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Everything posted by Buckaroo

  1. I unearthed a Sonic 1 prototype which is being streamed on Twitch now with a special NYE countdown video at 00:00 GMT https://www.twitch.tv/hiddenpalace Enjoy
  2. I don't think this one is a clone. Polyvox officially released the 2600 in Brazil. It has the Atari 2600 logo on the front. I've got a couple of NTSC clones and originals that have all worked on this set. This is the only console I've never been able to tune in 100%
  3. Picked up a Polyvox Vader today in a bundle with some Brazilian games. It has a hard wired power lead and a switch on the base between 110v 220v. The closest I have to this is a 115v 230v. I guess the extra 5-10v isn't going to hurt it that much (but it is weird to hear an Atari buzz) I've tried tuning it in but I get wavy blue lines on the screen and no sound. I've read that they use PAL-M which is a format my HDTV doesn't have. The systems my TV can tune are [B/G] [D/K] [L] it works best on [B/G] My HDTV has colour modes for [PAL] [SECAM] [NTSC 4.43] [NTSC 3.58] but none of the work you have to let it tune on [AUTO] This is staying firmly in my collection but I was wondering if anyone else in the UK has had better results.
  4. Just spotted this trashed Dactar clone in an episode of 3% on Netflix. S4:E7 Chapter 07 Sun - Roughly 14 minutes in. It's a Brazillian show and a Brazillian Atari clone. I love the embossed logo on the top, now I want one.
  5. Thanks for the quick reply. I had a look on the AtariAge site but the labels all had joystick controllers written on. It really caught me out, I knew the game was for the joystick controller but the label made me get the paddles and driving controller out to try. Cheers
  6. I was sorting through a pile of games and saw these odd label errors on Dodge 'Em. The one on the right says it uses paddle controllers (it doesn't I checked). The one on the left looks the same but has a black piece of tape censoring it out. I've got other copies of this game that say joystick controllers. These are both PAL versions, I know there's a lot of unusual behaviour in this region. Is this a common misprint?
  7. Yes that looks like a PAL 4 switch Atari made in Ireland. The serial number is pretty low. It would have been easier to identify from the other side though. Does it have a black or wooden strip at the front?
  8. Sorry for the late reply, I didn't get a notification for some reason. I'm glad you got it working. I'm not sure about the size of the microswitches but there might be one step you missed. I forgot to add photos of removing the sponge pad underneath the button. If you don't remove this then the button still works but doesn't fit very well. Hope it makes sense from the attached picture.
  9. No there's nothing specific you need to do. Just make sure that the holes are clear of glue on the left and right and where the tabs to hold the button are. Looking back at the pictures I used way too much glue.
  10. Saw a couple of other threads about fixing these buttons but none that were fixed in the same way. This is a cheap fix as the buttons are really cheap and it works great. You can press the button anywhere and it clicks every time. It's non invasive so this can be reversed easily if you want to put your Atari back to stock. I had a ribbon on a Junior that was beyond repair and didn't have any spares ribbons to hand so came up with this fix as I already had the buttons. You'll need: 2x tactile momentary switches 30cm double core wire (roughly) Soldering iron Glue gun (or glue if you don't have one) Remove the console case, unplug the ribbon cable then use something blunt to pop the buttons out of the casing. Peel the soft backing off of the switches as this will no longer be needed. Slide the ribbon cable out (we won't need it anymore) There's a recess on the bottom of the switch, here's where we will seat the button Solder roughly 15-20cm of cable to each of the 2 buttons, I used network cable but anything will do. Feed the wires through the holes on the sides where the ribbon used to be. Glue the buttons into place in the centre at the bottom of the switch (be careful not to get glue on the sides as it will make the button feel spongey) Here are the points I soldered to. I used a PAL Junior so the layout may be different on NTSC. The points are easy to trace as only 3 tracks come from the ribbon connector. Solder the wires into place Close you case back up and you're ready to go. The buttons feel way more responsive than any Junior I've ever had (even the one I had in the eighties) To find the same type of buttons I used search for "Mini Micro Momentary Tactile Push Button Switch"
  11. They're meant to be for charging phones or laptops. Some of the staff were laughing like crazy when they saw it.
  12. PAL monitors showing NTSC colours suck. I was annoyed at myself for not bringing a PAL system. I've got loads of other Ataris. I just grabbed the TV Boy because it was small.
  13. Picked up a SONY Trinitron KV-1400UB CRT TV today (about 80 miles away from me) for playing Atari games. On the train home I hooked it up to a TV Boy II and got some cool pics of some 2600 games backed by the Cornish coastline and countryside. Thanks to "We Have What You Need" in Penzance for supplying the TV and to the GWR staff for not kicking me off.
  14. Here's a couple of looping rolling demos for three of the levels in game
  15. Buckaroo

    Citadel of the Cryptid

    Rolling demos of Citadel of the Cryptid
  16. I've been playing around with bits for this game for over a year now but am struggling find the motivation to finish it. Leave some comments and spur me on to finishing this project. It's a platform game using some of the mechanics you'd expect from a modern platformer but to my knowledge there's nothing quite like this for the 2600. Find attached a demo of the basic physics/mechanics of the game. There is no goal at the moment you just have to keep moving up the screen to avoid death. It picks a new level every time you die. You can't lose and the level data repeats, I've got another file I'm working on with the level designer in it. COTC_Demo.bas.bin Controls: Fire - Jump Fire/Fire - Double Jump Fire - While on Wall - Wall Jump Up/Up - Fly Left/Left or Right/Right - Dash I've got plans well beyond what's in this demo. In the demo you can't lose and the level data scrolls. COTC_Demo.bas.bin
  17. I wanted to make a donation from PayPal as I'm in the UK and will get charged for transferring currency if I use my bank. Could you confirm that I can send it through PayPal to [email protected], I don't want it ending up in the wrong place or in an old email account.
  18. I saw the Whitney music box by Jim Bumgardner many years ago and found the effect mesmerising. The effect is described in the book "Digital Harmony" by John Whitney. I've radically simplified the effect to work on the Atari 2600. Make sure the sound is turned up. Use the fire button to change the preset. whitney.bas.bin whitney.bas P.S. I've made no attempt to optimise this code, there's definitely procedures which could have been slimlined
  19. Here's a great example of gravity and smooth motion. It's not my original file I found it on AtariAge forum but can't remember where. inertia.bas Simple sprite change code Sprite change.bas
  20. Thanks. that worked a treat. I feel foolish now for not trying before I posted.
  21. My graphics card broke so I had to remove it and use the on board one. Since then I keep getting this weird glitch in the main code window of Visual BB. When you move the mouse it constantly flicks between the cursor and the caret, it seems as though it trying to do something and struggling all the time. I tried a reinstall of Visual BB but it keeps happening. Has anyone had this or can shed any light on why it may be happening. Thanks
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