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Found 40 results

  1. Hello all Signed up here to ask for help regarding RGB output for G7000 / G7400. In short, I need to record a bunch of videos of various Videopac games for my project 8bitmemoirs.com For this reason, one of my mates have modded my G7000 to have RGB output, but it's displaying wrong colours. I found a video on YouTube demonstrating the exact same problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ct6Wv3eyPzM#t=2m20s Notice the red and blue is way too dark. That's not how the colours are supposed to look in that game ("Race"). So for a short while I gave up on RGB and asked my mate to instead put in a composite mod, which he did, and it works but the picture is just as awful as an RF signal. Therefor I'm back to hunting a good RGB solution signal now. So I have 3 questions for you all: 1) Does anyone know why the colours are too dark with an RGB mod for G7000? Is there anything we can do about it? 2) Is the RGB output better on the G7400? And is it easy to add an RGB mod to the G7400 that doesn't come with one pre-installed? 3) Are there anyone here who has a spare G7400 with RGB output they'd be interesting in selling? Some pictures demonstrating my problem: http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?88818-Help-requested-for-RGB-output-for-Philips-G7000-Videopac Thanks!
  2. I put together a few INTYs with RGB and power LED, I've one for sale now. eBay Auction -- Item Number: 232273666426 I realize I'm no veteran so here are links to my work... http://atariage.com/forums/topic/262378-intellivision-rgb-install/ http://atariage.com/forums/topic/263108-intellivision-power-led-light-pipe/
  3. From the album: INTV

    Intellivision RGB mod installed. RGB board mounted on mobo instead of inside case.

    © TJW2019

  4. So I made a bunch of RGB, S-Video, and AV mod kits for various systems. They are all licensed under CC-BY-NC-SA 3.0 I do not know anything about who has the intellectual property rights to the circuits themselves, I only designed the boards. [i will eventually go back and either link sources or come up with my own circuits to negate potential claims] on a related note I need an O-scope If someone has a claim and does not want these listed/sold etc, PM me or something. I only sell the ones that I have rights to. (To clarify the THS7314 RGB mod kits I sell are pretty much exactly what is in the specs in the PDF for the thing itself. I have rights only over the physical board design) Specifically for personal use and or installing inside of other peoples systems I don't care at all if you print these and install them as part of a 'mod service'. https://easyeda.com/hotdog6394
  5. So I completed the G7400 RGB addition mod as described here. It was surprisingly simple and took me about an hour to finish. I now need to build the 8 pin DIN to SCART cable. I am not familiar with building these, but I can't imagine it would be too difficult. So I hope someone here could give me some tips to help me complete it. Here is DIN Connector Pinout (according to the website at the link above) 1: RGB status (75 Ohm, 3 V) 2: Ground (0 V) 3: Blue (75 Ohm, 0.7 Vtt) 4: Composite Video (CVBS) (75 Ohm, 1 Vtt) 5: Red (75 Ohm, 0.7 Vtt) 6: Status CVBS (VCR) (10 kOhm, 12 V) 7: Sound 8: Green (75 Ohm, 0.7 Vtt) Here are my questions: 1) Do I add a 10 kOhm resistor to scart pin 6 and 75 Ohm resistors to scart pins 1, 3, 4, 5, and 8? 2) Does the symbol on scart pin17 (see fig) mean that I just connect it to the metal connector (pin 21)? 3) Are there any other components that I should be adding to the cable? Any help or additional info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  6. Hi! I have a question about the Sega Dreamcast's VGA and RGB output, specifically the Toro VGA box. The reviews I have read and Behrbros official site say that using the built in option to change RGBhv Sync to RGBs Sync can allow the VGA box to be used with upscales like the XRGB Mini. Does this just refer to 240p/480i RGB output, or is there a way to access 480p via RGBs to output to a device like the XRGB Mini? Does the Mini accept VGA somehow with an adapter as long as the VGA has been converted to RGBs Sync, or can 480p be outputted via SCART/JP21? If anyone can shine light on whether this hv to s sync conversion is just for 240p and 480i or also for 480p and an upscaler it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  7. NOTE: THIS GUIDE IS NOT YET COMPLETE IN THIS ONE POST! THERE IS PLENTY MORE TO KNOW AND I'M JUST GETTING STARTED! CHECK BACK IN LATER POSTS FOR MORE INFO! Hello AtariaAge! This is a guide I've wanted to put together for a while about getting the best possible image (and audio!) quality from all of your retro consoles, including Nintendo, Atari, Sega, Sony, Microsoft, and even other consoles like the Colecovision, TG-16/PCE, Neo Geo, and Intellivision! IMHO one of the coolest things about collecting games today is the fact that we can experience them better now than we did years ago with the new technology available to consumers via the magic of the internet. If you've ever wanted to make your games look amazing on real hardware, this is the guide for you! Check out this comparison! It is truly stunning to see. For starters, you need to understand the issue non-HD consoles present: to plug into the largest amount of standard consumer televisions, all consoles from the Atari 2600 all the way until the Wii were packaged with either a Coaxial RF (Radio Frequency) cable or composite RCA cables. These pack all of the audio and video into one and three cables respectively. The video is condensed and is ruined before it even reaches your TV. However, with the power of better cables many systems can output superior quality right out of the box! Take the SNES (non-mini) for example. It can output a superior Video signal! Check out this comparison! It is even more stunning in person! However, the SNES can still do even better! RGB is a video signal that carries the video and audio over even more pins than S Video, separating the red, green, and blue parts of the image. Most RGB signals are carried over SCART cables, which were popular in Europe but never available in the USA: Here it is! The glory of RGB! However, you may have already noticed an issue here: even if your console does output a superior signal like S Video, RGB, Component, or VGA, how do you display it? Like I said no American TVs had SCART inputs ever. Also, what about systems that don't output anything anything above RF, let alone RGB, like the Atari 2600 and ColecoVision? Don't worry, there's much more to come very soon! This is just a teaser post for anyone who hasn't been lucky enough to see the glory of RGB and retro consoles looking their best.
  8. Title says it all. Interested in an Atari 2600 with Tim's RGB/Component mod and an Intellivision II with the RGB mod. Euro SCART cable is prefered with both. Thanks!
  9. so i have at long last with a lot of work got the French RGB colecovision board i have in my possession working once again. my question is does anyone know a fill pinout for the motherboard RGB connector. i have looked on http://www.colecovision.dk/technical.htm i have also looked on http://www.nightfallcrew.com/14/06/2009/cbs-colecovision-secam-rgb-hackcbs-colecovision-secam-rgb-hack/ they are both incorrect, and so my first attempt produced a pretty pants cable that was not fit to be used (wrong colours etc) I have finally got a rgb picture out of it using a combination of them both and my own judgement but the other pins in the connector provide voltage when measured against the board ground that is not documented on any site. do we know what the other pins do. also what are i would like to just put this out there for comments, the audio from the RGB connector is incredibly weak, i was thinking of using a transistor or maybe two paired together to increase the power of this so you don't have to have the tv on max to hear anything (hopefully will result in less interference buzz from whatever is causing that! i will post a completed pin out later that i know that is as good as i can get it. but the other pins i will need a bit of help maybe with someone with a proper French RGB cable any info greatly appreciated
  10. Does anyone happen to have the precise RGB color codes for the standard TI-99/4A color palette? I am trying my hand at porting some of my old programs and want to keep a similar aesthetic. TI Color Codes: 2 - Black 3 - Medium Green 4 - Light Green 5 - Dark Blue 6 - Light Blue 7 - Dark Red 8 - Cyan 9 - Medium Red 10 - Light Red 11 - Dark Yellow 12 - Light Yellow 13 - Dark Green 14 - Magenta 15 - Gray 16 - White RGB Equivalents? ... Thanks! Zachary
  11. I have this strange problem with my CRT when running games via RGB, the right side of the screen seems to have some kind of colour bleed or something. It doesn't happen when running the games via composite and I checked the SCART cables, all the pins seem to have the correct components and wiring. Here's Sonic on the Mega Drive, it seems that the background colour bleeds through to the front. Depending on the main colour used in the background layer, that is usually the one that comes on top, like the casino zone or which ever has a reddish background, the red would show on top instead. It's less visible on the PS1 as it only comes across as barely visible white instead. The TV's a PAL Sony Trinitron from around the early 2000's, not used excessively I don't think, it's just strange that this only happens when using RGB. Anyone have any ideas or experience with this kind of thing?
  12. Hi! We just talked about the 7800, compatibility and models on a German forum. When I asked about the French RGB model a friend told me he has one, and while it has the scart output, the signal is no picture is no better than when you get your normal 7800 modded for cinch. So basically, the standard AV signal output through an RGB plug in the end. Does anyone have experience with this? Maybe his unit is only defective. I am a sucker for RGB, in the last 15 years all my consoles had at least RGB. The ones that do not (N64, Atari 2600, NES) I barely turn on. True RGB should be remarkably better than normal AV. No color bleeding, vibrant and calm colors...
  13. CatPix

    Donkey Kong RVB

    From the album: CatPixtures

    Colecovision display is fine
  14. Welll, as I might've previously threatened, I took a few days to make an FPGA Channel F! (Channel FPGA if you will). After the Studio 2 FPGA I did earlier, I thought it'd be fun to try to simulate another underdog console. It took me about 4 days to get this one done, start to finish. Complete ground up everything. F8 CPU, 3853 SRAM interface, and video buffer. I cheated a little on the video buffer. The original buffer isn't terribly NTSC standards compliant. It uses 224 clocks per scanline instead of 228, and there's 264 scanlines instead of 262. Old 1970's TVs were fine with this, but capture cards and modern TVs probably don't take too kindly to that. I ended up with a 228 clock per scanline and 262 scanline frame to make it "NES like", which is good enough for most modern stuff. The audio circuitry was a direct clone, however, so pitch should be accurate. All games run perfectly as far as I can tell, and audio sounds like the various youtube videos I could find. This implemention runs on my standard FPGA board I made, along with all the other systems. Bottom of the post has dirty technical details for those that swing that way. Enough of that, on with the pictures! A good start- the G? selection screen. Built in game, hockey quadradooooooooooodle Alien Invaders Chess, requires extra RAM to function Maze (also needs extra ram, sitting on some IO ports. yep, got that) Pac-man homebrew. (title screen) In game. This game appears to be for a PAL Channel F maybe- the top and bottom get cut off a bit, but the game plays just fine. Technical details: Resource usage by entity: Cyclone EP3C25 FPGA F8 CPU: 723 LEs F3853 SRAM interface: 334 LEs framebuffer: 121 LEs generic SDRAM: 243 LEs This is approximately 6% of the FPGA's resources. (LE = logic element, the "currency" of FPGAs. my chip has 24624 LEs total) The F8 CPU was real "interesting" to simulate. I suspect the designers were under the influence when coming up with that particular bus state / 8 bit bus architecture. There's only a single level hardware stack for calls, no subtracts, jumps and calls corrupt the accumulator (loads PCH of new address into it for temp storage), and the slowness. dreadful slowness. The Channel F's frame buffer is slooow too. You can only write 1 new pixel every scanline, so a maximum of around 16Kpixels/second. This is why clearing the screen or updating too many things is dreadfully slow. Audio was straight forward but had a few wrinkles. If the sound is left on, it will go silent on its own after about 35ms. I noticed in some emulators the sound would continue long past the point it should've been silent because they did not implement this timeout. (It's done on the original hardware using a capacitor). I had a bunch of issues figuring out how the background select bits worked, and the 2102 SRAM on the Maze cart was connected. Some code disassembly helped with that. Overall, this system was extremely easy to simulate. The F8, while weird, ended up being pretty painless to implement and debug. Time taken was as follows: Tuseday - implement F8 CPU verilog, generate the bus state table. Wednesday - implement F3853 SRAM interface doodad (generates the address bus, and controls IO ports). Do some basic CPU testing Thursday - implement frame buffer. Do more CPU testing and debugging. CPU mostly debugged at this point Friday - no work Saturday - Fix final F8 bug (BR7 opcode). Implement XDC instruction- not listed on the datasheet. Demo cart 2 needs it. Add 2102 SRAM doodad. So about four days of work. I used signaltap (a built in "logic analyzer" in the Quartus 2 dev software) extensively to debug the system. Here's what that looks like for the curious. This is showing the various signals in the project. This is what happens at reset. The "Dbus" signal is the F8's data bus and the values on it, RST is reset, and ROMC is the 5 bit ROM control bus. "write" is the F8 write signal. These are a replica of the real chip's pin states. The capture starts when reset goes low to start operation (Yes my signals are all positive polarity even though the real chip's signals might not have been. standardization was used to keep things consistent).
  15. A composite modded Intellivision (PAL) console looks rough on old televisions let alone modern televisions but is the only option. I'd like to get a fully working French (Peritan) model RGB Intellision console, as long as it is a sensible/reasonable price. I don't care about the condition of the case at it will go into my Project Unity system, if it has the RGB cable that would be great but if not, let me know the pinout for RGB on the console and I can take it from there. I do need the console to be fully working of course. I'm in Hampshire, UK.
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