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About -^CrossBow^-

  • Rank
    Gamer, Collector, & Console Enhancer
  • Birthday 10/26/1974

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  • Custom Status
    Collector of Fine Atari and Sega Antiquities!
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  • Location
    Ivory Tower, Fantasia (Oklahoma)
  • Interests
    Atari 2600, 5200, 7800, PC games, Sega, Modern games

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  1. Only HDRetrovision cables require the composite signal for them to get Sync from. Why they aren't using actual C-sync I have no idea but it is in the FAQs of their website that they aren't using c-sync/sync they require composite sync from a composite signal. I recently ran into this issue with a 32x that I had added s-video to and had to remove the composite from the 32x in order to prevent issues with the s-video that was installed. Then I find out HDretrovision cables don't work and I had to restore the composite video back into the thing using the Genesis composite video input to do it.
  2. Well I can't answer in regards to which cable you have, but I've done this install a few times myself now and it is pretty straight forward. The only thing I have to do different, is that if I'm using HDRetrovision cables, then I have to install a composite upgrade in addition and wire the composite out to the CVID input on the 9-pin mini dins I use. I also have to remove the 75Ω resistors off the output side of the TMS-RGB and then bridge the pads together. It will work with the resistors in place, but has a darker picture than it should. And as I stated, I don't wire anything off the GND output off the TMS-RGB because the entire outer housing of the 9-pin mini dins I use (I get them from Console5) are already attached to the ground on the breakout board I use. I just have to make sure as you did, that I have the center and both sides soldered in place on the breakout board. Solder the outer housing of the mini din to the ground on the CV board and you are grounded about as well as you can get in something like this. Easiest way to test that is to see if you have continuity from the GND off the outer casing from the cable plugged in to anywhere along the outer edge of the CV PCB. I'd guess that the GND pad off the output from the TMS is also attached to ground and you could test that also. But it does look to be a sync issue so again, if you have a composite AV in place as well, try wiring it up to the cvid point on your breakout board. It won't hurt anything and would even allow you to use genesis 2 composite output cables from it also if needed.
  3. Can't really see the TMS board with the way you have the wires routed. And I'm not sure what cable you might be using with your setup. I use a Genesis 2 SCART cable from Insurrection Industries specifically for c-sync on my setup and it works great through my OSSC. I didn't wire a ground from the TMS to the 9-pin because it wasn't needed with the entire housing soldered down to the edge of the PCB like you did. You have the ground tabs soldered onto your breakout board on the connector so again you have the ground covered soldering the entire thing to the PCB. Where did you route the audio from? I just took my audio straight off where C88 but it looks like yours is wrapping back behind and under? But yeah as long as your outer housing on the 9-pin you are using is soldered down to the PCB you very likely have the ground taken care of and don't need a ground wire off the TMS output back to the 9-pin. Wanted to mention that if you removed the 75Ω resistors off the output section on the TMS-RGB and if you already have composite installed. Wire the composite output to the cvid point on your 9-pin and you can use HDRetrovision cables as well as SCART RGB.
  4. On the intellivision side of things, I do think the RF is a better and more consistent image that you get provided your displays are good with the signal. The current composite kits (All of them...) have some differences in how the colors look as the main issue. The overall signal is or should be higher quality compared to RF, but might not be noticed on a CRT as it would on a more modern display.
  5. There are a few of us here that should be able to help you out with this. I'm located in Oklahoma. So if others jump in here and are closer to you, then you have some options.
  6. I can give you a great recent example that has come up. Apparently at least with a UAV installed into either a 2600 or 7800 (I've heard it happening on both consoles), the game Battlezone will apparently jump up and down when the tank is in motion when you view the game through composite or s-vid directly connected to a CRT. But the same thing does NOT happen when playing through RF output. The reason it happens is that the composite/s-vid signal is much stronger than the RF signal was and the programming issues with BZ that cause the screen to jump, aren't being interpreted by the TV through RF whereas it does see the issues in the programming through composite and s-video. However, this effect of the screen jumping even when you are connected directly to a CRT, doesn't happen on all CRTs. I don't see this on my late 90s era JVC I use for color matching and it doesn't happen through my AV equipment in the game room. But Buck rogers title screen goes completely crazy through composite and s-video on my AV setup in the game room, but looks correct on my CRT. It also looks correct through my AV setup in the game room if I connect it via RF output. The rest of the game image is dark and muddy and ugly but the title screen doesn't look like the vertical circuit just took a dump either as it does through composite/s-video. And then there is artifacting. This has more to do with s-video and above signals vs RF or composite. But even on the UAV this is a thing. Jinks and Tower Toppler both use artifacting to make the game graphics look the way they do. On s-video those games suddenly look like they are missing sections in their graphics because the blur from artifacting isn't happening with a stronger and cleaner signal that s-vid and above produce. Even on composite through the UAV tower toppler still looks wrong color wise and I'm not sure why that is. But it is the only game effected by the UAV that does it on both CRTs and flatpanels that I'm aware of. There are many examples of this and I have even posted a few of these examples elsewhere in these forums. Some people prefer the blurred look that the artifacting provides, like the waterfalls in Sonic on the Genesis is always a good example. I don't mind the dither and artifacting being broken on the games when I play them as I favor the increased quality of the overall signal that is provided on the equipment I use to game on.
  7. Let me jump in here and state that on the Intellivison and on one of my CVs the RF looks good. However, I can't use the RF from Intellivisions because while the colors and image look good, I only use flat panel displays for gaming and do NOT use CRTs. I have them on hand for color adjustments on the consoles and that is really all I use them for. EVERY single intellivison that I have worked on across all the variants, will have a constantly jumping image on my flatpanel displays. It isn't playable given how distracting it is. So in the case of the Intellivision, if you plan to play on something other than a CRT, then I would advise at least a composite video upgrade to be done. The composite kits have their issues and you do NOT get consistent results from it, but it does work and at least for me an my clients, provides a stable image that can be used more easily vs RF through CRTs alone. My CV that looks good on RF is a rare beast. And I will say that in all cases of the composite mods I've installed into CVs over the past few years, the composite looked better overall than the RF did on those systems I worked on. Composite and anything better signal wise, will actually bring out the faults of the original signal out more and you see much of what was otherwise hidden through the fuzzy RF that was in place on CRTs. So my stance officially here, is that on some consoles, RF on a CRT will look good for most people and if you plan to stick with a CRT, then RF is likely good enough. If you want to use something more modern, then you will need to go with composite at minimum to start to get better results.
  8. Starting around screen 32, @Thomas Jentzsch new binary will then cut off the right hand side of the first digit '0' and stays that way for the remainder of the game. It is the exact same effect show in post #85 but on the score itself. This is in stella with no TIA options set for glitchy TIA.
  9. -^CrossBow^-


    These are excellent suggestions. I installed sockets on mine as well as apparently I have over 20 of them on hand for some other project in the past. I also had a heck of a time getting those hex screws started to hold down the PCB and was about to get my small tap kit to make that easier but I was able to get them in without having to do so.
  10. I was surprised mine arrived as quickly as it did honestly. During the Holidays, shipping was horribly delayed so I didn't expect it to be as quick as it was. Then the winter hit us finally about 2 weeks ago and that caused another delay in shipping to and out of my area for over a week. It will be worth it when you receive it though!
  11. No idea on mine and I've offered to send it back to Crayon King for analysis, but I think he would rather wait until his next revision is done. That's fine and I plan to order and test it when it does become available. I have Yannick's RGB working for the time being.
  12. Meant to ask, did you connect your +5 and Gnd off the pins from the color IC itself or source them elsewhere on the system? I attached ground from mine along the side of the PCB where the ground runs all along it, and sourced my +5 directly after the Ferrite bead of the +5 from the power ribbon cable. I also put the resistors back in and nothing. The best I was able to manage after some rework was a very dark image that I could just barely make out was the controller test screen from my 201 test cart. I'm waiting on Crayon King to finish up his next revision to give it a try. If you have it working on the Tink2x and Rad2x, that gives hope it would work through HDRetrovision cables and that in turn, should work on the OSSC. Granted it requires using HDRetrovision cables but something perhaps. Only think with HDR cables is that they require composite sync and do NOT use C-sync or Sync. I already attempted to connect up the composite output from my composite upgrade installed in the system but that didn't produce anything as again, the sync signal to begin with isn't really there in a useful way. Composite seems to not need it but that could also be why Composite output produces inconsistent results when used.
  13. BTW @Thomas Jentzsch that second screen shot showing the large 02. That 4 digit at the end is exactly what I was seeing on my 7800 during my game plays. I didn't see the other stuff with the timer bar though. Only the score digits. But that '4' has the exact extra pixel I was talking about previously. So that is why my 7800 has the slightly buggered looking score on the last digit? I know my TIA is one of the ones that if you don't keep a controller plugged into both ports, than 2 player auto start games like Xenophobe, will start up a second player automatically after about 20min of being turned on. I hadn't really don't anything about this since it would require replacing the TIA and those are starting to get in more limited supply. So leaving the TIA in mine since it seems to work fine otherwise, seemed to best solution to me. I do have access to a few other TIAs I can pull and try but would rather have them on hand for actual consoles with bad TIA chips that come to me first.
  14. That's a really cool idea! I only have about 86 games in total on my Rhea however, as that is all I own in my physical library. So it hasn't been that big a deal to just have all of my games in Alpha order. I only have a few pages to scroll through anyway to find the game I want to play. But I might play with this idea a bit someday if I add to my library of games or decide to organize them differently.
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