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Hi, I recently got back into repairing my old Colecovision after taking it apart last year. Now it is working perfectly and all back together but the eight screws that hold the case together are missing. I can't find the little container I put them in. Does anyone know what size these screws are ? Thanks.
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I have a roller controller I bought a year or two ago and I recently decided to revisit it. After looking up compatible games, I found that Centipede is the only game I own that works with the roller setting. It doesn't do anything when it's on. On joystick mode, it's pretty slow, requiring a lot of spinning to move the "player" very far. How responsive is the trackball supposed to be? And has anyone ever dealt with issues like this? Any suggestions? I suspect I have a turkey. Shame, cause it's in great cosmetic shape and I love trackballs in general.
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Hello to all, I've just decided to create a type of Mission emulator for the SG-1000 and Master System. It can be seen here: https://www.smspower.org/forums/17943-MissionForSG1000BasedOffOfMSXVersionByMarcelDeKogel This was also based off of Mission for MSX by Marcel De Kogel. This post has been edited.
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Hello I noticed there were some new joypads on a different topic but the problem is I prefer sticks. (And also the pad isn't ambidextrous when it easily could be by 180ing the design.) I kind of like the design of the super action joysticks but the problem is they are very fragile. I know that you have to take your joy sticks to the sanding spa every so often cuz those buttons will stop working. I have occasionally fixed paddles by isopropylholing the potentiometer chamber, and I may have fixed minor ColecoVision super action button failure,. But if minor cleaning doesn't fix it it needs to go to the spa. first of all are there any ColecoVision super action controller repairers for hire? Second I noticed that best electronics California has made super buttons for the 5200 controllers. Maybe there's a way we could have built a bionic super action controller, with buttons that are way less maintenance then the original ones. I assume the buttons are considered digital and not analog. if that's the case then why can't we replace them with more Street Fighter type buttons except contoured to be grabbed like a super extra controller, like finger bumpers? of course if the buttons were originally designed as analog, that would kind of kill the whole point. Likewise I noticed when I took it apart the joystick was an eight-part Daisy wheel that had eight separate actuators for each of the eight diagonals. this implies that someone was thinking of making it a 16 way controller if you tween between a cardinal and a diagonal and get a tertiary. Do any of the super action specific games utilize 16 way motion? If none of the games require 16 ways of motion then maybe I have a theory of how to make a joystick and have it be preserved. I assume you can use a real roller from the super extra controller and real keypad and Y-connect them with a dual DB9 and not touch the joystick and button functions on the real controller and have a more durable, auxiliary fightstick be adaptable for the ColecoVision. I have bought a fightstick PCB from Edladdin for that specific purpose. Maybe it is a waste of money to have super extra controllers just repaired with the exact same OEM parts that are going to break apart the exact same way. if that's the case I should just hope the keypad and roller still work and Y-connect them and hook up with a real fight stick that you would find in the fight stick community.
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I have two Colecovisions, one of which works. I bought it after I received the first one, which I was told had spent about 20 years in a roofless shed in a hurricane-prone area. Needless to say, it does not function properly. Lately I have been getting into modding older game consoles (I just finished overclocking a model 1 Sega Genesis with a VA7 board), and so now I have turned my attention to repairing the broken Colecovision. The primary issue is that, upon turning it on, there is only a black screen with a constant tone. No BIOS screen is displayed. From what I have read on this site and others, this is a somewhat common problem without a clear culprit. That being said, I have played around with the Colecovision and have drawn the following conclusions: 1. The problem must not be the power supply, since it properly powers the working Colecovision. Also, the Atari 2600 module still works with the broken Colecovision, so it must be getting enough power. I have also tested this with a second power supply. 2. The problem may be the power switch, but I doubt it. Even when I would get the Atari 2600 module to work, it occasionally took a couple of turn-on attempts and some pressure on the power swtich. However, I have never seen the Colecovision BIOS screen appear, and I would assume that if the issue was just poor switch contacts that I would eventually get the BIOS screen to appear. 3. The sound chip works. This I assume because I still get a constant tone when I turn it on, and the tone isn't always the same. I'm guessing it's just outputting whatever random value it starts with. I've wondered if this implicates the CPU or the BIOS since I would assume one of the first things it would do is set the sound chip to output no sound. 4. The video chip probably works. I found that with a cartridge inserted, I could occasionally get random color bars to appear on screen after jiggling the power switch some or rapidly turning the console on and off. However, it's very rare that I manage to achieve this, and I only remember it happening from when I first attempted to repair the console a few years ago. At this point, I am unsure about how I should proceed, and so I humbly ask for your advice on this issue. Specifically, I want to know the following: 1. Which component is most likely to fail and cause this to happen? 2. If a chip has failed, I know that most of them are (or were) common and could be replaced, but what about the BIOS chip? I'm sure these can only come from other Colecovisions, and I would prefer to repair mine with destroying another. If I do need to replace the BIOS chip, would it be possible to create a custom chip? 3. Could it be a capacitor? I've never encountered a faulty dielectric capicitor, but I've read that their tops puff out when they leak. How visible is that effect? 4. What can I do to diagnose the problem? If need be, I might be able to borrow an oscilloscope. 5. I've seen mention of a Colecovision service manual which gives detailed information on how to test each of the components. Does a .pdf of it exist anywhere? Any input on this problem would be much appreciated.
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Hey everyone! I'm currently trying to repair a ColecoVision and my Google searches make me believe that this is the forum where the experts reside Originally the CV just produced a black screen and made a weird droning noise. I found that one of the SRAM chips and one of the DRAM chips had heavily corroded legs. I also checked all the busses with my logic analyzer. CPU-side looked normal to me, but the data bus of the VDP just remained low aside from a couple of quick bursts at the beginning. So I decided to change all the RAM chips and do the 5V mod along the way. The solder at the legs of the corroded DRAM chip unfortunately was like stone and I did not manage to get it out without destroying a couple of traces and had to add a couple of botch wires. (Overall I have to say the CV is the worst soldering experience I had so far, I constantly have to work with 400dC+ and still have a hard time getting the solder to meld). Added the new chips (SRAM: Intel SAB2114PTL, DRAM: TI TMS4164-20NL), powered on the console and... garbled graphics... But well, clear improvement over a black screen. First thing I thought is that I didn't solder properly somewhere. In the meantime, however, I checked for continuity and shorts 3 times and am fairly certain that everything is connected properly. So I assumed that maybe one of the DRAM chips was bad and replaced them one by one. Replaced the 4th, and.... SUDDENLY THE PICTURE LOOKED PERFECT! YAY!!! Until I tried to switch it on again the next day. Back to garbled graphics... Coincidentally I also had a C64 with bad memory laying around, so I replaced the chips in there with sockets, added a new batch of my TMS4164 and ran a RAM tester for a couple of passes - it did not find any problems. Then I moved the whole batch of tested chips into the CV. Turned it on and... everything was fine again! Until I tuned it off and on a couple of times. Back to garbled graphics... So I moved the whole batch from the CV into the C64 and reran the RAM test. And this time, one of the chips reported as bad. This makes me think that the CV kills the chips somehow. Voltages at the chips are too low rather than too high for my taste: 4.5-4.7V when turned on. PSU when CV is turned off gives about 5.1V. I found someone else in this forum reporting the same voltage drop problems after doing the 5V RAM mod, but there was no resolution (I unfortunately can't find the post anymore). I checked for shorts and found that I have a resistance of about 340Ohms between GND and +5V, which seemed weird to me. But according to this post, it seems to be normal. I did the 5V mod following this document. I'm not really comfortable with the A7 pin of the 4164 being connected directly to VCC. I'm not super experienced with electronics, but shouldn't there be a resistor inbetween to limit the current flow when pulling that pin high? Any ideas about what might be going on are highly appreciated!
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This one seems a little special as it represents a couple of world firsts (I'm assuming), so I figured I'd give this one it's own thread. It's probably the first ever, arcade-accurate, Tutankham controller...that wasn't in an arcade cabinet. It's also probably the first ever, ColecoVision twin-stick controller. So unveiling my Tutankham Edition - VVG Experience Controller: Built into a structurally enhanced and weighted, Hammond Mfg. 20" x 11.25" sloped top aluminum enclosure...and featuring: *WICO 4-way, red ball knob, leaf-switch joystick ("Left" joystick for movement--wired to ColecoVision joystick) *WICO 2-way, red ball knob, leaf-switch joystick ("Right" joystick for firing--wired to ColecoVision left / right fire buttons) *Arcade 4-piece, red leaf-switch, push-button (Flash Bomb button--wired to simultaneous left & right fire buttons) *Arcade 4-piece, white leaf-switch, push-buttons (P1 & P2 start buttons, wired through a 3 position, dual-pole rotary switch to the keypad buttons 1,2,3 & 4,5,6 respectively, for game selection/start) *NKK momentary push-button w/ clear flip-cover (wired to access the game selection/start menu after your game is over) *The controls are arcade accurate, including their spacing & arrangement, and the artwork is copied/redrawn from the original arcade cabinet art. So now finally, some 38 years after it's original release...I present the proper way, to play the best home port of Tutankham ever commercially released! Enjoy.
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For sale (all clean, tested, working): SOLD Intellivision II - console, 2 controllers, original power supply, RF cable - $60 plus actual shipping. Colecovision - console, 2 controllers, original power supply, RF cable - $75 plus actual shupping Retron 3 - console, 2 wireless controllers, power supply, AV cable - $45 plus actual shipping Gameboy Color - console, some scratches on screen - $25 plus actual shipping Nintendo 64 / N64 - console, jumper pak/memory expansion, arcade shark panel joystick, power supply, AV cable - $75 plus actual shipping See pictures. PM me if interested or for more pics/info. NES Top Loader w/ Original Video & Power Cable - $75 + actual shipping SOLD! These are still available: N64 Console w/ w/ Original Video & Power Cable - $60 + actual shipping N64 Arcade Shark Controller - $25 + actual shipping
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In this video I explain why you should pre order Dead Tomb and a CollectorVision Phoenix while you can.
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There's a space theme on Instagram this week and I shared The Official Space Fury by Sega from 1982 seen here with my CollectorVision Phoenix. Played this game a ton as a kid and it's still great today. It's similar to Asteroids only you're shooting at these geometric shapes that merge together to form one big object. You can also choose three different upgrades after the first few levels. This copy is sealed since I have a loose cartridge. Check out that before and after discount price on the tag!
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Hi, Burning Disc is not dead. Final name about my Winjammers project for Colecovision is Wind Edge. Link to Wind Edge Completed : - Entirely playable - Six functinals courts - Efficient AI about moves - Specials attacks working - Include sounds - Operational two player mode To do list : - Fix a lot of glitches (especially in one player mode) - Add more gfx - Improve AI about attacks and opponent behavior (too efficient about the latter) - Add more music and sfx - Optimize code
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Q*bert for ColecoVision played on a CollectorVision Phoenix in HD! I played this in arcades as a kid but never really had the patience for it. I appreciate it more as an adult although the game play can still leave you a bit disoriented. But it's still a really cool game and this is the best port of it.
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OK, I am having some difficulty with a device I just obtained (it was given to me). I know nothing about Rasberry Pi's or the RetroArch scene. This device is running RetrOrangePi and while everything is working in general terms, there is one problem. When I try to play a ColecoVision game, it boots to MSX. I know BlueMSX needs to be configured to run ColecoVision, but I have no idea how to configure it within this framework. Can anyone tell me how to do this? Please treat me like I'm stupid because when it comes to this thing...I am.
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By now I believe most of you are aware about the big drama between Coleco versus this community. We got to the point where I just gave up on hope we can do anything to fix this ( and doesn't involve submitting to their absurd terms), so it is time to move on with what we have. We are in the middle of pre-orders for the 4th run of the Super Game Module. Using the ColecoVision logo is no longer an option, so after a couple of weeks pondering on the matter, I have decided to go with the following name and logo. Packaging will be changed to reflect that. In fact the main reason to chose this particular logo is that, in my view, this is the closest we can get to the original, keep some of same look and feel and still avoid future entanglements. I apologize if this is frustrating for some of you. Believe me, this is frustrating for me as well, but at the same time is beyond my control. Quality will still be the same, and most important, passion is still the same. Pac-Man DX is coming around the same time as the 4th run ships and Donkey Kong will be available later this year. Let's not allow this whole mess destroy our love for the ColecoVision, our enthusiasm and all the fun we always had and some that still to come. Ed
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Hey, guys. I have a thread on the Intellivision forum for the Flashback adapter cables I make (that allow using Intellivision Flashback controllers on the original consoles), but I'm also making Colecovision Y-adapter cables, and have 6 foot db9 extension cables available: Colecovision Y-Adapter cables - allows connection of standard Colecovision system controller with an additional compatible joystick (Atari 2600, etc) without the need to unplug / swap controllers one at a time. It should also work fine on other consoles that use db9 connectors - but I only tested on a Colecovision: These are $10 each. If desired, you can specify the color of the heat shrink tubing (black, blue, red, green, yellow, white). If not specified, you will receive whatever color I have in stock at the time. Approximate length is 18 inches. Standard db9 controller extension cables - 6 foot length (for Colecovision, Intellivision II / Sears consoles, Atari 2600 / 7800, Sega Genesis, Atari and Commodore computers; basically anything that uses a standard db9 type connector): These are $6.50 each or two for $12 ----------------------------------------------- Please send me a PM here on Atari Age if you are interested in any of these cables. Include your shipping / address information, and preferably an email address, and I will get back to you with a total. Payment is via PayPal. Credit cards (processed through my business - White Flag Computing) are also an option if you don't use PayPal. You can also email adapters@intellivisionaries.com instead of sending a PM if you prefer. Shipping is not included in the above prices. USA orders will be shipped via USPS Priority Mail (usually flat rate small box, which is $5.95). International orders will be shipped via USPS International First Class (padded mailer - price varies depending on weight and destination). Thanks!
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I have an untested ColecoVision Expansion Module #2. It does not include a foot pedal or battery cover. Looking for $5 plus shipping. Give me your zip code, and I'll calculate shipping. The package weighs over 2 lbs.
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