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About -^CrossBow^-

  • Rank
    Gamer, Collector, & Console Enhancer
  • Birthday 10/26/1974

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  • Custom Status
    Collector of Fine Atari and Sega Antiquities!
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  • Location
    Ivory Tower, Fantasia (Oklahoma)
  • Interests
    Atari 2600, 5200, 7800, PC games, Sega, Modern games
  • Currently Playing
    Kingdom Hearts 1.5 HD Final Remix on PS4
  • Playing Next
    Likley to be Kingdom Hearts 2 Final Remix on PS4

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  1. Correct, the continuity is only checking that you have good connection from the chip IC leg to where the socket is soldered to the board. If the logic chip is faulty internally, you won't be able to test that with just a continuity check. That is where O'scopes and logic analyzers come into place. But this is why I keep about a half dozen fully working 2600s along with a half dozen untested and ugly beaten up units on hand as parts donors. Cheaper to pick up used and abused 2600s without any accessories than to purchase the chips from known sources by themselves.
  2. That is what was wrong with my original 4-port switch box. Still have it and it still works good to this day since I repaired it like 20 years ago?
  3. As you know Console5 has the dome replacement switches and I've used them to great success several times. I even used one of the 4 post version ones to fix a cracked dome switch on an Intellivision once but soldering each corner down to the PCB of the Intelly. Console5 also sells OEM replacement front panel switches and I usually recommend changing those out if even one or two are flakey. I use a higher quality switch in most of my work for those who want it but also have a small pile of these OEMs from console5 as well.
  4. You need get a multimeter and set it continuity mode. Check that the Negative input from where the power plugs in, is making contact with the middle via for the voltage regulator. That is the ground. Also check for continuity from that center pin for the VR to other ground points along the board to check if the ground is broken in some way. If you aren't getting a beep to indicate a good connection then: You would just need to wire the center pin of the VR to another ground location on the board. On most PCBs then and now, there is usually a large ground plane all around the outer edge of the PCB. But if you have put in two VRs and both receive 9v on the input and nothing on the output, then you either have the ground via not making contact with the rest of the ground plane, or you are installing the VR in backwards though that last one isn't as likely since you usually have a heatsink next to them that you have to bolt them to flat.
  5. I have already heard from others in the modding community that have ordered the Aliexpress kit and stated that it is the exact same screen as apparently the LCD itself is a pretty common type. They used the same instructions to install the Ali kit as the normal kit and it does work in the exact same fashion. However, they did state that there is some strange buzzing from the audio after installing one of these kits so it would seem there is a ground loop or something the clone kit introduces. Yes it is very disappointing to see this but again, it isn't surprising either as many of these types of things over the past few years have been getting cloned like this. The GDEMU is another and in the case of that device, the clones have become more popular than the originals. You stated the kit is based off your old GG design PCB? I must have the older version then since I looked and even with the pics of your GG board on console5.com, the clone seems to mirror it? If you have a newer version of the GG PCB what is the main difference with the newer PCB?
  6. Well, you might reach out to @PacManPlus because after I did some repairs on his CC2 over the summer, he actually was able to replace the old MMC with a standard SD slot onto his CC2 and it works much better under that format. Also, I believe someone did test a CC2 with a PokeyOne (PMP again maybe?) and confirmed it does work, but won't fit in the cart shell due to the slightly larger overall size of the PK1.
  7. I haven't purchased anything from the guy in Turkey from his website in sometime. Last time I tried, PayPal wouldn't go through giving me some error about my account not being authorized for transaction in that country? I did get a reply from the guy where he told me that PayPal had shut down shop in the county and so no PayPal would work through his website store. But... going through his ebay store would and that is what I've been doing. My only problem with this of course, is that his items in his ebay store cost more this way. So not too surprised your payment was cancelled.
  8. The main problem with anything that requires trimmers to dial in, is that it isn't a good solution for those that provide services to modify consoles for others. Because what I dial in to look good on my AV setup, may not work well for the client. Most of my clients are not the tinkering types. They just want to plug in the console to AV inputs of whatever they've chosen to have and get a picture they expect. This is one of the reasons I'm not able to get much interest in offering the Magic Knight AV boards on the 7800. It produces really good s-video when you dial it in, but again,...it has to be adjusted to your AV display setup to get good results. But it does surprise me that more consistent results is such a challenge in regards to the Intelly 2609 vs later models. I've not done a composite mod to an Intelly III or Super Pro so I don't know the results from those.
  9. What would be nice is if something along the lines of a video encoder replacement would be done similar to the UAV to provide a clean consistent composite and s-video output. I know here are RGB solutions, but I think good clean composite and s-video is more than enough for most older consoles.
  10. I've installed several versions of this kit and haven't noticed the tranny getting hot at all. Only talking +5 here not +12 like what is used on the old Ben Heck CV composite mod.
  11. There are several ways to get premade boards and that is what I usually do. Although I have to admit that the results the 8-bit guy got from his Intelly 2 looked good on his CRT, but he was getting lots of noise and color issues that can be seen from his video capture. And those same issues are seen on modern displays as well. At least from the Intelly 2 those are the results I got. So I really don't think that the Intelly 2 is a good candidate for composite mods. The early 2609 models on the other hand can look really good with a composite AV mod in place. Here are some pre-made boards off ebay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=intellivision+av&_sacat=0 And here are the premade kits from Retrofixes: (I've used these a few times but I do prefer the results I get from the boards from the guy in Turkey). https://store.retrofixes.com/products/intellivision-composite-upgrade-amp-kit-coming-soon?_pos=1&_sid=b8f605627&_ss=r Also I watched the video but David didn't show exactly where he was attaching everything from to his made up board etc? Far as I know, on the Intelly 2 you still get the video and audio from the inputs going into the RF modulator box and grab the +5 and ground from wherever you find it that is convenient off the board.
  12. The inverter is required so you would have to get that replaced. I think I found one laying around in my scraps when it came time to remove my LHE in favor of the UAV. As for the RF being removed..etc. I like to keep it in place when possible. Because you have another means to connect to something should you want or need to. And with these AV mods in place, you can output the video to multiple displays at once if you choose. In my case, I can output via RF to one display or CRT, composite to another, and s-video to a third. It might not be needed for home use, but when I was hosting my own convention here locally, it was handy to have this ability so that people could see what the person was playing without being hovered over them. Also good for use in comparisons and testing video lag when I was going through my AV setup in my game room sometime back.
  13. That passion is required if we want to keep using and playing games on these 40+ year old systems. Near as I can follow in the flowchart, it looks like the RIOT might be more to blame on this...
  14. If you don't plan to use the RF ever again, then you can leave most of the components you removed from the LHE mod off I believe. The UAV and Magic Knight boards attach to the points just before those resistors you removed come into play. But the LHE instructions were never correct on the audio as it told you to attach your audio wire to the bottom of the R5 and R6 resistors. This is incorrect and will result in very low volume to almost no Pokey audio being heard compared to the TIA. Instead, you need to desolder the legs of those resistors off the board nearest the back of the 7800 or North legs as I call them and attach the audio wire to those legs attached together instead. You would be required to put the 74 logic inverter chip back in that you removed in favor of the LHE mod. That is required for the video output to work properly period.
  15. Correct what I was suggestion was strictly to test the socket connection to the IC chip leg. To put it even easier, one probe tip on the top of the IC chip leg and the other end on the bottom of the PCB where that socket pin is soldered to. Could also possibly follow the traces to the next nearest component and see if you get the beep from that component to the top of the IC leg it goes to. Anything further than swapping chips with known good would require schemes at that point to be looked at. But I do think the issue is in the TIA and or RIOT chips. It also looks like the ghost on pac-man isn't able to move properly and unless it was the video, it looks like some of the details on the lower row of cars on frogger were missing the back end of their graphics? YEAP I just looked again. It is obviously a logic chip issue. The turtles aren't showing their complete right side either and the logs are not supposed to be chopped up like that either.
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