have. To add expansion chips to the firmware, requires writing another core that has that chip in it, and that core would only be able to read rom files, because you can't have two GSU-1's (real and fpga) running at the same time.

I wonder how hard it would be for the firmware to checksum the game/rom and save a configuration file to the sd-card on a per-game basis.

So I have a question, I bought a Chrono Trigger cart off eBay and failed to read the listing (or the listing was changed after I bought it, whichever) and it turns out to be a repro designed as a counterfeit (eg copies the packaging.) Anyway, I know kevtris said earlier that the SuperNT shouldn't harm flash carts, but I want to get a clarification as when I took the cover off of this one, I don't see any voltage shifters. The board has an Altera CLPD EPM7032AETC44-7 on it, which is 3.0v. The 512M29EWH is Micron NOR FLASH ( 512Mbit 65nm MLC), 3.6V, the M5M5256DVP is a 32KB SRAM, 5V.

That assumes you can both tell the difference and that the TV/Monitor respects the setting.

Depending on your hand size, the Xbox360 or Xbox One is probably the best compromise, however I find that the Xbox 360's "hand grip" position and weight makes it difficult to use for a long period of time. The PS1/PS2/PS3/PS4 controller is roughly the same size with every version. I believe the PS4 version actually has the 360's grip style, while as the Xbox One has kinda gone past the point of usefulness. Basically the PS controllers favor "twinstick" gameplay, but the analog joysticks are in a position that make your thumbs hurt after a while. The D-pad/buttons are the same as the SNES (it literately evolved from the SNES pad) The Xbox 360 controller favors games that use analog movement, it's d-pad is basically useless, and is only useful for menu navigation. The Xbox One's D-pad might be even worse. What I find is that the shoulder button positions on the 360 controller dig into my fingers, which is a problem shared with the SNES controllers (where the bottom of the controller digs into the fingers. For the most part, the wired PS2 controller and the wired Xbox 360 controller are about equal. Heavier controllers make your arms tired faster.

Yeah, the 240p suite is the best way to actually confirm it. Analogue/kevtris should see if he could add it as pack-in rom.

Bluetooth is FHSS, 802.11b uses DSSS, 802.11g uses OFDM, 802.11n uses MIMO-OFDM. On paper, each other sees noise. So you increase the noise floor on the 2.4G spectrum by using bluetooth devices and WiFi devices in the same space. Like in general, the solution is really to not use WiFi, or switch everything to use the 5Ghz (802.11a/ac) band rather than the 2.4Ghz (b/g/n) band, unless you have concrete walls. Of note, the Xbox One S controllers (2016+), Nintendo Wii, and PS3 controllers use Bluetooth, where as the WiiU's tablet uses WiFi, Xbox 360, older Xbox One controllers, and pretty much all "wireless keyboard and mouse" systems for the PC are proprietary setups that generate a lot of noise as well. Bluetooth stuff tends to play nice with each other, but they add latency that otherwise would not be present with a direct cable signal. So AFAIK when you plug in most "wireless" controllers, they only use the cable for charging, and still communicate with the device via wireless since that's the only way to ensure uninterrupted play.

The gamegenie support exists, it can be made to patch lightgun games to mouse games in all likeliness, but that is also likely far more effort than making use of the knowledge that a game is a light gun game and what the game is expecting from the controller and substituting a Wiimote or other HID (eg a wireless mouse) or analog controls. However to use anything BUT a wiimote, would require writing to the screen a targeting sight on the screen like in software emulators, which would not be "accurate" either, but it's a fair compromise as opposed to not having any way to play them at all. But I digress, the superscope uses an IR transmitter as well (as the communications channel.) There is no way of making the actual lightguns work primarily because that can't be done. That's why I've said in the last three messages or so that a NT/SuperNT specific "light gun" would be the best way of solving that, but it would require the NT/SuperNT to at the minimum be able to take coordinates from the BT dongle instead of passing "I hit it", hence needing a menu item to switch the second port into this specific light gun simulator mode where it intercepts the port 2 controller commands, keeping track of it's position, compares the PPU "hit box" with the coordinates, and then then passes "I hit it" from that when the trigger is pulled. That is much simpler, but also makes a lot of assumptions on how all light gun games work, and might still require "game-specific" game genie/dynamic patches to increase the length of time of the hitbox is "visible" to do the calculation before the scaler.

You are WAY over-complicating this. There are SmartTV's that have crappier versions of this, and they're not any more complicated. Aftermarket Wiimotes are like $10. You use the "wiimote" style light gun by having the FPGA recognize a "light gun" mode accessory in port 2, that could be an 8bit do controller, that could be a regular wiimote, whatever. But what you have the FPGA do is recognize the trigger "pull" action via that port, and thus "grabbing" the frame from the FPGA console, doing the math that would do a hit/miss and then passing the actual "I hit it" bits to the game instead. Like in theory, this is no less accurate than an actual light gun, because all the light gun does is go "I saw a white flash" and could be faked out with a light bulb. It would of course require some kind of calibration in the menu, but it wouldn't be trying to calibrate the 'wiimote' style input with 1080p precision, no , most of these light gun games only had a hitbox precision of 8x8.

What is needed for this would require pulling a page from the Wii, including a IR transmitter (which can be produced cheaply as the wii only needs it for orientation) that is taped to the screen top/bottom. The "light gun" then operates using a CCD camera and accelerometers. Since the Wiimotes still exist, and after-market models also exist, and the same parts are used smart phones for the exact same thing, the easiest way to create a "light gun" would be for 8bitdo to create lightguns that work only with the Mini NT/Super NT by switching to "CCD light gun on port 2" and the NT Mini/Super NT to actually do the logic to make it work.

I'm trying to steer arguments away from pointless arguing over the name of something we don't even know is in the cards, so the pedantic arguments over what "NT" or "Nt" or even the company name means is just pointless conjecture and results in two pages of the same points being argued over and over between people who think it should be named something else. Analogue is not coming to this forum to pick a name for their hardware. And "Analogue" is the company name. https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/analogue And that is the dictionary meaning. For a Mega Drive/Sega Genesis, the most obvious word to use is "Mega", be that Analogue Mega, Analogue MegaMega, Analogue Mega^2, Analogue MegaMaster, Analogue MultiMega ( https://segaretro.org/Sega_Multi-Mega) , Analogue Mega NT, etc. If we want to get real silly, Analogue TeraFPGA ( poking fun at https://segaretro.org/Teradrive )

Nah. My poke as at the one or two people in this thread that keep going "NT means Nintendo", when it's never been stated as such, and never will. Where as everyone in the thread when they talk about the NT, use NT, uppercase. NT means "New Technology", and the Zeppelin company also uses "NT" to mean New Tech" https://zeppelin-nt.de/en/homepage.html There's others as well. If you want to be ridiculous, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NT https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/NT None of these say Nintendo, and someone who sees "NT" all caps, is going to make the association to either Windows NT or Zeppelin NT, both which mean "New Technology" Anyways, just give it a rest, we don't need someone every three pages jumping in and trying to hijack the discussion on what "NT" is. For all intents, the people in this thread have decided that "Mega NT" is the theoretical Sega Genesis aka Mega Drive that Analogue would put out. Analogue MD or Analogue MS or Analogue SG doesn't sound nearly as cool. It's also not cool to step on a trademark, so MD, MS, and SG would likely not happen anyway. If anything the best name is probably the Analogue MegaMega if it has slots for more than just the MD cards.

I just put the box together and then stuck it on a shelf behind some other stuff. I mean in all seriousness, the point of the box is for people who collect the games, including the boxes. I'm not one of those (In fact I used to keep the boxes, and then one day someone put them all in the recycling bin.) I still have my Mario Paint box because it has the game, mouse and mousepad in it. As for how Analogue saved money, nah. The problem was what they used was incredibly unnecessary. Sure, plastic isn't as nice to feel, but name one consume electronics device you buy today that uses milled aluminum. If anything, SECC (Steel) or Aluminum like in how computer chassis are put together would have made more sense and added probably only $20. Just that's more design work. Plastic costs pennies, and can be any shape you want it, even done on a 3D printer, which you can't do with metal, yet. Like given the shape, if someone really wanted to, they could fit it inside their original SNES. Not that the SNES plastic or design was good to begin with. But if someone seriously didn't like the Analogue design they can probably do that, or 3D print something to fit. I'm waiting for the day we can just 3d-print things out of diamond (pure carbon) or carbon-nanotubes, and that stuff will be basically indestructible to environmental concerns.

Give it a rest, the NT means New Tech. Mega NT, Giga NT, BigAssNT, don't care. We keep calling it Mega, because the original marketing for the Mega Drive/Sega Genesis used "Mega". Here, I'll even make it more pedantic. http://www.nanotech-now.com/metric-prefix-table.htm Mega means "one million", or 10^6 Giga means "one billion", or 10^9 Super isn't on that scale.

I wasn't suggesting it was a good idea to support those composite video devices because that just perpetuates GIGO (Garbage in Garbage Out). The solution for the SuperNT, would be to literately have a "GBA Head" where the SoC in the cartridge communicates with the SuperNT which operates as the video, audio, and input. It would not work on a real SNES, because a real SNES does not have the bandwidth to do this. The MSU-1 Video likewise is hamstrung to bandwidth, because a hardware decoder was not designed. What comes off the MSU-1 is literately uncompressed 8-bit images, and there's not enough bandwidth to do it at 256x256, because how it works is basically a kludge. If kevtris wanted to make a MSU-2 which uses the same instructions, but adds dedicated "play/seek/pause" video instructions, that would be the only practical way to make 60fps compressed video operate. That video would be pushed to that EXT layer. But a "SoC" expansion, like what those carts do, would need to actually tell the SuperNT to switch to "video head" mode, and emulate the VDP/PPU/GPU/etc parts in the SuperNT, while leaving whatever complicated CPU parts in the cart slot. Like really, there is not a lot of point of building something like that other than to build something akin to a "GB/GBA Player" as reverse engineering the GBA Player is likely something not unreasonable. But without the SuperNT having documentation, the only person who can do this is kevtris/Analogue.

You know, it's very likely, but not impossible to just figure out what pin the composite video comes off of on those adapters and push it directly to the upscaler, however that would also likely take up a significant amount of FPGA space just to do something poorly. In rubbish clones that support this, they likely just put a switch on the signal pin, so if the signal was present it turned off the video at the encoder. So in those devices it's probably something easily done. But in the Super NT, that's an entire ADC step just for "a competitors inferior product". Rather it would make more sense to just produce FPGA "pin converters" that the SuperNT is actually aware of, so if you plug a MD/SMS/GG cart into one, the FPGA in the SuperNT switches to that core, and off it goes. If you plug an ARM SoC for GBA, it just uses the SuperNT for everything but the CPU. And so forth. Like, I do feel we're going in circles here, but the entire purpose of these carts is really to save having to put a HDMI switch, reaching around TV's in cabinets, or having to reach up to wall mounted TV's to unplug things, which is what you had to do with a lot of the one-sided RCA cables.