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Voxel

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About Voxel

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  1. Thanks for coding this great game. I hope it reaches a wide audience.
  2. An image may help. I'll assume the VCS display is the same without the switch box in place and that the VCS has been tuned to it's own channel (if the CRT can store separate channels). Sounds like the VCS may need a tune up, however from the description it sounds like two possibilities, either the vertical sync on the CRT needs adjusting, (on newer CRT TV sets the vertical sync may be internal), or that the RF modulator needs adjusting, (the modulator requires gentle handling). Good luck!
  3. I've tinned contacts before. You get a wet sponge and quickly wipe off the excess solder.
  4. You need a "momentary push switch". You want something like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114618635604?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1aafcd9554:g:V7oAAOSwp29f92JE&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSR84A%252FGMxXIqJzFmDq6lDLl7JVoP%252BnicsNeLAFK4z0l%252BWNGivef9pi%252FzdLtjo5MKd0MAI939lRxl9doVZeXErlSKOH9GNfIPq0HfTa8sXa4XHHeXcLEwbevUtIkbqyp1oQv8oOgmb5lbrcIEbqGKwrYzT8VVMZcrFizHVhFVzHAYf9FYNX%252BblaGNWI3v8W%252FO2wjBKFNnEhitQpeH%252FMtqn3QVBTKiG7ItsUsGCljDjJ%252BBGhZVbB4H5rw06UUngkrpD8x9VE%252FDeQZzHXPRBK3RLxPtP8oc5IQiNLzwn%252F2cDXM87iTshBQLe7KW1YIGTfpuK%252FtR28tNRJVILsr6LvkiwgifFXJR5BuRWwxtuVJT%252B0dkvPr%252B5CQZmVvmVyD0LrdoY5V5GgBrxA6OXXaaDGgXXdmTADTJgL5gLtXCOINLinuj1ruJ6ruV25A3FlDhbilk3b4N4IamKkDmA6AdCWEgNqW6iqcMNaI8HetRJZASSNEs2bQpUfnFIG8dasjeAQ4hJo3cbLzeVKeXHc4MQ62ggCPj0yQuGOckELZsWzjsaLE040nzBYcIVV7J%252F5mYOpq6gazSNDzgn8tvDfdooHniSxMIq3l3exp3vFZAV9P2p7op4lTvsPwWc8z7O1osWWy6p8g2nHctpc4QiuirX2bGp0Mg6V73oEvzxam7sYbUmymEgXtBi2GqzGAPnl3tS2HaK%252BILk%252FLSif36ot7MJE35ILF%252BaW8Mv6k4PNnfxcpZuRzso9qOfrP5BbX9OdU0aAGijqMttlgz0DwrjVyZmmES74WT1XorMOFRToZV3Z4ZI9sSiU7bN0yjgKDwJGeNGB8Z3%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
  5. Great game! Here are a couple of images for the older beta 3 on a PAL CRT. Will try out Beta 4, when I get some time (in the same boat as Prizrak)
  6. If you enter a search in ebay (for example "atari 2600 power supply"), you'll get a few results. Most will be of the "switching" type. I would recommend a mono 3.5mm extension lead if you need more length. Expect the PSU to last a couple of years at least before failure. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&_nkw=atari+2600+power+supply&_sacat=0 You may also find a used "linear" type PSU that came with the console though due to age expect failure from use soon. If you can solder you can search for any PSU that puts out 9 volts and over 0.5 amps (no higher than 2 amps). You can then replace the connector with a mono 3.5mm plug.
  7. Stunning work! I once paid to have a 3D model of the VCS, despite my advice the result was a bit of a mish-mash. It's buried deep in a hard drive somewhere, would tweak it if I could make the time.
  8. Great info. This unit indicates that the original label has been covered there are a few signs and I've indicated the two best indicators: Left hand edge shows a vertical line where the rubbing indicates a label underneath The label has been removed near the middle indicating text underneath from the original label.
  9. Agreed, the Tac-2 is a great stick. Worth fixing. Brazing is an option, you can pick up a couple of cheap blow torches and the brazing rods. One torch is kept with the flame giving general heat, whilst the other is moved to focus the heat where you need it. There are plenty of videos on youtube. However you may prefer to glue and the best glue I could recommend is epoxy resin. Whilst it's yucky and gets everywhere it should suffice and if the parts in question are metal then you can even cure it with heat (<150 degrees centigrade) for a superior hold. Epoxy resin likes dry/clean/roughened mating surfaces. I've used epoxy in many stressed joints with metal and they've so far lasted.
  10. If in stock mode (64k) the XE display is functioning well (with <64k programs) then your GTIA and ANTIC should both be fine, but if the demos are accessing 128k or more then you'll need to check the memory upgrade. If so the images may be suggesting an issue with the bank switching (or bank switching modes used) in the demos, indicating the memory above the stock 64k is not being correctly accessed indicating a possible fault with the memory upgrade. I'd check the wiring, may just be dry solder joints or a flaky connection. Otherwise as suggested above you may need to swap out chips to check for the source of the fault.
  11. Just to clarify as previously advised by TGB1718, the 10K ohm + 1K ohm in parallel gives 909.0909 ohm's and in case you needed assurance your soldering of the two resistors looked fine. So if you feel ready before the 910ohm resistor arrives you should be fine.
  12. The very best RF lead I've found is the one Atari put out for the XL/XE home computer line. If you can find one cheap give it a try.
  13. The crystal is fine and does not need replacing. You'll notice there are relevant pads present for both types of crystals.
  14. In addition to the suggestions above, it's worth checking out the store for some great home-brews too.
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