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I recently lucked into a set of disks of IUG compilations 1-8. They're uploaded to my GitHub: TI-IUG Disks 1-8

https://github.com/markaudacity/diskimages/tree/1d19c7d65f45b95fc692232367e9704e1e479fd0/TI99/IUG

This has been super helpful y'all. I just stumbled onto a set of IUG compilation disks (1-8D) that I'm digitizing, and TI99 Dir was exactly waht I needed to make sure I was getting good reads. I'll be sharing the archive on Github once it's all imaged and exported.

I just bought a bundle of disks that includes IUG compilations 1-8 that I'm currently imaging. LMK if you're interested in the images/extracted files.

Why are none of the non-prototype Activision ROM images available? Also, would it be feasible to make one big zip file available with all the ROM images hosted on AtariAge for people that want to load up a CuttleCart or have all the games for an emulator? It's aggrvating to have to scroll through all the pages of games clicking each link.

The best option of course is to get selfboot disk images of the games and burn those. ^_^

I think we can safely guess which one of those is the case. ^_^ The Jag wasn't that good, guys. Yes, it had potential, and yes, it wasn't used, but the bitwidth of the ALU and system registers cannot make the games (and thus the system) not suck. With the exception of Tempest 2k.

Actually, the 360 is 64-bit, it uses Power970s (AKA G5s) which are 64-bit native processors.

My DC just lives on the floor and it isn't yellowy either.

DS. I will say no more.

Are we all on the same page about what "bits" means for a system, as in, the width of a processor word? *is not insulting anyone, just making sure*

Tried superglue? Ugly as in yellow-SNES ugly? Does your Dreamcast ever have sunlight shining on it, cos the cause of that yellowing is usually either smoke or UV radiation from the sun. Yeah, Sega used a resistor as a fuse on the controller board to keep a short from blowing up the whole console, but it kinda backfired. You can replace it with a same-value higher wattage resistor and it should fix the problem (resistors are ubercheap).

At the rate the clock uses the battery, a pair of AA alkalines would probably last you five years.

To answer most of the questions asked: GD-ROM does in fact read from rim to hub, with the exception of the innermost sector which contains CDDA audio and optionally PC-accessible bonus content. It also spins the disc at half the speed of a regular CD-ROM drive but reads at the same rate. That's how they cram 1.2GB of data onto what should be a 640-800MB disk. The reason Dreamcasts are prone to not reading discs is because the denser data makes scratches much more serious. A scratch that would not cause a skip in a CD-ROM or audio CD can obliterate quite a bit of data on a GD-ROM. The drive in a Dreamcast can read CD-ROM-formatted games because of a hook left in the BIOS to allow booting CD-ROM media to lessen the costs of prototyping games (blank GD-ROMs were only produced by Sega and were accordingly expensive). Pirates later discovered that hook and exploited it to allow copying of games. The glitches or total lack of in-game audio, video, textures, or levels are likely due to bitty scratches on the discs; there's no way the drive could fail only at certain points on the discs. The drives that won't read anything are probably just the percentage of "well, it didn't really pass QC but I guess we'll let it slide" units that make it out the door of any electronics manufacturer. Sega probably let a few more Dreamcasts like that out the door than they should have because they were desperate to save their business. Hope all that was helpful! ^_^

Emphasis on the "if you can find it" bit.