Taijigamer

VGA would still need RGB analogue conversion which may still suffer horizontal shift on some monitors. I tried to get VGA on my computer monitor but it couldn't display 240p :-( HDMI would be good but u would need to program the FPGA to upscale to 480p minimum and add a pixel clock to facilitate the increased resolution(s). Creating a menu overlay screen would be cool, like UltraHDMI N64, to select different functions. This guy has successfully converted MVS to HDMI and documents the individual challenges https://github.com/charcole/NeoGeoHDMI/blob/master/Notes.md

The good thing about Colecovision is they used standard IC (no proprietary part afaik). So as long as the pcb is free from corrosion and bad traces, u can always repair/ restore it. Some people have actually removed all IC and replaced with sockets to allow easy replacement of dead IC in future. Part of the fun is coming up with solutions to their poor design choices.

Sounds like the laser is getting weak. Consider replacing it. Sanyo 92.5f lasers used in German car stereos are apparently suitable replacements. U want the short lead ones. The long lead ones are incompatible apparently. The other option is to tweak the laser pot.

Picture of the motherboard would be useful to assess the level of cleaning/ repair needed.

Have u replaced all electrolytic caps on the psu? Maybe the laser is faulty and causing a short. Try a new laser. If u still get issues, maybe another component on the psu (5V, 9V regulator?). Check the board for any oxidisation between pins, dry joints.

Use this page from the service manual for tips http://www.colecovisionzone.com/photos/coleco/colecovision%20tech4.pdf. Check for activity from the VRAM pins on the TMS9928 (U9). Most likely VRAM as you said or a bad 9928.

I agree. I don't worry about Wii or GameCube games as they are still readily available through various sources. Nes, Snes and N64 carts are not as abundant and the retro revival has put prices up. I like to maintain original hardware and play on original platforms so the new minis don't interest me. My issue is with the overall attitude of Nintendo, not with EP flaking out. They like to assert dominance regardless of whether it affects their profits. They regularly attack home brew projects even if they are based on games over 20 years old. It's pointless attacking rom sites as there will always be a way to find roms.

Nintendo products.

Sad times. Emuparadise should have made a point of removing only Nintendo Roms. Why should the community suffer completely for their draconian decision making. Nintendofail. Time to boycott.

That's an impressive selection of video games consoles. It's great to see that u have become more familiar with the various video signal and video connector standards. I'm obviously going to reiterate the caution previously mentioned about modding a CRT Tv for RGBS. This should only be undertaken by an experienced CRT Tv technician. This is more for other readers of this thread as u have already stated your intentions. As I'm sure u are starting to realise, it's not so much the connector but the video standard that it transmits. As you are already going to the trouble to install a new video receiving connector, u could use any connector to your choosing rather than a clunky 21 pin SCART. For example, a 8 pin din, 9 pin d-sub etc. Of course using a 21 pin SCART would save u the trouble of rolling your own cables. Most of your consoles already output RGBS. The others can be modded to do so. The ones that already output YPrPb, I would stick with that as it can output up to 480p/ 720p whereas RGBS maxes out at 240p/ 480i (I avoid interlace where possible.) Despite some opinions, using Component (either YPrPb or RGBS) is preferable as there is less chance of colour bleed and blurred edges in the output picture compared to S-video or CVBS.

This gets me right in the feels. Knowing what I know now, I would have kept all my games and consoles. I lost a model 1 mega drive with 32X, 2 x Sinclair Spectrum 128k, a ps1 and N64 to the void. I sold it gave away a lot of my mega drive and ps1 games in a move towards emulation and modern gaming. Now prices have rocketed and it's not as easy to re-buy everything. I have started to rebuild my hardware and hard copies again in a bid to reconnect with my childhood (mid life crisis looming). I have a megadrive model 2 with 32X and Mega CD, 3DO and Dreamcast from the pre 2000 era in my collection now. Still need to get a Colecovision, Saturn and Jaguar, and re-buy a Spectrum 128k. I would also mod my consoles for optimum video/audio out and any other enhancements.

YCbCr refers to the digital format. YPbPr refers to the analogue format. As previously said, when talking about video games consoles, YPbPr is used. Digital YCbCr is probably only seen in industry use, ie filming, medical imaging etc. Our medical monitors used for key hole surgery have all the inputs (RGBS, YCrCb, RGBHV, DVI, HDMI) in individual BNC connector format (except DVI and HDMI).

FML. https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/app-notes/index.mvp/id/1184 http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/composite-video-vs-composite-sync Please read these before commenting further. If u have an issue with the US consumer TV industry for not supporting RGB, take it up with them. Everything else has already been mentioned adnauseum.

That product is probably good for a cheap option but it only upscales CVBS and S-Video. When we refer to Frameister and OSSC we are looking at upscaling Component video (be it Y,Cb,Cr or RBGS/HV) for best possible picture quality. The OSSC is a good product from my point of view. Half the price of Frameister, open source, well supported and offers many input options (Scart, Component, VGA). It also offers a lot of settings to get the maximum picture quality out of your favourite consoles.

Yurkie and citruspsi3000 mods both take Y, R-Y, B-Y signals directly from the VDP and convert them into RGBS using timing pots, op-amps and discretes. The designs are based on this application note http://spatula-city.org/~im14u2c/vdp-99xx/e3/SPPA004A_9928-29_9118-28_Interface_to_Monitors.pdf There isn't a complete IC based mod available yet. Check out citruspsi3000 RGB mod, comes as a diy kit, easy to install and it's better supported.

The Colecovision TMS9928 VDP naturally outputs a type of Y, B-Y, R-Y (Y, Cr, Cb). This thread https://www.classic-computers.org.nz/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=960&sid=94cad79b4533d005683a0ce186363544explains a few different ways to transmit that to a TV over Component video. For a ready made solution check out citruspsi3000 RGB mod http://atariage.com/forums/topic/274474-new-coleco-rgb-board/ This should solve your B/W picture problem.

Running a component signal (Y, Cr, Cb or RGBS) into an old CRT is fine as it is expecting 240p or 480i. But running the same signal into a HDTV doesn't work as well because the Tv needs to upscale the 240p/480i feed into 1080p. Most HDTVs don't do this very well. This is why the OSSC and Frameister are a must for retro consoles on HDTV.

Composite will look crap through newer digital TVs. Especially consoles which output 240p natively. U can get RGBS cables for those consoles or, if u live in a country where RGBS isn't common then u can get a OSSC or Frameister (recommended) to turn RGBS into upscaled HDMI for your TV.

Amazing work, Boojakascha. Well done. Finally a solution that will allow people to run Japanese kanji games and arcade games on their own 3DO.

Cords for rf output? Savage.

If it's on dash 7371 then definitely jtag it. Instaboot every time.

You're welcome =) Glad u got it sorted.

Use sheet 6 of the Colecovision service manual to help troubleshoot the issue. http://www.colecovisionzone.com/photos/coleco/colecovision%20tech4.pdf. Check 5V on pin 16. Check that pin 5 & 6 go low when playing game. Check pin 14 for clk signal. It may be a bad sound chip. This thread details a similar issue. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/214438-colecovision-no-sound-problem-help/

U can also RGB mod your CDi for maximum picture quality. This will also solve your B/W picture issue. http://retrorgb.com/cdi.html

I thought the kanji rom needs to assigned to 'Font ROM' and then a known bios rom used for Bios, in phoenix. Maybe the same for SAOT. Phoenix may treat anything from ROM2 as the 'FONT ROM'.