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cleoo

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About cleoo

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  1. Prior to removing the mod, I tested the voltage leading to it on the board and it was putting out 4.94 volts (Same as at the Voltage Regulator, bottom pin). It seemed to be getting power. I'm going to try the mod on a woody 4 switcher and see if that one works. I read somewhere in this forum that Vader's have problems with video mods. I wasn't able to find what the reason was...yet. If the mod doesn't work in the regular way then I'll try that option.
  2. Goes to show how much I know. 🤦‍♂️ The last post (#7) was showing how the CAPACITOR was before I put in the Console 5 white capacitor.
  3. 1st picture: There’s an IC next to C245. C242 with the capacitor. I’m thinking I should put the diode back. I was getting distortion on the screen. Missing C201
  4. That's interesting because on my Revision 16 board, the C242 originally had a diode in that spot (I'm assuming like Blaine's since I didn't see that part.) So, would changing that diode to the .1uF capacitor affect anything? I changed it because of the Console5 listing. Looking at my board, the C201 is completely missing. It's supposed to be right next to L201. It's not marked and it's filled in with solder.
  5. Thanks for the suggestion. The capacitors weren't backwards though. Initially, I thought that because C214 had the positive on the bottom of the board. But since posting, I removed the composite mod and re-installed the RF box and connectors. And it was working, but staticky and distorting.
  6. I have a Revision 16 NTSC Vader that I wanted to recap and add the composite video mod. Prior to doing the recap and mod, the Vader had bright colors, but had interference and distortion on the display. The sound was fine. After I recapped it and did the composite video mod, I connected it to the composite jacks of video 1 and all I get is a blank screen and a small pop from the TV speaker when I turn on the switch. I bought this Ebay 2600/7800 Composite Video Mod. But I chose to do DIY version. I recapped it following this video guide: I had actually recapped all the components in the video before proceeding on with the composite video mod. -C241 .1uf -C243 2200uf -C214 4.7uf -C206 820pf -C207 820pf It was working but was still had some interference and distortion. So, I decided to install the composite video mod. Console5 listed C201 as a capacitor to replace for the 4 switch, but I could not find it anywhere on the schematic. I saw CR201. I saw C200 then looked around for C201, but only saw C202. So, I was unable to change C201. I additionally changed C242 with a .1uf like at C241. I also changed the power port. (CONSOLE 5) For 4 Switch All new 2200uF and 4.7uF electrolytic capacitors: C201, C214, C243 (4.7uF caps are radial-type) C206, C207: Two new 820pF MLCC capacitors to replace failure-prone styrene caps: Frequently the cause of audio loss (see product images for install photo) C241 and/or C242: Two replacement .1uF (or .22uF) "chicklet" capacitors. Some models have incorrect parts from the factory, or sometimes the original caps fail and cause "sparklies" in the video. These are the non-electrolytic cap(s) near the voltage regulator. The .1uF and .22uF are functionally identical for this purpose. Composite Video Mod: I removed the 3 legged transistor at Q202. I removed the RF and the 5 hard pins. I removed R209 I saw some video mod instructions that also removed C209, but they weren't Revision 16 boards, so I left this. Left side of the composite video board: I soldered the BLACK ground to RF Pin 1 I soldered the YELLOW VID-IN to RF Pin 4 I soldered the BLUE AUD-IN to the bottom leg of R206 I soldered the RED +5V to RF Pin 3 Right side of the composite video board: BLACK GND soldered across the RED, WHITE, YELLOW RCA jack ground points YELLOW VID-OUT soldered to YELLOW RCA jack pin BLUE AUD-OUT soldered to the RED and WHITE RCA jack pins Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll post the pics of the board soon.
  7. Nice video. It was timely as I followed it recently, but had some questions since there seems to be some discrepancies. I noticed you didn't replace C242. I replaced just C241 also and it worked fine, but Console 5 provides an additional .1uf for C242. Just wondering why it was left out. Also, Console 5 listed C201 as being replaced with a 4.7uf. I can't find it in the schematic nor on my board. I got this Revision 16 schematic from this page: Console 5 parts: For 4 Switch All new 2200uF and 4.7uF electrolytic capacitors: C201, C214, C243 (4.7uF caps are radial-type) C206, C207: Two new 820pF MLCC capacitors to replace failure-prone styrene caps: Frequently the cause of audio loss (see product images for install photo) C241 and/or C242: Two replacement .1uF (or .22uF) "chicklet" capacitors. Some models have incorrect parts from the factory, or sometimes the original caps fail and cause "sparklies" in the video. These are the non-electrolytic cap(s) near the voltage regulator. The .1uF and .22uF are functionally identical for this purpose.
  8. Oh. I thought yours was just a pixelated screen but was still playable. Mine was playing fine with the pixelated screen. Then what the experts here were saying was true then - suzy.
  9. I had a couple of Lynx IIs. One had a pixelated screen; the other did not. I swapped the good, non-pixelated one into the other and it worked fine. No suzy chip replaced. The only problem you may run into is that the screens have to be exactly the same - there are actually different revisions of the LCD screen.
  10. Just ordered two of these Osgeld PCBs ($7) for my favorite controllers. They work fantastic! Very little movement of the joystick in all eight directions, resulting in less stress on the plastic joystick joints. Super responsive during game play, especially Pac-Man 8k. I also ordered the 4 point replacement pcb domes to replace some of the non-functional joysticks. 10/pack ($2). They are a bit larger than the 3 point domes, with a point or two not making contact or barely making contact. The dome is a bit taller at the apex. So might be a tad slower response if you’re using it to replace the button dome. I kept a usable 3 point there. Inexpensive way to refurbish some joysticks. Console 5 has 4 leg domes for 44 or 59 cents each.
  11. Just got this Rafal on March 12th. I Paypaled him on March 2nd. Quick from Poland to California, considering what’s going on right now. Quality product! Thank you, Rafal!
  12. Thank you for the suggestion Stephen, I'll have to acquire some of these tools and see how it goes. Hopefully, the cost to fix my cartridge is cheaper than finding a used cartridge. Luckily, I don't have any other cartridges with this kind of corrosion.
  13. Thank you. I will try all the suggestions offered. I need to get a fiber pen too. I’ll report back...
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