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About zezba9000

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  1. It works if you only want to play games that DON'T require Pokey or Yamaha chips (which is most games). Just do a google search for what they're. If you don't care about any games that require them, then you don't need them.
  2. Maybe not related or helpful but I had to add ferrite cores to the PSU where it meets the console, the power connector that attaches to the Dragonfly cart & to the A/V cable at both ends. Otherwise with this cart I would get a lot of interference that I didn't have with Concerto cart or official carts. 7800 seems A/V seems very sensitive.
  3. I bought that cable new (I didn't make it). That cable was probably based off an official one that are impossible to find. Atari ST uses FAT12 I think while your files may be using FAT16 (which only works with ROM upgrades or newer versions)? Maybe I could send what test files I have on my USB that work with my 520ST. Maybe this thread helps https://github.com/keirf/FlashFloppy/issues/232#issuecomment-711482366
  4. Ok I've mapped the cable. This cable works perfect for me. External link: https://archive.org/details/atari-st-external-cable
  5. I now have a working cable. I can map out all PINs for you later today after work or this weekend (this really needs to be on the web [I'll probably upload it on arcive.org too]). Just hold off for a little and I'll try to get that info for you.
  6. It has no partition. You need to right-click on the "unallocated" space and create a FAT32 partition. It should also ask you to assign a drive letter. If it does not correctly assign a drive letter right click on the partition and click "Change Drive Letter and Paths" and set one. * If you still have issues use a different SD card reader or different USB port. * Make sure you eject the SD card before pulling it out. * After you eject, make sure you unplug the USB cable and not just the SD card as Windows can get goofy if you don't on some readers. EDIT: looks like you got it work. Posted this before reading other comments.
  7. Right-Click on the "Start" button and open "Disk Management" This shows what partitions are on different drives.
  8. The issue was the "MOS Technology R6532" RIOT chip. Seems like both the R6532P & R6532AP will work.
  9. I cleaned cartage port & the removable chips with 99% isopropyl alcohol (first thing I did). The voltage regulator is producing 5v & 10v is being fed into it. I will clean again to be sure but stuff wasn't super dirty. I will also see if my Sears 2600 Telegames system chips can be used to confirm if the VCS has bad a RIOT chip etc.
  10. Have an Atari VCS 6-switch that will work fine for 1-sec (literally) then just go into some failed state. <<< EXAMPLES >>> Turn on system & I'll see a good screen 1 second later get this. Same kind of thing with a different game (and every other game I've tried so far) Anyone know what this might be? FYI I replaced 4.7uf-32v caps & 2200uf-16v cap. No change. I also tried replacing transistor in RF module but that didn't help.
  11. Awesome! I'm in the US. Are these shipping from Sweden? EDIT: Never mind I see confirmation email. Yes they are
  12. I had an Amiga ship from Poland and it took their government 2-3 months before releasing it to the US. So it might depend on where its shipping to. Russia also since COVID takes months for anything to get here (I ordered Famicom Lightgun).
  13. Yes with two .a78 roms labeled inside the zip. * Rampage (USA) (Doesn't work, bad header).a78 [sounds like this had no header which seems wrong for its file ext as you said] * Rampage (Works with potential graphic glitches).A78
  14. It ran then this graphics glitch started to happen less than a minute into gameplay. Also tried another rom & got this screen. Hit fire & it gets stuck at 90% on this rom.
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