-^CrossBow^-

I've got both an Avox and savekey along with an actual HSC (Although it doesn't keep scores without power). And I've got the 7800GD. I believe my 7800GD has the high score file already on it as I've likely initialized it in the past not long after I got it and played a game or two. So are you needing someone to verify if the Avox and Savekey devices are keeping scores with Popeye then?

There is also this option? https://direct.playstation.com/en-us/trade-in-and-trade-up

I have not tested it but I have the original release from PRGE 2022 and I believe you have updated it since then? I know that version has the original scoring bug on hitting the bottles in stage 2 that you corrected later on.

Not surprised. I had the same happen with an original module PSU for the Genesis. Only that PSU wasn't working at all. When I cracked it open, i found the cap had leaked out everywhere and corroded the solder pads around the leads of the cap. I removed it, cleaned all of the leaked juices off the PCB. Scraped back the solder mask to get to all of it where I could that had leeched within the traces. And then coated the entire thing in a light layer of fresh solder across it. Worked excellent after that.

That might be true but I've only ever gotten the 1.1 and 2.3 to work on my actual consoles. All the others just give a black screen and don't actually load up for me.

I checked the PSU again on my test lab 7800 that still uses a linear voltage regulator in it. TLDR: It seems to have about 2mVpp ripple. The video below shows the setup I had doing this, with the settings set on my o'scope for others to check on their own. The 7800 was powered on with the reading being done just after the main filter cap in the system with the console powered on to provide the expected load. Short vid that shows this in action:

For sure the 1.1 does NOT support the 2port. the diag loop board tests fail on the 2port under that revision, whereas they pass on the 2.3. And likewise when I use the 2.3 on the 4 port, it will fail the loop back testing. So for several years, I've just considered the 1.1 to be for use with the 4 port only and the 2.3 for the 2 port.

Yeap, I've been replacing them out with 4.7 MLCC variants I get from Console5 in bulk. The increased capacitance doesn't effect the operation of the reset circuit in this case in a noticed way so if you have anything from about 1 - 4.7µf, should be good to go.

Okay now that is pretty slick and I think I might have to get one of these to keep up in the lab. Just keep my Intelly adapter in there as I wouldn't have a need to remove it from the printed housing you have made. Have you verified it on the Intellivision 2 models yet? Some of those have pretty tight slots on them where even an LTO can be problematic to insert. Not had an issue with my BBPro since the adapter is much smaller than the opening but just curious if you have tested this on the model 2?

That is PAM rev of the ROM itself. I have a 1.1 that I use for the 4-port systems and a 2.3 I use for the 2-port systems. The 2.3 can be used on the 4 port but the actual port tests generate bogus errors on the loop back test for me while the 1.1 does not on the 4-port console. Not sure what other 4-port BIOS is being mentioned. Far as I know, there are only just the two that were used between the two different models. Even the newer 4-port units made later on with power modifications already on them and the main board revised to work with the VCS adapter still use the same 4-port OS BIOS on them?

Got my twin PSUs in the mail today. They actually read a tad lower putting out only 8.8v on average but that is still enough to activate the regulator and provide a nice +5v still. And... from what my O'scope is telling me, there doesn't appear to be any noise at all from these PSUs. They are a bit tight to get into the plug as it seems they don't really expect you to be unplugging and plugging in the cord that much on the console. But yeah... These be the real deal folks!

You never found a way to buy it because as far as I know HDRetrovision have still not released if officially. But yes, that would be a good option to try for sure. Also I installed my DCDigital myself so I only had the cost of the kit in my case but again, not cheap and it isn't a mod for beginners to tackle due to the pretty fine pitch soldering required on the flex cable.

This was one of the reasons I ended up going with an OSSC setup in my game room. The OSSC has a dedicated VGA input and I initially had the DC connected to this. Eventually, I moved my Extron to that VGA input on the OSSC for all the other consoles that don't have RGB and then ended up installing a DCDigital to get a true HDMI output from my Dreamcast. It is no contest with how crystal clear the DC is through the DCDigital. Even the VGA while looking really good, was never as sharp and clear as the HDMI output from it now. But the DCDigital isn't a cheap solution plus you need to find someone you trust to install it for you. But I'm very glad I invested in mine! BTW the original output is still active and works as it always did. So the HDMI upgrade on the console didn't alter that in any way.

I can understand that. The battery install looks great so I figured you might be able to do the FRAM upgrade as well. It is pretty easy to do. I used 1808 chips because I happen to have a few of those on hand. But if you use an actual 1608 variant, it is just a drop in replacement to solder into place making it one of the easier upgrades to do. I've done it on my CDX and Model 2 SegaCD along with several Saturn consoles. So it is pretty straight forward and I'm happy to assist.

Could have also installed a FRAM upgrade and not need the battery in there ever again...