wierd_w

A more interesting solution would be to make a mini-backplane card and enclosure. Basically, it takes the card edge connector and turns it 90 degrees so that it is facing upwards, and provides several of these, while still passing through out the other side. From there, you could "vertically" install the Tipi+32k (speech synth enclosure version), AND a speech synth, (since the vertical space needed to mount this way would still work out fine), and just terminate the vertical card edges with rubber boots. Cards could be held in registration with simple slots/notches in the enclosure wall. The issue with the JediMatt versions of those cards is that the cards themselves are taller than the main unit (and already integrate a 90 degree conversion), so the enclosure is going to look funny. For the speech enclosure varieties though, they are meant to lay horizontal in a very narrow enclosure, so even turning them upright like that would still not exceed the vertical realestate allowances.

Changing bus speed changes the characteristics of the snow somewhat. Still all garbled up. I am gonna throw in the towel. I soldered in the female pin headers (and tested continuity over my solder job, so I know it's good), and have tried everything in my assortment from 1.1uH to 150uH, with some improvement (if you can call it that) in the ~40-50uH range. I would clearly need a scope to properly see what is going on here. It is likely at this point that either the associated cap, or some other cap in this circuit is damaged, but not obviously so. It's not really worth digging this far down the rabbit hole. I will just get a different socket 7 from fleabay that has been tested as working.

that part is easy. The Cosplay kids have been doing that for years. Method 1 Method 2

This needs to be added to the various collections out there for completeness, and analysis.

No, I do not have a plexiglass enclosure. This is most likely what is contributing most to the deformation/warping of the nylon when it comes to tall prints. This printer is a very early offering from JGAurora, and is not enclosed, nor designed to be enclosed. It's really made for PLA. Its hot-end gets hot enough to do other stuff, but it suffers from the lack of a controlled temperature enclosure.

Interesting, but I think I will stick with Basilisk II for when I need to mess with old classic mac software.

I interrupted the print, because one of my darling kitties knocked the print spool down, and it jacked everything up. Apparently seeing filament jiggle was too much of a temptation for her to pass up. (My filament spool is top mounted on top of the unit, so it made a loud crash.) Enough printed though to get a feel for assembly. The good: The stand-off based screwdown fastening works great on holding the clamshell together. Proof-of-concept confirmed for using the standoffs to hold the RF shield together inside the enclosure. The modeled-in support structures were quite good at supporting the long bridging needed for the cartridge port hole on the top half of the clamshell, and did not adhere to the bridge. Very nice. The OK-ish: I need to give a teensy bit more clearance for the bottom RF shield (lengthwise and widthwise) as it just BARELY fits in there, with lots of wrangling. I am thinking an added .25mm clearance each way will fix it. There is just barely enough threads exposed in the clamshell screws to catch the M3 standoffs. Longer screw threads are advised. The bad: The third hole needs to be moved to the left by a good half millimeter. Does not align with installed board. Not sure how I bunged that up so bad, but apparently I did. It's an easy fix though. The can-be-ignored: As expected, the nylon has distorted while printing. This only seems to happen with nylon. I am at the point now where I think I could get away with a PLA run on the printing, after these final adjustments. I have a whole spool of black ABS. I am thinking I can get it to stick if I mix a tiny amount of acetone and black toner powder to the PVA glue I usually use. That will dissolve the toner in the pva glue (while still allowing it to easily be peeled off), and give a compatible material for the ABS to stick to. Worth an experimental run. However, I understand that ABS warps just as bad as nylon does. I may have to order up some PLA. Phone battery is dead; will take pictures after it charges.

If all you need/want it for is to get a directory listing, wrapping it over a telnet or other text-friendly session seems totally doable. You get https support and pals that way.

I just use the bluetooth keyboard I got as part of the "phone wallet" I got for my samsung 5S many moons ago, with the Eltechs windows emulator. It's basically WINE along with their proprietary x86 emulator, but it is good enough to do a LOT of things. Just about any windows title from the 90s works just fine (there are exceptions-- things that need opengl do not seem to work well/at all... but directX things work just fine. Go figure). Mouse input is handled with the touchscreen, and keyboard works fine with bluetooth. The keyboard has velcro on the back, and stays in the phone wallet. For emulating old systems, I actually was really quite amused by the nintendo Wii. (Yes. The nintendo wii.) There is version of dosbox that works approximately on par with a 386, a version of UAE, and many classic console emulators for it. It is designed to fit in your living room already. Its wiimote works as mouse input in basically any emulator that supports mice. (and most support real mice too.) Real USB keyboards can be attached, as can real external USB storage.

ooooooh. That is nice. You should be able to construct a wirewrap board out of that. Since there is a 16k board, there should be enough address bits left over to drive a mapper chip on what otherwise acts like a 4k board. I think a vastly improved board should be possible. Do you have one for the cartridge slot itself? I see that it is indeed an 8bit data bus, but the address line nomenclature is confusing. It looks like it has more than 20 bits of addressing though, so it should be possible to have over 1mb of ram installed. More if you use a mapper like I suggest. (a lot more.)

I dont care what people say, Woz is why Apple became a thing. You could replace Jobs with any other aggressive salesman; Woz could not have been replaced. His highly inventive use of COTS circuits to get maximal utilitarian value for the smallest price, and still produce a high quality design, is not a thing that is easily taught, and it came almost naturally to Woz. The apple 1 was a freaking FEAT of genius.

The joys of being both an essential worker, AND making <30k/yr, means that even the tightwads in congress cant refuse giving me checks it seems. (all the more political I will be on the matter.) Other than worrying about food and other essentials getting more expensive as the year moves on, I am doing OK, and the stimulus is basically just motivation to keep going to work. (It is very emotionally and physically draining to work under these kinds of conditions; More than once, I have wondered how it would have been to just stay home instead.) Regardless, my doom-o-meter is pegging for the winter, so I am being industrious ant, and putting stuff away. Just processed and froze 3 pints of tomatoes from my garden a little bit ago. I will probably use another check (if it happens) to further stock the larder with bread flour, noodles, salt, dry cereals, etc...

Seriously-- Just build one. It's probably gonna be cheaper. https://imgur.com/gallery/ku9zlNu

what old lady? I have no such problem. Last round went to new tires on my winter vehicle though. This round, will probably go to stocking the deepfreeze for the winter.

Took the time tonight (since I took a week off work for my sanity, and since it was my b-day yesterday) to fully measure with caliper today. Made a set of models. They will take 3 days to print. I modeled in the support materials, so I told the slicer not to generate any. that should ease cleanup considerably. Both top and bottom will print simultaneously in the same run on this go-around.

I will do the needful on them then System Additions.dskSystem Startup.dsk OH!! And look what I found!! https://www.fenestrated.net/mirrors/Apple_Support_Area/Apple_Software_Updates/English-North_American/Macintosh/System/Older_System/ It's a mirror of what apple's support FTP site had in it, BITD!! All KINDS of goodies in there!

Looks like system 7.1, judging from the disks in the set. But also comes with hypercard and pals. Noice. Keep them in a safe place, and make backups.

The 1.72mb format is the microsoft DMF format. Mac did not natively support it until 7.5.3, with PC exchange. And Ed, you're such a cheapskate. That guy with the Compaq portable II? I bought his diskettes, bought kit to work with them, imaged 9 of them, and mailed them all to him at 0$ his cost. If I had a 1.44mb diskette drive that was in working order, I would be generating physical diskette sets. SPEAKING OF-- Hey, why aren't you making these yourself fella? Basilisk II has a working Mac port that should work fine on your OS9 jobber--- and it can utilize real diskette drives. The emulated system can thus generate all the diskettes you need; why am I going through all this hassle?!

Another option might be to use the "nonstandard" 1.72mb format on the disk.

OK. Gimme a minute. 6.0.8 System Startup.imgSystem Additions.img Straight from winworldpc.com Already in .img format. Try those.

Checking prices, those 78gb scsi drives I have are worth like, 70$ a pop!! (Boggle!!) I would still send one for the price of shipping though. I have plenty of foam to pack one in, but OP would still need to get an adapter.

(for the interested, just in general) SCSI stands for Small Computer Serial Interface. It is both a set of hardware specifications, and a protocol specification. Newer versions of the protocol are backward compatible, meaning newer devices can attach to an older Host Bus Adapter (HBA). Architecturally, SCSI uses Logical Units, which each get a Number, and it is this logical numbering on the HBA that is used to address the device. This designator is called the LUN. (Logical Unit Number) The specification allows for more than just hard disks or optical drives to be attached. It is a fully functional system bus, and so there are radical things like ethernet controllers, multi-IO controllers, and pals-- that were designed to live on a SCSI HBA. For more standard devices, like disk drives, there is a standard for data exchange. (Similar in concept (at a high level of abstraction anyway) to HID mass storage class on USB bus. As long as the connected storage device speaks HID Mass-storage, a generic driver works just fine. SCSI hard disks basically all speak the same language.) Much like with IDE, which has multiple IO modes that can be used to access devices (PIO modes 0 through 4, various DMA modes, ATAPI CD, et al), SCSI also has multiple modes, based on revisions of the protocol used. Since HDDs need to be able to speak to some arbitrary HBA, the manufacturers bake in support for older versions of those protocols. (Much like an EIDE drive that has support for ultra-dma mode 5, can still work at PIO mode 0, if that is all the connected IDE controller can handle.) Due to this backward compatibility being baked in, it is possible to use cable converters to attach more modern SCSI drives to older HBAs, (and vise versa.) The consequence is the slowdown of either the HBA or the SCSI drive. The typical legacy SCSI bus has 8 possible LUN IDs that can live on it, numbered 0 though 7. Each device is either jumper configured or software configured, to communicate on a specific LUN ID.

SCSI is a protocol, as well as a hardware stack. A SCSI disk, is a SCSI disk. (Sorta like a SATA disk is a SATA disk.) The issue is with the drive setup program checking for ident strings on the drive it finds on a SCSI LUN attached to its HBA. That is where the cracked HDSetup comes in. That enclosure would need an adapter, since it is much newer than the SCSI-1 HBA you would be attaching it to. Edit: Jeebus H Christ on a pogostick-- SCSI enclosures are outrageously expensive on Ebay!

I may consider doing this myself at some point in the distant future. The PEB I got from Globeron has an enormous transformer that doubles as a boat anchor. I can just imagine what that would do to my electricity bill.

Assuming the "Disk Command" opcodes are the same (ahem), it looks like such a thing could exist, and would be a simple cable, more or less. See the pinouts. https://old.pinouts.ru/HD/macfloppy2_pinout.shtml https://old.pinouts.ru/HD/MacExtDrive_pinout.shtml The HDI-20 connector needs 4 +5v rails though. The external mac floppy connector supplies some additional power rails, but of the wrong voltages. It might be possible to put some buck DC-DC converters on some perfboard and get the other 3 +5v rails from the +12v rails. (If going in the OPPOSITE direction, with HDI-20 equipped mac, trying to use classic mac external floppy, some kind of crystal oscillator would probably be needed to drive pin 10. Since this kind of direction would need to support slower 800k drives, a switch to control which oscillator is driving pin 10 would be appropriate.)