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Allen Schweitzer

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About Allen Schweitzer

  • Rank
    Space Invader
  • Birthday 07/07/1973

Profile Information

  • Custom Status
    Demon Attacker
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Downs, KS (witness protection program)
  • Currently Playing
    Atari 2600... Demon Attack is still my favorite, but I miss my 5200 that was lost in a flood.
  • Playing Next
    Bally Professional Arcade Ulti-Multi. Can't wait 'till I get my very first gaming system back...

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  1. https://console5.com/store/dip40-heatsink-glue-on-thermal-epoxy-on-style-dip-40.html I believe these are the ones you are both referring to. Crossbow is right, and turned me on to these. I use a little Gorilla glue for adhesive. The over heating issue in the Bally would usually cause the data chip only to fail. I would not recommend putting a heat sink on the address or I/O chip. If anyone ever pulls them, you may have some fun playing musical chips trying to figure out which order they go back in, and screw something up. I only heat sink the data chip. Since you run yours with the top off, touch the data chip, and you'll see it's by far the hottest. If there is a "factory" heat sink on there, you should be good. I don't think they are as effective, but it should work. One thing I would highly recommend is NOT REPLACING the top RF shield. RF interference from video games should be a non-issue these days. Removing the top RF shield and tossing it in the dumpster would be a great start. I've heard people call the top RF shield a "heat shield", which today is probably a more appropriate term, as the only thing it accomplishes is shielding the heat from being able to escape the components on the board...especially your 12 (or 15) and 10 V regulator, and the data chip. I've NEVER had a problem running any of mine with the top RF shield removed. I mount it slightly left of center, hanging off a bit, so you can see the "notch" and the pin 1 indicator.
  2. I'm very interested to see where this ends up!!! Keep the information coming in on this! Thank you!
  3. Thanks so much for this. I bought a Sears Light sixer (Taiwan) last year, and I love it to death. But I just tried Warlords and NO POT ACTION for player 2. I reflowed the solder joints and everything works GREAT NOW!!!
  4. You can relocate the big caps. I do that on most of the ones I recap. The pics are horrible, but I'm going to start using a 2200 uf 25V axial instead of the 1500 uf radial in the pics (after I run out). I use them on both the Bally and Atari 2600's I recap. If you can't see what's up here let me know. I know for sure, Michael told me to use a 16V on the 100 uf lytic. But I'm tired, and so I might not be putting my thoughts down here very clearly.
  5. https://www.ebay.com/itm/183381656963?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  6. Sloshed was added, and make sure you send me a PM if you want one. I don't check this posting very often. I do not make a version without dip switches.
  7. I think one of you should buy it off e-bay and let me know what you think of it! (just kidding)
  8. Yes, now that you say that, I can see that it would "fit" my 6 switch. They must have had some extra bottoms to get rid of when they downgraded to the "model A". And I'm too lazy to set the date on that camera every time...
  9. I got this 2600 A and I've never seen this before. This is on the back bottom of the case. There is some sort of sticker over it and a factory indention where the sticker has been applied. This had a Rev 9 board in it, and I'm trying to figure out what the heck is going on here. It will soon be recapped, cleaned up and sold, but I sure would like to know what's going on here if any body knows. I appreciate it. Thank you!
  10. This version of the cart is still using ROM rev. 3.2, right? If so, then you can link people to the DIP switch settings, here: http://www.ballyalley.com/documentation/multicarts/multicart_(GaMBITS)/Program%20switch%20settings%20UM%203_2_Added_Sloshed.pdf The latest instruction book for the UltiMulti is still version 1.5.1, I think. If so, then that's here: http://www.ballyalley.com/documentation/multicarts/multicart_(GaMBITS)/Instruction_book_for_the_UltiMulti_Cartridge_Version_1_5_1.pdf
  11. Yeah, there's no list of games in a picture, unless you go to ballyalley.com webstie or view the attached... sorry to post twice...
  12. BRAND NEW 3.21 Ultimulti's for the Bally Astrocade are once again on sale. $125 each. Send me a PM and I will get back to you after this weekend. Buy yours here on Atariage and get FREE SHIPPING for a limited time. DON'T FORGET - Some of these games cannot be played without the RAM expansion (LWR, or Lil' WHITE RAM). I plan on having some of these ready to go before the month of May. Order one of these and get your LWR later, at a discount by pre-ordering your LWR when you order your Ultimulti. If they don't sell out super fast here, they will be going on e-bay. All original games released for the Bally can be played directly from this cart. Games - Over 160 games and programs on this cartridge! A list of games and programs on the UltiMulti is shown on one of the pictures above, and this sheet will be included. Pretty much ANY questions you may have about these games can be answered on ballyalley.com. A better view of the list of games can be found here: ballyalley.com/documentation/multicarts/multicart_(GaMBITS)/UltiMulti_Version_DIP_Switch_Settings_3_2.pdf
  13. https://www.ebay.com/itm/183050557864?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
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