hasanc

Check this out: https://youtu.be/hGBwC0y-pnE

You could also try using an USB cable. It works fine on my 600 and 800XL with a few extensions attached (e.g. SIDE 3 and FujiNet).

what crimp tool did you use?

The user manual at https://retrohax.net/the-mouster-project-is-here/ says that it'll look for /mouSTer/mouSTer.fw firmware update but only when /mouSTer/mouSTer.ini is not present. Maybe that was happening to you? Also, I don't remember having to use port 2 to update the firmware or configuration. Anyways, glad you made it work

It might be my case as well (800XL NTSC). I'm curious now, I'll check the voltages and try to match these values: https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/design/technical-documents/tutorials/1/1184.html NTSC S-Video PAL S-Video Setup 53.57mV Setup 0mV Y 714.29mV (Peak Luma, 100% White) Y 700.00mV (Peak Luma, 100% White) C 626.70mVP-P (75% Color Bars) 835.60mVP-P (100% Color Bars C 663.80mVP-P (75% Color Bars) 885.10mVP-P (100% Color Bars Sync -286.00mV Sync -300.00mV

I didn’t know, I’ll install one. Thanks! Maybe it’d explain why colors look a bit washed out in my 800XL.

Hi, could you help me understand this part? I don’t know what switch I need to toggle. This is the Antonia board revision I have on my Atari 600XL: It’s the ROM jumper that is removed to put Antonia in recovery mode? I should put it back in place while Atari is still turned on and waiting at the “Toggle switch…” prompt?

Step 3 in 800XL NTSC:

1. Beeblebrox 2. invisible kid 3. Philsan 4. Sub(Function(:)) 5. Spancho 6. CAVOKER 7. 8bitguy1 8. Roydea6 9. pps 10. CharlieChaplin 11. Lord Thag 12. Wilheim 13. Dinadan67 14. TrekMD 15. martinez 16. Ndary 17. Oldyoldson 18. Hurrican 19. a6502 20. Allan 21. hasanc

Today I finished the Atari 600XL A/V mod by removing the RF modulator and installing a 3.5mm audio jack (I was planning to also include composite video since it's a TRRS connector, but for now it's only for audio): Cheers!

Fortunately that’s also my case. There’s no mechanical stress on the sliding button tabs during normal operation, they’re there only to keep the buttons from falling off, so I hope they won’t break again anytime soon.

Thanks for the suggestions! I went with Gorilla super glue to repair this broken tab in my 2600 Jr’s Color/BW sliding button: It was quite challenging (for me) to glue the broken piece back in place using super glue, but I made it: Taking a closer look you can see a “hair line” where the pieces were glued together: The button is now fully functional and it’s nearly impossible to tell it was ever broken: I’m very happy with the results ?

LM-302 looks exactly like Andonstar ADSM302 that many people were recommending when I was looking for a microscope. The image quality is good and there’s enough space to use your soldering iron.

What kind of glue did you use? It’s still holding fine?

Got it. In such case, I guess it shouldn't be too hard to create an auto-bootable disk or cartridge to let me reset or change resolutions easily when I have no video signal (e.g. by blindly pressing 1, 2, 3, etc. on the keyboard to try out different resolutions).

I wasn’t aware of the video signal out of range issue, that’s worrying, I’ll have to figure out what to do. Meanwhile, I was watching your videos to learn how to remove the RF modulator (without damaging the motherboard) since I was planning to install an audio jack there, but maybe I could also add composite video (using mini DIN?) in case I lose the DVI signal.

Thanks for the link! I’m restoring an Atari 2600 Jr and after recapping, replacing power/video connectors and reflowing solder joints, I tried the Blue Jean Cables suggested by @Nathan Strum on his blog. The video signal now looks really good and I haven’t yet put the RF shield back in place! The fuzziness also brings back good memories, so I’m going to keep it as it is ?

Thanks for your suggestion about Gerber file format, I'll keep it in mind next time! and yes, it was pretty cheap to manufacture them, I paid around 13 USD total (including shipping from China) for 5 PCBs, but they sent me 10 PCBs for some reason ?

Thanks! The RF modulator is working fine but stuck at channel 3 and the RF shield doesn't fit anymore (Sophia 2 is maybe 1 or 2mm too tall? so a low-profile DIP socket for GTIA/Sophia 2 might help?).

I made it using kiCad. First time doing a PCB so it's far from perfect but it's working for me. Here are the Gerbers and BOM for those interested: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/jae-electronics/DC2R019JA7R1700/5823252 https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1-215079-6/1860391 Sophia 2 HDMI Breakout Rev 1.2.zip

I finally got around to install Sophia 2 into my Atari 600XL NTSC. Since I didn't want to make any destructive changes, I made a simple mini HDMI breakout board and installed it where the RF channel 2/3 switch was located. Here are some pictures of the installation: I hope it's interesting or useful to people that might want to do something similar. Now it's time to figure out how to get audio output ? Regards, Carlos

I just wanted to mention, for anyone interested, that it’s possible to use RGBtoHDMI on Atari 8 bit computers with this additional board. I think it’s mentioned in their documentation. A-VideoBoard documentation says that it uses an FPGA to recreate parts of the GTIA, enough of it to be able to generate an analog YPbPr video signal, so it isn’t a full GTIA replacement like Sophia.

I think you can use it together with c0pperdragon’s A-VideoBoard to have HDMI output on Atari 8-bit computers: https://github.com/c0pperdragon/A-VideoBoard It generates YPbPr video signal that you can convert to HDMI using hoglet67’s RGBtoHDMI board.