Heatvent

I am guessing I somehow uploaded a blank img file to the roms partition and wiped it out. So trying to work around this. I played around with the startup.sh file and tried to copy the data in the various partitions on the console to directories on the USB drive in the same fashion as is done with the /emulator folder. Below is the modified startup.sh. Strangely, all the other directories (misc, recovery, etc. are all empty). Not sure why the contents can't be copied. The /emulator folder works, not sure why the others wouldn't. I assume this has to do with permissions or some kind of protection. Copying to the /emulator folder doesn't seem to work either. My guess is you have to upload an image to overwrite the partition. Still strange how the emulator and roms folder are abled to be copied ... perhaps this was changed in the customer firmware image somehow. #!/bin/sh if [ ! -d /media/usbhd-sda1/misc ] then su - mkdir /media/usbhd-sda1/misc cp -r /misc/* /media/usbhd-sda1/misc fi if [ ! -d /media/usbhd-sda1/recovery ] then su - mkdir /media/usbhd-sda1/recovery cp -r /recovery/* /media/usbhd-sda1/recovery fi if [ ! -d /media/usbhd-sda1/boot ] then su - mkdir /media/usbhd-sda1/boot cp -r /boot/* /media/usbhd-sda1/boot fi if [ ! -d /media/usbhd-sda1/resource ] then su - mkdir /media/usbhd-sda1/resource cp -r /resource/* /media/usbhd-sda1/resource fi if [ ! -d /media/usbhd-sda1/kernel ] then su - mkdir /media/usbhd-sda1/kernel cp -r /kernel/* /media/usbhd-sda1/kernel fi if [ ! -d /media/usbhd-sda1/rootfs ] then su - mkdir /media/usbhd-sda1/rootfs cp -r /rootfs/* /media/usbhd-sda1/rootfs fi if [ ! -d /media/usbhd-sda1/emulator ] then su - cp /emulator/menu_launcher.sh /media/usbhd-sda1/menu_launcher_on_console.sh mkdir /media/usbhd-sda1/emulator cp -r /emulator/* /media/usbhd-sda1/emulator fi while : do cd /media/usbhd-sda1/emulator startx ./retromenu done

Ok, some goofed something up. I tried using the RKDevTool Download Image tab to see if I could download an image of the rom partition. Unfortunately, it seems to have erased the files on the roms partition or maybe corrupt them because my games are gone without the usb drive. Not sure if there is a way to copy from the SD card to the rom partition to undo this. I reflashed the device and same thing. I then reapplied the customer firmware image. The rom folder it dumps is empty. I could edit the menu_launcher.sh script to restore the games but I am unfamiliar with how to repackage the .img file. I could also end the startup.sh script but not sure where / how to remount original rom partition so I can copy to it (was unmounted by menu_launch.sh). If someone could help me undo my screwup that would be appreciated.

Couple of questions... Is there a way for me to copy the 0.1.7 img off the console? I would be interested in copying everything to the onboard nand storage, is there a way to do that and have it updated with my own list of custom games, theme, etc. without the need for a USB drive? thanks!

Hi, wondering what version of the firmware the custom firmware is based on. I just picked up the Atari Flashback X Deluxe (AR3060S) and it came with version 0.1.7 of the firmware. Latest on AtGames firmware portal is 0.1.5 so I don't know what is different / changed. It takes games via USB but no box art. I would also add that they revised the board a bit. The reset button is no longer on the top of the board and was relocated to the bottom of the board with a couple of wires going back to the top of the PCB. There is also a small reset hole on the bottom so you can press the button without opening the case. None of this of course was updated on the customer facing firmware portal.

So I goofed on may have downgraded thinking this was just a bad numbering scheme. I actually bought two of these and I initially tried using the USB with 0.1.7 but I think it was the USB stick on why it didn't work. I up/downgraded to 0.1.5 and didn't work either so I ended up formatting a few sticks and got one to work. I went back to the other flashback which still has 0.1.7 and it worked on that one too. Is there any way to download the firmware from the flashback so I can flash back to the one I up/down graded? I sent a request into At Games to update their website so hopefully at some point 0.1.7 will be available if that doesn't work. Not sure what the differences are but seems like the same interface and games so it must be behind the scenes bug fixes. Probably for performance / lag improvement if I had to guess looking at some of the complaints.

So I bought the AR3060S. It came with fw ver 0.1.7. On atgames the version for this model is 0.1.5. I tried to see if games showed up since this at first appearance would be a newer firmware? However, no luck. I also can seem to get the RK Dev tool to recognize it when rebooting in recover mode. Couple of other interesting things are the reset but on mine was relocated to the underside of the board and accessible through a reset hole on the bottom. I am able to get to recovery mode ... with HDMI connected I get a menu with Reboot, reboot to bootloader, apply update from adb, apply update from SD card, factor reset, etc. Not sure what is going on here but thought I would check if upgrading to 0.1.5 makes sense before I blow away 0.1.7? Also, is there some trick to flashing this revision? Thanks!

Good call. So on the Wii2HDMI the two mode pins (8 and 10) have a connecting trace so they are shorted which would put the Wii in component video mode. The board I have does not have the Wii input pads labeled but the video above does. I think this also explains why in the Wii AV Pinout, Pin 3 is labeled as composite video. However, in the video the Retro Frank's Wii2HDMI is labeled and the corresponding pin on the Wii2HDMI board is labeled as NC. So while there are pins in the connector for composite video, doesn't seem like the Wii2HDMI can deal with it. So it looks like you need a RGB component signal for this to work (maybe another $75 for one of these https://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=210&rn=552&action=show_detail) :(. I guess I at least learned something!

I am aware of the Retrotink and it is the gold standard for connecting to modern equipment. I would be happy with just good results and an easy way to connect into my receiver with all my other stuff under the TV with the one HDMI cable going from the receiver to the TV. Composite would be fine, just trying to avoid yet another wire running up the wall to the back of the TV (receiver would get audio). Regarding the jailbars, I don't think my cable is the best but I see the exact same results with the Flashback 2. That probably has cheap cables as well but I am thinking it has to with the signal/upscaling and I don't have a way to easily swap the cable for the UAV since one end of the composite cable is cut off and soldered to the board for audio and connected to the screw terminals on the UAV for video and ground (did not install RCA jacks just a direct wired composite cable). I think this is also a bit of proof of concept for me. I had the Wii2HDMI already and opening the case was simple ... just hit the Wii connector end against my hand and the board popped out the other end of the casing. The input pads on the Wii2HDMI board are easily accessible and have all the necessary connections so fairly simple to solder wires to and connect to the UAV screw terminals for testing. I am also pretty sure there might be some advantages to the Wii2HDMI vs other upscalers in that it runs off of 5v and I don't believe draws much in terms of amps so possible could be powered by the Atari and I supports 4:3 aspect ratio (I think) where a lot of / all of the less expensive upscalers support 16:9 only. I rechecked my wiring and things look to be correct. Not sure if there is an issue with the video signal put out by the 2600 that the Wii2HDMI doesn't recognize it as an appropriate signal so it doesn't try to convert. I have tried connecting both composite video and S-video to the input pads of the Wii2HDMI but so far no joy. I also tried connecting the device to a Wii and it seems to be working.

OK, so I saw this youtube video where the guy made is own Xbox OG HDMI adapter by replacing the connector on a Wii2HDMI... I have one of these (Wii2HDMI) because I was originally going to do this but never got around to it. So I am currently struggling with a good way to get my UAV output into my 11 yr old TV. Nothing I have has S-Video input. I tried running composite to my receiver which then converts to HDMI but for some reason I get jailbars. I originally thought it was the UAV, but I tried with a Flashback 2 hooked up and get the same results so it is definitely something the receiver is doing when converting the signal. I can pass through composite video which is fine but need to fish a RCA cable through the wall between receiver and TV (FYI, tried this with RCA cable and no jail bars). Then I thought what if I could connect the UAV S-video to the Wii2HDMI ... maybe that would work better! Certainly for my and many out there HDMI is the only thing being used these days. Pinout for the Wii AV connector is here http://www.hardwarebook.info/Wii_A/V. I tried connecting pins 7 to Luma and 9 to Chroma and of course ground to ground. I powered the Wii2HDMI with an external USB power adapter with +/- soldered to pins 4 and 12 on the Wii2HDMI. So far no luck. I also tried connecting pin 3 to composite video. Maybe I am missing something and there is some reason this would/should not work. Although I am hoping it will and if I can power the Wii2HDMI adapter off of the 5V on the Atari even better (tried this but was getting 3.8V for some reason instead of 5V so I went to the external power). Any thoughts ideas, etc. would be apprciated!

Just to close the loop... My issue was originally the 4050. When I replaced it, Pin 9 on the IC socket was flaky. I reflowed the solder on that pin and my issues seem to have gone away! I ended up cutting the jumper pins on the UAV about half way down to make room for the CD4050 above. I slightly bent the pins that needed to be jumped for a 2600 and soldered the tips together, then mounted the 4050 above. So now the UAV is an all-in-one plugin option. Thanks for all the help!

I think I may have a faulty IC socket. I noticed some intermittent voltages on pin 9. The socket seems to have good continuity to the board but the connection with the leg of the IC chip seems a bit flaky. This is likely my issue with the voltage dropping for the P1 fire button. Not sure if the UAV pins deformed the IC socket connectors which are fairly cheap. Bending the connectors back a little seems to have improved the connection. I have been struggling with a plan to mount the CD4050 and the UAV. I didn't really like the IC socket soldered on top of the CD4050. Mainly because it was difficult to remove without desoldering the CD4050. I would rather have an IC socket in the motherboard rather than soldering / desoldering these old pads/traces. If I had another IC socket I would probably socket both the CD4050 and then solder a second IC socket on top of the CD4050 because it would be easier to service if needed and the 4050's are very cheap. I also considered mounting the CD4050 on top of the UAV above the jumpers which the instructions mention as an option. However, the legs on the CD4050 don't seem long enough to clear the jumpers and make contact to the UAV PCB board pins. Not sure if there is something different about the jumper pins on mine like they are taller or the legs on the CD4050 that I have are shorter, but there is a good amount of distance (1mm or so) between the legs and the solder joints on the UAV. Another option I saw was to mount the CD4050 on the underside of the board and solder to the legs of the IC socket poking through the board and cut off the legs on the CD4050 (I think this is called the dead bug approach). I didn't really like this approach because, again, this seems like it would be difficult to desolder and I don't want to risk damaging the board if I need to do so (especially given that this seems to be a bit of a trouble spot on the light sixers). The CD4050 on top of the UAV sounds the best option since I could just leave it on the UAV (I don't plan to change the jumpers), unplug and plug in a CD4050 to the IC socket. Maybe I will look into removing the pin jumpers and connect these permanently so the CD4050 can be mounted on top of the UAV. Not sure what others have done.

Yes, I saw that thread and the fix was to pull up or cut off pins 6/7 and/or pins 9/10 legs for the offending fire button and jumper the pads together to bypass using the 4050 and pass the 4.9v directly through to the TIA. This is in part the reason for my question on the UAV being able to "replace" the 4050 and just plug-in to the socket (which is mentioned by Bryan in post #12 as well as in the instructions / features of the plug-in version of the UAV). However, I don't think the UAV plugin version can simply replace the 4050 on a light sixer like mine where the fire buttons are going to the 4050 (unless it passes through pin 7 to 6 and 9 to 10)? I know I at least tried running Combat with the 4050 out and the UAV installed and both P1 an P2 started firing repeatedly. This makes sense if the UAV is not shorting these pins since pins 6 and 10 and would have no connection/voltage. Correct me if I am wrong but there are no jumper settings on the UAV to do this and with just the UAV installed the fire pins are essentially cut off. I could probably solder the pins together either on on the UAV or the underside of the board to accomplish this and not need a 4050 installed. This may be a good option since I don't plan to use RF and if I bridge the pins on the UAV, this would easily be reversible by simply unplugging the UAV and plugging in a 4050.

So it looks like the issue is my CD4050 has only 3.6V on pin 1. The 7805 has 5V coming off of it and I get 4.9V in the CD4050 input pins so I will have to try to figure out why the low voltage on the CD4050. I assume when I fix that, the output pins will go up to 4.9V rather than 3.6V. I also went back in this thread and noticed some comments that the UAV can replace the CD4050. Although I am a bit confused unless there are PCB versions with a CD4050 but the fire buttons don't buffer through it. I tried just using the UAV in place of the CD4050 and both players were firing since the 4.9V wasn't being passed to the output pins. Wondering if one option is just to bypass the CD4050 altogether and use the UAV for video and put diode/caps on the fire pins. Here is the original post I am referring to:

Quick update... I got the new 4050 yesterday and tried it. The P2 fire button seemed to be working fine, however, strangely the P1 fire button was constantly firing. I measured the voltage on the pins on the 4050. Pin 7 was at 4.94 v and pin 6 was somewhere around 3.5-3.6. Pin 9 was floating a bit between 4.8 and 4.9x (which I think was causing the firing to happen) and pin 10 was something like 3.5-3.6. With the game running and P1 firing, attaching the probes from the multimeter seemed to stop the firing and then it stabilized above 4.9v which seems to be the high/low trigger point on the TIA chip. I didn't have time to spend on it so it was a quick once over and I could be missing something but a couple of questions.. Any ideas on the floating pin 9? What could cause this? The 3.5-3.6v on pins 6 and 10 seem strange to me ... any ideas if there is something else I should be looking at like I have a short or bad component somewhere? I will try to spend some more time on it tonight, I did this late last night. Thanks

Awesome tips. Along the lines of what I was thinking and was a bit concerned the glue on the tape would be an issue. Thank you!