Blinky

it should be: http://www.atariage.com/forums/viewtopic.p...p=666596#666596 and http://www.atariage.com/forums/download.php?id=27820 This is release 6 Can somebody edit my Post 'Cause I can't.

They look good too. While looking closely at the sprites I found another bug ! and I guess I was a little too quickly on announching the final bin ! If you look good at the ships while they crash into eachother you can see the X-Wing change into a Tie Fighter. Now if Anakin would fly that X-Wing it would make some sense. But luke ? No way. So I fixed this and heres release 6 and Final (for now). I guess you need a little hacking again Retrofan ! vadervsluke6.zip

Vader vs. Luke is Final: http://www.atariage.com/forums/viewtopic.p...p=666018#666018 These are the Final ROMs: http://www.atariage.com/forums/download.php?id=27771 Please ignore any other roms from that topic and the ones I mailed to the AA editor last week.

It's great to see someone hack my hack. I had the Idea for round corners too and maybe would have used it if it could be aligned to single scanline instead of two. I also tried filling up the gaps at the outer lanes. But I the standard square target look is just the best. The 6 pixel high Vader Tie Fighter looks cool though. What do the other sprites look like ? My hack is final now (StanJR?) and I attached a final zip. there are no changes to the NTSC version since release 4 But for the PAL version I removed some hacking leftovers that I forgot to take out. I also changed the instructions, added images of a label and a screenshot. I asked AA for the possibility of the hack getting on a cart. But haven't heard since. The're probably too busy. vadervslukefinal.zip

I don't know anything about the cybertech board. But I'm just wondering. It looks if pin 10 of the cybertech board does not connect to the 'motherboard'. When it is not connected. shouldn't it be connected ? or does the cybertech board produce its own color delay (voltage) ? If pin 10 is connected just forget I asked.

I get the picture now. Thanks.

I'm just wondering can you play longer with the 7V adapter than with the 9V one ? Did you try the bad CPU in your backup system ? 'Cause when reading your post It sounds like a overheating 7805. Is it screwed firmly to the PCB and does it have a heat sink or not. ?

Love The LEDs. Looking at the picture I'd say you use a buffer two counters ICs (393?) and a decoder. Dip switches for High Banks and switches for programing (voltage) ? Love to see a schematic. I'm always looking for new ideas.

With the mod you discribe. You can only adjust lumminance not color. for color you need to adjust the pot on the Atari PCB. Use a cart which can produce a black/white picture and adjust your mod so the greys are right. Then adjust the pot on the Atari PCB to adjust the colors. Hope this helps

I managed to fix it ! Both sprites have nice square dixels (double pixels) now. Darth Vaders Tie Fighter is still updated during screen time. so you can see a smal dixel shift. But the X-Wing is perfect though ! For the PAL version I also fixed a bug that when two lanes are changed at once the correct vertical distance is used. vadervsluke4.zip

I it is caused by timing differences for drawing the main race track and the one with the dots. Havn't found a fix for it. But will give it one more try.

I had a go at designing some labels for the hack. Let me know what you think about them. Here are the reduced size labels:

Thanks for the suggestions!

Yeah thats it ! I think I should change the story. Yesterday I was playing my hack intensively and found out that there was a problem caused by the bigger sprites I use. Sometimes a collision happens when the ships are in different trenches (I really like the sound of that!). I could fix this problem by shifting the X-wing up by 1 pixel. So heres release 3 of my hack. I'd love to see my hack on a cart and plug it in for real. But I don't now where to start and if it would be possible because of copyrights to the original game and using star wars trademarks. But if that's no problem then I need help with the label, manual and packaging. vadervsluke3.zip

If the cable comes off easy. Then it is probably the RCA connector. I had the same problem with mine. I used a very small screwdriver the same kind you can use to open-up a watch. You need to bend the two half round metal tabs inside the RCA connector a little. I had my Jr already opened up for a VDO MOD so I did it at the back side of the RCA connector where the tabs are easier to access. But you might try it first at the front of the RCA connector without opening your Jr first. Shine a bright light into the RCA connector and look for the half round tabs at each side. Bend them a little at the top of each tab where you can see the (white) plastic.

Yes. Indeed. Some Atari protos used A transistor (NPN) and two resistors. Have a look at: http://www.atariprotos.com/2600/software/m...alds/bigmac.htm

As a minimum It must be screwed to the board so it can dissipate its heat. A heat sink would be even better and is used on several(most?) boards. The 78M05 has 500mA rating and It has a thermal overload protection. Just check how fast it heats up and that there where no shorts made when the 7805 replaced. If the 7805 was replaced because a adapter was used with the wrong polarity or too high rating (>12V 500mA) then that 2200uF Capacitor might need to be replaced too.

Love to see it on on a cart too. I really have to solder my multicart now so I can play it on the real thing. 'Cause the keys in emulators are just not fast enough for a trick I used to do playing the original game. I managed to hack a 4th score digit into the game as you can see below. Now lets get that high score ! Here's the new archive. with the new PAL and NTSC versions. vadervsluke2.zip

Whoops! mixed it up with Z80 code it should read SEC ofcourse !

You mean how to negate a two complements value (number=-number)? Substrack the number from zero. LDA #0 SCF SBC PUCK_H STA puck_H LDA #0 SBC PUCK_H+1 STA PUCK_H+1 should do the trick

The original game just had two symetric sprites, one horizontal, and one vertical. I thought it would be more fun to have (and watch) seperate sprites for each direction and do not need to be symetrical. So I spent some time hacking the code to make it possible and it worked out pretty well. I'm now looking into a way to add a 4th score digit. The original game was limited to a perfect score of 1080 points in 15 heats so a 4th digit was not that important. But since I hacked it to have unlimited heats a 4th digit would be fun for a hi-score challenge.

Thanks for the feedback. Here's also a screenshot I wanted to add to my original post.

Here's a Dodge'em hack from a galaxy far far away ... I've made several hacks and fixes to give it a Star Wars look and more fun to play. The archive attached contains hacked PAL and NTSC versions. May the force be with you ! vadervsluke.zip

The datasheet say it will continue to count to a maximum of -255T which would be 1 and not zero. This situation should never happen. But when writting new code and you're code locks-up for a unknown reason. This might something to look for. It's just something to keep in mind when programming. Thanks. I was using the wrong vcs.h which didn't include it.

You could say the timer will read zero during the last 'interval' cycles Note that in case the timer is read after it timed out it will never become zero again and code will loop infinite. An alternative method for reading the timer is by testing the timer interrupt bit which is set when the timer times out. The A register is left untouched and It is supported by z26 too! WSLP bit INTIM+1 ;test timer interrupt flag bpl WSLP ;branch timer still counting sta WSYNC ;complete last scanline Personally I use INTIRQ instead of INTIM+1. But INTIRQ is not yet defined in vcs