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Found 3 results

  1. I am looking for defective (non-working) Raspberry Pi units. One of each: Pi 0 - any flavor (no header - please) Pi 1 Model A (I know it is obsolete, but the new Model 3 A+ is the same layout) P1 2 or 3 (any flavor) All standard components need to be present. I am looking for defective, non-working, units to use as physical models to help with future project designs. I don't want to damage mine during "how does it fit" handling. I don't want to pay for a non-working piece of garbage, but I will pay for reasonable shipping from US locations to Northern California. If the location is in the Silicon Valley, or other select NorCal locations, then maybe instead of shipping maybe we can meet up and I'll pay for lunch
  2. Just finished this little guy for Pi day. Thought I'd post it. I Have actually been working on this project for a couple months now but I had set Pi day as my target finish date. I just barely got It done. I thought I would like to show it off, offer this as a tutorial, or just offer it up for some inspiration. This I my brand new all purpose vintage computer emulation device with a real classic look! BEFORE AFTER I am very interested in vintage computing and my goal is to make this a multi computer emulation machine with kind of a classic feel. I had stumbled upon an old Ultratec teletype machine for $1.50 at a thrift store. I thought it would make a sweet little Raspberry Pi case, but there were a lot of little issues that I had too work around. Most of these issues revolved around the keyboard. It lacks important keys, and there is no way to hook it up to the Pi. I came up with a very time consuming work around. I first took a dremel and literally hacked off the back half of the teletypes main board. The wires you see at this point were just test leads. I then had to take a dremel bit and cut all of the circuit traces connecting the keyboard keys on both sides of the board. On the outside of the teletype I used the area that housed the teletype screen to create a button panel out of tactile switches. There are 20 switches. Now on the Pi I plan to map each one of these keys with alternate shift functions. This will give me 40 more keys to play with. This solved the problem with the missing keys. I bought a cheap usb keyboard and removed the circuit board. I removed the two plastic sheets with the keyboards key matrix printed on them. I used fine point sharpies to map the key map connections of the usb keyboard. I made lots of charts and lists of the connections. Using this I rewired the teletype key board and my key panel into the usb key board circuit. This required massive amounts of soldering and wire connections. I also included a wire harness between my own key panel so that I can disconnect if need be. Every key is wired to the key that it corresponds with on the usb keyboard. This solved the problem of connecting it to the I will however still have to make a few adjustments using xmodmap. I bought a powered usb hub and removed most of the usb ports. I carefully cut holes for usb ports on the back of the teletype. I glued them into place with some JB weld and used wires to connect them back to the hub. I also connected the power for the usb hub to the barrel connector that was there for the teletype's power. I also used original power switch of the teletype to turn my usb hub on and off. I also have my Raspberry Pi powered with the hub so the switch turns everything on and off. I bought a 6" hdmi extension cable and mounted it where the phone connections used to be on the teletype. The teletype I used had a battery compartment on the bottom. I removed the battery holder. I cut a slit in one of the walls of this compartment just big enough to slide a sd card through. I mounted my Pi and my usb hub on a piece of acrylic screwed into the bottom of the teletype. I oriented my Pi so that the sd card would go through the hole I cut. Now I have easy access to my sd card though the battery door. Finally I found some I Home speakers that when trimmed fit perfectly into the cups for the teletypes modem. So don't be fooled by the image with the rotary phone. Thats just for show. Those cups are now speakers for my PI. I am now mostly done with hardware mode and ready to go into software mode. I have the Pi set up with PiMAME, and I am emulating c64 that way. I want to make individual sd cards that will boot directly into certain emulators. That way changing systems will be as easy as swapping out sd cards. I also have plans to use it as a file server to my atari computer using AspeQt. Best of all my Pi wont look out of place next to my old machines. I hope some of you found this useful. This was a huge learning experience for me and hopefully this will inspire someone else. I am planing some more modifications and features. I will post updates if there is interest.
  3. While archiving my collection it hit me: That Banana Pi I use at the bi monthly Retro meeting here in the Netherlands can also make use of the trick that The Montezuma used to connect a Raspberry Pi as a disk drive for the Atari. Up until now I dragged along SIO2PC device(s). With the Raspberry Pi craze, several parties also wanted a piece of the pie. LeMaker came up with the Banana Pi, also a SoC, but with a little beefier specs, like gigabit ethernet, more RAM and a power switch. Another thing the Banana Pi has more of than the Raspberry Pi is four(!) UART interfaces. So, plenty of ways to connect to the SIO port. I picked the UART1, located on J12, as on the same row there is 3.3V and GND available, making it very easy to use a 4 pin connector I had lying around (an old CD Rom sound cable). The PinOut of the Banana Pi, as you can see J12 consist of 2 rows with 4 GPIO pins, the top four (2,4,6, being 3.3V, RXD, TXD, GND: Details of all pins: I haven't created a nice graphic representation of the connections, but the text version looks like this: Connect Banana Pi J12 pins 2,4,6,8 to a level converter at its LV side. On the HV side of the level converter, connect a 1N581[789] Diode between the level converter and pin 3 of the SIO port. The connections should match below matrix: *** Atari TO Level Shifter SIO 3 (Data IN) - DIODE (1N581?) - HV1 * Via diode (for example 1N581[789]) direction from Atari to the level shifter * SIO 5 (Data OUT) - HV2 SIO 10 (+5V) - HV SIO 4 (GND) - GND *** Level Shifter TO Banana Pi LV1 - J12 Pin 6 (TxD) LV2 - J12 Pin 4 (RxD) LV - J12 Pin 2 (+3,3V) GND - J12 Pin 8 (GND) As you may notice, I did not connect SIO 7 (COMMAND), it should not be needed when you use sio2bsd or Respeqt. You can use the software attached to these posts on the Banana Pi as well. Depending on the linux distribution you use, it could be that your UART is connected to something other than ttyS3, to be sure, put an ATR on the SD card and use the following script to check 1. whether your cable works, 2. what terminal the J12 UART is connected to: ### Note: this runs as user root. If you are not running as root user, run 'sudo su -' first. for DEV in {0..3}; do echo -e "\nTesting connection on ttyS${DEV}\n\n" sio2bsd -s /dev/ttyS${DEV} -f /root/atari/disks/demo/numen.atr done The output should be something like: Testing connection on ttyS0 D1: 769 sectors, 196480 bytes total, mounted on /root/atari/disks/demo/numen.atr PERCOM: trk 1, step 3, spt 769, heads 1, bps 256, flags 04 (SMALL-MFM-5.25INCH) PCLink directory filter allows lower case names Serial port: /dev/ttyS0 POKEY quartz 1781618.500000 Hz and HS Index 0 constant 7.186100 is assumed Default speed: HSINDEX=40 (19200 bits/sec.) Default turbo: HSINDEX=0 (123963 bits/sec.) User selected: HSINDEX=0 (123963 bits/sec.) Next, power on the Atari connected to the Banana Pi. If your cable works and the script arrived at the correct terminal, you should see something like: 0 -> 'S': $31, $53, $0000 ($84) ... 3 -> 'R': $31, $52, $0003 ($86) If not, on the Banana Pi terminal, press CTRL+C and reset the atari from the Self Test screen (at the READY prompt, type 'BYE' and at the green screen press RESET). If your machine doesn't boot for the selected floppy, check the connections between the Pi and the Atari, verify if the floppy file on the Banana Pi exists and can be accessed (sio2bsd will display an error if it can't open the .atr file). If you want to be really fancy, create a second cable and connect it to another UART and use the banana pi as a terminal for bbs access at the same time. Hope that you too can put that Banana Pi to good use now.
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