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KevinMos3

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KevinMos3 last won the day on January 5 2013

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About KevinMos3

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    River Patroller
  • Birthday June 23

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    Founder of the Timothy Dalton as Bond fan club
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    Behind YOU!

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  1. I have nothing against anyone here and do not wish to make any enemies, although this will surely upset some people. Maybe I'm not seeing it the right way but I have to say it. Why the [email protected]#$% would I want to tune into a live stream to watch an unboxing of games I've been waiting on that I purchased MONTHS ago? This is no slight to Al or anyone. I fully understand the difficulty Al has had and I have been patient and not worried about it at all. He's a good man and I have full trust and confidence in him. But dang, it's like getting sand kicked in my eye or something. I just think it's in bad taste to do this before the games are shipped out to everyone. Call me whatever. Maybe I'm completely wrong here, but that's the way it feels to me. Regardless, I still like you all.
  2. You can format those FAT32, just get a 3rd party app instead of the default windows one. There are plenty of free ones you can find with a quick search.
  3. - My memory card is a high speed one that's been pretty good with every other game that's been reported to work, and a couple that hadn't, so I'm not concerned about it. - My Jaguar is a "K" serial number. I saw you asked for that in an earlier post. - Yeah, I was surprised by how many games worked as well. Don't take my posts as a complaint, just a report so you know of things to check out. I'll try Blue Lightning again later today to see if it happens again. I'm not usually able to complete all the campaigns (speaking from years past), but the South America one is usually pretty easy for me.
  4. I had briefly played Blue Lightning on the GameDrive before yesterday and it seemed to work. However, yesterday I spent a little more time with it and finished a campaign. When it went back to the map to select another campaign, it froze. So I'm wondering if there's an issue with this game on the GameDrive. I was using my own rip because the redump one was not showing icons on the campaign map. But later realized that part seems to be an issue with it running off the GameDrive as sometimes they show and sometimes they don't. BTW, I commented before about where WTR freezes for me, (I know its a known issue), but I didn't comment on how the music does not play when the title screen opens to the demo race. If this game's compatibility gets fixed, I'd imagine it would clear this up as well, but wanted to clarify.
  5. It occurred to me yesterday, that it would be nice to swap the color palettes of Player 1 and Player 2 in Raiden (so that Player 1 is RED and Player 2 is BLUE). I've done color edits on other consoles that are far more simple, (Atari 2600, 7800, Colecovision), but I've never messed with color palettes for the Lynx. I don't imagine a simple swap between the 2 players colors would be too difficult, but I have no idea where to start. I'm not too terrible with a hex editor. Would anyone mind helping me to understand where to look or how to go about it? Would this also require re-signing the cart?
  6. Yes, but I believe that's the emulator interpreting it. Stella works with joysticks and paddles for Kaboom and others. You can play those games in Stella using a joystick or keyboard, but probably wouldn't want to. I haven't had that happen yet. I do like using the paddles on the FB with games that are a little more delay tolerant, like Warlords, Medieval Mayhem (not great, but playable), Breakout, Demons to Diamonds, etc. The one game that is practically unplayable though, is Kaboom. After it speeds up a few times, it gets unplayable with the delay.
  7. That reminds me... The FBs seem to only work with paddles for certain games, which leads me to believe they use checksums or something to know if the game is a paddle game or not. - For example, Kaboom works with paddles, but Kaboom hacks do not. - Medieval Mayhem works with paddles (a homebrew that's been around a while and more likely to be known), but Drive! does not. Has anyone looked into this, and if so, is there a feasible way to make it recognize more games to work with paddles?
  8. Robinson's Requiem is working for me. Ripped with DiscJuggler. First cdi ripped did nothing in cd2jcd, but the second attempt converted and plays fine. Yes, seems CCD format is broken in cd2jcd. It just crashes/exits any time I try an image I've ripped with CloneCD. Tried all the settings as well. Other notes: World Tour Racing ripped/converted/loaded fine. It freezes at the start of a race though. I specify this for clarity, as SainT already said it wasn't working, but I don't know what point others got to with the game. Varuna's Forces - 1st disc fine. Cannot get a good conversion of 2nd disc. I've tried ripping the disc from GoodDealGames and converting a downloaded cdi, but both give the same error result while converting with cd2jcd. SoulStar - Seems to work fine. No music in game. I don't remember if it had music when playing from disc. Jaguar Hockey (disc bought from from JSII many years ago) as well as the downloadable Brett Hull Hockey - Neither will convert with cd2jcd. DiscJuggler rips do nothing in cd2jcd. Isobuster rip to bin/cue give errors when converting. BIWN - Converts, but have not succeeded in booting yet. Elansar & Philia both work fine. Ripped with DiscJuggler.
  9. I LOVE the different car options. Goes great with the different parallax options as well. You've really outdone yourself.
  10. I finally installed the v0.1.9 custom firmware yesterday and then the 1.2Ghz cpu update on my X. I don't mean to bash on the X, but last night I ran into another issue. I left the game sit for a while and when I started playing again, it was SUUUUPER choppy. It acted like it had a memory hole. I've not seen this happen on the 9, so I don't know if it's an issue with the X version of the emulator or what. I'll have to play around with it more later to see when it happens again and exactly what I'm doing before letting it sit, but I wanted to check and see if anyone else had experienced this.
  11. It's been a while since I had mine open, but I do believe there's a nub underneath. What you'll need to do is take your Dpad out and make some precise measurements... I'd imagine anyway. I've only printed, not created 3D models so far. One thing I would suggest is keeping the bottom of the Dpad solid (besides the nub of course). That was the area I had to fill in on the other 3D print because it didn't line up perfectly with the rubber pads underneath.
  12. In 2018, AtGames finally did it right with the Sega FB. The cart dumper was actually more compatible on the 2017 version, but everything else about the 2018 model blows 2017 away. The emulator in the Sega Mini is by M2 and they did a great job... but it's not quite as good of an emulator as the more mature GenesisPlusGX. AtGames gets crapped on a lot for their less-than-stellar products over the years, so some people had a hard time believing the 2018 model was any better. The interface on the Sega Mini is certainly better, but the only way you're going to get better game performance from it is to use a different emulator than the built in one (yes, I know you can load libretro). But, if you're comparing accuracy of the built-in emulators for the two consoles, the Sega FB actually beats the Sega mini.
  13. I tried it on mine without an SD card before I posted. I knew I had done it before, but wanted to make sure I knew the combination. If you look at the description for Secret Quest, it says SELECT and UP. That's a good reminder if you forget. It actually works for the X as well. The problem is that it's a momentary button, so games like Secret Quest work fine, but others may not, depending on how they use the BW/Color switch. It seems if it was made to be compatible with the 7800 pause button (momentary), then it will stick here too. If not, it will only access whatever feature is being used by the button for a second or two, then it will switch back. I should note that I have not tried it with the NEXUS pack, so I do not know if there are changes to various versions of the retroplayer, emulator, or whatever.
  14. The guy you're talking about no longer has his stl file. I have one of his and it is definitely nicer than the stock Dpad that just had the circle with 4 raised lines, although I did have to modify it with some epoxy filler. The FB Portables have 2 different Dpads - one is much taller than the other. If you ever get around to modeling one yourself, and don't mind sharing, please do. I'd love to print a couple.
  15. I've been pretty quiet because I've been so busy with RL and working on this during pretty much all my spare time. I just wanted to focus on getting things done so we could get it out. The controls take some practice, especially on the challenge/skill stages, but if you stick with it, it will feel more natural. The places you might find yourself messing up is accidentally pressing down or up BEFORE pressing the button, causing you to turn around or jump when you meant to low kick or high kick a shuriken or arrow. I've found that I have a much easier time with a regular joystick than with a D-pad. I've mostly played with a keyboard because of testing while working on the game and I thought I'd never be able to reach 20. However, the other night, I got a score of 80 in Game 5 using the Hyperkin Trooper joystick and felt I could have done better if I had more time. I'll have to keep trying to reach 99. So, if I play on the keyboard, I get nowhere. I do a little better with a D-Pad, but a joystick works best for me, by far. Of course, your mileage may vary. I highly recommend starting out with both difficulty switches set to B or Easy. Don't think you're wussing out by doing so. If you find it too easy (pretty sure you won't), THEN change the settings. I hope everyone will have the patience to stick with it to see all the stages. I think we put some nice touches in there as a reward for your diligence. Now for the part that's more my lane... the colors were chosen based on a warmed up 2600 or 7800. It will not look as intended when you first power on a cold console. This is the nature of those "$F" and "$E" color ranges. F might look more brown at first, but will shift toward red once warm. E will look more green at first, but will shift to brown. I've tested the colors on multiple consoles and on a few different TVs (CRTs), but if anyone finds the colors to be displeasing after the console is warm, please let me know. I've been using RF, as my S-video modded 7800 recently started displaying 2600 games with the wrong colors. I'm interested to know how it looks in s-video on other ppl's consoles.
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