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Trellot

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About Trellot

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  1. That is true regarding the initial anchoring. I think I'll try this then, hopefully this weekend! What would you say about straight metal tape, not copper? I have a roll of that, but can get the copper if that will work better? ~ Trellot
  2. Thanks guys for the comments. I've thought using metal tape before, but always worried about it possibly lifting at some point; could be worth a try though. ~ Trellot
  3. ChildOfCv, What solder pad repair kit, in my case with this old Atari 2600 issue, would you recommend for me? I've looked for this before and nothing ever seems to be what I think I need lol! Thanks for any suggestions should you have any. ~ Trellot
  4. Thanks fellas for the ideas. I'll report more on this soon. ~ Trellot
  5. Sorry for my late response/update ... been busy and distracted, etc.! So, after installing the new 12 pin cable I purchased, I'm getting a black screen (did all this months ago!). Of note, I had to remove the 12 pin male header originally on the switch-board and replace it with a 12-pin single socket since the cable I purchased had only straight male ends. Continuity seems to check out. Regarding the chip-side pic above, I'm wondering if I should go back and solder pins 4 and 5 from the chip-side of the board? Note sure if the solder made it to the top in order to connect properly with traces there? ... I'll check on that. ~ Trellot
  6. Damn! And I was hoping for a fix at the end of this one!!
  7. Hey guys, Take a look at the following pictures. This board is an Atari 2600 six-switch model and after pulling the 12-pin connector since I suspected a bad connector I found pads missing from some of the pin locations on top and bottom. Any idea if there is a workaround for this problem, or is the board shot at this point? Thanks, Trellot
  8. UPDATE: So just this last weekend I finally got this system working. I was in the market for the 1.8mH inductor but was warned away from thinking that was the issue from Best Electronics. They mentioned I should try replaicing the the two polystyrene sound capacitors on the board which I ordered and replaced. Didn't solve the problem. The problem morphed from having only static and not being able to play the games to having good video and sound after performing that short. But then on games like PacMan Ms. Pacman and Jungle Hunt, etc., the game would perform a sound glitch and freeze or in Jungle Hunt's case would start the game at the aligators but you couldn't play. So, I then decided to try swapping out chips but they were all soldered down on the main board, sigh! I chose to pull all the chips and socket them for ease of use in the future and it paid off since it ended up being the last chip I socketed, the RIOT chip. Now the system plays great, although I get a little buzzing noise every once in while during gameplay. Not sure why that's happening? I tried adjusting the sound coil and the rf modulator and it makes a little difference but the buzzing just sort of slips in now and then. Overall, I'm happy the results! I'll post a pic soon of the finished product! ~ Trellot
  9. I will definitely reflow those joints and should the static return I'll replace that L202 part. Thanks for your suggestions! ~ Trellot
  10. Thanks Signguy81, I tried shorting L202 on the mainboard and immediately I got clear sound from the unit. After the short, all the static went away and I was getting good sound; not without anomoly however with some repeating of sounds and some game play weirdness. Should this L202 module be replaced or could it be another component inline? I'm a noob to all of this so nothing necessarily stands out and glares me in the face lol! I will also try your suggestion above and report on that. Trellot
  11. Hi all, I've recently purchased a 4-swtich 2600 Vader unit but I only get static noise, no sound at all from the unit. Great video though! Looking for some suggestions on how to resolve this issue if possible. What I've done: Cleaned mainboard top and bottom with alcohol and toothbrush Dismantled and cleaned all the switchs which now work great Electrically tested voltage regulator and power jack (all well within range) Noticed rust under the RF shield and the top and bottom plates had some rust on them which I've abraided away. Tried the sound adjusting coil but got nothing from that Tuned the RF Modulator without success Noticed a rusty base on the RF modulator box so I desoldered it and cleaned it all up (rust on the board underneath which I've also cleaned well) Resoldered the RF modulator but get the same static noise Replaced the sound adjust coil with another working unit (no dice). Should there be anywhere else that I need to look other than the RF modulator? I've read that the TIA also manages sound as well? Any suggestions would be appreciated! As it stands now all is perfect except the static noise I get. Thanks, Trellot
  12. Thanks for the suggestion. I've thought the same myself. Might not hurt to replace those sockets, one by one, just to see. ~ Trellot
  13. Did I post this in the wrong Forum perhaps? Curious why it's had no reads or comments yet. Let me know if this should go somewhere else? Thanks, Trellot
  14. Hi all, ISSUE: I have an old Atari 2600 REVB board, for the six-switch console, which outputs nothing, when powered on, to my mid-1990s Panasoncic Omnivision TV/VHS unit. If I move the main board + switch-board around, while powered on, every so often the screen turns from the channel 2 or 3 solid blue look to a black screen with some buzzing noise from the speakers. Below are the debug steps I have taken thus far: Thoroughly cleaned the main board really well to begin. (there was some corrosion near the base of the 12-wire harness connections) Pulled all socketed IC chips from the non-working board and tested them in a known good working unit and found that they all work fine (8021E, R6507, R6532). Electrically tested the UA78M05 voltage regulator on the switch board with power plugged in and the power switch turned On: (IN = 7.8volts; OUT = just over 5 volts). NOTE: This switch board works on my known good Atari board but with bad washed out colors; only Black and White seems clear on certain games. Electrically tested the power adapter on the main board with power On: (both power points read around 8.10 volts). Desoldered the 12-pin wire harness from the board and cleaned up the through-hole area really wetll, then ran continuity on all 12 wires which was good. Soldered the harness back on and checked continuity again which was good. Re-flowed solder on the on-board power adapter as well; got the same voltage readings of around 8.10 volts. Ran continuity checks on a lot of the traces on the back of the board and everything I checked seemed good. (NOTE: I'm a Noob so this mean nothing ) Observation: when power is applied to the board I can feel the chips getting slightly warm so they appear to be getting power. I'm using the same 9volt AC Adapter on the non-working Atari as on the working Atari. At this point I'm not sure what to check. I've thought about replacing the voltage regulator and the 2200 UF-16V big cap on the switch board but this switch board basically works on my known good Atari board which makes me think the issue is with the main board. Any suggestions from the AtariAge community would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Trellot
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