Jump to content

-^CrossBow^-

+AtariAge Subscriber
  • Content Count

    10,422
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2,862 Excellent

About -^CrossBow^-

  • Rank
    Gamer, Collector, & Console Enhancer
  • Birthday 10/26/1974

Profile Information

  • Custom Status
    Collector of Fine Atari and Sega Antiquities!
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ivory Tower, Fantasia (Oklahoma)
  • Interests
    Atari 2600, 5200, 7800, PC games, Sega, Modern games

Recent Profile Visitors

29,259 profile views
  1. There is only 1 game that uses the Yamaha module. @PacManPlus's Pac-Man 40th Anniversary collection. The rest is so far only demos and proof of concepts that make use of the COVOX, Dual Pokey...etc. But naturally all of the official released games work as do all the of the homebrews that have ROM releases.
  2. Why be worried about solder on the +5 and GND? I actually do that anyway even when I'm not using the pads to help prevent corrosion to those pads should they be needed in the future. Look at my pic I posted and you will see that there is solder on the +5 and GND as well. Jumpering R2 and R3 was to restore signal that would have gone through the 4050 but is broken when you remove it. Again, that was only needed if you removed the 4050. Or at least, that is what Bryan originally wrote up in his 5200 instructions at the time. He decided with all the issues that removing the 4050 was causing in some instances (Like I was reporting on the systems I was trying it with), that it would be best to leave it. But to keep the installations simple, he was going to redesign the UAV to have a 4050 encorporated within it that could be used as needed for installs like the 5200. Basically with the 4050 on the UAV already, you would use a different jumper configuration to pass the signals through the new 4050. This way, you could remove the original 4050 and just plug the UAV into the old 4050 socket without worry in regards to breaking the RF etc... But this design change never came to pass. About 2 years ago I submitted mockup design changes to MacRorie with additional vias inline so that you could easily solder the 4050 onto the UAV without worrying about the pin headers you also needed to have soldered. Basically it was a slightly longer UAV to allow for soldering in the pin headers, and then allow for soldering in the 4050 on top afterwards. Still some tight spaces to get an iron into, but it would have made it something easy to add as needed. Now there is another need to have had that 4050 in place as it relates to the 7800 and using a 4050 to fix timing on the chroma signals from the MARIA IC. So it would have been cool if he could have designed that into place and it would have had several uses depending on how things were jumpered to configure the UAV.
  3. All of the composite mod kits I've installed seem to behave differently depending on the TV being used. Retrofixes like you have, will sometimes cause a slight curl or tear in the screen on my PVM on the bench. Looks fine on my large flat panel in the game room but ONLY if I connect the composite directly to the composite input on the TV. When I connect it to my Extron composite input, it is much darker and will show some ghosting off of text etc. I had one client that the ONLY composite kits that work for them are the ones sold by Winzmod off ebay or at least that is where I got them from. I've had better luck lately as far as consistency with various TVs using the kits from Mobius.
  4. Well, I've been considering removing the 4-port video from my channel. Reason being is that the 2-port video is better quality wise and, the exact same process I go through on the 2-port will work on the 4-port as well. I know this because ever since that 2-port video I've been using that method. The ONLY difference being that I do NOT install the 4050 on top of the UAV. I just leave it on the mainboard and solder the included socket with the kit to the top of the 4050. This way, there isn't any chance of damage to the 4050 traces on the mainboard, RF will still function properly and the UAV works as well. The jumper for R2 and R3, was ONLY needed if you removed the 4050. But again, I could never get that to work for me properly so I do not even mess with that. The basic steps I follow is literally this: 4-port / 2-port: 1. - remove 4050 from socket (if no socket then I leave the 4050 in place) 2. - desolder original 4050 socket (if one is present) 3. - solder 4050 directly to the main board (unless it is already like on many 2 port units) 4. - solder new socket on top of 4050 5. - solder jumpers to required spots on the UAV using clipped leads from other components. (I do NOT even bother to install that header bock or the jumpers since I don't plan to use the UAV in anything else) 6. - solder green terminal block on top side of output section on UAV. (You could install it on the bottom but it makes is more difficult to tighten the screws down doing this) 7. - clean flux residue on bottom of UAV board from previous soldering 8. - using a section of perfboard, I solder on the pin headers to the UAV. Short side of the pins go through the vias on the UAV. 9 - clean flux residue from the top side of the UAV from previous soldering 10. - plug UAV into the socket that was soldered previously on top of the 4050 11. - solder color in wire from bottom leg of R17 (Connects to pin 21 on GTAI) to Col in on UAV (right most connection on output of green terminal block) 11. - test everything works using test wiring connected to s-video and RCA jacks 12. - install s-video and RCA jacks 13. - install wiring from s-video and RCA jacks 14. - attach to output on green terminal block from UAV 15. - solder one lead a 2k resistor to the + lead of 10µf 16v or greater capacitor 16. - solder a section of wire from the other lead of the 2k resistor 17. - solder the other end of the wire from the resistor to the top leg of R50 near the center right of the mainboard just near the RF shield ground plane 18. - solder the wire from your RCA jacks for audio (or whatever jack you are using ) to the - lead of the 10µ capacitor 19. - Enjoy wonderful composite and s-video goodness from your 5200! But I also outlined these steps in more detail in my actual pdf guides that are linked in the video descriptions. https://tinyurl.com/vy6ldg6
  5. You are talking about Bryan's original install guide ehh? He states you jumper r2 and r3 if you remove the 4050, but again, I could NEVER get his original instructions to work for me the way they were written. You can remove the 4050 and loose RF output and have video from the UAV only at that point. Or, you can solder a socket on top of the 4050 as I did, leaving it in circuit and then attach the UAV on top of the 4050 and have both RF and the UAV video output. Those are the only two options I've gotten to work. Show what you have installed so far so I have a better understanding of what you have in place and can answer your questions better.
  6. Just have to remember to reinstall the 4050 in the future if you want or need the RF. Here is one I just installed 10 min ago into a 2port model. I solder the socket directly on top of the 4050 and then snap the assembled UAV right into the socket.
  7. Ahh but see I like to keep the Rf intact whenever possible and I prefer something doesn't require removing anything off the board to use it. The UAV is that. Additionally, the LHE design boards of which one is still being sold on Ebay under Winzmod is still more expensive than the UAV cost wise and doesn't produce nearly as good of a result.
  8. The 4050 is only needed to keep the RF intact. However on my 4 port daily driver, I couldn't get it come up at all without the 4050 in it. So I've been leaving the 4050 in place ever since and never had an issue with it. But I solder the socket on top of the 4050. If the 4050 is in a socket, then I actually remove it from the socket, desolder the original socket. Then solder the 4050 to the mainboard. That keeps everything low profile enough for me to put the Rf shielding back on. If you don't care about the RF shielding, then you can just solder a socket on top of the 4050 an leave the 4050 in the socket it was in originally. But the stability of the whole thing sitting that tall is bit how you doing as Dave Jones would say. My guess is that something isn't making a good connection from the UAV to where it slots into the 4050s location. Or you have a weak solder joint on he UAV itself somewhere and installing and removing the 4050 from it might have been the cause.
  9. Yeah well we provide 24/7 service for several of our customers so again, we would always have to have some amount of people on hand to cover. That means they have to allow vaca whenever it is requested and doesn't conflict with projects that person is involved with or with other time off requests. At my last place of business, due to how many employees we had and that we all had 4 weeks of paid vacation time. We had to actually schedule out our vacation time nearly 2 years in advance! If you didn't, you could only carry over 1 week and the rest you just lost out on. It is still that way at my current job and I will be the first to admit, I've let most of my earned vacation time go to waist over the past 10+ years.
  10. I'm confused...you mean you ripped traces on the UAV board itself or on the 5200 board where the 4050 was soldered in place? If it was the traces on the UAV, then none but @MacRorie has access to the actual schematics of the UAV as he owns the rights to it. If you are talking about the 4050 soldering on the 5200 mainboard, the schematics should help to determine which leg of the 4050 went to where to patch it with trace wire. BTW from Bryan's original blog entry on installing the UAV into the 5200 there is this... "Solder the 16-pin socket on top of the 4050. It is only necessary to solder pins 1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9 and 11. Soldering pin 16 is probably a good idea as well just to secure all corners of the socket. With a reasonably small iron tip, you should be able to work between the 4050 and the Antic chip behind it." However, I solder them all down when I do them just to keep the entire thing as secure as possible. The latest kits actually came with machine pin sockets. I don't normally like those, but it makes since in the case of the UAV since the pin headers you solder on are round pin anyway.
  11. I've not heard that before? It wouldn't be practical to hold the employees at most of the companies I've worked for to only allow vaca during those few months because with most of the employees having as much as 4 weeks a year awarded for vacation time, but then only allowing no more than 2 weeks to be taken consecutively in a single quarter...well. You get the idea. Basically everyone would have to take their vacations at the same time and pretty much have to close the place down.
  12. I think I might be on Bradley's do not serve list so finding out that retrosix made their own replacement mylar for the Lynx II was excellent and I ordered up a few to make it worth it for me.
  13. I've only ordered their replacement lynx II mylars but that order arrived quickly and I've installed a few of their LCD kits into Game Gears that my clients ordered from them. So yes, they have good products. Never replaced the lens on the Lynx I, but I'm assuming it is just a plastic silkscreened sheet and can be popped out from inside. Then you would use some mineral spirits or something similar to remove any left over adhesive from the plastic and then apply the replacement cover. That is basically what I do on the Game Gear and GBA.
  14. Hmm... then it could be to his benefit in regards to having it for testing E.X.O.
  15. Interesting... was the Rockwell CPU purposely wanted in the case of this one? This is the one going to Muddy for having an NTSC machine to test with yes?
×
×
  • Create New...