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About hasanc

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  1. The user manual at https://retrohax.net/the-mouster-project-is-here/ says that it'll look for /mouSTer/mouSTer.fw firmware update but only when /mouSTer/mouSTer.ini is not present. Maybe that was happening to you? Also, I don't remember having to use port 2 to update the firmware or configuration. Anyways, glad you made it work
  2. It might be my case as well (800XL NTSC). I'm curious now, I'll check the voltages and try to match these values: https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/design/technical-documents/tutorials/1/1184.html NTSC S-Video PAL S-Video Setup 53.57mV Setup 0mV Y 714.29mV (Peak Luma, 100% White) Y 700.00mV (Peak Luma, 100% White) C 626.70mVP-P (75% Color Bars) 835.60mVP-P (100% Color Bars C 663.80mVP-P (75% Color Bars) 885.10mVP-P (100% Color Bars Sync -286.00mV Sync -300.00mV
  3. I didn’t know, I’ll install one. Thanks! Maybe it’d explain why colors look a bit washed out in my 800XL.
  4. Hi, could you help me understand this part? I don’t know what switch I need to toggle. This is the Antonia board revision I have on my Atari 600XL: It’s the ROM jumper that is removed to put Antonia in recovery mode? I should put it back in place while Atari is still turned on and waiting at the “Toggle switch…” prompt?
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  6. Today I finished the Atari 600XL A/V mod by removing the RF modulator and installing a 3.5mm audio jack (I was planning to also include composite video since it's a TRRS connector, but for now it's only for audio): Cheers!
  7. Fortunately that’s also my case. There’s no mechanical stress on the sliding button tabs during normal operation, they’re there only to keep the buttons from falling off, so I hope they won’t break again anytime soon.
  8. Thanks for the suggestions! I went with Gorilla super glue to repair this broken tab in my 2600 Jr’s Color/BW sliding button: It was quite challenging (for me) to glue the broken piece back in place using super glue, but I made it: Taking a closer look you can see a “hair line” where the pieces were glued together: The button is now fully functional and it’s nearly impossible to tell it was ever broken: I’m very happy with the results 🙂
  9. LM-302 looks exactly like Andonstar ADSM302 that many people were recommending when I was looking for a microscope. The image quality is good and there’s enough space to use your soldering iron.
  10. What kind of glue did you use? It’s still holding fine?
  11. Got it. In such case, I guess it shouldn't be too hard to create an auto-bootable disk or cartridge to let me reset or change resolutions easily when I have no video signal (e.g. by blindly pressing 1, 2, 3, etc. on the keyboard to try out different resolutions).
  12. I wasn’t aware of the video signal out of range issue, that’s worrying, I’ll have to figure out what to do. Meanwhile, I was watching your videos to learn how to remove the RF modulator (without damaging the motherboard) since I was planning to install an audio jack there, but maybe I could also add composite video (using mini DIN?) in case I lose the DVI signal.
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