hexcor

Hi Karri, What was your rational for replacing the Mikey? I have a first gen Lynx that powers on with a grey screen but no sound/video. The larger chip under the cart gets very hot (i'm guessing this is the Lynx 1 Mikey...), i'm guessing that chip is bad based on the temperature (it gets SUPER hot). I've not done a thing with it in a few months because I have a working Lynx 2, but your post has raised my interest that I might be able to repair this one

Toss me into the preorder as well.

He posted a video on Facebook on the NSDL screen for the GBA: https://www.facebook.com/BennVennElectronics/videos/408958746582179/ Looks like the Lynx and GC are coming up too. Exciting times for all.

Wow, that's nice looking. I have a broken Lynx2 that im tossing a Raspberry pi zero into. I connected the controller to a teensy and have the rest of the parts.. I just need to have some time to connect everything. Got pictures of the inside of that?

I cant really remove the LCD flex circuit on the lynx 1, can I? At this point (and searching at other posts in here), 7V going thru those components would dry them, Im going to toss in the towel. My thought is someone put the power cord into the headphone or comlynx jack and fried the system. Ill clean it up and make a display out of it. Oh well. Thanks again for all the help

To get to Mikey and Suzy I had to remove a metal shielding, which I just did. I cannot check voltage since the cart needs to be in the system and that covers the chips! Here is what I found: U6 off 1,4,5,9,10,13m and 14 all read 9V, on 2,3,6,8,11,12,14 7.8ish Measure the voltage across R65 and C7 with the Lynx on, you should get 0 and 5V respectively.... got 7.39V Also, Mikey was very very hot to the touch... could this be a failure? At one point, the speaker kicked on and was loud and staticy, but I was able to lower the volume. I do have a parts Lynx 2 motherboard, I could remove mikey from that, but i'd like to avoid using hot air (never did it before, although I do have a hot air gun, lol)

OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG I replaced the transistors at Q4 and Q13 and then reattached the speaker and it turns on! I don't know if the speaker needs to be connected or not, I just decided to do it. Anyways, it powered on with a game, but the screen shows nothing and no sound is coming out of speaker/headphones I'll recap this weekend and see if it does anything. Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it

He also mentioned it's for the Lynx 2, since he doesn't have a Lynx 1 to test it on. I don't know much about the McWill screen, is it physically different because of the way it connects to the frame (lynx 2) or motherboard (Lynx 1), or is it also electronically (computerically.. lol) different?

Thanks. I did replace Q11 already, ill try Q13 tonight. The caps look ok(nothing bulging) I would like to not recap if something else is shot! Ill replace q13 and if it doesnt work, I still have my lynx 2 that works!

Gosh, I wish I could edit/delete posts! Sorry for the overposting. I ended up replacing the Zener diode and nothing changed. I then tested the old one for resistance off the Lynx and it had similar readings as the new one.. so as far as I can tell, it's still good so, back to where we were. I did the measurements and posted them above.

Here's something... I tested the resistance of the diode on the Lynx, in both directions it was OL. When I tested the one I got in the mail in one direction I got OL, and in the other I got 20 Mohms... I wonder if the zener diode on the Lynx is broken (it is still connected to the system, so I don't know if that plays any role).

Ok, resistance measurements on Q11 With the red lead on the bottom and black on the top left, I got 0.L With the red lead on the top and the black lead on the bottom, I got about 10M ohms with regards to C73, did you mean C37? If so, I measured 0, 4.7K, and 0 as you expected. My zener diode came in today, should I install it, or hold off? I won't be able to do it until this weekend.

Woah, q13: Black fixed on the top left pin, I got 120 ohms on the right pin, 0.36 m Ohms on the bottom Black fixed on the top right pin, I got 120 ohms on the left pin, 0.36 m Ohms on the bottom Black fixed on the bottom pin, I got 1.7 m Ohms on both pins

OK, here's what I got: between 1 and 10 of U^ I measured 10.12k ohms Between 10 and Q13 I got the following.. for the bottom (again, using this image https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/98/Atari-Lynx-Motherboard-Bottom.jpg)Igot 10.12k ohms for the left and right I got 1.8m ohms (this is mega 1e6, not milli 1e-3, correct?) When measuring the components of Q13 Black fixed on the top left pin, I got 120 ohms on the right pin, 0.36 m Ohms on the bottom Black fixed on the top left pin, I got 120 ohms on the right pin, 0.36 m Ohms on the bottom Black fixed on the bottom pin, I got 1.7 m Ohms on both pins now, with the readings, mostly they were increasing, so I let it go up and just stopped taking the readings. I do have a cap and power kit from console5 (i've only replaced the mosfet, and the zener diode was not included, it should be delivered tomorrow to me), it did come with two transistors (one for Q13). Are you thinking Q13 is shot? I appreciate all the help, my son's been bugging me to have it working so we can play 2 player California games!

Sorry you missed em! If I had known I'd have bought em and sold them to ya at cost!

Hi Stephen, I retested again this time by putting com on pin #7 and got readings.. when "off" (plugged in and game cart in) 1,4,5,9,10,13, and 14 all have between 8 and 9V When I press "on" 1,4,5, 9, and 14 stay between 8-9V. 10 and 13 read 0. 11 and 12 read between 8 and 9V. This means U6 is working correctly, no?

Is this what you're looking for: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Atari-Lynx-Ridge-Style-Cartridges-California-Games-Chips-Challenge/273169846982?hash=item3f9a3112c6:g:r2YAAOSwwFJbhsQX:sc:USPSFirstClass!27502!US!-1:rk:13:pf:0

OK, Stephen, I opened the system and started probing around. One comment you made was to check the power on U6 on the off and on state. You said to put the com (black) cord to TP16, I am not seeing TP16 on my MB looking at the image ere (https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/98/Atari-Lynx-Motherboard-Bottom.jpg) it looks like TP16 should be just right of the black power wire... on my Lynx (1), that section is covered by other components, I MIGHT be able to see TP16, but it's not accessible, so I used TP18. Back to U6, I probed the legs and i'm getting negative voltage readings and then when I press on (I wish I had a helper if I have to hold!), i'm getting some changes... here's what I have OFF 1 0 2 -9V 3 0 4 0 5 0 6 -9V 7 -9V 8 -9V 9 0 10 0 11 -9V 12 -9V 13 0 14 0 I rounded to the nearest whole number ON 1 8v 2 0 3 0 4 9V 5 9 6 0 7 0 8 0 9 9 10 still 0 11 now 9 12 Now 9 13 0 14 9 Just to be clear, the numbering is 1 at the circle, then it goes counter clockwise (so #2 is to the left of 1 and then #8 is across from #7, right?) Also, looking at this site:http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/How-to-test-a-zener-diode it describes how to test a zenner diode. I'm seeing about 385 ohms either way...

Thanks, I found an old post of yours after posting this. I will look into it this week. Appreciate it.

Hi all, Just got a Lynx 1 that doesn't power on (with batteries or using the power cord, working game is in). When plugged in, I tested the voltage across the Mosfet and see it's about 8.7V on the source and gate, zero on the drain. If I push power while doing that, still no change. I ordered the power regulator refresh kit from console5 and replaced the mosfet (the diode was not included, they'll resend it) and see the same issue. Would a dead zener diode contribute to this? I would think that since the drain is reading at zero, there;s an issue before the diode, no? I've seen the bypass, where exactly should i solder the wire for a Lynx 1 to test this out?

Not sure if it's a Lynx 1 or 2 replacement, but he's expecting the cost to be 1/2 the price of the McWill screen. Also announced one for the Game Gear... hopefully a Nomad as well, the backup camera LCD mod is just rubbish for the Nomad

One of the nicer mods (besides backlighting) the DMG is replacing the plastic screen with a glass one ( Wondering if there's a similar option for the Lynx 2, or were sales so low (and demand for one) that no one produced one? I know Ali Express (and eBay) sells them for the Nomad and i've also seen them for the Game Gear

Follow up..wired to resistor and it worked. Got my McWill screen installed and is working perfectly. Thanks.

I am using the map from console 5 ( I removed all the caps, D13 and the mosfet and checked some of the vias the caps would be in and still have a short to ground my guess here is that a chip must have fried, which is causing the error. I'm glad I only paid $30 for the lynx and whatever console 5 charges for the caps/regulator kit..

I will check that tonight, as I remember, the stripe (per console 5) should be facing to R74,which I THOUGHT I double checked. Should I not be concerned with the continuity between the vias for a capacitor? Wouldn't that mean power would be bypassing the capacitor? I used 91% IPA (although it's old) wonder if I did a poor job cleaning the flux there too. I will also take apart my other Lynx 2 that works and check there. There does seem to be a bunch of vias for caps that are going to the grounds, I don't know if thats correct either, again, i'll check that too