Zerosquare

You can try it and see if it does anything useful

Never used it, but according to the documentation, it doesn't. It does raises the GPU priority on the bus, but if there's no bus contention, it won't make any difference. And if there is bus contention, it causes the GPU to have a higher priority than the object processor, which is something you don't want as it will cause display glitches (as documented in the errata, which tells you not to use DMAEN).

The main bus is 64-bit wide and so is the RAM, so using STORE / LOAD when you could be using STOREP / LOADP reduces performance. Of course, it only matters if you need to transfer more than 32 bits of data.

Go play Supercross 3D for a while, then.

No. Like most retro consoles, the Jaguar outputs a 60 frames/second non-interlaced signal. It's not standard but virtually TVs of the time would display it without problems.

Yes.

...says the guy who plays Bubsy for fun.

If you only want to test controllers, you can skip the trouble and use Matthias Domin's controller test program: http://mdgames.de/jag_eng.htm

Fix that blue signal, that tree looks sick

Yes, these are the final releases for the hires demos. But if I remember correctly, the hires code in qUaKe is a later version with a few enhancements. So if the hires demos don't work properly, try a qUaKe slideshow. Regarding Tempest 2000, there's an "interlace" option you can enable in the settings, but it doesn't actually use interlacing. It just emulates some screen flickering.

@ggn: just to make things clear: - do you still allow the redistribution and usage of the last version of rB+? - would you allow someone else to take over the development of rB+?

That won't help you much, but I had a Jaguar with the same symptoms (except it usually booted successfully). I replaced the capacitors in the power supply section and checked the clock using a scope. Despite spending several hours on it, I couldn't figure out what was wrong.

Albert (AtariAge's owner) had them a few years ago. I don't know if he still does.

You can use a Dremel-like tool to expose the metal inside the plastic package, and solder a wire to it: But in general, if you have a short you can't clear, it's better not to insist. Instead, desolder the IC (using hot air or low-temperature solder like ChipQuik), clear the short, then resolder it. It's annoying but less risky.

No, there's no way to do that with the current version.

Any proof of that, apart from the word of said programmer himself?

Yeah. Said game programmer is also known for his tendency to bullshit.

Matthias' site is still live at http://www.mdgames.de/

The past experience suggests otherwise, as @Welshworrier illustrated above. I'm sorry for suggesting you should spend less time overpromising and more time improving the quality of your games. I won't be doing that again.

Here's an idea. Polish and finish the game you're working on before planning the next one.

Most programmers don't supply voltage to the target circuit, or at least not by default. A 2 A USB phone charger will work fine ; there's no such thing as "too much current" for a constant-voltage power supply (unless you deliberately want to limit the maximum current for safety).

Yes.

Yeah, I was gonna recommend that, but compatibility is indeed a problem.

Albert did buy a set of molds, IIRC.

I see you're using lead-free solder. Leaded solder is easier to work with, and melts at a lower temperature. (But don't mix lead-free and leaded solder, or you'll end up with a weird alloy that's not good). Also, what kind of tip do you use for drag soldering?