sethbramwell

Interested in a pair of the earbuds if any are available. Thanks!

So far, so good. My biggest issue is the joystick being on the slow boat from China, LOL. Thanks for the heads up :-)

I had not realized that. Are those the later games?

I was going to hold off on sharing this until the mini joystick I'm waiting for arrived, but it seems to have been delayed another 3 weeks (despite supposedly being in the US). At any rate, the joystick is the last missing piece so I wanted to share some pictures of this project. This is a bartop arcade that was inspired by AtariAge FaceBook member James Hamel who made cartridge holders that resembled miniature arcade machines. I wanted to take this idea and turn it into a machine that would play 2600 carts by inserting the cart into where the marquee would be. It took some doing, but here's what there is so far. I just need the joystick to come in. The switches on the front are, from left to right: Power, Difficulty, Color/BW, Game Select, & Game Reset. Some limitations: It will only handle one player games/modes with left player input and difficulty and only games with joystick input.

Hey everybody, so some light browsing on the forums have sort of answered this question for me by confirming that the early 4 switch Woody consoles were made using old light sixer bases, most likely to clear out old inventory before starting on new molds. One post I read claimed that they were rarer than most four switch units. I had no idea that this was the case until I got two separate woody consoles in from two different eBay auctions that both had the light sixer base. Just curious if anyone knows how long this went on. I was considering taking one of them that is in particularly nice shape and replacing the bottom on my AV modded light sixer because it has a chipped corner.

Thanks for the tip. Upon consideration, I may just seek out a regulated 9VDC supply with a 1A rating and use it to drive the display and the main board. I believe I can tap into the 5V line from the board to run the sound chip like I run the AV mod chip. I'll definitely post as things develop. The display is a small (7 inch) display that I used on a previous project as an Atari driving game emulator as shown in the attached pics. I recently moved and decided to dismantle the driving cab as it was getting unreliable and I wanted to do more with the screen. As small as it is, it did a decent job displaying the games. As you can guess from this, the cab itself is going to be pretty small. I was in the process of building it when I messed up the board I was using. Now I'm waiting on a new one from a trashed unit.

I was hoping to avoid a power strip and use a single power supply. I already built a cab based on the components I had planned to use. I was planning to use a standard 2600 psu and feed the display by tapping the 9v line before the voltage regulator, but between the display and the sound chip I was worried about insufficient amperage/power.

Thank you for your input! I appreciate the caveats and your detailed explanations. I like the idea of adding a small heat-sink on the regulator regardless of anything else. I believe I have some small ones from Raspberry Pi projects if you feel one of those might work atop the regulator. As for a power supply, I would definitely use a regulated power supply. I have some nicely stabilized ones that consistently output 12V, though I had not considered the potential danger of an unregulated one. Thanks again for your help!

Hi everyone, theoretical question here... I'm attempting to build a bartop arcade machine that will play 2600 carts using the motherboard of an old 2600 I had in horrible shape (And before anyone asks why i would do such a thing, it's just a see-if-I-can project that was inspired by a post in the AA Facebook group). Big question is this: I will be integrating a small LCD screen with an AV mod to the main board and an amplifier chip that requires 5 volts. Is it possible to use a 12v power supply to the 2600 main board? I would be splicing off of that power supply to the screen and including a voltage regulator to drop it to 5 volts to run the amplifier circuit. I don't want to try just leeching off the 2600 due to the amperage requirements. From what I have read on the boards, I believe that a 12 volt power supply would still be within the tolerance for the built-in voltage regulator on the 2600 board. In theory can handle up to 35 volts but I would never push it that high. Obviously I would also use a higher amperage 12 volt power supply as it will be running more than just the 2600 board. Any thoughts?

Thanks so much. My big concern was connecting to the "wrong" chip and frying something. I should have to reroute only a few lines.

So in theory, the A1 pin from the cart slot could be connected to the A1 pin on any one of the three chips? Just want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly.

Thanks! I should probably clarify, I can read a schematic and follow the components, but I was lost on which connections led where as I could not seem to find actual lines of how they connected. To be honest, I'm still a bit confused. I understand the pins connect to the data and address lines, but do they connect first to the 6507, the TIA, or the RIOT? Or do they each go to different chips? I assumed they fed into one chip that in turn fed to the others, but the traces on the board seem to indicate otherwise and trying to test continuity with a multi meter has not been successful (partially due to the damage I did, I'm sure). Had the connector been removed successfully without damage, I would have simply ran wires to a new connector and in turn connected them to the points on the main board - an extension cord for the cart connector, if you will.

Does anyone happen to know where the cartridge slot connections connect to on a Rev. 16 Vader? I know certain pins are tied to data and address lines, but I do not know which specific IC they connect to. I've tried reviewing the schematics in the field service manual, but reading and interpreting schematic is really not my forte. I'm asking because I'm working on an idea that requires removing the cartridge slot to connect one via wiring to be away from the board and unfortunately I pulled up some pads and traces. Any help is greatly appreciated!

I have an extra controller from one of these that came in an ebay lot. They were detachable like the Inty 2 controllers. Never seen the console in the flesh, though.

I like to try to tune it into an older TV as well. Unfortunately the only older TV I have is a small portable one with a 3.5 mm Jack for an external antenna. I can sometimes dial into it with an older console but it is very hit-or-miss.

I've tried both. 3 gives better results.

Yes, I am. It locked in to the atari successfully but there is still significant snow on the screen.

Thanks, but I was able to get hold of one. It helps, but there's still snow in the picture. I'm working on recapping it.

I have disassembled it and am in the process of cleaning everything. I am also recapping and replacing components as I had an extra recap kit for a four switcher sitting around. I at least now have a stable picture, just with a lot of snow. I'm hoping the recapping will help it. I did find the power jack had issues so I replaced it as well, and that helped. I received an original Atari joystick with it that is filthy and beaten up. to my surprise, as filthy as it and the controller ports were, it worked with no cleaning. I am able to control the game with it.

I picked up a Vader 4 switch 2600 listed as for parts on eBay (actually won the auction without expecting to) as a project for the quarantine time. It came in really filthy condition with a bit of rust on the main board and rf modulator. I got nothing from it at first, but after messing with it a bit I got a very snowy and unstable picture. It's definitely reading the cart as I can see the outlines of the ms pac man maze and I can start a game and hear the sound. The RCA plug was cut off at the end of the cord, so I had to do a quick bit of Jerry rigging to get that much. I'm guessing it needs a recap but I'm not sure due to the condition of the cable. I had hoped to try it with a different RCA cable, but I didn't know that the hole on the board's jack was as shallow as it is. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks and stay healthy!

I have used media mail on a few auctions I've sold before because sometimes it really is the most cost effective option. Mind you, I've only used it for books and records. Never had an issue.

I think I'm good to share this here, but if it is not appropriate, please let me know. I have a buy it now listing for the following lot, and I'd actually like to seek some feedback on if I've priced it fairly: Mattel Intellivision model 2609. The console is missing one controller but works otherwise. The controller disc has wear on the surface please see the picture closely. The console has been cleaned inside and out. Mattel Intellivoice module with box and flyers. Serial numbers of module and box match. Box has wear and the tab to close it has been taped (See pictures) Boxed game of Major League Baseball. Includes directions and keypad overlays. Box has significant wear (See pictures) Loose copy of Tennis https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mattel-Intellivision-console-lot-Intellivoice-2-games-Working-READ-DESCRIPTION/184156472401

This is a shell I made from wood based on the classic Coleco mini arcades. It's not totally faithful to that design, as it was designed to hold a cell phone running Mame4All. I had a small joystick from a modded PS2 thumbstick in the control panel. I hate to see it go, but I wanted to offer it for anyone that might be able to use it, maybe for a pi? I ask that you cover the shipping (medium flat rate box, 15.00) and that you let me know what you do with it :-) The control panel is removed (it was held on with two finishing nails) but will be included should you need a template for a new one.

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