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-^CrossBow^-

+AtariAge Subscriber
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About -^CrossBow^-

  • Rank
    Gamer, Collector, & Console Enhancer
  • Birthday 10/26/1974

Profile Information

  • Custom Status
    Collector of Fine Atari and Sega Antiquities!
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ivory Tower, Fantasia (Oklahoma)
  • Interests
    Atari 2600, 5200, 7800, PC games, Sega, Modern games

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  1. Well if you are stuck on only wanting to use an official Atari released controller than the Euro pads are your only option pretty much. If you want really good controller for the NES like usage then I would suggest getting one of the controller from Retrogameboyz. I've now purchased about 3 of his controllers for different systems and been impressed with all of them. I use one of his NES style 7800 controllers as my main 7800 controller in fact. https://www.etsy.com/shop/RetroGameBoyz?ref=usf_2020
  2. The digital version of the game has the DRM code removed from it. I have a 'version' with the code removed on my AtariMax that has been working since @kevtris confirmed it was there after a dump of the original carts was made and the modified ROM sent to me. So I would expect the digital version to work without issues. Even with the ground issues resolved on my CV, the game actually works less than it used to taking multiple attempts to get it to load up properly. I've not actually popped in my actual cartridge of the game in sometime since the modified ROM works on my AtariMax as I stated before. So I just play the game that way since it works reliably under that method. It is a fun game but I've not been able to get past level 2 as yet. I can get through the first level without dying now, but just can't quite figure out what to do on Level 2 yet. I think that unlike the original game this is based on, that there are just the 3 levels in the CV version.
  3. Fractalus looks to be pretty far along as the graphics are essentially all there already and the demo just lacks what I assume is any AI and some of the other controls so that you can actually land, let in the pilots..etc. That could actually be part of the issue now that I think about it, is how the standard controller interface would be done on the 7800? I assume the difficulty switches would be used along with maybe the select or a combo of pressing one of the buttons while moving the controller up/down, perhaps to change the speed etc?
  4. And to make it more confusing, the actual adjustment per the service manual is actually around 112+/- on the HOR reading for a properly calibrated console with the loopback board installed. Actually it comes out to about 112 HOR 116 VRT on most consoles I've calibrated.
  5. I've only got three I can stack, unless I cheat and add my Sears Arcade 2 in there somewhere.
  6. Well as an example pretty much all of the Genesis/Megadrive 2 style RGB SCART cables have the resistors and caps in the SCART housing or use a PCB in the housing with SMD resistors and caps. Because of this, is why when using a Genesis/Megadrive 2 style RGB cable with TMS-RGB, you have to remove he small 75R off the output lines on the TMS-RGB itself and bridge the pads or install 0R in their place. If you don't it will still work, but the overall output is darker than it should be. The +5 is usually needed for when people want to use Rad2X cables or SCART switchers that need the +5 to to be told the signal is present to switch over. That is what the +5 is needed for on mine in most cases but yeah HDRetrovision cables and Rad2X cables require the +5 to power their internal components in the cable. So I guess ultimately, is to just wire it up to match the pinouts of a Megadrive2 AV cable and see what you get.
  7. No, I get the same results as you except that the delays in my AV equipment turning on don't show the plan so when I get an image, I only have the AA logo and no audio. Pause works to put the screen into black and white and then press pause again to bring it back to color. So again, the CPU doesn't appear to halt during this routine. @Muddyfunster just to see if the Pokey addressing has something to do with it, can you remove the pokey side of it just to see if we can get the game to come up? That would at least confirm if the pokey code is actually the issue?
  8. @Shawn ,He was including adamchevy in his reply as being one of the ones curious to know the currrent status. Adamchevy asked the same a few posts up I believe. Either way...agreed that this will be done when it is done and we should all just chill and play the awesome stuff we already have for the 7800 now until these SD carts become available to the masses.
  9. I'm happy to give it a go when I get home from work a bit later.
  10. I know for a fact that I have...well ...a lot of 2600 common dupes I can provide you. Let me look them over and see what I would like to hold back for other stuff and what I can provide but it is enough to make shipping worth it.
  11. The one from the guy in Turkey did produce the best picture for about 2 years. Then I noticed one day that the picture was suddenly darker than I remembered? So I cracked everything open and checked the wiring..etc. It wasn't until I replaced out the AV board that the issue went away so I knew something was up with the actual board I had received from the guy in Turkey. I removed his heat shrink to look things over and found that the caps had leads soldered to them to extend them as it would seem my board was using used caps that had very short leads on them and they were no name brands I wasn't familiar with. I did replace out all of the caps with much higher quality ones I had on hand of the same value..etc and even checked out a few of the resistors that appeared to have drifted out of tolerance but could NOT get it to look the same as it used to no matter what. I now have one of the older Winz mods board installed and looks like it did before with the one from the guy in Turkey. Now I'm sure I had one of his earlier and first revisions of his boards etc, but for the costs of his board and the very thin wire it comes with, I prefer to get one of the others now since in my case, the boards seem to work the same as again as you stated @Lathe26, they are all based on the same initial design that Joe came up with in the Wiki but with slight differences in the resistor values used. The Winzmod board I have installed had all of the SMD resistors reading bang on to exact values so they are or were using at least 1% resistors in their boards whereas most just use the 5%.
  12. Since the 5200 supply will fit just fine that would mean the plug end has to be 2.5x5.5mm in size female.
  13. In my case my 32x allows just enough clearance for JPN MD game carts to fit. If the games happen to have region lock then I flip the switch on the side as needed. But None of these newer releases thus far have actually been region locked as I haven't had to switch out from US mode in I don't know how long. Even original JPN MD games that I own seem to work just fine without the region switch being used.
  14. I have a build of the original 7800 DK that uses Pokey that uses the 48P extension and works. But that is the only rom I have to uses that extension.
  15. Okay so I do get the jet to fly by on the splash screen when I set the rom to 48K ext. Setting it to 48P doesn't change anything and I still get no audio regardless through Mateos.
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