Lastic

@mozzwald @jeffpiep thanks for the thorough explanation but like I said I'm an electronics noob. As such I won't be wasting too much of your time since you are clearly busier and way more technical than I am If I use only the NodeMCU on the SIO port are these connections correct ? More specifically SIO 5V can go directly to Vin ? The SIO GND pins 4 and 6 should both be connected ? To which of the 3 GND's on the NodeMCU or doesn't that matter ? GPIO SIO 5 13 4 9 Vin 10 GND ? 4/6 16 8 12 7 13 5 15 3

Well I twisted the twist , will see once my power convertor arrives tomorrow. As with all things Atari , exciting times await

OK I think I found a temporary solution until I buy a cleaner cable so I can create disks tomorrow and be able to boot the ATR8000. I got 2 cables from my old stock. The bottom one has Card Edge then 3,5" , again 3,5" , then Card Edge and then the connector the PCB. If I untwist the cable ,reseat the Card Edge and then at the end add the Card Edge connector of the top one, I should have 3 Card Edge connectors I can use ?

Thanks a lot once again for that info, just for clarification, I did mean to take the diskdrive out of the XF551 and connect it directly to the ATR8000 (card edge to card edge) whilst only using the PSU of the XF551 to power it, even that wouldn't work neither ?

Correct, I didn't realise that until I opened my XF551 and noticed that it had an card edge connector also. So I need a cable like this , correct ? https://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/24-inch-34-Pin-Card-Edge-IDC-5-25-Floppy-2-Drive-Cable-CablesOnline-FF-005/270837819768?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Couldn't I make my own cable using straight ribbon cable and 2 of these Card Edge connectors ?

Cosign with @manterola we both played around with an ESP board a lot at Fujiyama . I have another 3 weeks of vacation but my C experience dates back from 1994, and although I can handle reading code (Perl/Bash/C/Assembler/Python) to fix small fuckups at work, I'm not fluent enough to spit out working code as fast as you currently are doing Out of interest and as a *NIX geek and network engineer, I do like the approach you are taking with this all-in-one device so I might be tempted to follow your code along the way. I got the same NodeMCU , what other parts do I need to replicate this setup ? From mozzwald's schematic here I can see I would need the TTL shifter and a 1N4148 but what are the other parts (I'm an absolute noob regarding electronics) ? Which 2 resistors ?

Thanks for the hint, I picked that up in the 58 topics I'm still reading Well once the 110/220V convertor arrives tomorrow, I'll be able to check it further, the seller did show that it powered up (power LED working) . Am I correct that I can use my XF551 to boot CP/M ? Well first have to figure out how to get a copy of it onto a floppy. Still processing all the topics to understand what can and cannot be connected to the ATR.

FML came home with a travel adapter which converts the plug but not the voltage, aargh ... New order placed for a VOLTAGE convertor. Delivery tomorrow.

Thanks, now off to get a 110V/220V adapter. In the meanwhile I've looked in my stock of old cables and found the following. So it has the floppy connector that the ATR8000 has , the grey one in the middle and the IDE one on the other end. To my understanding one may not use the twisted floppy cables ( I have a few of those also ) If I disconnect my XF551 from it's controller but keep it powered via it's PSU, should I be able to use the XF551 as a boot floppy drive on the ATR8000 ?

And here it is, of course I just realise that my 110V to 220V converter was lend out and never returned to me, aargh ... First look there is no board underneath so no CO-POWER motherboard , oh well, I wasn't planning on running MSDOS anyhow (yet ) Only thing that came shipped with it was the manual, luckily still got a US powercord laying around now only need to get a 110/220V converter. In the meanwhile I've gathered all 58 topics discussing the ATR8000 and am reading thru them. The thing that has been intriguing me the most , is the SASI/SCSI option. Has anybody used this in combination with SCSI2SD ? http://shop.codesrc.com

Is there a way that I can make a one-time donation instead of monthly ?

As I have been able to install SDL 2.0.3 on my 10.5 PPC iBook, I'm failing to compile Atari800Mac from source. Should I refrain from compiling with GCC and try Xcode instead ?

NewYearDisk 2020 , people can sent in their demos,things they want to add to this disk.

Have been reading a lot already but not sure on the monitor ? Since I also have an Atari ST which has hi-res mode only in monochrome, it might be worthy to invest in a monitor that can be used by both machines.

Will do , it's crossing the ocean at the moment.

@Larry mine arrived today, and it works like a charm. Thanks once again and also a big thank you for packaging it so good !

And here I was in 2019 trying to load the RSI - Hard MOD file from their famous Megademo into Neotracker resulting in sample too long, and what is one of the MOD files included in your ATR ? YES RSI Hard by Romeo Knight , thanks a lot for this wonderfull ATR ! Now I only need to find this MOD file, as a unfortunately PC only youngster , I was so jealous of Amiga/Atari when it came to sound, took a few years before PC catched up.

Well learning to understand and read Polish might be a new goal for 2020 but not for 2019 yet, no Silly Venture yet this year. @Philsan Wyspa , ( which wasn't listed ) indeed looks not so easy for a non-Polish reader @Duddie are these available on tape to pre-order ? Inny Swiat Jaffar Technus Turbican Fire Power Hydraulik Snowball And I seem to have missed out on Czaszki/Electra, is that one still available on tape ?

No worries, today I thought what the heck I'll just saw a hole in the case and see how it looks. I'm glad of the result. This topcase has been my try-out one anyhow, a like new topcase and keyboard is returning from Jon since the 130XE innards are dead beyond reasonable repair. Version 2.0 will also be smoother since I've gathered more patience, more holidays and better tools. Idea is to use the ST eject buttons that @R0ger kindly proposed to print on the right-hand side and to move the floppy drive a tiny bit more inwards. Then to create a cutout like perinoid did (with maybe a bezel), the display will go on the same place as now. And of course Drakon's second badge will be used. I was convinced for a long time that I could splice an 1040STfm and a 130XE badge together but his badge will look 300% better than my splicing things together. It is a nice distraction from instead of sitting at a computer to be working on a computer.

Day 3 , decided to take the plunge and install the LED display in the top left corner. Since this topcase has been a hacksaw job from day one, altough my tools and skills have improved from then up to now, I thought let's make another hole into it I felt it was more aligned with the power LED and still not too obstructive, thoughts ? Placed the buttons PCB on the righthand-side above the floppydrive since it felt more logical to move them there. Still did a horrible job on the buttons on the side above the joystick ports/floppy-drive , but well I'm still not convinced I won't replace these knobs with Atari ST floppy drive eject buttons (to have a more diamond shaped Atari themed button). And thought I might finally install the label created by Drakon. Funny how without a flash , the case looks grey Next up , reorganize the wiring , things are looking busy inside nowadays.

Where to put the display, top left corner aligned with the power led ? I could route the cabling under the U1MB cables , around the U1MB PCB and come back up to the top. Due to the connectors pointing downwards (double row) , it's hard moving the trackdisplay PCB on top of the floppy.

Day 2 of my 5 weeks vacation so I thought to properly install the switches and wilst doing that, I brought back an old item which Jon will remember Using smaller files helps ... a lot So this is how currently the inside is looking, still haven't decided where to install the Track Display and Buttons. I do need a better pin for the power to the floppy PCB since it sits too high when putting the topcase onto it. And yes, I've cut a part out of the shield and reinstalled it so it supports the floppy and keeps it laying flat. To be continued ...

Thanks everybody for the info, it's interesting how many variants turn up. @Mr Robot also thanks for the link to the crimp tool, I got the same one

Has anybody else ever produced these silicone cups ? Still would like to upgrade my 130XE's keyboard.

So I thought I had bought the correct SIO female pins here https://www.vanallesenmeer.nl/KF2510-Krimpstekker , soldered them to wires only to discover they are too little Top one is from a broken cable with the correct sized connector So I've been searching the interwebz but am still puzzled what the correct connector is ? It's a Molex KK something but which one is the correct size for our SIO plug ? https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0008500105/WM2300CT-ND/467825 https://www.digikey.be/product-detail/en/molex/0008500106/WM2300-ND/26477 https://nl.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-contacts/1707248/ https://www.distrelec.be/nl/crimp-terminal-female-tin-18-20awg-molex-0850-0189/p/14381497?track=true&no-cache=true This one looks to have flange which doesn't look correct to me for our purpose https://nl.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-contacts/6702250/ Anybody can shine some light on which part number is the correct sized connector ?