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Showing results for tags 'Video'.
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ok so i got my hands on a atari 2600 from my father about a week ago and wanted to start setting it up and playing games like adventure and stuff as i have tons of games that came with it. ive been looking at videos and trying to figure out what i need to buy but before i start spending money and wasting time i just figured to just ask. i saw alot of videos using a old vcr and was wondering if there was a way to have something that does the job but smaller as that would be ridiculos otherwise i also know i need a upscaler for 1080p and the rf to coax converter but is there anything out there that does it all without the wires everywhere or anything like that thats smaller
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Hi - Falcon 030 newbie here... My new to me Falcon has no video cable/adapter. What are the best options for video connectivity? I understand connection to a VGA monitor is the way to go. Are there any requirements for the monitor (like the 15Khz requirement for the Atari ST monitors)? Can I build my own VGA cable or does one require some logic board? TIA! -dan
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Clean Sweep MB Vectrex FACTORY SEALED New NOS Complete CIB with game Box Protector Start BID :US $44.44 Instant (BIN): US $200.00 Also open to Offers via AtariAge. . https://www.ebay.com/itm/256161023598 . #vectrex #factory #sealed #video #game -
Hi guys. I'm working on a remake of Let's Compare ( Donkey Kong ). The original video is out of date & I need to upgrade it. I'm looking for either the ROMS or good clean video footage of all 4 levels from the updated Intellivision version & The arcade version for the colecovision. The new video will be hi def & 60 fps. Any help would be greatly appreciated & I'll include any help in the credits. Thanks guys. Gaming History Source
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I recently decided to unbox and expand my Atari 8-bit collection. Lacking a suitable CRT television or monitor, I bought a BenQ GW2480 LCD monitor to use with a Tendak composite/s-video to HDMI converter I already had. I also moved an old SVHS VCR onto the workbench, to use with a 600XL and any computers without functional monitor ports, and I bought a pair of Atari monitor-to-RCA & S-Video cables from TBA. When I connected a 130XE to the video converter with a monitor cable using S-Video, I was disappointed to see a B&W READY prompt. I had the same result with composite and via the RF modulator and VCR, I tried the other monitor cable (which wouldn't affect RF anyway), and adjusting R38 did nothing. (As an aside, I checked the voltage off pin 17 of the GTIA, per Sams Computerfacts, and saw a range of 0V to 8V, suggesting R38 is fine.) The video converter displays color bars when no input signal is detected, I successfully displayed an old Android media streamer via composite, and the VCR's menu has a blue background over S-Video and composite, so there's no inherent problem with color between the converter's inputs and the monitor. I then checked an 800 (composite, from the monitor port, and RF) and 600XL (RF) with the same results: B&W only. I've had the 130XE for more than a decade, but the 800 and 600XL I just bought from separate sellers, and the 600XL had photos (purportedly) of the computer displaying in color on a television. It's possible all three computers now have problems with their color circuitry, but that is very unlikely, and suggests a compatibility issue with the HDMI video converter. I opened the Tendak converter and it's all surface mount components-- no potentiometers, dipswitches, or other configurables. I've ordered a new unit (different manufacturer), and will report back. Have any of you experienced this? -
Hello, I know this is a strange dual platform question. But I am thinking of adding a S-Video mod to both my 7800 and 800XL. From what I can see there is the UAV (800XL and 7800) and the Spectre AV (800XL) ones available. The idea in both cases is to run these through a Retrotink 5x. As I am not the best at soldering, I wonder if anyone can recommend someone who could mod the machines in Europe? Both are PAL devices, and I would prefer an EU based company/person in order to avoid customs issues. However, non-EU could be tolerated 🙂 It would be ideal if the same company/person could do both machines.
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A while back, I had the idea that it might be possible to install a UAV in a 5200 without needing to also drill the case (or expansion port cover) to install A/V jacks. The goals were as follows: No case drilling of any kind RF shields to remain in place Composite, S-Video, and audio outputs to be fully-functional RF to remain intact and functional as backup video output Achievable with off-the-shelf parts How to install a UAV won't be directly covered here; there are a ton of other resources out there that explain the process better than I could. This is currently a work in progress (the audio board and 4050 need to be installed), but so far it's going very well. Some photos: A rough idea of how the cable routing will work; more on that below. Wiring at the UAV. More on that below as well. And, finally, the A/V cabling coiled in the factory RF cable location: Regarding some of the points mentioned above: Cable routing: if keeping the RF shields (recommended), the upper shield will need to have a hole made in it somewhere to route the cabling through. I haven't decided yet if I'll run it through the side or the top, but that's a relatively minor consideration. UAV wiring: had I been thinking when the UAV was ordered, I would have gone for the kit and not the plug-in version. The green terminal block would have been substituted for right-angle header pins, and Dupont connectors used for A/V connections instead of the standard screw-downs. The jumper block that's on there now would also have been deleted, each location would have been manually jumpered, and the 4050 would have been installed into a socket running above the jumpers. A/V cabling: fits in the clip / channel in the case intended to carry the RF cable and loops without issue around the stock retainers. It's only a 6' cable, which is good from the standpoint of being able to do this, but extension cables may be required depending on how far back from the display you want to be. Other than that, it's going very well so far. Parts used are: UAV. Got that one from The Brewing Academy. Ditto the Internal Audio Board. 8-Bit Classics' Atari XL/XE 5-Pin DIN S-Video & Composite AV Cable. These can also be found elsewhere without the DIN-5 monitor connector used on the A8 machines. Jumper wires with Dupont connectors. I used these ones from Adafruit because they were what I had available.
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I'm thinking of firing up one of my old Atari computers but don't have an old monitor or TV. Are there converters out there that will convert the Atari video output to VGA? HDMI would be OK I guess, but VGA suits what I have better right now. As I recall, the Atari 800 had both composite video and RGB available. Plus a modulator to convert the composite video to TV channel 2. BTW, I have seen some boards on eBay and AliExpress that look promising, but the product descriptions are hard to follow. I'd like to be reasonably sure the gadget has a chance of working before I buy it. Regards, Nick "the SIO2PC guy"
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I've tried this app called Video Game Price Charts. Has anyone else tried this? Is it accurate?
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So I have been working on a Atari 2600 I have done the cap kit and the RF upgrade. I get a perfect image for a little bit then fads to dark. After have on a little longer the screen gets messed up. After that I loose the image all together but still have sound(sound is scratchy). I have pulled the chips to try and reset them. At this point I am at a lose. Does any one have any ideas what to try next? Thanks
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Have spent a long time waiting for an original Magnavox Odyssey video cable to come up for sale, or looking for other Magnavox consoles with the same weird proprietary AV connector with no luck. So I think the most practical solution is probably to solder an RF cable to the back of the board (seems like there's only two points to be soldered - ground plane and video signal) and connect it up to a composite demodulator/VCR. Wouldn't have been my first choice as I'd like to keep the console in stock condition, but I'm sure it'll be fine. Does anyone happen to know what the length of the original video cable was? Just want to make sure I leave enough slack when it goes into my setup, as the controller cables are quite short. Many thanks @Boojakascha @Mikebloke @Odysseus -
Definitely a work in progress, but I wanted to make a video to show where things stood with the beta version of the #ColecoAdam #FujiNet, including seeing the CP/M tools. Enjoy
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Morning all, poster from Ireland here, TLDR version: I am utterly clueless when it comes to AV hook-ups for the original Odyssey (and also when it comes power networking more generally). Would really appreciate if someone could review my Youtube/Wikipedia research, so I don't destroy a vintage console. The Console: I have an original Magnavox Odyssey (1972) that I picked up from another guy living in Ireland. I don't know much about Magnavox's distribution history (was the idea of PAL consoles even a thing back in 1972? ) but I'm assuming it's a standard NTSC unit that was imported, as there's a sticker on the bottom saying 120V/60Hz. The guy I bought it from just had it out on display, so there's no game power cord or antenna game switch with it, and I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are to power it on (without wearing out the battery compartment), and connecting it to a CRT. Power (Problem): In Ireland, we run the UK-style "Type G" electrical sockets, that output a standard supply of 230 volts AC (frequency 50Hz). I do have a step-down transformer but would prefer not to use it if possible, as it heats up very quickly. So I guess what I'm looking for is a) a modern power supply that can accept an input range of 100-240V, 50/60 HZ), b) that's well suited to the MA1 console, and c) that has those Irish/UK style pins. Like I said, I don't have one of the original power supplies that Magnavox manufactured for the Odyssey (I have been waiting for a few months for one to pop up on eBay with no joy...), but in an earlier thread linked below, @Clong80 notes that the specs on the original power supply are: INPUT 117 VAC 50/60HZ OUTPUT 9 volts 400ma 3.5mm mono headphone jack Tip positive for polarity Power (Solution?) So after a bit of online browsing, I found this website that sells modern power supply adapters for the Atari 2600. The specs on this unit are: 9V DC 1A Tip: 3.5mm jack (Centre tip positive) https://www.retrosales.com.au/collections/atari-power/products/accessory-power-supply-atari-2600-power-supply-adaptor-pack-9v So that will supply more current than the console needs; I know these numbers don't need to match exactly, but is the difference (9V, 1A vs 9V, 400ma) reasonable enough? I'd also need a standard travel adapter to convert the Australian plug to UK pin-style. Found this unit on Amazon ("This Adapter does not convert Voltage. Please make sure your device supports 220-240 Voltage.") Per Jakob Schuler on YouTube, it looks like the Magnavox Odyssey needs a 2.5mm tip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzXlJSa_VP4&t=6m22s), so I found this 3.5mm-to-2.5mm adapter on Amazon AV Hookup: I don't have one of the original antenna game switches with the hanging hooks, but my CRT doesn't accept NTSC RF anyway, so I don't think that would be the best option for me. However, it will accept NTSC through the composite ports. And I have an NTSC RF-to-composite conversion box, which works great either on its own or with composite switches. I've had no luck finding an original MA1 video cable like this one https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2016/post-32949-0-81329000-1466475134.jpg On the TV end, the little RF adapters are obviously no problem to get from Amazon, but I understand that the other end which connects to the console is proprietary? (I'm not 100% sure about this). End of an entirely-too-long post Would be super grateful if anyone could advise me on 1) whether I've made any huge screw-ups in my choice of power accessories, and 2) how to find a video cable that will connect to the console Many thanks if you stuck through to the end of this post
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Cross-posting the new 2021 production Vectrex Mail Plane and Light Pen release announcement by Sean Kelly. "NOW AVAILABLE - MAIL PLANE! I've been working on this project for several months and finally debuted it at Midwest Gaming Classic in Milwaukee this past weekend. Mail Plane is available in two different packages - Standard and Deluxe. The Standard Edition comes complete with a box, insert and full instruction manual. The Deluxe Edition comes complete with a box, insert, full instruction manual, a perfect replica of the original Light Pen, a replica Light Pen instruction sheet and a limited edition Mail Plane pilot's wings pin. Everything in the Deluxe Edition fits nicely back into the standard-sized Mail Plane box. The Light Pen was made from a custom mold and is the exact size and shape as the original. I also had a cable molded to the exact specifications of the GCE Light Pen cable. The pen housing is hot stamped with the Vectrex and Light Pen logos in silver ink. I intentionally omitted the "TM" after the Vectrex logo as a way of differentiating this pen from the original. Honestly, other than that is near impossible to tell the difference. In addition to the two boxed versions, I also have loose cartridges of Mail Plane and loose Light Pens available. Everything can be found on my website at http://www.vectrexmulti.com/! "
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I am trying to test a stock NTSC 600XL to see if it works. It does not have a monitor port. I don't have a TV with an antenna hookup on it. Any ideas as to how I can test this?
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Got a Unicron from ebay. Initially I could not get any video upon power up. After testing the power supply, cables, and the voltage regulator successfully, I decided to fiddle with the pot on the RF modulator with my hex screwdriver. It started to turn and I did get some video but now it broke and released this graphite-looking pieces. I don't think it turns anymore. What is the most logical course of action here? Is there an easy fix for this pot? Or do I go with composite mod knowing that the machine is working? This is the only reference I could find online regarding modding a unicorn. https://theokoulis.com/index.php/2018/09/27/the-unicorn/ Ps. I was hoping it landed on a different frequency around channels 2 and 3 but reprogramming TV did not work.
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80 column text on the Atari 8bit, with out using the XEP80 or some modified video card, is created by using GRAPHICS 8 and a 4 character wide font. It works fairly well on an unmodified Atari IF you have a a B&W TV or, even better, a monochrome monitor. A color TV, LED TV/monitor or even some composite monitors, no so good (See 1st picture). The screen is created by a BASIC program from ANTIC called Easy80 (attached). As you can see the font is only sorta readable on my color LCD monitor. But, while installing my new UAV chip in my 600XL I once forgot to hook up the color line and the video was just B&W. This got me thinking. What would the screen look like if I disconnected that line and then ran the Easy80. (picture below). That is really clear. Here is a picture in the XL of the line I disconnected. The line is supposed to be connected to the screw connector at the top to supply the color. IDEA! put a switch on the back of the computer to turn off that line on when I want sharp B&W or 80 column. Before I do it is there any reason I shouldn't do that? Is there something I'm missing that might hurt or damage my XL when the switch is off. what ya'll think? disclaimer: I have my UAV set up for composite only. If you have setup for S-Video with separate chroma , should work the same but haven't tested it. easy80basic.atr
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Hi! So my atari's video output is all garbage, or sometimes none at all. I recapped the sysem and did a console5 refresh kit and no difference. Tried different rf cables and used a known working psu. Any idea guys? Maybe the Tia chip or maybe something simple? Thanks!!
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I'm fairly new to the ST, but I picked up 3 STs, in a lot, recently. I got a 520stfm, a 520stm, and a 520st. I didn't get any monitors, or video cables, with them, though. Given that situation, the first thing that I did was to make up a DIN-13 to composite video + audio cable. The quality of output I got from that was acceptable (but not great) at low res, and terrible at medium res. Looking to improve my output, I bought a an NEW v2.0 Atari ST DIN13 to VGA Adaptor Low-Medium/High Switchable with Audio Out and, after reading that my Extron RGB-HDMI 300a was capable of going beyond the spec of 30 kHz, I tried it out. I think that the results speak for themselves. You can see some jailbars, particularly in high res, but if I take a bit of time to adjust the phase, those should go away. These images are the defaults, with zero tuning. - Alex
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i saw this video on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yKwJJw6Abs and i thought, i can totally do that on the TI.. so.. 10 D$="FF" :: FOR D=65 TO 65+8 :: D$="00"&D$ :: CALL CHAR(D,D$) :: NEXT D :: FOR B=1 TO 10 :: PRINT "F";"E";"D";"C";"B";"A";"A";"B";"C";"D";"E";"F";"G"; :: B=1 :: NEXT B i had to print each character individually to get the required screen movement.. Here's xbasic, and compiled.. WAVE is normal extended basic, -X is compiled but loads in extended basic, and -E is EA5 load. looks pretty slick compiled some small screen glitches likely because I'm running classic99 in Wine on a linux pc.. WAVE-X WAVE-E WAVE
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On the NTSC Atari 600XL the only video output is RF and the picture quality is really not very good, at all, not in the least, bad. So I thought maybe, if I want to use this 600XL for anything more than a prop, I might want to replace the video with something better. After looking around I chose the UAV by https://thebrewingacademy.com/ due to it’s simplistically and it’s cheap at only $30. Plus it has one of the best pictures I have ever seen for a composite output. Installation: (My work area) NOTE: This information covers the installation of the UAV composite and the way I installed it for NTSC 600XL ONLY. There are other ways to install the device but this is the way I choose. I am not responsible for any problems you may have following these instructions. I tried my best to make as clear as possible. So there. The UAV comes several ways. I chose the pre-built drop in as it’s the simplest. The package comes with all you need to drop in install (except what’s needed for sound). FYI: here is the link to the manual: http://www.thebrewingacademy.net/UAV_manuals.zip The manual covers ALL the various machines that the UAV can be installed in giving not too much space for any one type. Read over the manual but don’t expect a step by step install. Now my installation. Of course the first thing I did was open up the computer (seen in picture above). The blue wiring is the 64k upgrade I previously did. The UAV is a little board that plugs into the slot of one of the chips you remove. Then you add some wires and 3 solder points (if install like I did). Here is the board. I put tape over the top and bottom because there isn’t much clearance in the 600Xl and didn’t want to chance a short. Top view. Bottom view. Notice an extension on the bottom pins. This is so that the chip will clear a line of resistors just in front of the chip. I found the extension to be a bit unstable so later I took it off and the board set just fine. Remove the chip U19 as this is where the board will be plugged in. The UART socket is in the black box. Notice I have put electrical tape around the resistors in front of the plug. I found that playing around with placement of the board these resistors tended to want to push against each other and short. The tape kept that from happening. Next to the UART socket I have a green wire soldered to a resistor. This wire will be attached to the UAV board later and supplies the color signal. This is the board plugged into the socket. You will be attaching wires to that green header in a bit. Notice the jumpers I had tape on in a previous picture. Refer to the manual on the placement of those jumpers for the 600XL. The board does not come with the jumpers set for the 600XL so you will have the change them. Little trivia, to the left you will see places for several missing components. This is the missing composite circuitry NOT found in the NTSC version of the 600XL. For my installation I removed the RF module and the channel selector switch. Location is next to where the channel switch was. This is where I take the sound off of. I soldered in two pins to plug the sound cables into for easy removal. Pin on left is ground. OK, I know I’m going to get a lot of gruff for this but I didn’t solder in a 5 pin plug for this install. Reasons, I plan to only use the composite so most of the other pins would not have been used since I had no way of utilizing the S-Video capabilities of splitting the Luma and Chroma. Also I already had a dual RCA plug. Anyway, here is where you plug the wires into the board and the sound. I cut holes for the RCA plugs and mounted the board on the back of the 600XL where the RF plug was. AND IT WORKS. The finished product. That’s it. That’s all there is to installing the UAV the way I did it. Hope this helps. Good luck.
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Hi; So I hauled out my 8-bit collection (that has been modded for various reasons back when I used it heavily back in the '90s). I have forgotten soooo much! This 8-bit stuff got me through a dissertation, online database searching and early attempts at running a profession-related BBS before the Internet was ubiquitous. Current problem. I'm trying to efficiently figure out what to do to resurrect a 130XE that currently only boots to a blank green screen. I noted that a different computer (Also Atari 8-bit) booted to green screen when the ribbon cable for the keyboard was badly inserted (a corner was folded over itself...straightening that out allowed it to boot correctly, but that was not the problem with the unit at hand). First question: I have a pretty horrid/beat up 65XE that I was thinking I might scavenge for parts/chips, BUT other than memory are the 65XE chips the same as the 130XE? Next question: Is there a step-by-step logical process for teasing out the most efficient process for diagnosing/repairing the green screen issue? Thanks Stuff I have on hand... CSS Black Box with Floppy Board (Bob Puff was my main go-to guy back in the day!) SpartaDOS X with R-time-8 cartridge 130XE with 320 RAM upgrade/Multiplexer OS (in good working order) 130XE with a ROM board/switch that can switch/boot between 3 different chips (this is the machine with the problem) 800XL standard/good working order 65XE with horrid case and keyboard with many dead keys (I might be brave/foolhardy enough to try and desolder this for parts). 1050 disk drive XF551 disk drives (2) Hard drive with various Sparta/MyDOS boot partitions and utilities. Various game cartridges and 8-bit software mostly on 5.25 disks.
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Hi. I recently bought an Atari Jaguar of eBay. It is PAL. It seems to power on and shows a green light. But when I hook it up to the TV, I see a distorted image (what you see when you don’t insert an Atari 2600 cartridge properly) I’ve been told by someone that the console is working as it should and the image I see is caused by the PAL system being used in an NTSC country. What do you think? By the way, I am using the AV signal. Is there something I need to buy to get it working? Thank you!
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Hey everyone. Had a quick question for those of you familiar with Hardware because I really am not. i have a video issue with only certain homebrews and hacks. Original release 2600 games play fine, all 85 or so i own. It doesn't happen every time with the effected games, and when it does happen usually taking the game out and reinserting it once or up to 3 times will make the issue go away. could this be a power issue? Capacitors or something inside the system failing? Or simply just RF interference of some kind? I'm using a light sixer on a CRT through RF. I'll post a picture of one of the affected games and then a couple of pictures of regular games playing fine. thanks alot everyone.
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Hello everyone. I am having some difficulty with an Atari 7800 that I picked up that I hope, with the help of this community, we can figure out. The unit didn't have a power supply so I picked up a new switcher from best and it checks out fine and powers up the unit. The problem that I am having is the picture has a lot of static, you can barely make out the image but it has color and responds to control input. The second problem is the sound which is nothing but static, no game sounds what so ever. I did clean out the cartridge receiver on the board with 91% alcohol and a cloth over a credit card. I'm connected through an rf coax adapter using an rf cable. I've tried different cables and adapters, tried different cleaned 2600 games since I don't have any 7800 games yet, switching through channels on both the console and the tv, re-scanning channels on the tv with a game running on the console, running through a vcr to tv using the composite and then the coaxial output of the vcr, and lastly using an old tube tv. The ohm resistance on the rf output is 1 with a the meter set at 200 while my 2600 has an ohm reading of 100 with the same setting. I use to get a reading at .18 with it set above 2k but now it's just reading 1. Best electronics says it sounds like a motherboard issue and the av mod likely wouldn't make a difference. I'll try to upload an image of both sides of the board.
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