Tengugurl

Figured it out. Got a straight through pass through scart cable (Aka no caps or resistors in line) and now it works solder points for ntsc sms =resistors per my pics and csync is on the chip towards the controller ports *see pics aka those pics are accurate. stating this as ntsc sms 2 rgb bypass pics and or instructions are hard to find

Mhm! Probably should make a check list when I test things out haha #1 on the list, check the psu. #2 is it OEM?

Good thinking @-^CrossBow^- i am using the same din connector from a Sega genesis 2 that I bought from Console5 repairs. I am using a csync cable with 75ohm on RGB. I am pulling csync straight from the chip, not composite, didn’t put composite out on the din out, wonder if that would help? just looked at other people doing this mod and they don’t add composite, just csync. i am half debating getting a frank strasser rgb pcb as I have seen 1 documented how to on that pcb and it worked. bah, so close but no dice… one of the fun ups and downs of modding stuff

More pics zoomed out

Hello! i am trying to RGB bypass mod my North American SMS to no avail… Tl;DR no documentation online on how to use a Voultar rgb pcb on an American SMS. Lots of documentation on PAL pcbs. 1) sourced RGB FROM R51, R55, and R53 respectively. Seen it pulled from the chip and also these spots 2) sourced Csync from 315-5246 chip as I have seen it pulled here before 3) sourced 5v+ and GND from the 7805 voltage regulator 4) sourced audio from previous User RF spot (seen it pulled from here before) 5) grounded my mini Din connector to the GND on the pcb for good measure (also pulled GND from previous RF port) 6) using a retro access Scart cable 7) drew out the mapping from the mini din female port to the legs I would solder to interface with it 8. Plugged it in and nada… nill…. Nothing got noise that’s not the game just sounds like audio noise from the power line 9) attempted to map/verify the scart cables pinout to the din (I.e does red 15 on scart equal red via the din) and I am noticing something strange…. The retro access cable is not mapping to the din. example: genesis 2 pinout says red goes to pin 9 but, when I go to pin 15 on the scart end, it doesn’t go to any of the pins on the din end of the scart? so confused. 10) mapped out the din female and legs *see attached and it should work but it doesn’t? any help or guidance would be amazing! Hope my list helps provide background on what I have done and tried its like the din and sms is right but the Scart cable is not. I can’t even get a multimeter to find the R,G,B and Csync on the scart cable. It works fine on genesis consoles? So I am even more confused

Figured it out I was using aftermarket power supplies on both the console and 32x. got the original psus and it’s working flawlessly now

hi all! tl;dr recapped a broken 32x, got audio working but no video. Frustrating 1) replaced the ribbon cables 2) cleaned the pcb 3) recapped it 4) reflowed the solder joints on the av, in, out, and psu ports 5) got it to recognize in av mode and rgb mode (Aka different cables) 6) brand new av cable extension from genesis to 32x (does not have the extra pin so got that covered) 7) pushed on the video chip, no distortion or changes in the video quality cleaned pcb traces on cartridge port both genesis and 32x 9) gets power from stock psu that works fine in a genesis 2 multimeter reads normal problem: video barely comes in, only faintly shows for Sega genesis games, 32x games don’t make sound or fuzzy video any suggestions? I did have it show a crystal clear image once but on reboot it stopped showing video again, fml.. ps the slight differences in colors is the picture haha right? Not much to see

I took mine apart and got some part numbers: MRD310 K9428 Also took pics. Going to see if I can find something comparable on Digikey or something. PS looks like someone else tried this with no success: https://forums.nesdev.org/viewtopic.php?t=19845&p=248157 https://www.weisd.com/products/869575-mrd310-nte-equivalent-nte3032-phototransistor-dete --> out of stock too bahh! I may be better off just turning this thing into a lamp or something

Hi all! I too just bought one of these and it was sold as “working” but, the x/y coordinates on it don’t work. Trigger works so maybe that’s all the tested. Can’t return it unfortunately. anyone have a part number for the phototransistor? I am going to see if replacing that helps. also check for frayed cables, connectivity and possible shorts. sucks. Guess these things are great when they work but when they don’t they become expensive orange plastic dust collectors

Hi all! I wanted to share a fun project I have been working on. TL;DR: Pinout mapping to use DB9 extension cables from an Intellivision 1, 2, 3... heck even the Sears tele-games arcade (Works checked lol) that allow you to use both an original (AKA I call them classic Controllers) and Flashback controllers (AKA the AtGames more modern controllers) I hope it's cool with people if I share this (Just sharing the knowledge I have acquired with patience, a lot of testing and my basic soldering skills). I just got into Intellivision recently and was so surprised that the consoles I was finding/ bought locally were missing controllers. I then stumbled across a page where you can use a more modern controller (Flashback) via a special adapter and was impressed with this solution. They old controllers on ebay I bought were tough to press in, missing things and generally didn't age well. (Though I still want to use them) 1) How this works for Flashback Controllers: a. For INTV I, you must make an Intellivision Flashback adapter for INTVI with a dupont connector and port end of a DB9 extension cable i. See pics in the screen shot, this shows the cables I use/ dupont connector I use ii. I purchase mine from Aliexpress iii. The default controller that works in this setup is a flashback controller (AKA the more modern one that probably will work a lot better than the OEM Classic Controller) b. For all INTV consoles that have a DB9 port, just make an INTV II flashback adapter i. See pics in the screen shot, this shows the cables I use/ pinout you need to change your cable to so it will work in your DB9 port style console (INTV II, Sears tele-games etc...) ii. The default controller that works in this setup is a flashback controller (AKA the more modern one that probably will work a lot better than the OEM Classic Controller) 2) How this works for Classic Controllers: a. INTV I: If you have a Flashback Controller extension coming out of the console, plug in the classic controller adapter into the flashback controller adapter using a http://www.2600-daptor.com/ 2600 daptor INTV I adapter i. This changes the wiring from INTV Flashback to Classic Pinouts ii. Follow the screen shot for Classic Controllers INTV I (PS INTV I and INTV II have similar pin mappings) b. INTV II: If you have a Flashback Controller extension coming out of the console, plug in the classic controller adapter into the flashback controller adapter using a http://www.2600-daptor.com/ 2600 daptor INTV I adapter (Or use the OEM INTV II controller lol but you want to use a better one, am I right?) i. This changes the wiring from INTV Flashback to Classic Pinouts ii. Follow the screen shot for Classic Controllers INTV I (PS INTV I and INTV II have similar pin mappings)

#**** Definitive Guide/ pinout below******#

Yay! Easy to make. All the best everyone! ❤️

For those that were interested

Wow! That’s a cool idea @0078265317 gives you lots of options