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Everything posted by Voxel

  1. As you're proposing to bypass the regulator, you're opening a pathway that can be used by any unsuspecting individual. I'd not recommend this, however... If the 5 volt input is regulated, then yes. If the 5 volt input is not regulated then prepare and read up on repairs first.
  2. Been there; it's an insane place. I hope you put aside the cream of your collection should life push you in the direction to thin out.
  3. Try some bed time reading: http://www.robotsandcomputers.com/computers/manuals/atari2600_fsm.pdf
  4. I'm glad the unit is with someone that appreciates it.
  5. Some great hacks are available in the store too.
  6. Found I had bookmarked the old manual, you should be able to confirm things for yourself (it's a bit of a read). Hopefully my reply above is still relevant. http://www.robotsandcomputers.com/computers/manuals/atari2600_fsm.pdf
  7. R211, allows you to adjust the hues of your colour palette. On the RF modulator there will be a hole, giving access to a pot which lets you tweak the image. This can help improve an RF image on a TV and at the same time would improve the colour saturation. On the board, near the RF modulator should be an inductor (L101?), which would affect the actual colour performance, as your colours are saturated I think yours is working well. I'll go look for the old manual as it's good material to have and you may find it helpful.
  8. I'm not familiar with your level of electronics, in particular how not to get a high voltage shock from a TV set, so I'll ask if your TV has provision for the two spade connectors as well as the socket mounted chassis connector. I'll assume it was the chassis connector which came apart and maybe hope that you overlooked the spade connectors (if present) which an appropriate switch box would remedy. If not then composite video is your route. You can turn the colour on the TV down or delicate fine tuning of the RF pot inside the VCS may reduce this and clean up the image too as it can drift with age.
  9. There are some bargain priced games care of CV19, I hope you enjoy playing on you're VCS. Great times await. You'll be able to play pong with paddles via a Video Olympics cartridge. You'll play simpler versions of Galaxians, Centipede, Ms Pacman, Joust, Asteroids, Missile Command, Wizard of Wor etc, all great games. Also check out the store here for some great homebrews. If you purchase any games that don't agree with your gaming style, don't let them detract from the charms of the other games and the system as there were some poor games released. Time spent on checking game reviews will save you some disappointment (but not all).
  10. Thanks for posting the images, it's always nice to have sight of such items documented for those of us who are interested.
  11. Sounds very interesting. I hope it has expandable possibilities too, and on that note from a DIY angle can the traces on the board be a good size, as modern devices tend to have really thin traces, so makes it fiddly for me to work on them.
  12. Great to see it working and a rarer silver lined model too. Super Pong inside, that made me chuckle as somewhere I have a Pong top casing on a Super Pong, so kind of the same thing.
  13. Before you clean it up and hook it up, you can connect the bare wires from the console to the power connector of your adapter or put the jack connector across the "BATT" connector pins, on the main board with the word facing you, as per the image left is (+) and right is (-). You'll angle the jack about 45 degrees to touch both pins at the same time (you'll apply a bit of pressure). You should hear the console come to life (or attempt to, if you've not added enough pressure). This way when you do hook the connector up to power you'll know if it needs replacing. Also as the power connector is internal, you may just want to buy one with a similar sized nut and just replace the nut if that's the only part that needs changing from a cosmetic point of view. I've added another image for a chassis mount replacement, which is not to be confused with a similar type (that screws from the inside). This one has the nut from the top and you'll solder the connectors before mounting it.
  14. I'm with you on that one. You've hit your target 8-bit owning audience buddy!
  15. Interesting if that should be a common flaw. Good luck to both of you for a future fix.
  16. Many happy returns - wishing you a good one!
  17. Really nice find. Get ready for some PM enquiries...
  18. To begin with I'd check the soldering for continuity with a meter and make sure all the contacts are good (connector lead, switches, ground contacts etc). Then I'd follow through the audio circuit from the chip to the RF. It sounds like a nice console, so persevere and take your time and be methodical.
  19. If the PSU is an old one, it may be on the way out.
  20. I'll add: The plastic on the black is harder, so more scratch resistant, whilst the white being softer will scratch, which does not matter when mounted in an enclosure. I am sure the white plastic will harden more over time. The plastic on the white has a bigger elastic range (being softer), so more impact resistant though will puncture, (the black plastic is more brittle and will crack), which does not matter when mounted in an enclosure. No SIO sockets were harmed to confirm this observation. The connector pins are more rounded on the white. Both the black and the white fit very well to an SIO connector. I'm grateful to both foft and Sikor, for selling these to the community as they are prized parts amongst my Atari spares and perfect for my DIY needs.
  21. You've given you controller plenty of thought and cleats at the back look pretty good.
  22. Thanks for putting in the hard work and putting this all together.
  23. Since you'll be having it your lap and I'm not sure if you'll have it permanently wired to the console via ports 1 and 2, or how long the leads will be, was thinking if it had internal storage, you could store the leads that way when not in use.
  24. Years back I'd upgrade with super video for the XE or XL and keep the RF. I also wired in RCA's for outputs and have 3 video outputs. It allowed flexibility to have a combination of screen types. When I'd play two player games having a screen for each player really let you both sit square to the screen and the ability to focus on a single screen for each player was great.
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