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cleoo

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About cleoo

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  1. Here are three I have. No expansion port Expansion port. No connector. Expansion port with connector.
  2. Here are two more I acquired: Sept/Oct 1982 December 1981
  3. I’d imagine the joystick came from the Newport Controls Prostick II like this one:
  4. I installed the Meanwell RD-50A Power Supply on my 520STFM. Similar to how Jan Beta did in his YouTube video Atari 1040STF Restoration Part 1 I did, however, installed it with the cage still intact and turned a different way while still fitting under the housing.
  5. Unfortunately, I ended up breaking the reset switch. I tried to superglue the pieces but it ended up breaking when I pressed it. Which left the pins shorted and it booted into a white screen without reaching the desktop. Too bad I don’t have a 3D printer to make a replacement.
  6. Did you fix the white screen problem? When I was troubleshooting my 520STFM, I ended up breaking the reset switch accidentally. Prior to that, I had gotten it working. It booted into the GEM desktop. Then I snapped the reset button and when I reinstalled it, the pins might have have remained stuck on reset so when I did boot it. I got the white screen and no green desktop. I desoldered the reset switch and left it vacant and now it boots onto the desktop. That was my problem, may not be yours though.
  7. That was a good suggestion about the fault with the keyboard. Sure enough there were breaks in the solder. I applied new solder and checked continuity. OMG. There were 30 little screws to remove. What a pain.
  8. I’ll try that. I noticed when I shut it off and turn it back on, the mouse button became active again.
  9. Duh, I actually waited longer before giving up. I need a manual. Left mouse button still is non-responsive at times. Wonder what is causing the issue...
  10. Thanks Robson for the suggestions. I replaced the main capacitor with a 2200uF and did change the C41 capacitor with a 100uF at the suggestion of Luke at Console5. But then I started to get distorted screens and got this 20 bomb screen once it settled down. I replaced the main cap back to a NEW 470uF cap I had for the Lynx and removed the C41 cap back to the original one. The screen was again distorted. Then I started to seat the large chips to see if they made a difference and I noticed the bottom chip (blitter?) was changing the screen display when I applied pressure at certain points. But then it finally cleared up and showed these screens. I reinstalled the 2200uF cap and also removed and reseated those two chips and now it boots onto the GEM desktop! So, the only issue I have is obviously the floppy drive needs to be fixed. It beeps and spins but nothing shows up on the desktop. I had to unplug it so it could get onto the GEM desktop. Each of the keys makes and audible sound on each press that I can hear through the monitor. The other issue I’ve experienced is the left mouse click doesn’t always work. I can now look into other options and getting it to work fully. Thank you.
  11. Robson, how would I even disable the top row of “new” ram? I don’t have a schematic to figure that out right now.
  12. Thank you. It had powered up to the green desktop after making most of the recap but something caused it to go back to the black screen. I’ll try those suggestions of yours as well. I’m nominally proficient at soldering so I was having difficulty removing the rock hard solder, even after applying fresh solder to the small vias. I soldered the large cap this way. The C124 cap looks jerry-rigged in the picture Console5 Luke sent. Can someone take a picture of their unmodified C124 cap for proper placement? It looks like the negative of the axial cap is on the small via near the and the positive is connected near the C124 via. Is that the positive?
  13. Thank you both for the suggestions. I will give those a try. I was emailing Luke at Console5 and he believes this board was one of the early Rev D boards in the transition from Rev C because of the 470uF cap. He sent me a pic of how that 2200uF was installed.
  14. So I turned it without putting the remaining two capacitors and got to this... Then when I went to attach the mouse. It went back to the black screen with white border.
  15. I acquired this 520STFM a while back and started getting parts to get it to work since it would just show a black screen with white border. The PO said he upgraded the board to 1 MB as you can see the row above the original ram has been populated. So, I thought it was the PSU since it was old and those were problematic. I followed Jan Beta’s video and installed a Meanwell RD60 PSU. When I booted it, the only change I noticed and it was very brief, it was a very distorted white and green display-glimpse of a desktop? Anyway, i quickly flicked it on and off and it went back to the black screen, white border. So, I went ahead and started to replace the caps. Console5s caps were a little different than what was on the board On my board C35 is occupied with a radial capacitor 470 uF 16v. Console5 supplied an axial capacitor 2200 uF 16v. Is that still acceptable? Not sure if it will even fit. I also can’t find C124 on the board to put this 100uF 16v axial capacitor. Highest one on the PCB is C119. If you can direct me to it because I can’t find it. Also, looking through this board I see these resistors. Doesn’t look right. These look burnt and there’s a clear coating over part of the board. Any ideas with what’s going on with these mods? Thank you.
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