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Showing results for tags 'Atari 400'.
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These are now sold, thank you for anyone interested. Collection of spare ICs, and NOS GTIA. Looking for $80 + shipping from Los Angeles. I sold my beloved 400, and forgot that I had bought these. Please let me know if you are interested. Thanks. KB
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With the recent release of the 400 mini, I got back to thinking, Why can't the 400 use a Uno cart? It WILL work on a 400 with the Atari made 48k ram card and it's respected motherboard mod. The Uno can run .roms ( like Commando ) in 64k, so if it's a ram issue, can't we utilize the Uno's sram for that? I'm going to do just the 48k wire mod to a mobo ( no 48k card ), then try it out.
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Atari 400 Keyboard - Shift, Ctrl, Break not working.
slacker posted a topic in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Hi All, I've been working on fixing up an Atari 400 my friend gave me. It started with just getting a BSOD at boot. After attempting to clean and re-seat all the chips on the main board, CPU board, and RAM board with no luck, I picked up a 48k RAM upgrade board. After installing that, the computer booted! All keys on the keyboard worked and was able to use my BASIC cart for a while without any issues. I then I ran into another problem then where the joystick ports didn't work. (Just to note, these didn't work from the start, they didn't stop working after the computer booted for the first time) I was able to get those working by installing a new PIA chip (G65SC21P-2). Things seemed to be fine at this point. I played some games but then had issues with keyboard suddenly missing keys. Surprisingly, pulling and re-seating the PIA chip fixed this even though I was under the impression the keyboard was controlled by the POKEY and the two multiplexer chips. Anyway, long story short, I'm at the point where everything works great except the SHIFT, CTRL, and BREAK keys. These used to work as I was able to program a bit in BASIC earlier but now they're suddenly not working. I should also note, I have a 5200 that I swapped the CPU, GTIA, ANTIC, and POKEY chip back and forth into the 400 and it didn't make any difference to anything. I also swapped around the two keyboard multiplexer chips without any change. I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas or if you guys know what pins I can jump on the keyboard connector to simulate pressing "SHIFT+2" to get a double quote or something. I've been able to jump some pins to get it to display a bunch of characters but I'm not sure what combo is needed to simulate pressing SHIFT. The pinout images I've found online don't seem to match up what I'm seeing on my computer. Basically, I'm trying to rule out if somehow I borked the keyboard taking things apart 1 million times or if some other trace, chip pin, or something is broke or making a bad connection on the main board. Thanks in advance! -
I obtained a local Atari 400, cassette player, and a few cartridges and tapes. My first attempt at powering on the 400 gave me no picture at all, but after doing these things: Re-capping (Console5 re-cap kit) Re-seating / de-oxit all sockets and ICs Measuring PSU outputs Swapping CPU with spare from Apple IIe (not 65C02) ...I got as far as a black screen or dark grey screen. At one point after putting back the stock 6502 I even managed to get a blue screen with cursor for a few seconds. I'd toggle the cartridge port switch a couple of times to make sure this was repeatable, until eventually the black screen wouldn't even come on unless I let the unit rest for a day. Then it goes back to the black / grey screen. I have a 2008 vintage flat panel TV that still works with analogue TV connections as well as composite and S-Video, and have tested said Apple IIe on it. Following the official Atari field service manual it tells me to check the power supply outputs, which are suspect, but then so was my cheap multimeter. I've since obtained a better multimeter. I have one of the CO17945 power bricks and I'm tempted to replace it, though its output AC voltage does look right. From what I'm reading the replacement power supplies out there are half the amperage of this stock one. I'll need to get a scope to check the clock, and I'll likely get one of the cheap ones that work with a modern PC as the display. I'll also need to order some of the smaller pieces that the flowchart says to replace. Is there anything obvious I should attempt aside from what the flowchart already suggests?
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I like my little Atari 400 but in order to use (play games on) it, I need to get the old TV up from it's storage shelf in the basement as the 400 only has RF output. (I also have it's RAM upgraded to 1056k. ? ) While I know there is the SCCC to do this, it's sold out and it's fun to make my own board. So, I just ordered 5 of these boards and should know if it works in a little over 2 weeks. I integrated some of the electronics from the 600XLM board for video and audio. Also, I took my existing 400 CPU board and tested it out with a SALLY chip to make sure I had the theory right. The idea is that a Sally will work if /halt is held high and R/W is connected to pin 36 as opposed to pin 34. It worked. (See second pic. I stacked a couple sockets to jump the R/W and connect to the /halt pin as I don't want to solder to a Sally chip.)
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[Update - I got a 16K 400 to boot a DOS 2.5 image from my SDriveMax. So that works. I’m guessing that sdrive.atr requires more than 16K] I’m trying to test the SIO ports on several 400s. My SDriveMax works fine with my 48K 800 but does not work on multiple 16K 400s. It starts to load but then goes wonky. Can someone confirm the minimum memory requirement for SDriveMax to function? Thanks! FYI - I read that FujiNet requires a minimum of 24K of memory so that’s a no go on stock 400s
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Hi, in the last months I got several reports from users of my SCCC (SuperColor CPU Card) and/or the 48/52 RAM Card for the Atari 400 when using the Atari 400 computer. The bug report was always the same: After (correctly) installing one or both of my expansions, the system starts only in one of ten (...) tries. When it boots up, everything works fine, but in most cases you got only a green (NTSC) or brown (PAL) screen. Of course I´ve searched the failure in my projects, but can´t find any. Five users returned their cards for exchange, but the exchange won´t work better - and all returned cards works flawless at my test systems. Later I got additional response about the exact same problem from users who have UAV installed (plugin version) with directly exchange (replace the 4050 chip with the UAV plugin module). So I examine this behavior more intensive and the reason was found quickly: One of the gates from the 4050 buffer chip is used for strengthen the RESET signal to the CPU and make sure it´s at a defined logic state. So if you removed the 4050 for the installation of an UAV (or the SuperColor CPU Card, even when this is not needed), then the RESET pin 40 at the CPU is floating around and you have an undefined condition. Some CPUs doesn´t care about this and start always even when the RESET input floats around 1.7 volts (for example), others didn´t start up (SYNC = constantly low). However, if you´re using the SuperColor CPU Card and the 4050 is missing: Just plug it in again and the faults should be gone. If you´ve installed the UAV plugin module, then a fix is needed. The TBA manual suggest to solder the UAV plugin module "piggy-packed" onto the 4050, which is one solution. Another solution is to solder the 4050 chip (partly) "down-under". This is useful when you change the hardware some times (like I do in my tests). For permanent usage it´s simpler to install the whole chip OR use the piggy-pack way ? Look for this chip. First bend all pins in the horizontal position. Cut off all pins except pin 1,8,14 and 15 as shown in the picture above. Carefully bend all four pins upright like shown above. Shorten the pins at the half. And solder the chip from the solder side of the Atari 400 mainboard upside-down to the socket pins of the 4050´s place. See here pin 1 (right) and pin 8 (left). And a view from the other side - pin 15 the left, pin 14 to the right next to pin 15. Doing this mod will fit without problems in the metal cage.
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Hello. I recently obtained an Atari 400 labelled as "working". Upon setting everything up, it will only display a green screen. Every time I turn it on, it only displays a green screen. Where should I go from here? What are the most likely causes that I should investigate? Some more info I forgot to include: 1. A green screen is displayed 100% of the time so far. Never a black screen / anything else like some other posts I have seen. 2. I have tried inserting various cartridges, however something is wrong as carts do not click in all the way on this machine (tested and work fine on my other 400). So, I am not sure how to test other functions of the machine using carts until I can figure out this problem. 3. I have used the power supply with another Atari 400 which works fine.
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There is a small hole in the rear of the case other than that it is perfect. The mem upgrade makes it a new machine. Comes with power supply. $100 obo. Thanks, 400_mem.mp4
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Atari 400 with power supply, works great 50$ Plus shipping (OBO). 20201216_171901.mp4
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Ok guys, I’m stuck. I’m only 16 so I don’t reeeeeeeally know what I’m doing, but I need your help! Atariage, I’ve been scammed!! DUN DUN DUUUUUUUUN!! I bought a “working” atari 400 off of OfferUp whose only problem was that it had a cut video cable (Which I replaced with one I pulled from a broken 2600) and no PSU (which I had bought before the system arrived). I, being the idiot I am, DIDN’T test the system before starting my cleaning/retrobrite process (pictures below ;) ). After that week of school I threw the system back together aaaaaaaand... black screen... :( I’ve tried Everything I can think of, I reseated all the chips on the whole computer (cleaning the pins and the sockets as I did), cleaned the the ram and cpu board connectors, started it up with a star raiders cartridge, made sure everything was grounded properly, deoxidized the power jack, cleaned the channel selector, tried multiple tv’s (both new and old), and STILL I get that black screen... WHAT SHOULD I DO?! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Hi everyone. I sold this Atari 400 with 410 recorder on eBay with no only a power cable, no plug attached. The buyer purchased an additionally required cable to hook up to a screen and when he turned on this appears on the screen. The eBayer 100% knows what they are doing and said if I partially refund then he will get it fixed. He only paid £50 for it. Is this a case of cleaning the inside with some alcohol and putting it back together? System hasn’t been used in...25 years. Many thanks for your help.
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======================== EDIT: These items are no longer available. ======================== I recently came into possession of a decent sized collection of Atari gear. I grew up playing games and computing on similar Atari hardware so I'm somewhat familiar with the gear. Despite most of the gear being in excellent condition, it was destined for a trip to the electronics recycler. Recognizing the historical significance of the gear, I snatched it up to ensure that it can live on. I'm looking to sell and redistribute the gear to the community of enthusiasts here to ensure that it can be preserved and enjoyed for many more years. I spent many hours cataloging, testing hardware, photographing everything, and uploading photos. I've done my best to test and verify the functionality of most of the gear in this listing. You can see a list of everything that I have here: https://bit.ly/2qeRtAA Each item includes link to an imgur.com posting with photos. Most items also include a note about the condition of the item. Sorry, it's not the most convenient way to view everything in one shot but it works for me. I didn't include prices on my spreadsheet as I don't really have the time to determine the value of each item. In many ways, the value is really determined by the community here anyway. I would simply ask, if you would like to make an offer for anything on the list, make it a reasonable offer. Also, keep in mind there are shipping costs. Some of the larger items may incur significant shipping costs. I can certainly offer local pickup for anyone in my area. I'm located in south central Pennsylvania (York, PA area). https://goo.gl/maps/bWMy8WTxebmbAu54A Contact me via email or PM if you're interested. -
Is it considered easy or difficult to reprogram games for the Atari 400 or 800 as to run with professional quality on a 5200 system? Are there big differences in 1) hardware 2) program language? I’m very ‘layman’ as to programming and hardware. If its possible, please, describe or explain in quite straightforward or common terminology. -
Hello all, hoping someone here can give me a bit of advice regarding SD card/compact flash cartridge solutions for an Atari 400 - after years (ok, decades) of wanting to play Lucasarts and Llamasoft games on an Atari 8-bit I finally got hold of an Atari 400. Only to find the membrane keyboard had started to die so I couldn't hold down Start when turning on to load from tape. Got that replaced with a new one from Best Electronics (and in the process also discovered it had had a memory upgrade so it's a bit more capable than a stock one) but still having a fair bit of trouble as need to replace the belts in my xc12 and a spring in my 410p. Just about able to get *some* things loaded on the 410 but it's very hit and miss so think what I could really do with is a cartridge solution to load from disk/tape/cartridge images instead. So, what would you recommend for an Atari 400 (with memory upgrade)? I know the atarimax myide2 isn't an option as borrowed one from a friend, only to find it's XL/XE only. I've seen sd2sio and sdrivemax doohickeys going on eBay but would really rather a cartridge solution instead, does such a thing exist or are they all only for XL/XE systems?
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I'm looking for assistance in repairing an Atari 400. It has an intermittent issue with graphics. Sometimes it starts up fine and everything looks normal. When this happens the graphics and colors are fine until the computer is powered off. Other times the colors are off on startup, for instance sometimes when playing Donkey Kong from a cartridge the graphics on the title screen are green. Other times it starts with a white background. The only way to resolve this is to power cycle. Other times sprites are missing. For instance when playing Pac-Man from a cartridge Pac-Man and the ghosts are missing. You can still control the invisible Pac-Man by following the dots as they disappear. You will never die from hitting a ghost. Sometimes when playing Donkey Kong the Jumpman character is missing and just a solid vertical line runs down the screen at the position he should be in. Again only power cycling will resolve these issues. Any ideas what can cause this? Could it be the ANTIC? Any help would be appreciated. Nick
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So I am working on a Atari 400 I picked up at a rummage sale (I am new to classic Atari systems) Blank screen so I do a little research and pop it open and find this board inside. It is connected to a SPDT switch that needed to be replaced. I got the 400 working but have no clue what this is or what the switch does. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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I'm working on getting Atari 8-Bit set up in RetroPie using the Atari800 emulator and most everything seems to be working just fine except for this: My WASD keys don't deliver any input at all. I've tried multiple keyboards, checked to make sure they aren't currently bound to joystick controls in the emulator and I assume there is somewhere in the emulator which is binding them to "movement" but I can't seem to find it. So right now, any game that requires pressing "S" to start, like the Scott Adams adventure games, I can't do anything with because my "S" key doesn't work. I've scoured Google looking for solution but it seems there aren't many people who have set up Atari800 on the RetroPie because it most certainly isn't the most user friendly of emulators. Anyone else run into this same issue and found a solution? Thank you in advance for your help!
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The Adventures of Bounty Bob, brave Cananian Mountie on the trail of Yukon Yohan. Bounty Bob, who looks neither like a Mountie, nor like the miner on the box covers and as the title would suggest. Until now. With sprite designs by TIX, and sprite hacks by your's truly, I introduce to you the burley Miner 2049er! Click here to download Prior revisions and the thread on how this was hacked here
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Latest pick-ups and items already in my collection
Crimson70 posted a topic in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Picked up an Atari 400 and 130xe with loads of software this week. Tried getting it working allong with an 810 disk drive. However the coaxial cable is damaged so thinking about doing an a/v mod on it.
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Being a relatively new Atari 400 owner I've been hunting around for lots of Atari 8-bit computer game cartridges lately, and today I got a couple games in the mail that surprised me in that they simply would not fit in the Atari 400's cartridge port. The cartridge shells are too wide to make it more than halfway down the cartridge port and they snag up on the metal shielding rather quickly. Has anyone else experienced problems like this, and are there any other games known to not fit in the Atari 400's cartridge port? Specifically I'm wondering whether or not there are issues with any of the Parker Bros. and Activision carts, since those are the main third party games I'd like to play. -
Hey there lovely people. I just got my first classic computer in the mail today, an Atari 400, and it worked great for about 2 hours. However a problem soon arose that I could use some advice on. The problem is that the all of a sudden the computer thinks the + key is being held down, so when I load Atari BASIC or just boot into the built in notepad application with no cartridge inserted all I get is a continual stream of + symbols and can't enter any other inputs. The strange thing is that if I power the computer off and leave it alone for 10 minutes or so then come back and power it on everything works as normal again about half the time, including the + key. I can press the + key all I want and can't make it stick again, but after a few minutes of use it will go back to thinking the + key is held down even if I don't touch the keyboard at all. So what I'm trying to figure out is whether the keyboard needs to be replaced (which would be quite unfortunate since I blew all my discretionary funds for the month on the computer itself and wouldn't be able to afford to replace the keyboard until at least next month) or whether this could be an issue with another piece of hardware in the computer. I've read that the POKEY chip is responsible for interpreting all the keyboard inputs in the Atari 400, so is it possible that a failing POKEY chip might create an issue like the computer thinking a key is being held down when it isn't? Any advice on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
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I recently purchased an Atari 400 computer, a handful of games for it, and a book on learning Atari BASIC. Now as I begin learning BASIC I could really use a way to save my programs and play disk based software, so I'm in the market for a 1050 disk drive that is in good cosmetic condition and proper working order with the power supply included. I'm looking to spend around $85 shipped on the disk drive and it doesn't need to have any custom modifications like Happy or anything like that, a plain old standard slow speed drive will do just fine for my needs. I'd also be interested in purchasing a 48K memory upgrade for my Atari 400 at some point, though acquiring a 1050 disk drive and some blank 5.25" floppy disks to use with it is my first priority. Thanks for taking the time to view my ad and if you happen to have a working 1050 disk drive in nice condition that you'd like to sell then feel free to shoot me a PM about it!
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Altirra HELP! How do I re-dock the display window in Altirra?
StinkerB06 posted a topic in Emulation
There's no way!!! help!!! -
I have 2 copies cab with warranty card. Asking $50 shipped each. Or $90 for the pair. Let me know if you'd like more pics. Thanks.
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