boggis the cat

Based on that spec sheet, I think that you need a P230 2 F x 25 B R10K. The x is ‘doesn’t matter’, as the Atari paddles have no particular required end stops. To be sure, compare it with my Bourns potentiometer. The bushing length (the 2 above) is fairly critical, so double-check it. The Bourns is 10 mm, this has either 9.5 mm or 11 mm, so I have selected the 9.5 mm — but it may be best to measure the existing one and choose the best fit. You will have to grind down the flat further to fit the knob, or modify the knob. Unfortunately they don’t seem to make the half-flatted type of pots any more that are in the original paddles.

No, I don’t think so. That message appears spuriously when an original paddle is attached and not turned very close to fully anti-clockwise. The firmware is the same, so I guess it has that message built in regardless. The wireless joysticks are not terrible but also not that good. You can use wired joysticks along with the wireless to get to menus etc. which is useful. (Unfortunately, not any sort of standard wireless arrangement so not easy to attach a better joystick.)

If you install the one attached here, you are then able to install the ‘official’ firmware to patch a couple of issues and retain the functionality of the firmware here.

I had the same issue. Putting a zero at the end of the UID worked for me.

I just installed this. Everything still works OK. One issue is that my ID number was only 15 digits long instead of 16. That prevented registering. I just put a zero on the end, and it accepted it.

If a stand were used for the base then it could have the option to add a cabinet around it i.e. include suitable threaded holes for attaching a cabinet. A buyer could then decide whether they want the arcade-style base of the cabinet or not. The same 'C' bracket approach could be used as a base for a 'cocktail' cabinet design in future, possibly reducing manufacturing cost. If the design doesnt allow for omitting the base entirely, to get a counter-top design, that should be considered. Some customers may prefer that for various reasons. There are always going to be trade-offs between cost and design flexibility (and look). Possibly a 'standard' and 'deluxe' option with different cabinet styles could be offered. It really comes down to what the retailers believe they can sell, of course.

Why not try a design with metal feet? Two reinforced 'L' brackets could form the base, then put the controls and monitor on it. Or consider the design of the 'C' shaped stands you get for some (musical) keyboards as a base. There are a lot of options that could greatly reduce the shipping volume and still require minimal assembly by the customer.

You could add the required direction combinations to generate those special button presses by modifying a joystick, or adding a pass-through with buttons wired for the combinations. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/287000-flashback-9-special-buttons/ (I am waiting on parts to do a modification on an existing joystick.) Also, the P2 wireless controller can be made into a P1 version (or vice versa) with a little effort. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/286601-atari-flashback-9-gold-wireless-joystick-disassembly/

You can modify a joystick to get those buttons, or use a pass-through with the buttons on it. This is the list of options: MENU = UP + DOWN SELECT = LEFT + RIGHT REWIND = LEFT + RIGHT + UP START = UP + DOWN + LEFT These only work for joystick port 1 (left). You could add these functions to an existing joystick by wiring additional buttons to make the required connections.

You only replace the pot. The original can be soldered back in. Its non-destructive and reversible. I would suggest that you mod non-working or glitchy paddle controllers as they're likely to have worn out pots anyway. Also, I have just been fiddling about to see if it's possible to get the standard 1MOhm pots to work by putting additional capacitance in the circuit, but have had no luck at all with this. The traces from the ports disappear into the microcontroller, so without a lot more effort it seems replacing the pot is the way to go. Or not, if you prefer complaining about a fixable problem.

You have to swap out the 1MOhm linear potentiometer for a 10KOhm linear type. It does require soldering, and likely some modification of the new potentiometer shaft if you want to use the original knobs. So it isn't trivial, but it also isn't a huge issue. If Atgames never get the paddles out, perhaps someone with stocks of the original paddles would be willing to modify them for a Flashback 9 compatible option?

You have to realise that Atgames are under pressure to meet certain retail price points. They aren't going to gain anything from going down the path of more 'optional' controllers, and they're wary of getting into the Atari computers due to licensing issues with games (let alone the hardware issues, given that you have an entire keyboard). How would you sell this idea to retailers? Like last year’s model, but with some obscure additional platforms and a light gun - oh, and a big hike in the cost. Better for Atgames to make something like 'The 64' for the computer line and sell it direct to that market. The 7800 and 5200 could possibly be handled similarly, but the costs would be much higher than for the mass-market Flashback models.

Modify existing paddle controllers, or wait until Atgames make theirs available. It’s an inconvenience, but can be surmounted if you really want working paddles.

Well, one that was released. Hardly a good reason to produce a light gun for a 2600 based Flashback. How many games across the entire Atari product line used a light gun? Would it exceed ten? (Including the computers as well as the XE.)

It would have to be extremely cheap to make a viable add-on to something like the Flashback range. There isnt anything on the 2600 that uses a light gun, so it isnt relevant unless you also want 7800 ports - then that requires new controllers with the extra button... It starts to add up, and in the end who will buy it? The retailers want an 'impulse buy' price level, and dont care about much beyond that.

Just be aware that you have to break through the label on the underside to remove the centre screw, and obviously 'tampering' with the product means you lose your warranty. I don't know what that button does, but if it is a reset then it could work one of three ways: hold it down when off to clear the power to non-volatile RAM, hold it down when powering on to reset some defaults, or press it after boot to reset to defaults in some way. Without knowing exactly what it does or the correct operation you'll be taking a risk of 'bricking' the device entirely. I would try pressing it down for a few seconds with power off first, then try booting up to see if anything changed. Next I would restart the machine, then wait until it has booted up and press the button to see what happens (if anything). Last option would be holding it down while applying power. The last is the most probable way to wipe the system, and thus 'brick' the device.

Did you see the thing with red LEDs in it? That is providing pulses that allow the light gun to work. If that isn’t sitting in front of your digital TV and connected up you won’t get anything happening as there is nothing for the light gun to ‘see’ and thus allow the game to figure out what part of the screen it is pointing at. Old video games (like the 7800) relied on the CRT scan operation to work correctly. What you really have with a CRT is a bright dot that starts at the top left, moves to the right across the screen lighting phosphors, then turns off and there is a slight delay while it repositions to start far left again but one scanline down. When it reaches the bottom of the picture (the last scanline) there is a delay while it repositions back to the top of the CRT. An old light gun works by detecting that bright dot, and signals the video game (or computer) when it detects it. The video game then knows where the light gun is pointing. The delay between drawing each scanline is the ‘horizontal blank’ and the delay between ending the screen draw and restarting is the ‘vertical blank’. The 2600 can only do game calculations during those blanks as the rest of the time the microprocessor has to feed data to the chip that draws the picture. So far as I am aware, the 2600 can’t use a light gun due to being busy when the gun would be signaling that the dot had appeared. (Maybe it’s possible by using a synchronised light gun and sending a coded signal giving the position when ‘requested’ by the 2600 — turn a light gun into a keypad that sends a code, essentially.)

Is a driving controller supported in Stella? If it doesn’t work in Stella, then it likely can’t be made to work.

I used a Sandisk 16 GiB in my Flashback 9 Gold with no issues so far. It seems like the initial update process for ‘Bane_Masters’ broke somehow.

It’s a known bug. You might want to look at updating to the firmware that allows you to load games from the SD Card, then put a copy of the original Atari 2600 Space Invaders on that. (The built-in one is a custom version.)

Going by eye, it looks like it should fit. The knob is quite a bit smaller than the original, but should be OK. The Bourns pots I bought turned up a couple of days ago. They are very smooth action, so a smaller knob shouldnt be a big issue.

You can modify existing paddles, if that would be an option you would look at. The 1 MOhm potentiometer must be replaced with a suitable 10 kOhm one. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/284795-flashback-9-gold-paddle-issue/?p=4198242

I’m not sure if your design can do this, however you may be able to add code for calibration. Hold down a combination of buttons that sets the micro to calibration mode, then move the joysticks to their maximum travel in each axis. Hold down the button combination again to exit, and/or exit based on a time-out. A sanity check on the read joystick values before using them would be a good idea. It should only be required once if you use the same controller.

The most recent Stella manageable would be an obvious desire. Maybe look at licensing more Homebrews (and even demos) that make use of the emulated special chips. A way to get at the TIA sound might be interesting to some people. The 2600 has a distinctive soundscape. (Maybe add a headphone jack to the Flashback, to make that access easier and also assist with quiet gaming.) The paddle issue was a bit of a failure. I assume it was a supply chain problem. It isnt hugely difficult to modify the older paddles, but it is not something many customers would be interested in doing. (On the other hand, I guess that opens up an avenue for the custom joystick builders. Atgames screwup can be their gain.)

Possibly they could, but then the paddles won’t work well — the complaint with earlier Flashbacks. Atgames decided on a hardware solution, and unfortunately opted for a new (incompatible) paddle.