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Maze Craze: A Game of Cops and Robbers (Atari VCS, 1980) Someone in the 70s realized that there was fun to be found by using a computer to generate random mazes with a simple algorithm and allowing people to race through it. The first maze game that I can remember appearing on a home console was for the Fairchild Video Entertainment System (VES) and was cart #10 Maze, Cat and Mouse (1977). I don't know if this is the last "maze game" or not because I can't see into the future. (If I could, I'd have warned people about 80s hair.) This maze game decides to have a theme, and that theme is not merely "racing your buddy through a maze". Instead, it's a complex, textured and many-layered game which can be fraught with societal implications even to this day. It's not a game of cat and mouse! It's a game of Cops and Robbers! Which is totally different because if a mouse fights back, the cat is still gonna win. If a robber fights back, the outcome can be less certain. So, I could totally wax on that, but let's talk about the game instead. The cart contains 16 game variations with each variation further able to be varied by setting increasing parts or the entire maze "invisible". More on the invisibility aspect later. Players each have their little "cops" on screen, starting at the same point on the left side of the maze. The goal is to get through the maze to the exit all the way over on the right side of the maze. Yes, this sounds just like the other "maze" games so far, but wait...there's more!* *the phrase "but wait...there's more!" is over-used and a bit hokey and the creator of this blog would like to apologize profusely for its use. The game variations let you put "Robbers" in the maze. Two, three or five, depending on your selection. The Robbers start at the other end of the maze and randomly run through it. If you're playing the A difficulty game, your Cop moves just as fast as the Robbers. If you're on the B difficulty game, they move faster than the robbers. Players must maneuver through the maze, racing towards the exit, while avoiding the Robbers. This involves a lot of backtracking while trying to dodge the Robbers. How do you dodge the Robbers in what is essentially a single lane maze? You have to hope they take a turn down a blind alley giving you a chance to sneak by. I'm not going to lie, this is fun and depending on your emotional investment in the game, it can be intense (in a fun way). I will say that it's much more fun to play all of these with a partner but it's not necessary. You can easily play all of the games with just you leaving your Cop partner sitting alone at the starting spot. The 16 games the following variants with the number of Robbers or, in some instances, the visibility of the maze. Robbers - This is a race to the end of the maze, but Robbers come after you from the right side and will "take you out of the game" if you know what I'm sayin'. It's interesting because your little Cop doesn't disappear, it just becomes inert and doesn't move. We like to play that the dead Cop isn't really dead (yet) but yelling out to his buddy, "You gotta make it out, Louie! You gotta tell my family I died heroic and stuff...". (To keep things simple we pretended both Cops were named Louie.) Blockade - There's a variant that does let you play a cool trick on your opponent. By pressing the button you can drop an illusory wall to make it look like the bit of the maze you just passed through is actually a dead end. Yes, your opponent can just pass through this pretend wall, but it's a cool trick and if they weren't paying attention to you, they can fall for it. Capture - Another variant has the Cops doing what cops do in a game of cops and robbers, they can catch the robbers. Your goal is to get to each of the robbers and touch them before your opponent does. First to get all of them wins. There's no reason to not enjoy this game for a little while if you've ever felt some degree of satisfaction after getting through a maze. I fully intend to make an actual game play video of some of the more dramatic moments and linking y'all to it. I just didn't want to put off writing a new entry while I was still feeling the urge to write an entry. I wanted to talk about the "invisible" maze options. In most of the variants, if you choose to activate the invisibility option, the "invisible" parts of the maze will not be invisible. You will see your partner and the Robbers making their way along the invisible parts, and if you have a good head for mazes you can use their mistakes to your advantage. It's also possible to have an "auto peek" game or a player peek game. This allows you to see the invisible part of the maze for a brief moment. The problem is that your opponent will also see it. (( Martin Brundle-Fly would have been good at this. ))* (( Yes, by including that gif I AM admitting that I know things about the distant year of 1989, but I couldn't resist. )) (( From now on, if I decide to type something "out of character" for whatever year I'm currently deluding myself into believing I'm in, I'll put those anachronistic comments in double parenthesis. )) Scouts - Also in "invisible maze" you can sometimes have "Scouts". Scouts are your friends who run ahead of you briefly and show you how the maze runs. It's still invisible, but it probably keeps you from breaking your joystick slamming your Cop into an invisible wall because the Scouts give you some idea of where you can go. There, a quick and dirty entry. I'm likely going to add to it with a gameplay video as well as a discussion of a maze generating algorithm. EDIT Still no gameplay video my attention span might not last long enough to do one. I went ahead and did a cringe-worthy pair of videos talking about the maze generating algorithm that I can only hypothesize is used in Maze Craze. I'm a little annoyed at both Quicktime (which seems to want to crop any clip you add to the end of another, instead of just fitting it into the frame... if anyone knows a setting I'm missing, please let me know.) and YouTube, which also seems to decide to crop things. Well, I shouldn't be surprised that there is a learning curve and that freestuff has its limitations. The links to these videos are: Part 1: http://youtu.be/WJBIxAHV28k (EDIT: I'm pretty sure neither of these work anymore.) Part 2: http://youtu.be/XdoPmLaxf8A As always, constructive and sincere criticism is welcome, particularly with regard to any facts that I just blatantly seem to make up on the fly. My next entry should be Activision's Boxing.

I recently got an atari 2600 Jr console from eBay the Console is in great conditions and the switches and all of the other parts of the console work flawlessly but when i put in the game spider fighter when the game boot sup and comes on the screen where you would see the copyright date and the publisher/developer (in this case Activision) the letters in Copyright are not being displayed correctly. as you can see from the pictures below. I was just wondering if anyone here has had the same problem and if It is the console or one of the switches or a RIOT chip problem. But like I said all of the other games work just fine like they do on all of the other 2600 consoles that I own except spider fighter. Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks

Commodore Business Machines released a PET that could increase the screen refresh rate via an undocumented register address. On later hardware models this undocumented feature was revised and changing the address with the same software could damage the PET and cause a chip to overheat. In this demo video of the Game Loader with the debugger attached (an Atari 2600 emulator for the Commodore 64) there are sparkles on the real hardware like were seen on the CBM PET where the refresh rate could be increased: Technical Details on the debugger and the freezing bug: The debugger is attached and throwing SYMBOLS from a shell in the upper left and there is an extra 2% time loop reserved if things get tight. I don't think the overhead from the debugger is causing the pause, because it's intermittent. Corruption in the Zero Page The Commodore has a lot of activity marshalling the Kernel and there is corruption of data on the zero page. I keep chasing these programs to either remove their access to the zero page or coordinate which programs should participating. Kernel sub programs with a legitimate purpose, get to keep their registers in low RAM and I have moved several Shadow registers and fast RAM variables around in the zero page to accommodate those. Some are very tricky and corrupt a value temporarily and then pull it back out of the stack and put it back; I think that's what's causing the freeze when it happens, it's not always the same spot very difficult to track down. I added a debugger to the emu to assist in finding them and reviewing the maps which are very helpful. Here's the Atari 2600 program code the Game Loader emulator is running, you can see the Shadow registers are already implemented, some partially. Soft collision detection with the sprites and the tile playfield is working in the vid, but not the hardware collision because I have not wrapped the bare metal API for those yet though there is a stub for it already present in the sub Framework so that no errors on compile will happen. Mapping the switches on the console The Joysticks are already mapped and SWCHB is getting mapped to the function keys on the right side of the Commodore with perhaps shift-lock for the BW/color toggle. Thoughts and ideas welcome on this interesting emu! More details on the architecture are here I plan to release the Game Loader emu/game transformer after more thorough testing to ensure there is no chance of damaging a C64 by frying a chip like with the PET by pushing the VIC-II to emulate a 1 Mhz system on 1 Mhz platforms.

Take a rare look at our favorite vintage Atari 2600 boxes and cover art with The Immortal John Hancock & Metal Jesus Rocks. GAMES SHOWN: Marauder Demon Attack Tanks but no Tanks Threshold Pitfall! (signed by David Crane) Mega Force Missile Command Radar Lock Vanguard Return of the Jedi: Death Star Battle Gyruss Space Invaders Tac/Scan Dark Chambers I realize on this particular forum, the boxes may not be unusual...but for most casual collectors...they rarely see some of these boxes. What did you guys think of the video?

I was just wondering if Dark mage is worth getting for someone who likes text adventures and atari 2600

The Game Modem PlusCart exclusive Fluid City B Side Throttle Control is an interactive Atari 2600 game that runs at up to 60 FPS of full screen animation. Game Loader the Atari 2600 Emulator for the Commodore 64 I am working on is running the game at full speed and my camera cannot keep up with the CRT Television image at 60 FPS of animation: This is true Atari 2600 emulation on the C64 I haven't changed any code in the game from the link above, Game Loader dynamically recompiles the source to add Commodore Graphics to Atari 2600 games and loads them on the C64 as standalone binary. VICE jammed for some reason but not the real hardware this time, sometimes it's the other way around.

Hi everyone! I am attempting to play an Atari 2600 on a modern-day television. Specifically, on the LG - 77" Class CX Series OLED 4K UHD Smart webOS TV. Its specs are a little different than your average digital TV, I believe. At least different enough to not be compatible with the recommendations I see for using an upscaler. Because it's not a 60hz TV; it's 120hz. And apparently that causes...interface problems with upscalers most ppl are using. So that's fun, right? LOL.... There is also some question as to HDMI being used, tho I am not entirely clear on the reasons associated with that. This model encompasses both HDMI 2.0 as well as HDMI 2.1 (thank goodness)....which other LG OLED models do not. Apparently HDMI 2.0 is getting "phased out"....but this model, thankfully, still allows its use! Something else of note....is the "Resolution" with this model. It's listed at 2160p (not 1080p)......is that unusual? I expected it to be 1080p. And since that is double what other models I've seen list, how does that impact use of an upscaler, or even use of an Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC) in this process of getting the Atari 2600 to play (well) on this model of TV? Here are the full specs of the TV in question, the one that will be used to play the Atari 2600 on. From the BestBuy website: ___________________________________ Specifications Key Specs Display Type OLED Resolution 4K (2160p) Screen Size Class 77 inches High Dynamic Range (HDR) Yes High Dynamic Range Format Dolby Vision, HDR 10, Hybrid Log-Gamma (HLG) Refresh Rate 120Hz Specific Manufacturer Technologies HDR Dynamic, Tone Mapping Pro, Advanced Contrast Enhancer, Face Enhancing, Ultra Luminance Pro, Billion Rich Colors, True Color Accuracy Pro Smart Platform webOS Featured Streaming Services Apple TV+, Paramount+, Crackle, Disney+, Fandango, Google Play Movies & TV, Hulu, Netflix, Pandora, Peacock, Prime Video, Redbox, SHOWTIME, SIRIUS, STARZ, Sling TV, Spotify, Twitch, Vudu, YouTube, YouTube TV, iHeartRadio Number of HDMI Inputs (Total) 4 Works With Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant Voice Assistant Built-in Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant General Product Name 77" Class CX Series OLED 4K UHD Smart webOS TV Brand LG Model Number OLED77CXPUA Series CX Series Model Year 2020 Color Silver Color Category Silver Dimensions Product Height With Stand 40.3 inches Product Width 67.8 inches Product Depth With Stand 10.6 inches Product Height Without Stand 39.1 inches Product Depth Without Stand 2.2 inches Product Weight With Stand 79.1 pounds Product Weight Without Stand 58.9 pounds Adjustable Stand Width No Box Dimensions Height 44.5 inches Width 74.6 inches Depth 11.2 inches Display Display Type OLED Resolution 4K (2160p) Screen Size 76.7 inches Screen Size Class 77 inches High Dynamic Range (HDR) Yes High Dynamic Range Format Dolby Vision, HDR 10, Hybrid Log-Gamma (HLG) Picture Quality Enhancement Technology Cinema HDR Curved Screen No Refresh Rate 120Hz Closed Captioning Yes Language(s) Displayed English, French, Spanish 3D Technology No Features Remote Control Type Magic Specific Manufacturer Technologies HDR Dynamic, Tone Mapping Pro, Advanced Contrast Enhancer, Face Enhancing, Ultra Luminance Pro, Billion Rich Colors, True Color Accuracy Pro Smart Capable Yes Smart Platform webOS Featured Streaming Services Apple TV+, Paramount+, Crackle, Disney+, Fandango, Google Play Movies & TV, Hulu, Netflix, Pandora, Peacock, Prime Video, Redbox, SHOWTIME, SIRIUS, STARZ, Sling TV, Spotify, Twitch, Vudu, YouTube, YouTube TV, iHeartRadio Screen Mirroring Yes Screen Mirroring Technology Miracast Indoor Or Outdoor Use Indoor Text-To-Speech Yes Video Description Yes V-Chip No TV Tuner Digital Connectivity Number of HDMI Inputs (Total) 4 Number of HDMI 2.1 Inputs 1 Number of HDMI 2.0 Inputs 3 HDMI Audio Return Channel (ARC) Yes Number Of USB Port(s) (Total) 3 Number of USB 2.0 Ports 3 Ethernet Port(s) Yes RF Antenna Input Yes Bluetooth Enabled Yes Bluetooth Version 5.0 Network Compatibility Built-in Wi-Fi, Ethernet Number of RS-232 Inputs 1 Headphone Jack Yes Number of Digital Optical Audio Outputs 1 Number of Component Video Inputs 0 Number of Composite Video Inputs 1 Number of DVI Inputs 0 Compatibility VESA Wall Mount Standard 400mm x 200mm Works With Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant Voice Assistant Built-in Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant Audio Built-In Speakers Yes Built-in Speaker Type Front firing Surround Sound Supported Dolby Atmos, OLED Surround Speaker Output 40 watts Power ENERGY STAR Certified No EPEAT Qualified No Estimated Annual Operating Cost 38 United States dollars Estimated Annual Electricity Use 313 kilowatt hours Rechargeable Battery (Remote Control) No Number Of Batteries Required (Remote Control) 2 Number of Batteries Included (Remote Control) 2 Included Stand Included Yes Cable(s) Included AC power Warranty Manufacturer's Warranty - Parts 1 Year Manufacturer's Warranty - Labor 1 Year Other UPC 719192637177 ___________________________________ Thoughts on what type of upscaler (if any) or OSSC (if any)......to use to get this done? Really need to play the Atari 2600 on this TV!! Man I hope there is a solution to be found. I'm open to any and all suggestions!!! Please let me know what should be used; the things to get and use, etc....even if they are not OSSC or an upscaler. I just want to know how to play Atari again, on a modern TV; how that gets done though eludes me. Pls forgive the n00bishness. <3 Thanks in advance for any and all help! With appreciation, froggerchamp ---

I am looking to get another set or two of the keyboard controllers. Also, I will be glad to take other controllers (paddles, video touch) off your hands. Let me know so we can discuss prices. Thank you!!

Hello to all , Impressed about nice production on Atari 2600 and 7800 range . My very first console , and keep it in heart . I have a request , my first playing game was Missile Command on 2600 , and I look for the original SFX , for make a portage to an another computer , for my pleasure and nostalgia. I am looking for the SFX in possible use format for me : .ASC ,.PT1, .PT2 , .PT3 (protracker range) , .STP, .SQT, .FTC , .PSM Only SFX for this game I found were only in MP3 .... thanks in advance for your returns and help !!! greetings

Here is an issue that I've seen before in one form or another and I thought I would talk about it here while working on a earlier era 2600 heavy sixer last night. The system was sent in for refurbishment. In this case that is all the original electrolytic capacitors being replaced out, new DC power jack, new voltage regulator etc. But a problem was reported and confirmed during testing of the console. What was the issue? In this case it was an issue with the player 2 controls. Specifically, player 2's fire button was always registering as being pressed. Easiest game to demonstrate this was Air-Sea Battle as when you reset the game to start, player 2 is constantly shooting the entire time even without a controller plugged in. Part of the refurbishment process is changing some components near the joystick port per an Atari service bulletin from back in the day for ESD protection. It is the last part in regards to the ESD protection that needs focus, because it was found that static electricity from players hands when inserting and unplugging the joysticks, would cause static discharge to the joystick pins. Luckily for most this is pretty harmless but one component in particular on the heavy sixers is very sensitive to this and prompted Atari to create the service bulletin to address it. The specific component to be checked is labeled as A203 on the main board. While the original IC chip has an Atari PN labeled on it, the chip is a bog standard 4050 IC that was common on the 8-bit line, 5200, some 2600s and lots of other devices. So common in fact, that the 4050s are still made today. However, on the heavy sixers, the trigger lines (Fire button) goes through the 4050 chip and in turn relayed back to the TIA. The most basic way it works is that +5v is always present on pin 6 of the joystick port which is the trigger line for each controller. When you press the fire button, you ground this connection causing the +5 to drop to near 0. This is what is referred to as going from Hi to Lo and is how the system knows when controller inputs are being used. In the case of this 2600, pin 6 from joystick port 2 was not showing any voltage from it and as a result, this was being interpreted by the logic in the system as if the fire button was already being pressed down. The basic troubleshoot process here is to verify the traces from pin 6 back to pin 7 on the 4050 IC chip and ensure there are no broken traces. If that checks out, then the culprit is down to two component at that point being The 4050 IC or the TIA itself. Anyway, per the service manual flow charts and because I found no issues with the traces on the board, I removed the original 4050 IC chip, installed a socket and new 4050. Let it burn in test for several hours last night and verified that player 2 is now behaving properly and not so short tempered. So in this case it was an easy fix but also a warning on why ESD was and still is an issue to this day. In this case, an errant spark from someones hand in the past damaged something internally in the 4050 IC causing it to no longer function properly in regards to the player 2 fire button. Here is the replaced 4050 and socket. Although this 4050 in the pic did have to swapped out with a new Ti branded one as this one would cause graphical issues once the system was warmed up. Here is the soldering on the bottom where the socket was installed. Finally here is one of the capacitor/diode combos that the service bulletin has you install to help with ESD from the controller ports. This is the one installed at C237 for port 2. There is another combo like this installed at C236 for port 1 on the opposite side of the board. View the full article

ZX-81 pseudo hi-res graphics mode for SuperCharger BASIC I found an interesting way to do ZX-81 pseudo hi-res graphics in SuperCharger Disk BASIC writing this prototype for the 2022 BASIC programming contest! Here's the code and two versions of the Alpha build for Jupiter SS, one using pseudo hi-res and one using regular bitmapping: Jupiter_SS_Firestorm_GAMMA.bin BASIC10Liner2022Jupiter_Pseudo_Hi_Res_GAMMA.txt Added algorithmic chiptunes and parallax scrolling, ready for the BASIC contest! Manual and program design: Jupiter_SS_Firestorm_GAMMA_Instructions_and_program_design_20220320.txt Jupiter SS prior development builds: Jupiter_SS_Firestorm_BETA.bin Jupiter_SS_Alpha.bin Jupiter_psuedo_hires.bin Description: The BASIC listing uses either the visual sprite graphics or BASIC data statements, since the contest only allows line numbers and no visual ASCII art designers I used data statements from classic BASIC. A data statement with a series like $D5,$AE,$7C takes four bytes per byte and the BASIC 10 liner contest allows only 10 lines of 120 characters for the entire game. The pseudo hi-res mode allows a lot of data to be fit but is even more limiting with many bit patterns getting up converted to $FF by DASM behind the scenes limiting the bit patterns available to BASIC. But the ZX-81 pseudo hi-res technique works with the remainder! About pseudo hi-res: Clive Sinclair created an incredible learning machine with technology waiting to be explored with a unique design like the Atari 2600; pseudo-hires mode discovered on an unmodified ZX81 imparts a hand drawn texture look that adds more to this graphics mode. I had expected only the hilighted pattern substitution shown in the screenshot. There are many more occurring but there is still plenty of potential using the available patterns and substitutions for the missing ones, there is no other pattern substitution in the Alpha build yet so the pseudo hi-res sprite is looking like a Hammerhead with the FF's (11111111) showing where the substitution patterns are needed.

First, I know there are other threads about issues after doing a composite mod, but I haven't seen the issue I'm having. The composite mod I did was the one from tfw8bit. I followed the instructions for NTSC and it was done on a 4 switch model. I've included a picture of the issue I'm seeing. And before I did the mod it wasn't there. I've replaced the 2200uf capacitor and went back and checked all my solder joints. I'm at a loss as to where to look next. Any help would be appreciated.

The World's Smallest Functioning Atari 2600 Console! A review of the world's smallest functioning Atari 2600. What are your guys opinions on this little thing?

Selling a Tele-games Atari 2600 6 switch sold via Sears model 637.9943. System is in great condition and comes with AC adapter and RadioShack TV antenna switch. Two paddles and joysticks as well. Games included (some with very good condition instruction manuals - see pictures) basketball - manual bowling Breakaway IV - manual Centipede Circus Atari - manual Homerun (missing small label) Football Frogger - manual Outlaw (missing small label) - manual Pac-Man- manual Pitfall Pokerplus (4 Telegames yellow label) - manual Space Invaders - manual Super Breakout - manual Star Raiders - manual Target Fun - manual

Today I met... Yorgle Grundle Rhindle ... and they kicked my BUTT! but I did win once!

Greetings all... I'm currently auctioning a rare Atari 2600 cartridge from my collection: the unknown-before-2006 Atari Inc. picture label variant of Flag Capture. It's tested, working, and is NTSC. The auction is slated to end this Sunday at 4:30 PM Eastern. https://www.ebay.com/itm/304346745387 It's my educated guess that somewhere between five and seven of these are currently known to exist. This is the first time one has been put up for auction. The closest comparison is probably the Sears picture label Superman; that title is more well-known, but I don't think it's quite at the same level of rarity as this one. Thanks for having a look.

Big fish eat little fish!

A long time ago in a thread not all that far, far away I had a pretty sizable collection of games for a whole bunch of different systems, but due to a variety of life circumstances I ended up parting ways with all my collections over the past 3 years or so (you can find the full and rather lengthy story behind all that here if you're curious) and transitioned to playing all my games off EverDrives and optical drive replacement devices instead of original physical media. I've still got a real soft spot for Atari cartridges though, especially since the 2600 was the very first console I ever played growing up, and seeing as how the Atari 2600 is one of the very few systems that is still relatively affordable to collect for outside of a handful of pricier games I'd like (Pitfall II, H.E.R.O., Montezuma's Revenge, etc.) I've decided to start casually rebuilding my Atari 2600 collection to scratch that collecting itch and hopefully pick up some of the games that I wanted but never got back when I used to have my old collection while I'm at it! I won't be collecting for any other systems, just the Atari 2600, and I'm only going to be collecting games that I know I'll enjoy playing as well as the instruction manuals for them when I can find 'em affordably. I'm only buying cartridges with really nice condition labels (no rips, tears, deep scratches, or significant wear on the label edges but a bit of Actiplaque is alright) so they'll be enjoyable to both look at and play, and it should be fun watching watching the collection grow. My collecting budget is pretty meager, since I'm limiting myself to $60 a month on account of other hobbies I need to save funds for, but here's the games and manuals I have so far. As far as hardware goes, I've got a Light Sixer system with joysticks from an Atari Flashback 5 (the wired Flashback joysticks are definitely my favorite classic CX-40 style controllers) as well as some Best Electronics gold paddle controllers, Best Electronics light gun, a CX-80 Trak-Ball, and a QuickJoy foot pedal for those odd games like Stargate and Spy Hunter that require two controllers to be used at once. The foot pedal is super nice for those kind of games! Looking to the future I'm pretty happy with my hardware selection, though a few more joysticks and a spare Atari 2600 system or two certainly wouldn't hurt to have. A composite modded system to run through a RetroTINK for use on my modern TV would be nice, but I'm mainly going to be focusing on collecting games and manuals on a $60 a month budget. I'm all tapped out for December on account of a couple homebrew pickups currently on the way from the AtariAge store, but starting in January I'll be looking to acquire lots of common games to build my new collection! You can find my current wants list in the spoiler tag below

Hey guys, I’m looking for the following titles for the Atari 2600: -Any Xante cartridge -Coke wins/Pepsi invaders cart -Activision demo/sample carts -Xonox Single Enders (Preferably Complete) Please PM me if you have any of them and would be willing to sell (If solely looking to sell, let me know your price) or trade (Let me know what Atari 2600 games you’re looking for. I might have them for trade). Thank you!

Hi, This is a cool project of controlling Atari 2600 Missile command using your hands and fingers as motion controls The hands “creates” a virtual joystick on air that can impact the movement and the shooting of the player. The link for the video is : https://youtu.be/6-gNiK2leZ8 The project is based on Python, OpenCV , and Mediapipe The goal of the project was to create a functionality that replaces the traditional Atari 2600 joystick with our hands and fingers position using a camera . The code estimate the position of each hands , and calculate the X,Y axis to simulate directions and shooting, That transforms it to an action. The project also combines : pose estimation of the hands and fingers gesture, capturing the game image and sound , and merge it into a new window as one visual game (keeping the original sound). I added a link for the code in the video description, so you can download and enjoy it. Enjoy Eran

Hi everybody! I have bought an ATARI 2600 woody heavy sixter and im facing a problem.. In my crt (sony trinitron 14") tv i have great pic but no sound.. I have tried to connect it to my lcd screen and i discovered that only if i change the sound system to I i hear sound.. I have a pal system and i live in Europe (Greece).. I have attached the serial nr and the atari version... Any help what to do? Thnx

***Disclaimer: I purchased this controller with my own money and was not sent it to review. I don't get any sort of proceeds or compensation from the sale of these controllers, nor was I paid or compensated in any way for this review, and my thoughts on it are my own. Basically, you're getting my honest opinion*** Heya folks! Recently I found myself in need of a new joystick for my Atari 2600 (after snapping my second to last CX-40) so I decided to reach out to RetroGameBoyz.com to see if they could build me a custom Atari 2600 arcade stick. They offered several multi-button arcade sticks for the Atari 5200 and Atari 7800, but they didn't have a single button Atari 2600 dedicated stick. The owner of the company was really friendly and said he'd be happy to work with me to make a custom arcade stick to my liking, so we set to work designing a joystick and button layout template and after a bit of cooperative trial and error I think we settled on a very nice aesthetic and functional design and he got it all assembled and shipped out. After a little waiting for UPS to deliver it, my RetroGameBoyz custom Atari 2600 arcade stick arrived in the mail today, so here it is! It's pretty rare for me to not have any complaints about a product, but I think this one came out pretty darn awesome! The injection molded case (which measures 7.75" wide, 5.75" deep, and 3" tall) is just the right size to set over your knee without feeling cumbersome and the little rubber feet on the bottom grip rock solid if you want to set it down on a table or a lap desk. It feels extremely solid and hefty with no creaks or wobbles, and I think the light beige color really makes it look like an authentic Atari product from the early to mid 80's. The 3D printed top logo graphics plate and control panel plates are easily the smoothest feeling 3D prints I've ever seen and if I didn't know better I would honestly think this controller was a factory production item from back in the day. The 10 ft cord with case mounted tension pull really completes the look and there's nothing about this controller's appearance or feel that would ever make me think it was a handmade product and not a new old stock arcade stick from the 80's. As far as the controls go, the joystick is a high quality Sanwa JLF clone that I had RetroGameBoyz equip with a octagon shaped restrictor plate for precise control in both 4-way and 8-way games. It plays a mean game of River Raid but also works just as well for Ms. Pac-Man! The joystick spring tension feels just right too, not too light to flop around but also not strong enough to give you false inputs if you let the joystick go and allow it to snap back to center from any direction. The button is very nice as well, with a smooth snappy feel and very little pressure required to actuate the silent microswitch. It's not light enough to accidentally press just resting your finger on it, but after putting the button through it's paces with an hour of Plaque Attack I can safely say that it's extremely responsive and excellent for games that require high speed rapid tapping. Another neat feature is that the button comes equipped with a nice bright red LED that is powered off the +5 volt pin of the Atari 2600's controller port. All in all I'm absolutely thrilled with this arcade stick, and also happy to see that RetroGameBoyz liked my custom design enough to make it a regularly stocked item on their website! For the $65 they're pricing this at it's a serious steal of deal, and I'd recommend it to anyone in need of a good solid Atari 2600 controller that'll perform excellently whether you're just gaming for fun or playing competitively in the High Score Club. If you'd like to pick up one of these awesome little Atari 2600 arcade sticks for yourself here's the link to it on the RetroGameBoyz website: https://retrogameboyz.com/products/atari-7800-2600-arcade-stick-mold-injected-case