pokemontrainer

It worked! Had to do quite some cleaning and repairs besides replacing the inductors (rusted screws, oxidized traces and power connector, traces with scratches, sealing with kapton tape etc.) but now it works! Not the nicest SMD job on the inductors, I am still learning. I also added a 50/60Hz switch for the correct experience without slowdown.

Fantastic, thanks a lot!? Will order them right away.

I am currently repairing a Jaguar: recap is complete (cap kit from console5) and I finally get an image & sound. The image is green only and by looking at the inductors on the port it is clear why: L15 is missing and L14 is damaged (see picture). The schematics just labels these as 'FB', which I guess stands for ferrite bead. No info regarding inductance, max current, resistance etc. I guess it is 0805 size and of low resistance (since a proper 75ohm resistor is in line), but even with this there are so many different types and values available e.g. on Mouser. I do not have the equipment to desolder and measure one of the other inductors. Does anyone know the specs or ideally even can link to the correct component (Mouser, digikey) ? Would love to bring this Jag back into action. Just because Cybermorph's 'where did you learn to fly' head is green does not mean all Jag stuff should be green only.

Hi I am looking for a 3DO Gamegun. Thanks

@SeanKelly These reproductions look great! Will these be available again in your shop this year?

Hi! Signing up for one as well! ? EDIT: Payment sent.

Really cool to see this progress! ? I will take 2 (1 PAL and 1 NTSC) as well!

PM sent.

The 80 Euro thing is just the box, and the other 3 Ebay offers are fake (all use the same pictures with different accounts etc.) ?

Looking for a Casio PV-1000 Console.

To add to the second question: If the -5V is needed, can I replace the entire internal power supply circuit with input from a -5V, 5V, 12V power supply likes this (Mean Well GP25A13A-R1B) ?

I'm thinking about replacing the original power supply with a switching one directly connected to the DC lines, as described above. Questions that came up by looking at the schematics of the model 1 (see bottom left corner of this schematic): Can i connect the power supply directly to the output of each voltage regulator, or do I have to remove them to avoid strange behavior of the ac/dc circuitry that would get current in the other direction (some kind of back-flow)? What about the negative voltage (-5V) for the RAM that is at the bottom of the power supply schematic, does it suffice to give the +12V and +5v to the voltage regulators output pins, or do I have to construct some kind of -5V supply for that point as well?

Ok, thanks for the explanation, this makes it much clearer, esp. with the picture. So the original socket (the one used in the french versions of the G7400 is a circular one and not a horseshoe as described in the RGB mod page? I want to create a mod that is close to the original french model, so I would like to know whether I should order a new socket for the pcb or a connector for the cable.

Reviving this old thread: What 8pin DIN connector did you use for the cable? And does the connector differ from the one used in the older G7XXX ? I bought all components for the RGB mod as described on the site you linked above, including the correct MAB-8-SH socket. I then ordered this Odyssey/Videopac rgb cable. Before doing the RGB mod I now realized that the cable connector does not fit in the DIN socket, it must be this other DIN 8 variation mentioned in the mod manual. I have some spare DIN-8 connectors, but those also seem to be the wrong kind, hence I hope someone here can give me a link or article number of a connector that fits into this special MAB-8-SH DIN 8 socket. Thanks