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About [email protected]

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  1. Here is mine with the cracked front, covered with Black Vinyl...
  2. It cracked on the front. I epoxy'd the 2 parts together. Sanded it down and covered it in black vinyl. Looks really good (almost sinister), but would prefer OEM look.
  3. Anyone selling plexiglass front cover for Indus drive? I bought mine on ebay, arrived cracked... Thanks
  4. Best electronics sells new CO17945 for $15 plus shipping.
  5. See the auction link below for a badge that is made of vinyl. This fits way better than the plastic badge that looks like brushed aluminum (the badge from mateoproceo is too thick and it doesn't look very good when installed). https://allegro.pl/oferta/sticker-znaczek-atari-800-xe-65-xe-130-xe-7965983438 He also sells on facebook and ships worldwide. Another option is to strip the faded paint from the original Atari badge, to reveal the aluminum finish underneath. I love the way it looks (picture of my 130xe is attached).
  6. I recently purchased an Atari 130XE, in "perfect" condition. The computer boots, but composite video has no output (screen is completely black). The SVideo output provides nice and crisp video. The composite cable works on my 800xl, so the cable is fine. Before I open it up, any ideas what might be the culprit?
  7. The layer of paint on the original badge can be stripped to reveal nice aluminum finish. You have to have some patience removing the badge from the 130xe, applying some heat from hairdryer to remove the badge without bending it works well.
  8. Best Electronics sells new power supplies for $15 + about $7 for shipping.
  9. I'm pretty sure I have some leafs for StockPole (I'll check tonight). That's my auction for the keys quoted above. PM me your address and I'll send it out. I'll probably cut out a piece from the PCB or de-solder, whatever is easier.
  10. They just fixed the interleave (gave me a new firmware in the chat I started) I tried it this morning and now the ATR images are loading quickly. Really a nice solution for failing XF551 drives. I will do more testing over the weekend.
  11. Gotek allows different configuration options via FF.cfg file, but there are no examples on how to configure it for 8bit Ataris. I posted the same question on https://github.com/keirf/FlashFloppy/issues/223 Hopefully will get somewhere. I wanted to get a 5.25 drive going, but didn't want to spend over $60 on a new drive mech, not knowing if the XF551 board is working.. At least now I know that the board is fine and my drive drive is dead (not the other way around). However, if this gotek works with XF551 board, my next step is to get a OLED screen and a 3.5-5.25 bracket for the Gotek, so it fits nicely in the XF551 enclosure.
  12. I installed the Gotek in the XF551 enclosure. It works, but it is about 50% slower than SIO2SD. This is using FlashFloppy v 2.04 (ATR support is in experimental stages). Video of it loading Donkey Kong is linked below (the data-load bits are slow, if you turn up the volume you'll see what I mean). Also, I wonder if it's possible to power this Gotek and the XF551 board from the SIO bus, skipping the power supply?
  13. I looked around ebay, and these 5.25 360K drives are expensive. So I decided to play around with Gotek drive in a XF551 enclosure. I've read that the latest FlashFloppy firmware supports ATR images, so I will give that a try, once my Gotek arrives from China. The floppy cable will have to be replaced. I don't know yet what's simpler - crimp a new 3.5 inch floppy cable to the existing connector on the XF551 board, or solder in a new 34 pin header to this board. If it works, I will probably buy a 3.5 to 5.25 faceplate, so the 3.5 inch Gotek fits nicely within the XF551 enclosure.
  14. Did you run into any problems installing the Teac drive. Were the cables long enough? About other problems to be aware of? Thanks for this idea.
  15. Thanks for all the replies - it turns out my drive does not spin up at all. The head moves, but the drive mech appears dead. That looks so cool.
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