Larry
-
Posts
5,492 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Events
Store
Posts posted by Larry
-
-
Update -- still no joy...
I've replaced the holder and battery and cleaned the contacts. SDX recognizes the R-Time 8, but the time and date keep changing. It is mostly a case of increasing the time by several minutes each time I issue the TIME command, even if only a few seconds have elapsed. I've reset the time and re-booted probably 20 or more times, but the R-Time 8 keeps giving flaky results.
I can invoke TD ON to set the display line and watch the time change -- increases about 1 minute for each 5 seconds, but not consistently.
My Sunmark RTIME cart keeps perfect time.
Any thoughts? BTW, what is YC1 and the little silver "tube" (Y1) adjacent to it? (see the link from spookt in his post above).
Thanks,
Larry
-
???
I've been using MyDos for at about 25 years -- back to 3.07, and I've had virtually no problems except with (I think) 4.2. Puff killed a lot of the bugs with the release of 4.50. Dunno about these 4.5X versions. I have basically stayed with 4.50. Never have seen the "ramdisk bug" that has been discussed. Perhaps I just haven't stressed it in just the right way, but 4.50 sure seems darned stable in my use.
What kind of instability and bugs are you referring to?
-Larry
Hello Andreas, guys
Well,this MyDOS 4.55 has been beta since many years now - so I doubt there will ever be a new or final version of it...
I've had a look at MyDOS 4.55 beta 4 already. (But that's all, have to get my 8 bit system back up)
... and even if, why not name the new or final version 4.56 or simply 4.6 then ?!?Because we'ld be at MyDOS 75.67 by the time it reaches "fully stable and 99% bug free" stage.
greetings
Mathy
-
How do I setup a RAM Disk in Mydos to emulate a disk drive that can do SD,ED and DD formats? I have 256k to play with. In Super Dos I can emulate a disk drive with ease but Super Dos isn't compatible with the SIO2PC
Yes Super Dos has spoiled me 
I just wish it had Hard Drive Support.Interesting... I didn't know that SuperDos was incompatible with SIO2PC. I can successfully boot SuperDos 5.0 from APE, but SD refuses to recognize any APE drive other than D1:. It would be interesting to know why it fails with other than D1: . Off the top of my head, I would suspect that APE responds too quickly, but that wouldn't explain why it recognizes D1: (?) But since SD doesn't support hard drives, that limits its usefulness for many users these days.
Anyway, to your original question. If you want a MyDos ramdisk to *exactly* represent a 90K or 180K drive, then you would need the CSS Ultra Speed Plus OS. They may still have them for sale. I used that OS in a 320K XE for years. But I don't know about it supporting the 1200XL or XEGS. From memory: the default ramdisk for USP+ is D4: as a 720 sector SD disk, but it can be changed to D9: (or other) and/or changed to DD provided you have the ram to support it. It is a proprietary OS module and must be installed with several solder points. Not terribly difficult to install, but not "plug and play" either.
Here's the link, if you find the USP+ of interest:
-Larry
-
Thanks!
I think I have found a usable, inexpensive holder at
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/eeedesigner__W0QQ_armrsZ1QQ_fsubZ445633014
I ordered the "slim" 2025/2032 mount @ 2pcs/$1 + $4.50 shipping. I think the R-Time8 originally came with a 2430 battery, so I'll lose about 50 mah (~20%) in battery capacity. I suspect that's not a big deal -- we'll see.
-Larry
-
Digi-Key (and, probably others) has a number of coin cells with pins attached. (P195-ND, for example) Just choose one that can be adapted to the R-Time8. Soldering to the case is a very bad idea... use a cell that has some kind of pins from the factory.
Bob
One last question about this (I hope)...
I've been doing some research and I find that most of the coin cell holders are listed as "through the hole, horizontal mount". No problem with the "through the hole" (20 mm for the R-Time 8 ) but I would interpret the "horizontal mount" to mean that the plastic holder mounts horizontally (lays flat) on the board surface. Some "vertical mount" have pins at one side so that it appears to "stand up" vertically from the board. Also makes sense to me. But some of the "vertical mount" holders look to lay flat. (?) For instance compare these two holders:
(versus)
Alas, most sites do not have nice pics showing both sides of the holder, which would be very helpful in nailing this down. Is my interpretation of "vertical" and "horizontal" correct? I'd really like the holder + cell versus cell with welded leads.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Larry
-
Hi Steve-
Can the suite/programmer be used to more easily make a user update of the 32?-in-1 OS modules so long as one has an 8Mb cart to swap the OS module flash chip?
-Larry
-
also id like to state is there any way tofindout if my 65xe has a130xe board without tearing itapart *by serial number orapp..the65xe runsgreat..likenew..but the130xe.. no good. andi need the 130xe for the synth im writing..and the freddie chip.
A couple of alternatives:
The easiest and "Best" fix is to buy a new 130XE motherboard from Best Electronics. IF your keyboard and power supply are good, and you are happy with the cosmetics of your case and keyboard, then you can have a solid computer for fairly low cost. Brad was selling these for $70 + regular USPS shipping. I've bought several of these 130XE and 800XL boards ($40) and mine are pristine. Another choice is to contact MEtalGuy66 here at AA and see if he is willing to repair yours. From my experience, he is excellent at A8 repairs.
-Larry
-
I've done the same. I replaced the battery (which had the tags attached at the factory as pointed out above) with a new coin cell and low profile holder. I posted a pic in This thread.
It's a pretty easy fix but you might want to check the data sheet for the battery holder and get the lowest one you can find.
Thanks for the info/tips. I'll check into the coin cell holder, and I can visualize from your pic how the original battery must have been attached. Radio Shack no longer carries the holders, so I'll have to do mail order. I do have a working RTime cart from Sunmark. Mark used a replaceable battery holder, so all I had to do was get a new CR2025 (slightly smaller than the CR2430 in the RTime-8. Of course, it's not gray nor pass through, so I can't stack my carts 3-high...
-Larry
-
I decided to attempt to rejuvenate my R-Time 8 cart, and it definitely needs a new coin-type 3V battery. The +/- leads are currently soldered to the two sides of the battery, and that's my first question. I didn't think that soldering directly to a battery was a good idea? I suspect that several folks out there have successfully replaced these batteries. Any tips? Incidently, my RT8 does not have the IC numbers ground off. I was told some years ago that some had been "erased" to help prevent attempted cloning. Thanks.
-Larry
-
Well,
there was one entry for the hardware contest (hardware under development) and another one that is still in a kind of "wait state". The first entry is a new (flash) cart. design that can hold more than 100 cart images. I do not know what the second entry is about - but I do know why it is on a wait state...
It is because the second entry is coming from the leader of the hardware ressort itself (Bernd Herale / BigBen) and its not clear, if the leader of the hardware ressort can take part at the hardware contest (for: he isn`t the judge, the Abbuc members and their votes are; against: conflict of interest, i.e. the leader of the hardware/software ressort should not take part in the hardware / software contest). We discussed this problem at the Abbuc forum, but have not come to a decision yet, so in the end I guess it is Wolfgang Burger himself who has to decide if its ok for him to take part or if its not ok...
But the rules of the hardware contest say there must be a minimum of two entries, otherwise the hardware contest will not be held. So if BigBen can take part we have a hw contest, if he cannot take part we don`t have a hw contest this year...
greetings, Andreas Koch.
Thanks, Andreas.
Looks like "lean times" in the hardware category this year.
-Larry
-
The first contribution to software contest arrived yesterday. It's a game called Electric Miner + Leveleditor.
Any hardware entries? If I read it correctly, the contest "closed" 31 Aug, so presumably the entries have been received.
Anything "fast" entered this year?
-Larry
-
Thanks to all for the suggestions about DIS6502. I've downloaded V2.2 and started going through the ml file to list the text strings. That is handy! I do wish that the window size was scalable -- the text is pretty small for older eyes. However by changing the screen display, it helps quite a bit. This definitely is a big improvement over the Atari disassemblers I've used previously.
-Larry
-
I'm attempting to disassemble a ml utility, and as usual a major stumbling block is separating out all the text messages and data from code sections. All I have ever used are regular native 6502 disassemblers. Are there any disassemblers (or techniques) that can make finding the actual code as opposed to data/text any easier? Or is it still basically "brute force?"
-Larry
-
Just a guess, (and hard to imagine) but looks like the ferric chloride residue from the pcb manufacturing process?
Also, from looking at the pic of your pcb, it appears that your SIO connectors are not reinforced with rivets or screws. These are the black I/O connectors at the back of the drive. Good idea to get some very small machine screws/nuts (preferably stainless steel) and lock down those SIO connectors. The holes look to be already drilled, and the pcb holes should line up with holes on the SIO connector "ears" (flanges). Just make sure you don't encroach on any pcb lines and/or short anything.
-Larry
I have no idea about the goop. I think it is actaully a water stain; maybe condensation from years of storage in a moist area? Perhaps some isoprohpyl((sp)? would be good to clean it off?
I think that might be a good idea. Otherwise it will just attract more dirt and whatnot.
-
I have my MIO (original ICD model) now with the Warerat's term power mod in it, and just as both Ken and he said, having the termination makes a significant improvement in the R/W speeds. Looks to be close to 50% faster than without termination.
SpartaDos X 4.22
(256 Bytes/Sec. no term power)
Write 10147
Read 14074
Ave. 12111
(256 Bytes/Sec. with term power)
Write 15161
Read 21938
Ave. 18549
MyDos 4.50
(256 Bytes/Sec. no term power)
Write 9648
Read 12387
Ave. 11018
(256 Bytes/Sec. with term power)
Write 14074
Read 17530
Ave. 15802
Comparing to Warerat's numbers on the last page of the "New MIO Production Run" these numbers are just slightly slower than his -- certainly looks to be within the realm of system-to-system variation.
I have other drives that need to be retested, but certainly this mod made a big difference. And BTW, both term LED's are lighted on the Sun enclosure with the mod. But no sign yet of reflux...
-Larry
-
Pics are always interesting...
But aren't XF551's supposed to *need* the low-power Mitsumi (or similar) mech's? Or is that a "suburban legend?" They seem to run hot even with the stock 5-1/4" drives? Modded to 3-1/2" should be easier on the power supply, especially with the newer mechs.
BTW, back in the mid-80's, I got several hundred Sony SS/DD disks, and they were and are fantastic. They were ultra-reliable as 720K, and even when "punched" and used as 1.44's until the price came down. I got rid of all my ST stuff a few years ago, but kept the Sony disks!
-Larry
(snip...)
I can snap some pics of the innards if anyone is interested.
-
Not the same cart. The references are for the Video61 cart. The auction was for the Atarimax flash cart. The V61 cart was of the type that you "boot and pull" the cart. I believe the flash cart turns itself off (or offers the option). I'm pretty sure that the flash cart is exactly the same as any 1 Mb Atarimax flash cart. I have both and pretty much use neither (since booting from a hard drive is almost as fast). Certainly the flash cart offers flexibility since it can "morph" into many other carts.
-Larry
[quote name=Sub(Function(
)' date='Sun Aug 23, 2009 4:34 AM' timestamp='1251016483' post='1822153]Don't know if you have seen the two articles on "The Cleveland Free-net"
and
Product summary by Michael Current
It is interesting that there is no mention of this version of MyDOS in section 7.5 of the "Atari 8-Bit Computers: Frequently Asked Questions". Guess it is not so frequently asked
-
I have mounted the ST118273LC in a SUN HD enclosure of the same type as Warerat used.
Out of curiosity, are the two green Auto Term LEDs lit on the back on the enclosure?
No, but since I don't have the term mod in this MIO and the drive can't furnish term power, I didn't expect it to. When I used tested the ST31055N, I used a straight 50-pin cable to the MIO, so they were not lighted then, either. When I try the MIO with term power, presumably the LED's will both illuminate. Do these results agree with what you would expect?
Thanks,
Larry
-
aehm... turbo basic xl compiler is the best...
I agree.
If you can get away with pure integer logic, ABC is also an option. It was used for a lot of commercial games, most notably Microprose.
So long,
Thomas
ABC was always my favorite. Like bf2k+, I mostly did utilities, and typically I needed a large buffer. That is ABC's forte, since it generally produces the smallest code + runtime. Quite a few programs are smaller compiled (with runtime) than the original Basic program. But size isn't much of an issue with games, I suspect.
-Larry
-
It's simple.. You have a termination issue.. Therefore, one or more lines is "floating" and does not alwayse produce the correct "state" from one device to the other.. Any time you are talking about data transfer, certainly longer cables introduce more opportunity for inductive noise, additional capacitance on the circuit, etc.. This does not change the fact that if the bus was 100% terminated correctly, you could use a cable of any length (within SCSI specs) and have far fewer bus errors and thus much higher transfer rates. This is all assuming that the drive you are using does not have compatability issues with the MIo in geenral.. If BF2k+ is getting similar throughput to Warerat's, and you are using the same exact model drive, then I suspect that not to be the case..
I'll tell you what we could do.. I havent shipped your MIO back to you yet.. You mail me the drive in question, and I'll make it work at full speed.. Then I'll send you back the drive, the MIO, and the cable, set up exactly the way it needs to be..
Hi Ken and Warerat-
Thanks for the explanations and kind offer, but I'd rather not ship out more parts. The sooner I get the mod'ed MIO back, the sooner I can test it.
If the term power mod works as you state, then that is that. Warerat has laid out a clear path.
-Larry
-
YEah.. If youd get your termination correct, you"d get at least 3 times those numbers.. Warerat has repeated his speed results on many different drives.. Proper termination is the key factor..
Hi Ken-
I certainly hope you are correct, but...
Can you or Warerat speculate how termination can be a factor on a non-parity system?
How can bfk2+ and I run the same drive/cpu/cable/Dos (ST31055N) terminated in the same way and get significantly different results?
Hopefully, I'm going to be able to test the ST118273LC very soon with the termination mod in place.
OTOH, I'm intrigued that the read (but not write) speed went up so much when I went to an ultra-short cable (apx 8") between MIO and Drive. Maybe there are "soft errors" that are being corrected in the drive and that is slowing things down. (?) That would seem plausible for data *to* the drive, but not *from* the drive. Confusing -- to me, at least.
Anyway, as soon as I can, I'll test the system(s) as you and Warerat have suggested.
-Larry
-
Here's an interesting one, I think.
I have several ST118273LC drives.
Everything else being equal, here are two sets of speeds from RWTEST.COM (3.5):
"Drive #1" (50-pin ribbon cable)
Writing: 11384
Reading: 13237
Average: 12311
"Drive #2" (50-pin ribbon cable)
Writing: 9648
Reading: 12626
Average: 11137
"Drive #2" (68-pin ribbon cable)
Writing: 9601
Reading: 11448
Average: 10525
Edit:
Here's Drive #2 using an apx. 8" 50-pin cable
Writing: 9648
Reading: 14384 <<---
Average: 12016
Again, repeatable differences and enough here to notice the difference during boot-up, etc.
End Edit:
These aren't huge differences, but the results are very repeatable. Perhaps the firmware is slightly different in the two drives. (?) Then there is the difference between the 68-pin and 50-pin cables (each with it's required adapter.) Again, not a great difference, but the difference is real and repeatable.
Last, if you look at bf2k+'s speeds, he gets several thousand bytes/sec. faster than my speeds using same drive (ST31055N), same dos. Strange. I have another MIO which I'll test soon and add that to the mix. That one has the termination mod, so we'll see if that changes things.
-Larry
-
Atari community,
I am in a quandary regarding my next Atari purchase. Should I buy a 1050 Happy drive upgrade or the AtariMax 8mbit cartridge? Maybe both (but that seems needlessly redundant)? I figure the floppy route with double density and higher speed would be nice but given the scarcity of both media and drive parts and etc it would be a risk to use the drive more than just for show. The 8mbit cartridge on the other hand will probably out live me so no worries on it breaking down.
I have (in the mail) the SIO2USB device but I want to actually use this sparingly simply because I don't want my laptop any where near my Atari. I don't want my laptop to develop an inferiority complex. Plus it seems just wrong to be showing your friends a Atari 800 with all the trimmings with a laptop hanging off an SIO cable.
Thoughts?
I'll give you a different answer. A floppy drive is always useful, and a 1050 Happy is the "best of the best" (IMO of course). But having said that, images are much more convenient than disks. You already have coming to you the one best solution for storage, printing, etc. Spend the money and get the registered APE software. Don't worry about your laptop, they'll develop a nice warm relationship. But if you absolutely want a solution that doesn't require the PC, think about an SDrive.
I would rank things this way:
APE
SDrive (or 2nd choice SIO2SD)
MyIDE using flash card
Disk drive
Flash cart
Things may change, but at this time, flash carts are no so convenient/flexible/reliable as you might envision.
-Larry
-
I'm looking for this game, "Closeout!," that was published in the March 1983 issue of Compute! Does anyone have an ATR of it? Does anyone know where to get it? And, um, has anyone PLAYED this game?
Adam
I believed the "hype" for this game from Compute! saying (IIRC) it was preferred by many folks to commercial games. Sooo, I typed it in, and finally got it right. Being charitable, I'd give this a "2" on a 1-10 scale. I'll look, but I think that I erased the game in disgust shortly after typing it in.
Of course, you might love it, but I *seriously* doubt it.
-Larry
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord
"New Drives" for MIO
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted
First the good news: I won a *new* ST31055N. Pristine, ultra quiet, runs *very cool*. Now the bad news: unlike BF2K+'s drive, my new ST31055N is not compatible with the MIO. It *almost* works -- oh, so very close, but no cigar. So this looks like a firmware difference issue. Hence, here are two questions:
1) BK2K+, what is the firmware of your ST31055N? I'm thinking that somewhere along the way, you mentioned "023" but I can't find that. Mine is "033."
2) I'm pretty sure that using a PC, Seagate firmware can be changed. Has anyone done this? This might be a way to get more drives working, although there certainly is no shortage of good working drives.
-Larry.