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Allen Schweitzer

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About Allen Schweitzer

  • Rank
    Space Invader
  • Birthday 07/07/1973

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Profile Information

  • Custom Status
    Demon Attacker
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Downs, KS (witness protection program)
  • Currently Playing
    Bally Astrocade, or any variant thereof.
  • Playing Next
    I would like to play "you all to load up a gofundme site", so I can quit my job and work on video game systems all day.

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  1. I'm assuming you are taking about the jumper at the bottom left of the board next to the TIP 31. Page 24, next to Q1. https://ballyalley.com/documentation/misc_hardware_docs/Bally/full_size/bally_service_manual.pdf Only the earlier 15V systems had that jumper wire. The later 12V versions (more common) had a 24 Ohm 1/2 W resistor installed there.
  2. Very sorry to hear about this. I know the name very well, but sadly, I never knew the man. He was for certain one of the legends in the Bally community! I repair Bally system's, and build some external hardware for the system (Lil' WHITE RAM and Ulti-Multi). I will try to answer some questions: There is no security chip. The zif socket just allows you to change games without switching cartridges. That is correct. It is one of 3 (or 4 if you count the ROM) custom chips in the system. This is the I/O chip, and mostly controls things like hand control movements. It also has data lines and "controls" audio. If I'm not mistaken, GORF uses 2 of these. The other 2 custom chips are 115XX (Address) and the 116XX (Data). I would be interested in all of them, working or not. If you end up with a nice looking system that works, you would be better off selling it to someone other than me. I cannot offer too much for several systems. But I would be able to restore any that need cleaned up, and likely repair any that are not working. I would want someone else to determine a value for you. I absolutely hate pricing someone else's stuff. Get some opinions, and I'll decide if I'm willing to pay your asking price. As far as I ever knew, he was the father of this game. It was 100% developed/programmed, and finished by him, and if I'm wrong, someone can correct me! Again, I didn't know the man, but wish I would have. He took a wealth of knowledge with him. Were there any interviews done with him that may have been recorded?
  3. Sale of this item must be completed through Atariage for this discount.
  4. I will not be able to check messages on here until next Friday, 8-21-2020.
  5. I'll take $50 my e-bay price for my Atariage friends if anybody is interested in this. Shoot me a PM if interested. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184395873468?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  6. I had a guy do what you said, and he ended up sending 3 controllers to me for repair. I ended up just replacing them because it ruined the "printed circuit boards" (if that's what they are). None of the directions would work on any of them, but they all had continuity. So if you use this method, please be careful.
  7. Thank you both! I hope to get a chance to dig into it this weekend!
  8. Can anybody tell me if it's possible to refurbish a driving controller, and what I need to do to make that happen? I opened one up today that I got recently because it has jitter, and I assumed it had a pot like a paddle controller. When I opened it up, I saw this, and I'm not sure what to do with it.
  9. https://ballyalley.com/documentation/misc_hardware_docs/Bally/full_size/bally_service_manual.pdf There's a direct link for ballyalley to the parts kenzre is talking about. Parts list starts on page 19, and parts layout starts on page 24. I'm very curious to know what you find if you are able to fix this. I have a unit that does pretty much the same thing, and I'm thinking of making it my bench/tester unit until I can figure out what's causing it. I have too much other garbage going on to dig into it at the moment, but I've been wondering for months what's causing the issue. If I can get into mine and figure it out, I'll let you know, and I'd appreciate the same. I am going to try putting in new capacitors and seeing if that would do the trick, but I'm WAY more hopeful than I am optimistic that will fix it.
  10. Wow, this is a really old post, but yes, I do build an Ulti-Multi for the Bally. PM me if you are still a member and see this!
  11. If you're going to add a heatsink to any of the custom IC's, I would only add it to the data chip. If you ever need to pull them, you won't be able to tell which is which if you get them mixed up, and the data chip is the one the really puts off the heat. Console5 builds the best heat sink: https://console5.com/store/dip40-heatsink-glue-on-thermal-epoxy-on-style-dip-40.html I install those on every data chip that doesn't have an aluminum pad on it. Every unit I sell gets that heat sink if there is nothing on the data chip. They can send me an atomic fireball for the plug, if they see fit. They also sell a recap kit, but theirs uses radial caps for some of their replacements. I only use axial's. They are more expensive, but for me, it's a matter of convenience, and getting it right the first time. I had that kit on e-bay, because someone wanted to buy one from me, but as soon as I posted it they fell off the face of the earth. So I took the ad down, because I don't want to be the guy that sells recap kits.
  12. I remove my RF shields, but there are plenty out there that still have theirs and are working today. Recently, I'm finding the C10 capacitor failing on a few units. If it ain't broke, you sure don't have to fix it. I've not found where over-heating has ruined a data chip on any of the broken unit's I have purchased (YET). I know they are out there. When I recap a unit, the voltages and sometimes the uf's on the caps I use are higher than factory spec's. Michael Matte, in an article on ballyalley.com, recommends using a surge protector, leaving your unit switched on, and using the surge protector to turn it on...if I'm not mistaken. He also recommends using a 35V 100uf cap for C10 to slow the hit when the unit is powered on. The service manual calls for a 16V cap here, and I was using 25V caps, but since his recommendation, I will now only use 35V caps when I do this for a customer. I have swapped the RAM's out on some boards (usually for customers) to 4164's. By doing this, you can eliminate the 12 volt (or 15 volt) circuit from the board, and the -5V is limited to the RF only. This reduces power draw, and should generate less heat, and prolong the life of your wall wart. Again, there are many units out there still going after 40+ years. DO unplug the power adapter when not in use! I'm not recommending this particular model, but one of these under your Bally sure couldn't hurt! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Laptop-Cooling-Pad-12-17-Cooler-Pad-Chill-Mat-4-Quiet-Fans-LED-Light-FREE-SHIP/173896890981?hash=item287d0ffa65:g:m8oAAOSw-pBcb3i4
  13. https://console5.com/store/dip40-heatsink-glue-on-thermal-epoxy-on-style-dip-40.html I believe these are the ones you are both referring to. Crossbow is right, and turned me on to these. I use a little Gorilla glue for adhesive. The over heating issue in the Bally would usually cause the data chip only to fail. I would not recommend putting a heat sink on the address or I/O chip. If anyone ever pulls them, you may have some fun playing musical chips trying to figure out which order they go back in, and screw something up. I only heat sink the data chip. Since you run yours with the top off, touch the data chip, and you'll see it's by far the hottest. If there is a "factory" heat sink on there, you should be good. I don't think they are as effective, but it should work. One thing I would highly recommend is NOT REPLACING the top RF shield. RF interference from video games should be a non-issue these days. Removing the top RF shield and tossing it in the dumpster would be a great start. I've heard people call the top RF shield a "heat shield", which today is probably a more appropriate term, as the only thing it accomplishes is shielding the heat from being able to escape the components on the board...especially your 12 (or 15) and 10 V regulator, and the data chip. I've NEVER had a problem running any of mine with the top RF shield removed. I mount it slightly left of center, hanging off a bit, so you can see the "notch" and the pin 1 indicator.
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