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About -^CrossBow^-

  • Rank
    Gamer, Collector, & Console Enhancer
  • Birthday 10/26/1974

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  • Custom Status
    Collector of Fine Atari and Sega Antiquities!
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  • Location
    Ivory Tower, Fantasia (Oklahoma)
  • Interests
    Atari 2600, 5200, 7800, PC games, Sega, Modern games

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  1. I really wish I could but that timeframe is 10am in the morning in the middle of my work so I'm not able to participate or watch at that time.
  2. There is one visual anomaly that remains on @YannAros current boards that I hard modified to work. That is that the very upper portion of the image is skewed a bit towards the right. It is like the vsync isn't quite hitting where it should be and it is visible because of this. However, it is only doing this in what would have been the overscan area of the image anyway. So it doesn't actually affect the game play field at all. Many games use a black background or black border around the game field and this visual anomaly isn't shown in those instances. It will appear on all of the LTO menu screens and title screen but again doesn't cause any video drop outs or anything like that in the LTO. It is also visible on most of the games that use a title screen that use the Mattel style screen before beginning the game. But once in the game, the anomaly either isn't present due to background and border being black, or it is present but not causing any visual issues within the game play field. The videos I've posted in the past in this thread I think show the effect I'm talking about. But here are some screencaps from my YT vids that demo the boards: Here is the LTO title through Crayon's v5 board: And here is the same title screen through Yannick's current version of the board where I've made the hardware modifications to the board to get it stable on OSSC: But, this effect isn't present when using the cheap SCART to HDMI converters and through the OSSC it is a bit less pronounced but still present though darker and blends in more on the screen. My guess is that the anomaly on the top on Yannick's board could be due to the longer delay Crayon mentioned in his last post? Both shots were captured with the boards connected directly to my Tink2x SCART using a set of Insurrection Industries Genesis 2 RGB SCART cables. OSSC with Yannick's board has the same effect only you don't see the white/grey colors along the top nearly as bright and so it just looks cut off along the top instead. And yes the brightness is that different between the two boards in this setup. Yannick's also has 75Ω resistors on the outputs for the R,G,B but for whatever reason, the image isn't darkened as much with those cables as it does through Crayon's. I also did modify my cables temporarily to remove the resistors on those lines inside the SCART housing and the brightness did come up more in line with what you see on Yannick's. Yannick's board also has vias behind and in front of those resistors so you found that it was too dark for whatever reason, you could put jumper wires in those vias to bypass his output resistors but I've not found that needed in my installs yet and in fact when I did this originally, the image was a bit too bright and washed out as his older revision board produced.
  3. In looking at this, what you could do to tidy things up even more is to mount the UAV on the PCV directly below the reset switch as there is room there for it. That would allow for shorter wire runs from the UAV to the components where you are tapping the video signals from. From there, you could also use shorter wires to the AV jacks on the back. The shorter the wiring the less there is for outside interference to affect any of the signals. I also try and reuse the RF shielding if at all possible as it not only helped in the day to prevent interference from the Atari to nearby devices, but it helps with all of the radio we use today from interfering with the Atari and the video signals there as well. But you would have to run the wiring either through an opening in the RF shield, or better yet. Cut out a notch on the side of the RF shielding for the wiring to come through.
  4. S-video will make things sharper for sure, but I tend to adjust the 7800 color pot (Only when it is really needed!!!) using the RF or composite on a CRT. Using the s-video or an LCD, you will never get the colors to look quite right because s-video doesn't do artifacting and LCDs handle the color differently. So yeah...best to adjust it using a CRT through RF or composite outputs. But that also means that the colors will always look different on modern displays as opposed to a CRT to some degree. Just a trade-off you have to deal with until there is something better that comes along to compensate for that.
  5. I use heatshrink tubing on the boss posts to give them more strength. When they break off, assuming they break from the base or in a whole piece, I will use epoxy to put them back on and then sometimes have to drill and tap the opening back out for the screws again. But as was shown, we do have one AA member here (and pretty cool 7800 game programmer and general really nice dude) that has developed a case shell for the 7800 that can be 3D printed. He stated tonight a bit ago that once he is finished with it, he will likely release the STL files for others to make their own.
  6. s-video will have the same video issues just be aware of that. It really is the Tink2x it seems that has the most issues. I wasn't even aware there were issues with some of these games as my setup with the UAV doesn't exhibit any problems with any aside from Buck Rogers that I've found. So yeah, it just depends on how the scaler handles the signals.
  7. I figured it could be offered as a kit through AA similar to the pause mod kits for the 2600? Al has the ability to make the ROMs provided he has the chips. Could also perhaps reach out to TBA as they currently make and sell the PAL/NTSC Asteroids BIOS kits now.
  8. Guess well send them all to you then. Again, I've only had need for an eprom burner like 3x ever in the past 20 years so it isn't something I've bothered getting. Having said that, the 3x I needed one I either found someone to burn the chips for me I needed, or was able to borrow a burner long enough for the job I needed it for.
  9. To be clear, I can offer the installation but I can't offer making the BIOS ROM chips as I haven't an eprom burner of my own. Just never really had a need for one and I really don't see myself buying one for the few of these that I would likely get tasked with doing. Assuming the actual installation is about the same, I'm sure this will be a mostly kit parts cost + return shipping type of pricing for most.
  10. I'm sure I will offer this along with several others. I've done other BIOS swaps on the 7800 in the past (Not this exact one of course), but I would imagine the process will be the same as others. I'm sure @PacManPlus can elaborate on that more.
  11. I use the RF cables that console5 sells. They have a 3ft and 6ft. I use 3ft cables as I only need the RF for testing consoles and don't typically have them connected that way to play. But they have been the best non-stock cables I've found for this use. https://console5.com/store/3-foot-0-9m-gold-plated-coaxial-audio-video-rca-cable-rg59u-75ohm.html https://console5.com/store/6-foot-1-8m-gold-plated-coaxial-audio-video-rca-cable-rg59u-75ohm.html
  12. Also the 3.3 sec delay BIOS is what Console5 is now selling to replace the previous no delay they used to sell. I have one of these newer ones but haven't installed it into my CV yet. One game I had nothing but issues was was the initial release of Risky Rick. The game flat our refused to start up at all with the no delay bios installed. It was the main reason I put the original back into my CV and still use that for the time being. I'm sure it would work better with the shorter 3.3 sec delay version and I have the ROM for the game now as well so it is more of less a null issue for me at this point.
  13. I essentially tested all of mine when I made my images I used on my RHEA I have installed into my Saturn. Just used Imgburn and one other program that escapes my mind right now, to make the images from my originals. I had one Saturn game that wouldn't work due to some pinholes in the disc. That was my original of In the Hunt. Odd thing is that it does actually work in a real saturn and only me PC drive didn't like it. So yes, on that disc I had to resort to other means to get an image of it on my Rhea.
  14. You could also just solder to the bottom of the pins of the PCB off the IC chips as well and I do that on occasion sometimes. But, you are correct, in that the next best thing is to get the schemes and start looking for the next component off the IC legs attached and solder to that point. Use your DMM to verify continuity to that component to be sure. That is essentially what is done on the UAV mods on the 7800. We solder to the bank of resistors because they are all lined up nicely and also happen to be the next direct connection to the actual IC and data lines we need to attach to.
  15. Yannick's board does work with the OSSC on my setup in at least passthrough, 2x and 5x modes. I think 4x and 3x produce a resolution that my TV isn't okay with and not a fault of the OSSC. Yannick's solution he told me he got from you @the_crayon_king? Basically just isolating some of the input signals with some diodes and a resistor to provide the sync directly. That is the hardware fix I did on the last batch of semi proto boards he sent me and I've been hearing good things. His board is working on the Tink5x in all modes as well minus the 1080p FULL or FILL mode as that causes drop outs. But all others seem to work fine on that device.
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