dankcomputing

I wish I still had the PCB that went in my SH205, because I would have sent it to you to make a SCSI substitute with. Will be building this though. You are providing a fantastic service to the community!

The ACSI-SASI (yes, SASI) bridge that shipped in the SH204 will only work with the oldest of SCSI drives - nothing bigger than 80 megs in theory and nothing bigger than 40MB in practice. I've only gotten the tall-mech Quantum ProDrives to work and 10 years later they're starting to all die off because a piece of rubber inside the drive is melting into crude oil. I never even tried the MFM drive on the MFM-SASI bridge that comes inside, just chucked all of it immediately. I don't F- with MFM. If you have to though, I hear this may work. Assembled, it's probably going to be more than a SatanDisk, but it's the only solution I know of with the potential to recover data from the MFM drive. It may also be possible to configure a ZuluSCSI to work, but at that point you're also hurtling towards a SatanDisk budgetwise. The SH204 is roomy enough inside to accommodate a different, better ACSI-SCSI bridge - thanks to t0ri it's possible to reproduce a number of them, only issue is finding the components and building them.

this forum badly needs a bot that appropriately colors every occurrence of the word "gold".

It's close, but the result there isn't going to look too much like a retail box. And honestly, the boxes should have been plastic clamshells from the beginning, as they should have been for all consoles. IDK the Genesis, Master System, J-PCs, Neo-Geo etc. have spoiled me.

This isn't happening is it

Intellivision 1 membranes appear to be out of stock everywhere now. (and II membranes were never produced)

How come these don't exist? UGCs won't hold the overlays, but there's gotta be something out there that fits and could look good. I found a place that will sell you repro cardboard boxes, but they only deal in the UK box variants.

The 3DO shares CD mechs and lasers with early (we're talking 2-4X) CD-ROM drives, mostly of the SCSI or MKE persuasion. They'll be Panasonic/Matsushita manufactured, or rebranded for OEM use (most of the SCSI ones will be branded as AppleCD 300i). Swapping is an option, but as mentioned earlier in this thread, even when these drives are working perfectly you'll need to be burning Taiyo Yudens on the oldest CD burner you can find at the slowest speed it will allow. The MKE drives are sought after by 3DO Baster owners so that pretty much leaves the SCSI ones. If you find one in a Mac you need to stay intact you can just swap a newer one with a compatible faceplate (AppleCD 600i) or move the faceplate over since it's obviously not going to be of use in the 3DO.

Could you use a YMZ284 instead of a full AY-8910? That would really save on space provided there's a supply available.

By the way, it is possible to get injection-molded reproduction NES, Gameboy and even Game Gear buttons and d-pad pieces of any imaginable color from Handheld Legend. If you can get them to work in your controller that'd be fewer pieces that need to be printed.

I don't think anyone's come up with a label for Kevtris (the game, not the person) yet. There's no cover either!

It has to do all these and fit into the controller wells to be perfect.

What sucks is that there's no formal name or manufacturer for these plugs that I know of, even though they were used on other equipment besides the 7800. Would help a lot in tracking replacements down. I do know there's a version of it floating around with either an indent or no tab at the top, so that's something to watch out for.

I know but they went to all the trouble of making GIFs of the glitches and nobody responded. Gotta reward that level of effort on principle.

Bryan (or someone else) alluded to using 2 UAC boards to get stereo but nobody's done a diagram for it. I agree it's much easier to get audio out of the 2600 and 5200 with simple resistors and capacitors, and it can be done quite none-destructively too, but like the 400 the 7800 is a special case. It looks like it might be possible to do what's been done on the 2600 (isolate both TIA pins except for those "pull-up" resistors, add DC-blocking capacitors, run 1K resistors from both stereo halves to create a mono output for the mono pin on the video out connector and the RF modulator) but I'm not sure what to do with the cart sound input. I could run it to the stereo pins through a pair of 1K resistors again but I'm not sure if that's going to work or work well. Seems like most other consoles use op-amps to mix multiple audio sources internally. I guess I could try it out and see what happens. I know that not all 2600 games were meant to have the two channels on different speakers, but the mod I typically do leaves the two channels mixed a little bit - they're not completely left and right but it's still noticeable.