TheCoolDave

Agreed, as for us retro gamers/game collectors, Phil Spencer is one of the best heads of Xbox because of his thoughts of being worried about game preservation. From this day one he was talking about the importance of preservation. I hope they come up with a solution for this. No matter, if you or I like or hate the games that are going away, they should be preserved and be able to be played by future generations.

This is not fully correct. If you buy an Xbox 360 game that is on the compatibly list from the Xbox one OR xbox.com it will show up on your Xbox 360 as it's a 360 game and you can install/play it on the 360. This is in the FAQ. Yes, till further notice. You will be able to play games on the compatibly list on the Xbox one OR Xbox 360. You will be able to play all digital games that you own on the 360 and Re-download them if you have deleted them. All your digital games are tied to your Microsoft account. If you had played a 360 game on an Xbox one console, you notice that it boots up the 360 logo and when you pause the game, it goes to the 360 menus. As I understand it, emulation depends on these services for achievements and multiplayer. So, in a nutshell, the 360 after this date will work exactly the way it works now, play digital, physical, play online (Xbox live), download games that you own, all achievements, EVERYTHING besides buying content ON the Xbox 360. Besides possibly losing digital games, the 360 will be far from dead... Compared to what other consoles has done (Wii I am looking at you), this is kind of a best-case scenario than just killing the 18 year old system.

Hmmmm....Wonder if it will fit my HP EliteBook 850 G5, not a gaming laptop but, I know it uses DDR4....

I agree. If they did release one, it would be crazy money like $249.99 to make the Series X look more appealing to most people. For the record, I do own a Series X and a PS5 disc consoles. Microsoft, Sony and even Nintendo, they do not want physical games anymore, it costs them more money to make it. This is what the Series S and the PS5 digital device is. Sign up for their Game Pass or Sony's pass system (I forget the name). Pay $10-15 a month get plenty of older or new first party games. And if you want a newer game, you can overpay for it. It's the truth on overpaying... A 2 week to 3-month-old game, you can used for $20-35, on Xbox, or Sony's store, it's still $59.99. This is very common on popular games. Even some odd ball semi-popular games. I have been watching this for years, about 25-30 games now, I would find a game that was released like 3 weeks to 2 months ago (semi-popular games), search for it used (eBay, Facebook marketplace, etc), I would see games used around $20-40, in the digital stores they were ALL $59.99, full retail pricing. I get how nice digital games are but, I am a budget gamer, I need to save money where I can, a digital ONLY console is not for me, or will ever be. IF the next Xbox or PS system is release ONLY in digital format, odds are very high that I won't even buy the console. By the way, I own 95-98% of the consoles from 1978...

WiiU--- Mario 3D land. It was the PRIMARY reason I got the system. I love modern Mario games as much as the first early ones.

I have a Steam Deck but it's too large to carry everywhere. I need something "pocketable" for the quick jobs (when I am stuck somewhere I would rather not be or waiting for something). The RG353M just came out, I saw some reviews that make it look really good and I am looking for a device that about the same size as my Miyoo Mini. I do love the Mini but, it's too dam limited. It's up to PS1, no N64, no Dreamcast, or any of those. After seeing many of the reviews for the Anbernic devices, I decided I need one of them... I just sent my wife a link (good price on the OEM site) for the RG353M.... A good Xmas gift for me, I will be very happy with my new portable

If you have a set, I'd be interested...

Look at the tabs at the bottom... Plenty of retro stuff there but, didn't see any 3DO things... Looking over the Pac-man watches, dam at those prices, I am going to have find mine at mom's house (they in a cab that is stacked behind other things)

Please add me to the list, would love to try a handful of games for this system...

Good luck with the sale, been eyeing of these for a while but, it's just too much for me right now.... This can be controlled via IR as well, It's a nice option for someone who wants to automate their switching setup..

If you look up the subject a little, the serial numbers CAN tell the tale... SOMETIMES.... Also to note, the 1-Chip models are later, so they Yellowing is ALMOST never found on 1-chip models. Serial number starting with UN3 is very high chance of having a 1-chip, or even later like a UN32 almost 95%. When 1-Chip models were going for over $100, I went on eBay and found some auctions, like buy it now for like $65, I would ask to see the serial number, and with some back and forth, I got for $47. I got a UN32 serial number and it was a 1-Chip model. This is a good starting point, as people trying to unload a SNES will not open for most people but, this CAN BE hit or miss. I did a comparison from 3 different consoles(I have a few SNES consoles), a early one, a mid one and a 1-Chip. I played the same part of a game and snaped good pictures. It was Super Mario world with the green background and Mario in the picture. Between all the pictures, the 1-chip was clearly cleaner and sharper. This was via RGB on my Framemister going into a 65" 4K tv. A little more info on this...this is copied from RetroRGB... Finding the 1CHIP SNES | RetroRGB North American 1CHIP consoles are found in consoles with serial numbers that start with “UN3”. Not every “UN3” is a 1CHIP, but every 1CHIP I’ve seen (that wasn’t moved in a case swap) has a serial number such as “UN321907569”. It’s possible serial numbers starting with “UN31” were the first to include the 1CHIP, but I’ve seen the occasional SNS-APU-01 motherboard in a case starting with that serial number, so there really is no other sure-fire way to tell, other then opening the console.

Agreed, It is a needed thing for Series X games. I also have a 5tb drive hooked up as well (7tb of storage on my Series X). I keep all my optimized Series X games on the internal SSD/or the 1tb crazy expensive addon. I put all 360, Xbox one, and other stuff on my 5tb. My 360 is still hooked up for games that are NOT in compatabilty mode (I have a few I am trying to finish) I remember on my Xbox One X 1tb model, I thought it was a lot of space but, it was gone before I knew it.... I'd love to see 2-4tb cards for this... Even 2tb for Series games is not enough (a modern COD game is over 125gb alone). Add GamePass and if you buy a lot of new releases (like I do), even that is out of space quick... Well, no so quick, I did get my Series X on December 2020....

WOW, after 20 years trying to get a chance to play this game... Looking up every few months for news... TONIGHT, I actually got to play this game and although it is more challenging than the first one (I do own the OG coin op of Marble Madness), it's got the same feel and WOW, I actually got to play in my life time... This is one game I never thought I would be able to play.... For those wondering... Custom Mame, Used a Xbox One controller to play it, and it worked well...

They do make a RF to A/V(Channel 3 or 4 to A/V) converter, those are like $80+ and the results are not always the greatest. If your good with a soldering IRON there are MODS for the 2600 to give A/V out. The mod will give you the best results...

Call or Tweet Samsung on that one, connect your TV to the internet and make sure it's fully updated. That is where I would start with that. You would be shocked on how well they reply. It's bad press if they do not respond. No question 4K and HDR 10 on the Xbox One X, looks amazing, I played Gears 5 on it and I was blown away(first game playing in HDR).. Now modern NON-HDR games, kind of missing something...LOL It's much better on the Series X but the One X is still awesome...

It looks good but, see if it has been re-capped. The Duo (I have TurboDUO) was made in the time of bad caps, and they should be checked. Hate to spend $300 on a console just to have a cap leak and wreck it... Not 100% crazy about how they modded(the jacks on the back) it but, it will look fine from the front.

I have a Framemeister (man these things shot up in value !). So I can take SCART and it came with a SCART cable. So if the 210 will output RGB via SCART it's all good. Somewhere I read that the 450ish had RGB on SCART and the lower ones just did composite over SCART, that is why I was wondering... I'll do some testing tonight, I have not had time to play with it because the PS5 I was hunting for over 6 months now came in the same day... I've watched a few YouTube videos on the Timekeeper, looks pretty easy and I am pretty good with a soldering iron so no big deal. I just need to order a CR2032 holder.. Something I do not have in my spare parts bin (5 for like $5 on ebay so no biggie)

Hey all, any tech side here ? I have a Gameboy Pocket, it does NOT turn on, power is getting to the board, I believed it's the switch, so I ordered one. I pulled off the old one while waiting. I get the new one, and it not fit right. Is there 2 pins that I can short out showing it's on to test to make sure that WAS the problem ? If so, what pins ?

I would say about 85% of all the AAA games (or most popular ones) are on there but, I would say 40-50% of the entire collection is on there. There is also OG Xbox games on there. It's always that odd ball game that you drop in that does not work (it's the reason I keep my 360 still connected). The Xbox One X is a great console, I had one and sold it after I got the Series X. 4K gaming and a great value for the system..

Just scored one from Best Buy, it took a week to come in but, grabbed mine on Friday(after almost 6 months trying to get one FOR RETAIL). I wanted to play Last Of US 2 on it (I had a PS4 but, not a pro) and I have a 4K HDR tv so I wanted to get the best out of it... I picked up LOU2 4-5 months ago ($29.99 on sale) and it's still sealed. I am playing with Astro's playhouse and it's pretty great for a built in game... I think I will finish that before play LOU2 besides the games I am trying to finish on my Series X (that one was easy to get) As for above....does anyone here actually have a 8K tv yet ??

I grabbed a PAL CDI-210 with a SCART connector on it. I am hearing that that output on the 210 does not output RGB, just A/V. Is there any truth to it ? If it's not, as it's got SCART is it an easy mod to get RGB working it ? I will have to deal with the Timekeeper chip on it, as it's dead (a Dremel and a CR2032 holder can fix it, does not look like a hard mod)

Oh, no question, I have a Series X and I still play 360 for the tiles that are not in back compat. The nice thing about the 360 games, when you device to move to the newest console, like the Series X, about 40-50% of the games will play on the Series X and a lot will look even better....

Someone who goes to thrift stores and yard sales when I can. The ones that you can get cheap now will be the 360 and PS3 for the most part, Most of these people moved to Xbox one and PS4 normally don't care about these. If your looking for a little more modern gaming, you can get some really good stuff with 360 and PS3 games for cheap... They are not 4K but, most titles hold up very well today. Finding more retro is getting harder now. With COVID times people are grabbing them thinking they are going to make a ton off them. I tend to sometimes, getting rarer finding NES, SNES, N64 type games as they were more common. I look forward to the pricing dropping a bit, there is a few GameCube titles I want but, NFW paying $100 for a Zelda GameCube. Anyway about it, it's not as easy to find as it was 3-4 years ago.

Awesome, that cleared everything up ! Thanks ! They tend to be cheaper too for some reason. As long as all units with SCART output RGB, that should great... Thanks !

OK, old thread, I know. For some strange reason I REALLY want a CD-i and been watching them like crazy and this looks like a good thread to reply to. Some of the titles are getting crazy money for but, at least they can be sampled on a CD-R. Getting one from overseas with SCART can get me RGB, and I would be interested more than a US model if I can. So, I am not 100% clean on my question. Is there any problems with getting one from overseas (EU, or that side of the pond) with the voltage differences (220/110) ? And the games 50 vs 60hz, This is hard coded into the Disc, not the player ? Am I correct, it does not matter the player I get, as long as the disc I play is NTSC and not PAL ? And it looks like I can build a SNEStoCDI very cool, I do not need a crazy cost controller, for now at least.