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Allen Schweitzer

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About Allen Schweitzer

  • Rank
    Space Invader
  • Birthday 07/07/1973

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  • Custom Status
    Demon Attacker
  • Gender
  • Location
    Downs, KS (witness protection program)
  • Currently Playing
    Bally Astrocade, or any variant thereof. I'm sorry... Is there another system?
  • Playing Next
    Next I would like to play you all to load up a gofundme site, so I can quit my job and work on video game systems all day.

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  1. Wow, this is a really old post, but yes, I do build an Ulti-Multi for the Bally. PM me if you are still a member and see this!
  2. If you're going to add a heatsink to any of the custom IC's, I would only add it to the data chip. If you ever need to pull them, you won't be able to tell which is which if you get them mixed up, and the data chip is the one the really puts off the heat. Console5 builds the best heat sink: https://console5.com/store/dip40-heatsink-glue-on-thermal-epoxy-on-style-dip-40.html I install those on every data chip that doesn't have an aluminum pad on it. Every unit I sell gets that heat sink if there is nothing on the data chip. They can send me an atomic fireball for the plug, if they see fit. They also sell a recap kit, but theirs uses radial caps for some of their replacements. I only use axial's. They are more expensive, but for me, it's a matter of convenience, and getting it right the first time. I had that kit on e-bay, because someone wanted to buy one from me, but as soon as I posted it they fell off the face of the earth. So I took the ad down, because I don't want to be the guy that sells recap kits.
  3. I remove my RF shields, but there are plenty out there that still have theirs and are working today. Recently, I'm finding the C10 capacitor failing on a few units. If it ain't broke, you sure don't have to fix it. I've not found where over-heating has ruined a data chip on any of the broken unit's I have purchased (YET). I know they are out there. When I recap a unit, the voltages and sometimes the uf's on the caps I use are higher than factory spec's. Michael Matte, in an article on ballyalley.com, recommends using a surge protector, leaving your unit switched on, and using the surge protector to turn it on...if I'm not mistaken. He also recommends using a 35V 100uf cap for C10 to slow the hit when the unit is powered on. The service manual calls for a 16V cap here, and I was using 25V caps, but since his recommendation, I will now only use 35V caps when I do this for a customer. I have swapped the RAM's out on some boards (usually for customers) to 4164's. By doing this, you can eliminate the 12 volt (or 15 volt) circuit from the board, and the -5V is limited to the RF only. This reduces power draw, and should generate less heat, and prolong the life of your wall wart. Again, there are many units out there still going after 40+ years. DO unplug the power adapter when not in use! I'm not recommending this particular model, but one of these under your Bally sure couldn't hurt! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Laptop-Cooling-Pad-12-17-Cooler-Pad-Chill-Mat-4-Quiet-Fans-LED-Light-FREE-SHIP/173896890981?hash=item287d0ffa65:g:m8oAAOSw-pBcb3i4
  4. https://console5.com/store/dip40-heatsink-glue-on-thermal-epoxy-on-style-dip-40.html I believe these are the ones you are both referring to. Crossbow is right, and turned me on to these. I use a little Gorilla glue for adhesive. The over heating issue in the Bally would usually cause the data chip only to fail. I would not recommend putting a heat sink on the address or I/O chip. If anyone ever pulls them, you may have some fun playing musical chips trying to figure out which order they go back in, and screw something up. I only heat sink the data chip. Since you run yours with the top off, touch the data chip, and you'll see it's by far the hottest. If there is a "factory" heat sink on there, you should be good. I don't think they are as effective, but it should work. One thing I would highly recommend is NOT REPLACING the top RF shield. RF interference from video games should be a non-issue these days. Removing the top RF shield and tossing it in the dumpster would be a great start. I've heard people call the top RF shield a "heat shield", which today is probably a more appropriate term, as the only thing it accomplishes is shielding the heat from being able to escape the components on the board...especially your 12 (or 15) and 10 V regulator, and the data chip. I've NEVER had a problem running any of mine with the top RF shield removed. I mount it slightly left of center, hanging off a bit, so you can see the "notch" and the pin 1 indicator.
  5. I'm very interested to see where this ends up!!! Keep the information coming in on this! Thank you!
  6. Thanks so much for this. I bought a Sears Light sixer (Taiwan) last year, and I love it to death. But I just tried Warlords and NO POT ACTION for player 2. I reflowed the solder joints and everything works GREAT NOW!!!
  7. You can relocate the big caps. I do that on most of the ones I recap. The pics are horrible, but I'm going to start using a 2200 uf 25V axial instead of the 1500 uf radial in the pics (after I run out). I use them on both the Bally and Atari 2600's I recap. If you can't see what's up here let me know. I know for sure, Michael told me to use a 16V on the 100 uf lytic. But I'm tired, and so I might not be putting my thoughts down here very clearly.
  8. https://www.ebay.com/itm/183381656963?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  9. Sloshed was added, and make sure you send me a PM if you want one. I don't check this posting very often. I do not make a version without dip switches.
  10. I think one of you should buy it off e-bay and let me know what you think of it! (just kidding)
  11. Yes, now that you say that, I can see that it would "fit" my 6 switch. They must have had some extra bottoms to get rid of when they downgraded to the "model A". And I'm too lazy to set the date on that camera every time...
  12. I got this 2600 A and I've never seen this before. This is on the back bottom of the case. There is some sort of sticker over it and a factory indention where the sticker has been applied. This had a Rev 9 board in it, and I'm trying to figure out what the heck is going on here. It will soon be recapped, cleaned up and sold, but I sure would like to know what's going on here if any body knows. I appreciate it. Thank you!
  13. This version of the cart is still using ROM rev. 3.2, right? If so, then you can link people to the DIP switch settings, here: http://www.ballyalley.com/documentation/multicarts/multicart_(GaMBITS)/Program%20switch%20settings%20UM%203_2_Added_Sloshed.pdf The latest instruction book for the UltiMulti is still version 1.5.1, I think. If so, then that's here: http://www.ballyalley.com/documentation/multicarts/multicart_(GaMBITS)/Instruction_book_for_the_UltiMulti_Cartridge_Version_1_5_1.pdf
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