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Voxel

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Everything posted by Voxel

  1. Thanks for coding this great game. I hope it reaches a wide audience.
  2. An image may help. I'll assume the VCS display is the same without the switch box in place and that the VCS has been tuned to it's own channel (if the CRT can store separate channels). Sounds like the VCS may need a tune up, however from the description it sounds like two possibilities, either the vertical sync on the CRT needs adjusting, (on newer CRT TV sets the vertical sync may be internal), or that the RF modulator needs adjusting, (the modulator requires gentle handling). Good luck!
  3. I've tinned contacts before. You get a wet sponge and quickly wipe off the excess solder.
  4. You need a "momentary push switch". You want something like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114618635604?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1aafcd9554:g:V7oAAOSwp29f92JE&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSR84A%252FGMxXIqJzFmDq6lDLl7JVoP%252BnicsNeLAFK4z0l%252BWNGivef9pi%252FzdLtjo5MKd0MAI939lRxl9doVZeXErlSKOH9GNfIPq0HfTa8sXa4XHHeXcLEwbevUtIkbqyp1oQv8oOgmb5lbrcIEbqGKwrYzT8VVMZcrFizHVhFVzHAYf9FYNX%252BblaGNWI3v8W%252FO2wjBKFNnEhitQpeH%252FMtqn3QVBTKiG7ItsUsGCljDjJ%252BBGhZVbB4H5rw06UUngkrpD8x9VE%252FDeQZzHXPRBK3RLxPtP8oc5IQiNLzwn%252F2cDXM87iTshBQLe7KW1YIGTfpuK%252FtR28tNRJVILsr6LvkiwgifFXJR5BuRWwxtuVJT%252B0dkvPr%252B5CQZmVvmVyD0LrdoY5V5GgBrxA6OXXaaDGgXXdmTADTJgL5gLtXCOINLinuj1ruJ6ruV25A3FlDhbilk3b4N4IamKkDmA6AdCWEgNqW6iqcMNaI8HetRJZASSNEs2bQpUfnFIG8dasjeAQ4hJo3cbLzeVKeXHc4MQ62ggCPj0yQuGOckELZsWzjsaLE040nzBYcIVV7J%252F5mYOpq6gazSNDzgn8tvDfdooHniSxMIq3l3exp3vFZAV9P2p7op4lTvsPwWc8z7O1osWWy6p8g2nHctpc4QiuirX2bGp0Mg6V73oEvzxam7sYbUmymEgXtBi2GqzGAPnl3tS2HaK%252BILk%252FLSif36ot7MJE35ILF%252BaW8Mv6k4PNnfxcpZuRzso9qOfrP5BbX9OdU0aAGijqMttlgz0DwrjVyZmmES74WT1XorMOFRToZV3Z4ZI9sSiU7bN0yjgKDwJGeNGB8Z3%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
  5. Great game! Here are a couple of images for the older beta 3 on a PAL CRT. Will try out Beta 4, when I get some time (in the same boat as Prizrak)
  6. If you enter a search in ebay (for example "atari 2600 power supply"), you'll get a few results. Most will be of the "switching" type. I would recommend a mono 3.5mm extension lead if you need more length. Expect the PSU to last a couple of years at least before failure. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&_nkw=atari+2600+power+supply&_sacat=0 You may also find a used "linear" type PSU that came with the console though due to age expect failure from use soon. If you can solder you can search for any PSU that puts out 9 volts and over 0.5 amps (no higher than 2 amps). You can then replace the connector with a mono 3.5mm plug.
  7. Stunning work! I once paid to have a 3D model of the VCS, despite my advice the result was a bit of a mish-mash. It's buried deep in a hard drive somewhere, would tweak it if I could make the time.
  8. Great info. This unit indicates that the original label has been covered there are a few signs and I've indicated the two best indicators: Left hand edge shows a vertical line where the rubbing indicates a label underneath The label has been removed near the middle indicating text underneath from the original label.
  9. Agreed, the Tac-2 is a great stick. Worth fixing. Brazing is an option, you can pick up a couple of cheap blow torches and the brazing rods. One torch is kept with the flame giving general heat, whilst the other is moved to focus the heat where you need it. There are plenty of videos on youtube. However you may prefer to glue and the best glue I could recommend is epoxy resin. Whilst it's yucky and gets everywhere it should suffice and if the parts in question are metal then you can even cure it with heat (<150 degrees centigrade) for a superior hold. Epoxy resin likes dry/clean/roughened mating surfaces. I've used epoxy in many stressed joints with metal and they've so far lasted.
  10. If in stock mode (64k) the XE display is functioning well (with <64k programs) then your GTIA and ANTIC should both be fine, but if the demos are accessing 128k or more then you'll need to check the memory upgrade. If so the images may be suggesting an issue with the bank switching (or bank switching modes used) in the demos, indicating the memory above the stock 64k is not being correctly accessed indicating a possible fault with the memory upgrade. I'd check the wiring, may just be dry solder joints or a flaky connection. Otherwise as suggested above you may need to swap out chips to check for the source of the fault.
  11. Just to clarify as previously advised by TGB1718, the 10K ohm + 1K ohm in parallel gives 909.0909 ohm's and in case you needed assurance your soldering of the two resistors looked fine. So if you feel ready before the 910ohm resistor arrives you should be fine.
  12. The very best RF lead I've found is the one Atari put out for the XL/XE home computer line. If you can find one cheap give it a try.
  13. The crystal is fine and does not need replacing. You'll notice there are relevant pads present for both types of crystals.
  14. In addition to the suggestions above, it's worth checking out the store for some great home-brews too.
  15. Nice game, a bit like playing roulette, you could add bonuses like an extra life.
  16. Ignorantly I gave mine away (two of them) so can't confirm, but back then the standard stereo mod churned out in the UK was the "Gumby" stereo mod. It should be a variation of that.
  17. Back in the 90's in the UK, Gralin International, were putting out a few modified XE's with 320K, the Ramrod XE upgrade and the upgraded PIA (6522 VIA) mod for the printer interface. It appears you may have purchased one from them. I've borrowed an image of yours and highlighted an area of your XE that shows good colour performance. I'm pretty certain if you look at the XE where the colours are not performing the difference in that area of the circuitry will be evident. For info if you look at post #12 of the thread below you may find your solution to the colour issue: From memory I'll explain it as, the electron beam has a frequency which results in the colour/intensity and if the timing circuit is not giving the colour circuit the ability to keep the frequency constant the colours on the screen are not constant so vary pixel by pixel (in a horizontal path) and in the case of the XE, it will not reproduce the desired result if the colour tuning circuit is not complete.
  18. If I was in the states I would be thinking that too. I'm of the opinion that an Atari Pong Doubles unit would have had the top case removed and switched with a Tele-Games Pong VI and shipped to Sears, with the Atari Pong Doubles top Alamogordo'd (just kidding). I'll be interested to see the board on this unit, to see what's been done even if it's not a Pong Doubles conversion, just curious.
  19. Great news! Pretty much covered by Keatah. That the VCS 2600 was once cutting edge has been replaced by the memory of it being a low end consumer item and so the current offerings are precisely that. The Noac (NES on a chip) has been used in VCS 2600 remakes, so if you get into coding the NES you can fix those ports. It's ironic that Nintendo should look to Atari to sell the NES and decades later the NES is sold under the Atari banner as a Noac for their VCS 2600 remakes.
  20. Currently there is no new offering which gives the complete experience of the actual console. I've just recently (since 2018), been getting back into the physical side of using the VCS 2600. There are still plenty for sale. You can opt for a cheaper VCS 2600 Jr as your daily driver and keep the Vader safe. Thanks to CV19, prices are lower than usual, so there are some cheap deals about and you may want to pick up more than one to nip your fear. Do also keep in mind that whilst a console can fail, that repair is also an option so please keep your console safe should that happen. There is a small developing cottage industry in the retro gaming scene and assistance is available, it's also a patience game finding parts and getting the know how to do a repair.
  21. Should have added that with a little work it would be possible to disconnect the built in potentiometers and add connectors so you can plug in external controllers. You could also then make your own controllers and use "B1M" type potentiometers.
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