axh174

I managed to dig up the AR Doom mod files Karl was talking about. There's the main level *.wad file and the sound effects *.wad file. They can be found here: Level: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/31359678/arcity/arcity.wad Sound: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/31359678/arcity/ars.wad To load them in a Doom, type "doom -file DirOfWads\arcity.wad DirOfWads\ars.wad" where DirOfWads is whatever path\directory you store the files in. Once in the game, skip to Episode 1, Mission 5 (type "IDCLEV15") and take a look around. Bear in mind that while the City in its entirety is present, it exists in mostly a beta state. Certain one-way passages couldn't be implemented the way they were in the original AR and limitations in the number of sectors a level can have forced joining certain doors together. Either way, it's fun to roam around and lots of fun to play through Doom with the sound file =)

I loved playing Star Raiders on the 800XL; it's still one of my favorite games. Back in the day, I was pretty competent in it. I've tried playing the 2600 version on multiple occasions, and I cannot for the life of me get anywhere with it. No matter how much I try to juke and dodge, I end up getting blown out of the sky. I chalked it up to being an inferior port of the original computer version. But now seeing everyone's responses here, I'm beginning to wonder otherwise. Did I just miss something with the 2600 version? I have the complete game (box, manual, keypad, etc), so am I missing some secret to the game play? Maybe I'm trying to apply computer version tactics when I should not?

I'd recommend Warlords as the came can go quick and it also has some hectic speed to it when 4 players are fighting for supremacy. If you want to show off something flashy, I'd say either Solaris or Pitfall II. Pitfall II might be something more relatable since it is of the familiar side-scrolling platformer genre and has a continous soundtrack.

Since you're talking about replacing the 72 pin connector, I'm assuming you have a front-loader model. I'd recommend placing the 72 pin connector since it's rather straight-forward and replacement connectors aren't the expensive. Check out ebay (search for "NES 72 pin connector")for replacements made with a range of qualities. If you can find a gold-plated connector, that would probably work best. Prices range from $5-$15. Now, if you do have a front loader, your absolute best bet to getting rid of blinking console issues is to take your pin connector and, using a tiny jewelers flathead screwdriver, gently bend the top and bottom prongs closer to the center slot. The upshot of this is you get great, consistent results. The downside is the cartridge becomes difficult to insert and remove and you run the risk of wearing cartridge contacts down with time. Hope that helps.

I'd bulldoze in the morning, I'd bulldoze in the evening......... I'd bulldoze at supper time.... *Achievement Unlocked: "The Few, The Proud." Fullfill your duty to AA by posting in the 'Atari's Landfill Adventure' thread.*

I know I already expressed interest in a copy, but that was before the new manual and box was unveiled. Put me down for a complete set. =)

When I last used Handy, it was on my Windows XP computer and its performance was well more than adequate. I noticed some games had slight scratchy sounds while other did not. If there's significant performance issues on Win7-64bit, I'm inclined to say it simply wasn't optimized for it. My biggest frustration with Handy was it did not have the ability implemented to link with other Handy users to play cooperatively (I love the Lynx version of Xenophone and would love the ability to link with others to play cooperatively, if even over a LAN). Does anyone know if this has been implemented yet?

Bought an unassembled BAtari video mod kit from LittleJoe's ebay store and had a blast assembling it an installing it. Picture looks great through both the Svideo and the Composite on my analog TV, still have to check it out on my LCD HD. I'm having some issues adjusting the brightness and the contrast, though. For example, I was playing Cosmic Ark and the background was far too bright (gray space field instead of black). I Turned the brightness pot all the way up and noticed the entire field "dropped a shade" to much darker overall colors when I hit the pot's limit. Dialing back the pot slightly gave me a black star field while the Ark and Beasties planetscape were rich colors. Looked absolutely amazing! However, if I turned the console off and back on the colors are far to bright again and washed out even though I hadn't touched the pot. Adjusting it can get the rich colors again, but they always end up washed out when I turn the console off and back on. Any idea what could be causing this? bad pot?

Is there a particular brand/type you recommend? I just got some paddles that could use it.

Has anyone thought about printing new shells out using a 3D printer? I hear the quality of the newer 3D printers is quite good. Given the simple shape of the cartridge,little sanding may be needed after printing. Just a thought.

Interesting note there on pin 6. In the schematics for the 4-switch located in the archives, Pin 6 on the TIA is omitted. I've got a Rev 14, 4-switch and it has Pin 6 tied to Pin 9 via an 820 Ohm resister, which is more like the 6-switch schematic. Dunno if it was purposefully omitted or just missed? Either way, I'm curious as to why the pins need to be lifted / traces need to be cut. I would assume it is due to (potential) interference from the rest of the circuit, but not sure. Looking to satisfy my curiosity. Anyone have any insight?

I have a question regarding the installation of the BAtari mod. What is the significance of lifting pins 6, 9, 12, and 13? (I believe these correspond to the Blanking signal, Chroma out, and Audio R/L out) What happens if you don't lift the pins, but still solder to these points? Is it an interefernce issue? A concern over voltage division in the resistor network? If so, why are these pins lifted, but the Luminance pins are not? Thanks.

Hmmm, if the A button is functioning as the Start/Pause button then there's the possibility that whatever it damaged is related to the IC on the controller's main board. If your Start/Pause button is still doing its job then it could just be that the rubber pads under the buttons are destroyed, but those can be found in replacement kits. If you've never taken apart a nintendo controller before, what you'll find inside is a series of plastic buttons (the D-pad, A, B, Start and Select, obviously) and laying on top of these buttons are sections of rubber membranes (one for the D-pad, one for the A+B and one for the Start+Select) Each rubber membrane has a dome-like shape, kind of like a half bubble, which allows it to spring back into position after being depressed by the button. On the bottom of the dome is a little metal contact. When you press a button, the dome is depressed, the metal contact connects with the circuit board and completes a connection. It's a pretty simple setup. The NES Max is no different, it just has a couple extra membrane to accomodate the turbo buttons. (Pretty sure the circle button is not really a button, it just resides inside the black ring, which looks like a regular D-pad from the bottom side) Sometimes, the rubber membranes can tear and rip with use and then they no longer function correctly. These membranes can usually be bought as part of a refurbishment kit that you can find online, either on ebay or elsewhere. If the rubber membranes are intact, it could be that the metal contacts are just dirty, both on the dome undersides and on the circuit board. The circuit board contacts should be shiny, while the metal contacts on the dome undersides should be grayish-black. I've had success using an eraser to remove crud build-up. Another option that I've had success with in repairing NES Advantages is to cut a tiny circular piece of tin-foil no larger than the metal contact on the underside of the dome. Super-glue the tin foil to the metal contact and it should restore functionality (provided the membrane is intact). In any event, go ahead and take apart one of the new-used NES Max's you got. It should be painfully obvious is something is broken (so you shouldn't have to open up your working one). While in there, make sure to check the controller cord connections to the circuit board; sometimes those can break. If you have a multi-meter, use it to check for continuity between each pin on the controller jack and the circuit board. (it could be you're dealing with a bad cord!)

Littlejoe, that's great news! Are those boards using the FMS6400/FMS6406 or the ML6428? What do you figure is the ETA on complete kits?

Just wondering what the latest word is on this mod. Did the ML6428 end up looking just as good on the printed board as it did on the bread board?