Jump to content

-^CrossBow^-

+AtariAge Subscriber
  • Content Count

    8,724
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,874 Excellent

6 Followers

About -^CrossBow^-

  • Rank
    Gamer, Collector, & Console Enhancer
  • Birthday 10/26/1974

Profile Information

  • Custom Status
    Collector of Fine Atari and Sega Antiquities!
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ivory Tower, Fantasia (Oklahoma)
  • Interests
    Atari 2600, 5200, 7800, PC games, Sega, Modern games

Recent Profile Visitors

26,591 profile views
  1. Just ordered 2 for testing here at the ITC internally. Really cool to see these assembled boards available.
  2. That interesting information as I wasn't aware of that issue. I've mentioned it several times before but my original connection setup in my game room was that I had an older JVC SX-J700 av switcher. It only took in composite and s-video but I could connect up to 8 different systems to it at once. And this produced decent results but I did have to change the aspect on my TV all the time since the converter didn't have an option for 4:3 or 16:9 and stretched everything to 16:9. Also I couldn't get the converter to work at 1080P output through my AV receiver and could only run it at 720P. So something about the 1080P signal on that converter wasn't quite to spec I guess? I've taken some of that out of the mix with the JVC replaced out now with my Extron 7SC and an OSSC that everything eventually plugs into and then the HDMI output from that goes into my AV receiver without issue. I've thought about getting a Tink2x to play with but I honestly just don't need one for my everyday setup and use. Anyone have a Tink2x Pro that can comment on this? Also, I believe @blainelocklair is using a Tink2x with his systems connected to an AV receiver and out to a 4k TV without issues? But he would need to jump in here to clarify that.
  3. I'm more than happy to check it out and see? I did change out the 10k trimmer in my MK to a 5k trimmer that allows for a little easier dialing in but again it can be touchy. Get it looking good on an LCD only to find out on a different TV the signal goes caddywampus and it goes out of sync. It is similar for a UAV as I have my personal daily driver 7800 with a UAV in it as well I can use for testing.
  4. I thought my posting of run through vids wasn't appreciate by those that wanted the game to be more of a surprise? In fact, I even stated in a post that I wouldn't post any more vids of my play through on the game and would just post the single pics. Yeah, that wasn't intended but I was pretty happy with my time overall on that run. I died several time and grabbed all the potions and hearts minus the secret potion. Usually you don't see me in the screen reflected when I take these pics but this time the lighting was just so that...well..there I am!
  5. If shipping weren't so crazy expensive, I'd be happy to send out my test NTSC unit that has a magic knight board in it currently, but I didn't actually wire any RCA jacks etc on it and it just has pin headers soldered to the ouputs to connect temporary RCAs/s-video jacks to it. However, the MK and UAV use the exact same video taps on NTSC machines. The only difference is that the extra resistors and filter caps for audio are included on the MK board so you don't have to add those in manually as we do on NTSC machines if we want to retain the RF modulator.
  6. @sramirez2008 did you backtrack through the levels on that run? I've not done that but do wonder why that one room shortly before the rock boss has you activate the spring boards on it at the end?
  7. No I don't own a capture device. The video comparison for Rikki & Vikki shown above was done with my camcorder aimed at my LED flatpanel TV. Some of my still pics I've taken using my Nikon on a tripod aimed at the same LED flatpanel. As for the LHE drawing more current in a 7800. Anytime you add more components into the system that aren't powered from an external supply, they will draw a little more current from the entire system to keep them powered up. But you can correct some of this by using a larger output voltage regulator. A new 1A output regulator would be fine for most using their 7800s with an AV mod. I put 2A output regulators into mine and most of my clients systems. Now even though the regulators can provide up to 2A of current along their +5 output, you are still going to be limited by the actual power adapter you are using. The LHE always looked good on a CRT which, is what you guys are comparing your screens from. But on a modern flat panel display, the LHE can turn ugly real quick.
  8. I hadn't gotten through the last beta 8 but I did just get through beta 9. This is really coming along and I like the new color schemes that have been used! Looks great on my AV setup through my 7800 although I have the game paused for the pic below.
  9. If anyone is curious...here is what the current draw from a 7800 with a UAV running the same integrity test through my Mateos cart with a Traco 2A rated 2-2450 installed.. Yeap, that is reading right at 300ma as opposed to the linear VR.
  10. You know I actually don't run my bench at 9v when testing 7800s. I simulate the same input voltge that original does so I tend to have mine set around 12v on the input. That might account for the higher amperage reading since the VR having to waste more out as heat and looses further efficiency in the process. My bench supply might be a bit off kilter too but it should be pretty close. You should take those same readings from a 7800 with a DC-DC buck converter installed...hehe. Old pic from a few months ago but here is what my bench supply reads from a stock 7800 running the integrity test through Mateos with Pokey installed. As you can see on my supply is it just over 700ma and I was guessing about 720ma or so. On the pic below, the current is in High mode so the top scale is what you use as my supply goes up to 3A output.
  11. I'm just sorry I didn't jump on the initial release for these as since then I've had likely every variant of the 7800 known come past my hands I could have tested with using the Rev's Utility. In fact I use that utility now and the integrity test for burn in testing on systems both before and after video upgrades. Speaking on this, the 7800 stock configuration with a Pokey cart like Commando running will draw about 720ma to power the entire system. When you add in a UAV that might add take it to about 730ma. I'm sure other mods etc would be similar. Point is, some of the issues might be resolved by replacing out the factory voltage regulator and replacing it with a new 1amp or better, 2amp output variant to ensure there is enough power to the system at all times. @batari do you know how much current draw the current Concerto requires on a stock system? Again, without having one of these myself for testing I'm just thinking out loud. I've also noticed that many revisions of the 7800 use different speed RAM in them as well to say nothing about that extra timing circuit in the mix.
  12. You changed the timings on some of the rooms?! Ack!!! LOL yeah I have to relearn some new stuff because I was dying left and right due to the changes in timings on some of the rooms compared to how they have been on the last 7 betas.
  13. The repairs I did was to replace one of the buffer chips on PMPs CC2 using a breakout board to better solder connections to. The other 2 were conversions from MMC to SD slots and card readers. Turns out you just need to get an SD slot that will fit and the pins from the MMC slot pads on the CC2 will match up where needed for the SD slot to be used instead. You do have to widen the opening on the CC2 case to allow for the wider SD card and slot, and you need to scrape away some solder mask on the CC2 to solder the SD slot to for additional support and ground. But no real issues to simple swap them over to SD cards. So the issue with the MMC cards being a pain is legit, but also fixable by installing SD slot readers in their place. However, in my testing on this, there was a limit in that I could only get 2gb SDcards to work. Anything larger didn't register and it had to be FAT16 formatted as I recall.
  14. The main issue with devices like these is that they introduce a large amount of additional lag in the video signal due to the conversion and that is added ontop of the lag your TV would also be adding to the mix. The best solution that would look the best, would be to invest into a composite AV mod (or S-video even better) on your 5200. Then get something like the retrotink2x which, takes the composite or s-video signals from the console and line doubles them to a resolution that most modern TVs can handle on HDMI. This way no additional lag is introduced in the video signal so what you do on the controller will better match the action in real time on the display and the only lag to worry about then, is the lag your TV causes to create the digital signal from the HDMI interface. Many of these cheaper composite to HDMI devices also may not have an aspect correction switch on them so all the games end up getting stretched out widescreen and look he worse for it. Especially on older consoles like the 5200, 2600..etc. Another option is to spend more money and look into getting a Sophia mod installed into your 5200. That can provide you with a DVI output which can then easily be converted to HDMI with a simple adapter. But I've heard not all displays are compatible with the output from a Sophia board so there is that.
  15. Well, there are a few places where you going left is much easier than going right was. Here are a few spoilers that might help you: The water screens can be tricky..but there are a few tips: I've not revealed where the secret potion is on the above spoiler so no worries there. Then again, for what it actually gives you, I'm not sure it is worth the effort once you are so far into the rooms.
×
×
  • Create New...