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Brik_1111

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About Brik_1111

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    Combat Commando
  1. Quick question: Does it matter which specific wires of the blue connector go to pins 6 and 10? Either way around is okay?
  2. Thanks Taijigamer, you've been a tremendous help. I'll order one in and report back once it's installed and (hopefully) working.
  3. Yep, just probed the blue connector with a probe on each pin. We're 240v here in Australia, but I've been using a step down transformer so far for testing.
  4. Confirmed, less than 6v measured. Guess I'm buying that replacement from the other thread. Can offer any tips for wiring this? Looking at the spec sheet, which tabs do the blue and red wires connect to?
  5. Do you mean any of these two connectors disconnected from the board? Where do I probe for ground? Excuse the ignorance, I don't have much experience with AC.
  6. PHOTO'S HERE Hi all, apologies for the lengthy post but there’s a bit to explain. I recently received a broken FZ-1 that won’t turn on. From what I can tell, at least two others have been inside before me, which is never good. The power cable had been previously cut, with the copper simply twisted together and held with electrical tape. Capacitors 1, 35 and 36 had been replaced but with substandard soldering. While the pads were connecting to where they needed to go, the solder was dull and bumpy. Additionally, D2 was missing completely with R2 extremely corroded. So, I got to work properly repairing the power cable, soldering the copper together and covering the breaks with heat-shrink. I redid the caps even though there was continuity, replaced R2 and also D2 using a modern replacement suggested on this Russian forum (eighth post from the bottom). As you can see in the photos, the positive pad for C36 is a bit destroyed. There’s still continuity, however. At this point, the console still wasn’t turning on, so I started reading the service manual and technical guide. Following the flowchart on page 5-2 of the technical guide, I determined that the power switch was shorting as it’s supposed to when on/off and that the fuse was good. The next section of the flowchart asks if AC 10-18V is being outputted to both CN1 terminals – and it turns out that’s not the case. I measured only AC ~0.23V on both. Is this the smoking gun? I’ve never worked on a 3DO before. In fact, I’ve never checked AC on anything. I simply switched my multimeter to AC mode and checked the pins on CN1 while holding the negative probe to ground. Is that the correct procedure? On further chat with the guy who gave me the console, he thinks 240v may have been put through the system before he got it since we’re in Australia (the console is American). What does everyone think? Could it be that the PSU is rooted having had 240 put through it? Is there another way to check it besides from CN1? And if it is, does anyone have experience replacing these? I read this thread that talked about replacing the 110v one with a modern 240v equivalent. I should add that I’m of course testing with a step-down transformer. Alternatively, could the problem be something I’ve missed completely? Any input would be appreciated. Cheers.
  7. Hi everyone. I've been working on this broken 2600 Junior for the last week and since my huge amounts of research usually lead to this forum, you guys seem like the perfect bunch to ask since I'm now stuck. A bit of backstory: I believe this Jr. encountered some tough times as the RF shield is very rusty. It turned on, but only tuned to a black screen. So on opening it up, the board was a bit messy but it did clean up quite well using isopropyl and white vinegar. I also reflowed a bunch of solder joints that were looking a bit dull, but this didn't change anything. Just to clarify, the equipment I'm using to test this Atari (RF cable, game, power adaptor etc) have been confirmed with another working 2600 Jr I own. So, this rules out anything external - the problem lays somewhere in the Atari itself. Onwards with the research, I learnt that the power regulator is prone to failure. Reading the pins, 9.03v was measured on one although the other measured at 4.93v - pretty low. So, I replaced that and it now read 4.98v and 9.06v - much better! The 2600 still wasn't working, however, now showing a colourful garbled mess of static instead of a black screen. I then checked a few voltages over the board. 4.98v was tested going to the cartridge slot, the TIA, the RIOT 6532 and the CPU 6507. I also confirmed continuity to those chips by measuring between their Vss's and the ground pin of the vreg. This tells me the chips are powering on (I'm assuming 4.98v is adequate) but I do not own an oscilloscope to test that they're behaving as they should. For what it's worth, neither get too warm while the console is operating. Hoping that it's not any of the chips that are the problem, I scoured the board for anything that seemed out of place. Two components stood out to me; C38 and R43. The legs on both were corroded and the pads below were a bit of a mess. I have no means of testing the cap, but the resistor (when removed) measured about 8.8K oms, while according to the schematic it's supposed to be 9.1K. That was replaced easily enough, while the cap was replaced with a 0.1uF ceramic disk type - a recommendation I found in this thread: Here are some photos of the replacements soldered in. They soldered in fine from the bottom of the board, but do you think the pads on the top are too corroded? I couldn't get any solder to stick. I'm not sure if they connect to traces on the top or not and if a connection is being severed. If it helps, here are a few more photos I took of the board overall. Thanks for reading. I look forward to your answers!
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