Zerosquare

Huh, it is. It's part of the Atari 50 collection: https://atari.com/products/atari-50th-the-anniversary-celebration https://atari.com/pages/atari-50

Aw, sorry that didn't work out.

I can confirm that this game runs (choppily) on a 8086.

No to both questions. There's no bus mastering and no DMA.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132744145103 Not guaranteed to work, since it's sold as a VGA extension cable and some of them don't have all pins wired. But it's pretty cheap, so I'd say it's worth a try.

@WilboDC: looks like your video cables are miswired. Pin 8 on the SCART side is normally connected to pin 11A on the Jaguar side, which supplies ~9 V DC, which should work fine. Anyways, that's interesting. I'd never had guessed that it could cause those weird lines.

Or a PAL console on a TV that only supports NTSC (or the opposite).

Nope. Also, Doom music on the PC uses the OPL2 chip that was on Adlib and Sound Blaster cards, which is definitely custom.

I think you meant to say .

Since the issue appears to be intermittent, I wonder if it's really correlated to the type of video cable, or if it's just a coincidence. Can you connect both the RF cable and the SCART lead to your TV, and switch back and forth between the two inputs when the problem occurs?

This is a very strange fault. Single-pixel gaps are visible in the lines: which strongly implies the problem is in the digital signal generation part. But then, if it was, it would show up on RF as well! Also, the lines are white/grey, so it can't be anything specific to one of R/G/B outputs. As other have said above, I'd recommend cleaning the A/V port and the cable, and trying a different cable if you have one. Maybe there's some kind of weird contact issue or short-circuit inside the cable.

Try JagChris™'s new formula! It's an armchair developer AND an armchair customer service representative!

They're just the maximum resolution that NTSC and PAL themselves allow.

Does the power LED turn on?

Also, try bridging the power switch like this: http://www.mirari.fr/g8w6 Sometimes this component fails.

- Check that no pin is broken on the controller's connector (they bend and break quite easily) - With a multimeter, check the continuity between each pin and the matching wire inside the controller - If you have another controller, check if it works, to make sure the problem is actually the controller and not the Jaguar

The EEPROM size is only 1,024 bits (128 bytes).

Very nice! It definitely has that J-RPG feel. Regarding the music, I agree with the previous comments. The instruments appear to lack good amplitude envelopes, especially the guitar-like sound. Adding progressive attack, decay and release would make them sound more natural.

That's correct. You can run Native using a BJL cable.

It depends on the game. Some have black borders on PAL consoles, some don't. If you're in Europe, you have to use a European PSU, because the input voltage is 230 V. But it will work fine with an American console, because the output voltage is the same for all regions. If you're in France and can't find a PSU with a French plug, you can use the UK PSU with an adapter like this: Or you can use a generic one. There is more information here:

But you've been a naughty boy, haven't you?

Good idea, but I wonder how readable this will be for people who use composite video (or even RF).

I was back to Japan during the last two weeks. Jaguars now sell for almost ¥100,000:

So, you mean the emulator is accurate, after all?

It's fine -- the voltage is higher than the official power brick, but the Jaguar motherboard includes a switched-mode power supply and a 12V input is within the allowed range, so it won't damage it or cause excessive heating. (The audio section is powered by a linear regulator instead, but the current draw is so low that the increased heat is negligible.)