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Wumbologist

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  1. With these connections my OSSC is getting two signals: YPbPr: https://imgur.com/kX8jV1l RGsB: https://imgur.com/tgMrYNL Both look equally wrong on my TV. @flashjazzcat you're right. It looks like if I want to use my 130XE with my OSSC I might need to RGB mod it.
  2. I'm using this composite cable: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIN-to-RCA-Color-Composite-Video-A-V-Monitor-Cable-for-Atari-800-XL-XE-6-BIN-A/130888382784?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 And this SCART cable: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-65XE-130XE-800XE-Cable-S-VIDEO-Scart-5-Meters/323558990802?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The strange choice in connector colors for the composite cable has been a nightmare to work with, so I added some labels. Here's a picture of hw it's plugged into the OSSC (slightly unplugged so you can see the colors on the OSSC): https://imgur.com/mgIHbRT
  3. Hello again @Nezgar and @DrVenkman, thanks for helping me out last time. Okay so just a few minutes after posting this I figured out part of the issue. My TV was on component mode and not composite. I switched input and the lines are gone, but I still want to get this working through my OSSC. Connecting it through Component to the OSSC I get this picture (the text is very faint but there): https://imgur.com/BgzjXBD Through SCART I get this picture (no text at all): https://imgur.com/dwCbaNr
  4. I know there's other posts about this, but mine seems to be much more severe than most. I previously had other problems with this machine: Which I got fixed by replacing the OS chip. Everything was working fine so I shelved this machine to work on restoring others and now that I'm back the composite output from this thing is horrendous. Take a look: https://imgur.com/a/SJcOfYq It's like this if I connect it straight my TV though composite as well as if I connect it through composite to my OSSC which is connected to the TV by HDMI. Sorry if the answer is stupidly basic. I remember getting picture like this before and it was just because my cables weren't connected right, but I've plugged every combination of Luma/Chroma/Composite cables and I still get the same lines (though sometimes in different colors).
  5. Ah I didn't even know that existed. That's cool. So that's one 130XE down. Someday I'll get to repairing my other. Anyone know what chips are compatible replacements for the GTIA that I can flash with my TL866?
  6. Okay so I have another 130XE that will power on (red light on keyboard) but won't display anything. I tried swapping the GTIA chip from it into this one we've been troubleshooting and now it works perfectly. Boots right to BASIC. I can run the self test and it comes back without any issues. There is one thing I noticed though and that's that the output picture is a bit more green than it was with the original GTIA. For example, the BASIC terminal looks teal instead of blue.
  7. Socketed the GTIA. No changes. I also re-socketed the small chip to the left of it which came to me already socketed. I doubt this is from the factory though because there were scorches all over the pins on the underside. It's cleaned up now and looking much better, but still doesn't work. Also tried adding ChildOfCv's suggested lines to the program. No change. Completely unrelated to the topic, but does anyone know where I can find screws like the ones found in these old Ataris? I've got a few with missing screws. None of my local hardware stores have anything like them. Machine screws are small enough but the threading is too narrow. Wood screws come closer to having the right threading but they're always too long.
  8. With the keyboard unplugged it boots to self test just as before. I ran your program and it just prints 1, no matter what combination of function keys I press. Even if I unplug the keyboard it still just prints 1.
  9. Alright so I gut a 27C128 OS replacement chip from Nezgar, was finally able to socket it in, and there's absolutely no change. So I guess it's safe to say that the OS is fine.
  10. Left it running for about 4 hours like you said but no dice. It was interesting to see my Basic prompt cycle through a bunch of colors, didn't know old 8-bit machines like this had screensavers. Those labels I put on the cable are mine and are correct, it was the colors of the connectors that confused me. Like composite being red and audio being yellow. Heat shrink! That's so obvious, that would've made it way easier to test. From what I can tell, my Ingot is fine. The voltages are okay and it powers the 130XE on just like my new power supply. Though, I've also been told the Ingot isn't very trustworthy and can start and stop working on a whim. Really? Ingots just sometimes don't deliver power? I was under the impression they could kill Ataris. The OS ROM going wrong makes sense. I don't have an EPROM burner, but I've got about six other non-working vintage machines sitting in my closet that I haven't gotten to yet, so that might be a good investment. PM'ed
  11. Thought I'd ask here before attempting to desolder a >30 year old board. I've got an Atari 130XE that shows a blank blue screen on boot for a few seconds before going straight to the self test menu but doesn't start any test. All buttons on this menu are unresponsive. (video) The only cart I have is an UnoCart, which the 130XE will boot to instead of the self test and everything seems to be working fine, keyboard included. I uploaded Basic onto the UnoCart and am able to launch and use Basic in this way, so I guess that's a workaround for now if I really want to use Basic. From here, I can type in the "BYE" command to launch the self test manually, but unfortunately in this application all keys are unresponsive still. One possible culprit is the infamous "Ingot" which is the power brick that came with it. The first few times I powered the 130XE on, it booted to Basic as normal until one time it started booting to self test instead and has ever since. I've since replaced my Ingot with a newly-built power supply, so my Ingot shouldn't be damaging any more Ataris in the future. Another possible culprit is my careless use of the video out. I bought a cable that splits the output to composite, luma, chroma, and audio. The connectors seem like they're colored all wrong, so I was pretty confused when plugging it into my TV and got the wires crossed a few times. I didn't think that this could hurt my 130XE at all, but I might've been wrong. I took the thing apart to clean and inspect the insides. The most notable thing I found is that there's these two loose wires going across the board. Looks quite unprofessional, why not just put this lead in the PCB? Moreover, the pins they're connected to are soldered together on the underside. Any idea what's going on?
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