Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'broken'.
-
Definitely my bad this time. Ugh. Here's a great example why it's not a good idea to do hardware changes when you're in a rush. You know, by lifting the cage that houses the power supply and bays without first disconnecting the ribbon cable from the motherboard. In the process I accidentally broke one of the pins off of the floppy drive connector on an Amiga 2000 motherboard. The pin is securely stuck in the end of the ribbon cable's connector. Any advice on the best way to fix/replace the motherboard's connector? I'm guessing that the cable itself is kaput, since I don't see how I can get the actual pin out of it. Another question: It's been awhile, but I was pretty sure that PC and Amiga disk drive ribbon cables were the same. Is that correct? Thanks!
-
Hello guys and gals, I just bought a broken vectrex on ebay for cheap and the first thing I noticed when I turned it one was that the graphics are collapsed into a neat horizontal line. You can see the little lights move when the game starts up so it is reacting to the game, which I think is good. the controllers work and the sound is excellent. I removed the back (carefully of course) and noticed that the 353ic gets really hot when the vectrex is on, could it be that the chip itself is fried? or is something happening elsewhere that is causing that chip to overheat? I ordered that same chip on ebay because it is probably bad, but how should I check for problems elsewhere? I'll have an update video if the chip does in fact fix anything but until then here is a short one I just took. any information is appreciated, let's get it fixed! http://youtu.be/1hGm4IlEn8A
-
Hello all, I work at a Disc Replay, I see games come in all the time, but these two games are causing me trouble. I have: Cleaned the pins with alcohol I have not: Tested with multi-meter Re-soldered chips Bought a donor cart for a possible switch? Cleaned with contact cleaner Knights of the Round and SMW + SMAS: http://i.imgur.com/l8b8pmW.jpg http://i.imgur.com/WcX2fKG.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hTulJc7.jpg http://i.imgur.com/tTu0rHr.jpg Do you see something that I don't on these carts? Should I put more time and effort into getting these to work? Thanks.
-
I recently bought one off of ebay, but I looked around online and heard there was a design flaw that ruins the belt and creates a kink. It's also loose and doesn't rewind or fast forward properly. I tested a hair tie in it, and while it would rewind, it wouldn't play anything. So I'm wondering what dimensions I need. I found a website that sells these kinds of belts, just need the size. I heard it was 8.6" square or something like that, just wanted to make sure.
-
Hi @ all, i'm new to atari 28 years old and my first console was a SEGA Master System 2. Atari 2600 was a few years before my time;) but i wanted to give it a try and have some retro fun. So i bought a big package containing a woodgrain light sixer, a Junior, 8 controllers and 35 games. So far so good... I connected the antenna cable of the Junior to my television (modern LG Flatscreen) and it worked perfectly. Colors and sound were all right. But the light sixer seems to have some problems. As far as i know they both use RF and both should output the same picture to my tv. But the light sixer just gives a bad picture with totally wrong colors (always the same way wrong.... see Pictures) or just Grey (and even that very poor). I tríed it on different channels (switch A-B on the console and different settings on the tv) and i even tried it on an old TV (also see pictures) Had anyone this problems too? Is something broken? What could it be? Can it be repaierd? I planned to do a AV Mod. I already ordered this kit (still waiting for it) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Atari-2600-7800-A-V-Composite-Video-Mod-Kit-NTSC-PAL-DIY-/171149875461?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d953d905 Could this mod help with the picture even if it's that bad rigjt now? I'm unsure what to do because the light sixer should already output the same Picture as the Junior... and if i do this mod and it's still the same the broken light sixer is even less worth and i put the work into it for nothing Any idears? EDIT: i only got one PSU with both consoles... no idear if it could make a difference... it's one like this http://www.konsolenkost.de/images/produkte/i90/9030262.jpg http://www.konsolenkost.de/images/produkte/i90/9030262-1.jpg EDIT: as far as i know my light sixer should be PAL. At least the seller told me that. Sadly there's no sicker on the back... how can i find out if the light sixer is PAL or NTSC? Any internal part that Shows this clear? If the console is NTSC i contact the seller and want my Money back.
-
I have two joysticks, and they both work. However, on one the joystick is really has to move. Suggestions? I will post pic
-
Hi All, So I pulled out my Atari 5200 to test a controller my friend found at a thrift store. The good news is the controller works, the bad news is my system doesn't anymore. I was playing for about an hour before all of a sudden it decided to stop working. When I turn the system on, I get a solid black screen. Before this happened, I was getting some strange video irregularities. The screen for the most part would be okay but it would go into to flashing fits and then level out again. It seems like it got worse the longer a game was played. I thought maybe it was a dirty system/game or the video cable was going bad. Cable checked out okay. I cleaned the games and it made no difference. I found a repair manual online from Atari for the 5200 that had a troubleshooting section for a solid black screen. I took my system apart and pulled out my multimeter. I was unable to check the frequencies of the chips because I believe I need an oscilloscope for that. Checking the voltages where the manual said to, it looks like the voltages were all good except for A26, the 4013 Power ON/OFF latch. Across pin 8 and 16 I was reading around 14v where it should have been 5v. VR1 & VR2 were both showing 5v on their output pin so I'm not sure where this extra voltage could be leaking from. I did notice one larger resistor by the AV box closest to the end of the board was VERY hot. (By Q6, Q7. They're blue with gold, black, red, green brown rings on it) My system is a two port model, so it does not have the power integrated AV box like the 4 port model. Any ideas where to go from here? Thanks!
-
First off, i'm new here so I will enjoy being on these forums. I've had this Atari 2600 6 switch console for about two years, and it does work pretty well. I have a few games that I can play on it, like Adventure being a favorite. Lately I've had 9 games that never seem to work on this console left over. They include: Kaboom! Solaris (kind of works, but only plays for roughly a minute) Battlezone* Golf Canyon Bomber* Human Cannonball Pac-Man* Berzerk* Pitfall* When I bought a big selection of these games (about like 8 ) in February, they were tested on a four switch board (I think it was a Vader). All of those games were working absolutely perfectly when they were tested. When I got home however and put them in the six switch board, five of the eight games weren't working (those games are marked with asterisks) . I get these screens with high pitched sounds and pixels scattered around the screen whenever I turn them on; I don't understand what is wrong here, since I have 15 working copies of other games that work either perfectly, or usually work 3/4 of the time. (Adventure is missing its title, and Asteroids is not on the shelf) I tried to clean the cartridges with Q-tips, but they still didn't work. Then I disassembled two of them to see if anything was missing, but it all seemed intact. I've spent two hours on this and its been very stressful. There's gotta be a problem with the console itself, considering the fact that Pac-Man, one of the best selling games on the Atari, doesn't work. If anyone can help me with this problem, that would be very nice. Thanks.
-
Hey all! I'm new here and this is my first post - please be gentle! I bought an Atari 2600 Jr. from a bootsale for £15 (~$25) including some games, with the promise that it worked. I got it home, plugged it in, and it did... sort of. The image was what I expected from an old Atari, but it had blurred lines rolling up and down the screen intermittantly. However, once I tried to turn it on and play a couple of days later, nothing... No image at all. I know the concole itself is working (as the red LED light is shining), but no image is being sent to the TV itself. I have bought a new lead to connect to my TV, but still the same result. It is also worth noting that my console has no switch to change between channels 2-3 (I opened it up, but there looks like there was never space for the switch anyway), and so I have tried manually tuning the console to the TV, with the above results. So far, I have tried the following: 1) New coax lead 2) Opening and removing dust 3) Different TVs 4) Different games 5) Manual tuning Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! (I am fairly new to Atari fixing, so baby-language would be appreciated!) Frenzii
-
HI, I have owned my Veccy now for about 13 years, bringing it to Ireland from The Isle of Man via titchy airplane in a dodgy field in Ulster somewhere... long story..... Anyways, a couple of months ago I plugged it in and the buttons on the controller refused to respond to anything. The stick still works just fine but none of the buttons seem to work at all. The Veccy suffered no bumps, trips or falls, it has sat in the same spot for some time, the controller buttons simply ceased to respond one day, despite having worked the previous time it was turned on. So, Big Question. Before I open the controller up, Has anyone else had this problem? I was thinking it might be something simple, seeing as all the buttons are not responding, like the ground wire being broken in some regard. But the stick still responds..... Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!
-
Edit: Nevermind. The problem was with the = 1 that somehow got after the joy0fire statement on the second-last line. How did it get there? I don't know. Does anyone have any idea where I messed up? This program used to compile and run, but ever since I tried to make the reset switch work it stopped compiling, even after I removed the offending code... The alleged syntax error is in a different place every time I try to compile the program. Usually it's either at the start of the first line, or the end of the last line. Here is the code attached: predator.bas Here it is in code tags: rem batari Basic Program rem created 8/06/2014 1:59:51 PM by Visual bB Version 1.0.0.554 set kernel_options pfcolors no_blank_lines set romsize 8kSC pfcolors: $AE $AC $AA $A8 $A6 $A4 $A2 $A0 $2A $28 $24 end playfield: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX............XXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX............XXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX............XXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX end AtariLogo player0: %00100001 %01010010 %10001010 %10001010 %10001001 %00000000 %11100001 %00010001 %00001001 %00001001 %00000101 %00000101 %00000101 %00000101 %00000101 %00000101 end player1: %11000110 %00000001 %00000110 %00001000 %11000110 %00000000 %00001110 %00010000 %00100000 %00100000 %01000000 %01000000 %01000000 %01000000 %01000000 %01000000 end COLUBK = $00 var0 = 0 var1 = 0 var3 = 0 draw_loop if var3 = 1 then gosub changesprites1 if var3 = 3 then gosub changesprites2 if var0 = 0 then gosub logos if var0 = 1 then gosub titlehold drawscreen goto draw_loop logos if var1 < 12 then var2 = var1 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 12 then AUDV0 = 4 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 12 then AUDC0 = 4 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 12 then AUDF0 = 7 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 12 then AUDV1 = 4 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 12 then AUDC1 = 2 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 12 then AUDF1 = 5 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 14 then AUDV0 = 0 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 14 then AUDC0 = 0 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 14 then AUDF0 = 0 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 14 then AUDV1 = 0 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 14 then AUDC1 = 0 if var3 = 0 then if var1 = 14 then AUDF1 = 0 if var1 = 87 then if var3 = 4 then var2 = 0 if var1 = 87 then if var3 = 4 then var0 = 1 if var1 = 87 then if var3 = 4 then return if var1 = 87 then var2 = 11 if var1 = 88 then var2 = 10 if var1 = 89 then var2 = 9 if var1 = 90 then var2 = 8 if var1 = 91 then var2 = 7 if var1 = 92 then var2 = 6 if var1 = 93 then var2 = 5 if var1 = 94 then var2 = 4 if var1 = 95 then var2 = 3 if var1 = 96 then var2 = 2 if var1 = 97 then var2 = 1 if var1 = 98 then var2 = 0 if var1 = 99 then var3 = var3 + 1 if var1 = 99 then var1 = 0 if var1 = 99 then var2 = 0 player0x = 75 player0y = 35 player1x = 83 player1y = 35 COLUP0 = var2 COLUP1 = var2 var1 = var1 + 1 return changesprites1 player0: %11101110 %10001010 %11101110 %00101000 %11100110 %00000000 %11100111 %10010101 %10010101 %11100000 %00000000 %01001010 %01001010 %01001110 %01001000 %11101000 end player1: %01100100 %10101010 %10101010 %10101010 %01100100 %00000011 %01110100 %01010111 %01110101 %00010010 %00000000 %11010100 %10100100 %11101110 %00000100 %00000000 end var3 = 2 return changesprites2 player0: %10001000 %10001000 %10001110 %11100000 %10100000 %11100000 %00000000 %11111011 %10101010 %10101011 %10101000 %00000000 %11101010 %10101010 %10101110 %10100000 end player1: %01100111 %10000101 %11100111 %10010001 %01100001 %00000000 %00000000 %10100100 %10100100 %01110111 %00100000 %00000000 %11101000 %10101000 %11101110 %00100000 end var3 = 4 return titlehold player0x = 75 player0y = 35 player1x = 83 player1y = 35 COLUP0 = $0A COLUP1 = $0A if joy0fire = 1 then var0 = 2 return Thanks -
Hi, I bought an Atari Lynx II off eBay recently, and it has some major(/minor?) issues with it. Here it is with some games... http://youtu.be/CWBfSetBSP8 http://youtu.be/uom5cUNRLMQ http://youtu.be/PIIG-Len6w4 These seem to be both video and in game bugs and crashes; I am wondering if there is any fix for this. It seems to be an issuse with the system. ...Or if I should try and get some/all of my money back. ($42.88 after shipping, came with loose Roadblasters and Blue Lightning, boxed Klax, and sealed Xybots and Crystal Mines II)
-
Hi everyone, I just made this account as a last ditched effort to revive my Vectrex. Long story short I bought it for $50 hoping it would be an easy fix, boy was I wrong. I've adjusted every pot inside the thing, seated all socketed chips and even replaced the 6522 and mc34004p chips. Still no progress. Even accidentally removed a few solder pads in the process, even worse, my sound sometimes just decides not to work for some random reason... So just keep this in mind. Anyways onto the actually problem. My vectors don't connect/align properly. For example on Mine Storm my ship is a jumbled bit of lines and the enemies are either the same or 2/3 of a triangle or whatever they're supposed to be, some are connected while others just 'float out of place. I knew about the issue when I bought it but to be honest I had no idea it would be this much trouble trying to fix it. Is there anyone who can shed some light on this cursed vectrex? (I can even take pics and shoot a video later today and upload it) Thanks.
-
I'm looking for a good intact color screen to replace my broken one. Will buy or trade for.
-
I just bought a sears telegames off ebay, and only the button works on the paddle controllers. Turning the wheel does nothing at all. I have tested these on a standard 4 switch 2600 and they work fine. It works fine with normal controllers though
-
Recently my trusty switch switch quit working. It had occurred after moving the difficulty switch from A to B (in space invaders) and an odd screen appeared. Afterwards I turned off the Atari, re-turned on and all that appears is a black screen with two slightly colored thin bars on both sides. I checked the power supply with another Atari and it seems to be working, the cartridge is not an issue of course, and after looking around online I would assume that it is the power/voltage regulator? Any advice would be appreciated- it truly saddens me when such events occur, a light six switch simply isn't a heavy one
-
I recently purchased a broken Sega CD Model 1 off an auction and did a bunch of small repairs. So far I've gotten everything to work perfectly except one annoying problem that I can't seem to figure out, stuttering choppy audio. All of the obvious things have been checked & contacts have been cleaned thoroughly and the Genesis runs fine on its own. When connected to Sega CD the sound is stuttering from the Genesis headphone port as well as the TV and even when the mixing cable is used. The only time it sounds clear is when a aux cable is plugged into the Sega CD mixing jack with nothing connected to the other end, which I assume is disabling the sound that is coming out of the Sega CD side of things. Anyone ever experience this before?
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord