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Showing results for tags 'color'.
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I have a friend who is making a "PC" port of Jaguar Doom , and he ran into some colour issues as it pertains to the B_IINC: Anyone out there deciphered B_IINC's actual behaviour yet? This documentation (and this) isn't cutting the mustard.
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So, this thread is all about the original Gameboy, Gameboy Colour and Gameboy Advance! I love Nintendo's line of Gameboy handhelds and they are certainly my favourite systems of all time! They are what I have the biggest collection of too out of all of my consoles as the vast majority of the games are extremely affordable nowadays. I just think that there are so many classic first party titles from Nintendo on the Gameboy as well as a ton of hidden gems! So, if you fancy a discussion about the Gameboy line of systems and the games on them, feel free to have these discussions here! Also, if you have any questions, feel free to ask them! Anyone who is friendly and respectful is welcome here regardless of whether you're new to the Gameboy or very familiar with it. So, I hope you enjoy! So, let's get this started with a question! What are some of your favourite Gameboy games? Two of mine have to be the Super Mario Land games! In my opinion, they are simply classics! Here is a review that I did of the first Super Mario Land if you are interested:
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After my Vader 2600 has been running for around 10 minutes or so, the colors on the screen start to flicker and fade. The video signal is clear without static or lines. It's just the colors that start to get distorted. Like shown in the video below, the blue background on Ms. Pac MAn turns green. Sometimes it goes completely black and white for a while. I checked the output on the voltage regulator on the board, and it is putting out a steady 5 v. I also turned the color potentiometer. Any ideas? Thanks. https://youtu.be/fIStcwKMiWI
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Hey guys, yesterday I opened up my atari 2600 4 switch because the picture on the screen hasn't been the best lately. Sometimes it has good picture and sometimes it doesn't :I Anyways, I opened it up and found that the rca cable that leads into the system has a small cut at the very end. This is most likely the picture problem. I tried to pull it off and switch the chord, but I couldn't! It was stuck! I applied some force to it, but nothing. I don't want to put TOO MUCH force, because I don't want to break the thing. Is anyone else's Atari 2600 stuck like this as well? I believe this is the original cable.
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I know that color variance has been discussed here, but I'm curious how you folks tend to handle it. I'm trying to figure out how best to plan to test to make sure my colors work at least reasonably well on any system. When I run my game with my Harmony cart on my real atari, I get significantly different colors on my TV than stella shows. If I flip to stella's z26 color mode, it's a bit closer to what I see. Without having quite a few TVs and Ataris to play with, what can I expect across the board for how my game will look on different systems? (and I'm willing to exclude garbage old TVs that can't produce reasonably "correct" color) Is my game going to look like Stella's default color scheme on some systems, and the z26 on others, and something in-between elsewhere? Or is it going to be fairly consistent across TVs? Thanks! -
Already having discussed the problem we have (http://www.atariage....2/#entry2659435) when trying to use the raw video output, straight RGB values coming from a NTSC A7800, in a palette for emulators which lack proper NTSC video emulation (especially YUV/YIQ support), what will be accomplished here is taking YUV/YIQ achieved colors turn them 'vibrant' and make hard RGB values from them. In that same thread here... http://www.atariage....2/#entry2659624... you'll notice that true NTSC/YIQ/YUV simulation created multiple shade for each color value. So we will take some of the greater values and make a VIBRANT palette from it. The palette will be bright and brilliant respecting red against green, and blue will be stronger relative to the RAW palette or even a default derived YUV palette. Again this is to simulate the colors many NTSC users likely saw from their analog CRT TV's favoring more vibrance. This end result being limited with just an RGB palette and no further video controls working off the RAW palette from the previously linked thread. MESS is closer to ideal: http://www.atariage....2/#entry2660238 but I know many like using ProSystem and wanted to provide this for the community. Here is the NTSC_A7800_YUV_VIBRANT palette and color chart: NTSC_A7800_YUV_VIBRANT.zip
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Hey everyone. I wanted a way to know what values correspond to the various colors available on the A8. I hunted around for a while trying to find a program that showed them to me as I was pretty sure I had seen something before. Anyway, I didn't find what I wanted so I started writing something in BASIC. But as I started to code it in BASIC I realized it is actually less tedious in many ways to code it in Action! It's a simple program that adjusts the hue and luminance of the screen border based on user key entry in the form of increment or decrement. It's compiled with the Action! RTL, so it is ready to run on most any Atari 8-bit computer. No Action! cartridge required. I have ARCed the executable, along with my source code. Hopefully it's useful to someone else besides myself too. But it was fun to code in any event. SHWCOLOR.ARC
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From the album: SIO2 Projects
7800 DevOs modified system with custom paint that matches Epyx 500XJ or Wico.© SIO2
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Well I finally got my Coco 3 today...Hooking it up to my TV & firing up Super Pitfall gave me the biggest wave of nostalgia I've had in a while ..It was like I was transported right back to the floor of my parent's living room in the late 80's lol I had the black, non self-centering joystick though when I was a kid, but this time around I got the Deluxe model. Super Pitfall & a couple other games played with no problem, but others like Thexder & Rad Warrior I couldn't get to work right. I read the manual online about the switches on the bottom & dials on the top that I was never familiar with, but no matter what I tried, nothing seemed to help. Sure it's one simple thing I'm overlooking. For Thexder the button is making him jump, but the joystick does nothing...Same with Tetris, the button drops the tiles down but nothing else works...on Rad Warrior the character just runs on his own until he gets stuck in a corner where he proceeds to run in place lol..Same thing with a couple others I've tried so far, button works but joystick doesn't...yet there are a few games where I have no issues Another thing...I was disappointed to see vertical lines on the screen on my flatscreen with the composite input. They're not bad enough to where it's unplayable though at least, but I could def do without them...I haven't tried the RF yet, but I imagine it would look worse. The picture from my modded 7800, Genesis & Super NES composite outputs is clear on the other hand....But my NES, when I 1st hooked it up to this TV it appeared to be fine..Shortly after the AC Adapter went bad (Generic universal NES/SNES/Genesis plug)..Once I got a replacement (Official NES) I now get thin wavy lines in the background of every game I happen to be using the same RCA cables on the Coco 3 that I was just using on the NES..But the chances of the cable itself being the problem would be too good to be true I'm sure...I have no others ATM, so no way to test another set anyways..Can anyone shed any light on any possible solution? I don't want to get a seperate CRT TV or play on a monitor (nor have the space if I wanted to) Thanks in advance, Steve -
Hello I'm new to the AtariAge forums and hope I’m in the right place. last week I picked up a Magnavox Odyssey 2 with all the cable and a few games. i hooked it up to the TV in the living room. tested all the games and everything seemed to work fine. so I boxed it back up and moved it down to my 8bit dungeon. few days later i decided to hook it back up and play some KC munchkins… but it was in black and white so i tried resetting it, other games, different TV.. still black and white. so i searched the interweb and found nothing on losing color but i did fine and pretty simple AV mod so i did that. The AV mod works perfectly, except it is still in black and white… am i missing something? is there a color BW switch like on the 2600 somewhere.? or is it just plane old broke.
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Looking for the following cartridges to add to my collection: Androne Demon Attack Don Pan Dragonfire Math Tutor Mindroll (Coco 3 Version) Rampage Shanghai Thanks
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I'm looking for a good intact color screen to replace my broken one. Will buy or trade for.
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I am looking for a Windows or Linux based editor for manipulating for editing 4 colour pictures. I then want to save the file to a raw bytes format. The bytes which it saves also need to be packed, so that 1 byte contains the contents of 4 pixels. I am not interested in a chain of tools, i.e. You draw it in Paint and then import it into somewhere else and then run it through something else. In this particular instance, I have a 128 x 24 pixels image which I want to be able to write straight to a file of 768 bytes. I do not need any colour information encoded into the file, just pure pixel values.
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hey guys, works been slow lately so ive been working on a hack, or to be more specific, a hack of a hack. the original hack was based on motocross, but the bike sprites had been replaced pod racers. its on JDD (http://jims_digital_domain.tripod.com/dwnloads.htm) if you want to have a look. Im taking it a step further by modifying all the other sprites (done) and changing the background (also done), but I also want to change the color of the sprites and background. witch is where im at a loss, ive made mods to games that use sprites in the past shure, (EX: chris sawyers locomotion) but in those games the sprite contained the colors used in it. on the Atari however, it seems the colors must be contained somewhere in the games code, and sense both the sprites and and all other code are in binary im having a difficult time finding what determines the color of the sprites. are there common locations in the bin to look for the colors, or are there any tools that can help me find them? I would appreciate any help, thank you.
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Short and Sweet version... The most complete and diverse palettes available; including not only "tint/hue" but internal console "pot adjustments" as well which in part accounts for variances between systems and displays. A range of brilliance and saturation levels are included too. Grab the complete set with below description and explanation here: GCCFINALXX_20130624.zip *UPDATED 6/24* - Additional color logic/decode for neutral "pot" palettes and improved naming convention. Detailed version... The GCCFINALXX palettes offer a robust range of settings with much diversity regarding color control. It includes "tint" adjustment (as typical found on a display's end-user controls) as well as "pot" adjustment (Color tuning found inside the 7800 console). Additionally, there is a range of color brilliance and saturation settings from the raw/base levels to extreme levels. Here is a typical file name: "NTSC_GCCFINAL1G_XTRBRT_LOWSAT.pal" It describes the palette in the following four areas: I. Region II. Palette Family Pot and Tint/Hue Setting III. Brilliance Setting IV. Saturation Level I. REGION: The region difference is noted by either NTSC or PAL in the file name. II. PALETTE FAMILY POT / TINT SETTING The difference respecting the "pot adjustment" is noted by either number 1, 2, or 3 in the file name: 1 = More Blue to Red, Less Blue to Green. 2 = Neutral 3 = More Blue to Green, Less Blue to Red. The difference respecting the "tint/hue setting" is noted by either a letter G, N, or R. G = More Green N = Neutral R = More Red Complete Color Base line: GCCFINAL1G = TINT is more green / POT is more blue over red, less blue over green GCCFINAL2G = TINT is more green / POT is neutral GCCFINAL2G-ALT = TINT is more green / POT is neutral (Alternate color logic) GCCFINAL3G = TINT is more green / POT is more blue over green, less blue over red GCCFINAL1N = TINT is neutral / POT is more blue over red, less blue over green GCCFINAL2N = TINT is neutral / POT is neutral GCCFINAL2N-ALT = TINT is neutral / POT is neutral (Alternate color logic) GCCFINAL3N = TINT is neutral / POT is more blue over green, less blue over red GCCFINAL1R = TINT is more red / POT is more blue over red, less blue over green GCCFINAL2R = TINT is more red / POT is neutral GCCFINAL2R-ALT = TINT is more red / POT is neutral (Alternate color logic) GCCFINAL3R = TINT is more red / POT is more blue over green, less blue over red III. BRILLIANCE: The level of color brilliance or brightness is noted using the following: LOW = Base/Raw Level MED = Average Level XTR = Extreme Level Complete Brilliance Line (Least to Greatest) = LOWBRT, MEDBRT, XTRBRT IV. SATURATION: The level of color saturation is noted using the following: LOW = Base/Raw Level MED = Average Level XTR = Extreme Level Complete Saturation Line (Least to Greatest) = LOWSAT, MEDSAT, XTRSAT A few final thoughts...Keep in mind that your current display device (Computer monitor can have a slant/push) may result in you choosing a palette that could seem like an unlikely candidate or choice. For example, have you ever read a review where they says the monitor has, not a red, but a "pink push", or "too much pink"? The actual issue may be there is a stronger than expected or accustomed to blue over red ratio. In that scenario, you may want to counter it with one of the GCCFINAL3X palettes depending on how strong the monitor's slant/push is of "pink". Or if you have a display with a red push, you may want or/and need to counter it with one of the GCCFINALXG palettes. Then again, your current display may be perfectly color calibrated and it is the original 7800 system or device you play(ed) it on that leans or slants in a certain direction regarding colors as a result of the pot adjustment or television configuration. It's all factors to keep in mind when trying the select a palette that looks 'right' to you. Please note too, one palette may look just right for one game and very wrong for another. A few titles there is little noticeable changes (I.E. Dig Dug) among a slew of different palettes. In other titles, each palette will make a obvious and distinct difference (I.E. Xenophobe). ENJOY!
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I'm attempting to mix bB code and Assembly to do some more advanced things, such as having a single bank of colors/sprites that are assigned to players based on a variable. Note that this is using the DPC+ bB kernel. The issue here is in regards to pointers and how flexible they are in Assembly, because I don't know. For instance, I have a set of colors for a sprite: asm milCol .byte $D6 .byte $D6 .byte $D6 .byte $D6 .byte $D6 .byte $D6 .byte $D6 end I want to call this bank of color values and assign them to every player in a loop, in case I want to assign a specific color to individual players later. I noticed when looking at the game's assembly that colors are assigned like so: .L0241 ; player2color: lda #<(playerpointers+20) sta DF0LOW lda #(>(playerpointers+20)) & $0F sta DF0HI LDX #<playercolorL0241_2 STX DF0WRITE LDA #((>playercolorL0241_2) & $0f) | (((>playercolorL0241_2) / 2) & $70) STA DF0WRITE . ; .L0242 ; player3color: lda #<(playerpointers+22) sta DF0LOW lda #(>(playerpointers+22)) & $0F sta DF0HI LDX #<playercolorL0242_3 STX DF0WRITE LDA #((>playercolorL0242_3) & $0f) | (((>playercolorL0242_3) / 2) & $70) STA DF0WRITE . ; There's a pattern--players 1-9 are assigned their low and high points using the (playerpointers+x) phrase where x = 20 + (sprite# * 2) I'm attempting the following: for temp1 = 0 to 3 temp2 = 20 + temp1 + temp1 asm .enemycolor lda #<(playerpointers+temp2) sta DF0LOW lda #(>(playerpointers+temp2)) & $0F sta DF0HI LDX #<milCol STX DF0WRITE LDA #((>milCol) & $0f) | (((>milCol) / 2) & $70) STA DF0WRITE end next This should calculate where the high and low points for the player pointer will be and add it to playerpointers in order to point to the right location. It compiles, but doesn't work. Is there some special way I need to address the temp2 variable in order to allow it to be added to playerpointers? This also applies to sprites. I would like the sprite for any player to be chosen based on a certain variable (in my case it's enemy0, enemy1, enemy2, etc.) so, if enemy0 is 1, it will grab a certain sprite for that player and set it to a certain color, without the redundancy of repeating sprite and color tables for each possible combination for each player. There are two ways to do it. Either I could have a series of statements like the above .enemycolor for each possible color/sprite and then adjust the player's pointer based on a variable to point to the sprite/colors that are applicable, or (preferably) I need some way to change which data set is being loaded on the fly, such as the following mock-up: for temp1 = 0 to 3 temp2 = 20 + temp1 + temp1 data playerColors milCol, milCol, milCol, drkCol end temp3 = enemy0[temp1] temp4 = playerColors[temp3] asm .enemycolor lda #<(playerpointers+temp2) sta DF0LOW lda #(>(playerpointers+temp2)) & $0F sta DF0HI LDX #<temp4 STX DF0WRITE LDA #((>temp4) & $0f) | (((>temp4) / 2) & $70) STA DF0WRITE end next ... asm milCol .byte $D6 .byte $D6 .byte $D6 .byte $D6 .byte $D6 .byte $D6 .byte $D6 drkCol .byte $00 .byte $00 .byte $00 .byte $00 .byte $00 .byte $00 .byte $00 end So, two questions: 1. Is there any way to dynamically adjust the value being used for the player's pointer? 2. Is there any way to dynamically adjust which data set is being pointed to?
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Short and sweet with difference from previous offerings: Final layer of A7800 NTSC palette generation applied incorporating the appropriate gamut color space and white point along with a corrected gamma curve which in turn impacted Hue/Tint begin and shift point. Here are all the NTSC palettes zipped along with some captures: ALL_FINAL_NTSC_PALETTES.zip Here is the color reference chart: File details: All palettes - the extra/overdriven ones ("EX" folder) and the plain/neutral ones ("NORM" folder) - are calculated palettes with no 'hand-picked' or 'manually manipulated' colors. Both batches contains a base (‘NTSC.pal’ or ‘NTSC_EX.pal’ respectively) along with a *very* gradual - one degree shifts - to either green or red; same as would be found on a NTSC display with a TINT/HUE control. The extra/overdriven palettes compared to the plain/neutral ones have a contrast increase of 20% and a saturation increase of 10%. Plain/neutral palettes have their contrast, brightness and saturation settings with no bias. There are a total of 62 palettes following this pattern: (MOST RED) NTSC_R15.pal...NTSC_R01.pal <---> NTSC.pal <---> NTSC_G01.pal...NTSC_G15.pal (MOST GREEN) or (MOST RED) NTSC_R15EX.pal...NTSC_R01EX.pal <---> NTSC_EX.pal <---> NTSC_G01EX.pal...NTSC_G15EX.pal (MOST GREEN) I'm still happy to take request, but this should cover most wants as best as possible without actual NTSC generation inside the emulator itself. I am working to have 'NTSC.pal’ palette incorporated into MESS as that is the most unbias with neutral settings and all other provided palettes are easily obtainable through adjustment of the provided emulator controls having the correct base in place. Dig Dug and Ms. Pac-Man (from Pac-Man Collection) are showcased below utilizing the following palettes in this order: NTSC_G07.pal <-> NTSC.pal <-> NTSC_R07.pal NTSC_G15.pal <-> NTSC_R15.pal & NTSC_G07EX.pal <-> NTSC_EX.pal <-> NTSC_R07EX.pal NTSC_G15EX.pal <-> NTSC_R15EX.pal This is really *it* and final this time. I hope you enjoy them and find this useful. & &
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Okay folks...here we go. These are palette files from an actual NTSC color palette generator. The first set has a "standard", but some people may prefer or have televisions that either emphasized green or red more (aka Tint/Hue Control). Also, if you have adjusted the color pot in the 7800 unit itself, it can also account for these slight variations. The following variety of files accounts for that and hopefully more for you: NEUT.pal - Neutral Standard NEUT_MINUS_05.pal - NEUT.pal with minus 05 degree shift (Red Lean) NEUT_MINUS_10.pal - NEUT.pal with minus 10 degree shift (More Red) NEUT_MINUS_15.pal - NEUT.pal with minus 15 degree shift (Most Red) NEUT_PLUS_05.pal - NEUT.pal with plus 05 degree shift (Green Lean) NEUT_PLUS_10.pal - NEUT.pal with plus 10 degree shift (More Green) NEUT_PLUS_15.pal - NEUT.pal with plus 15 degree shift (Most Green) The next set contains two slight adjustments to contrast and saturation providing a more pleasing looking (and IMHO, more TV realistic) colors: NEUTADJ.pal - NEUT.pal with 33.3% less contrast and 50% less saturation NEUTADJ_MINUS_05.pal - NEUTADJ.pal with minus 05 degree shift (Red Lean) NEUTADJ_MINUS_10.pal - NEUTADJ.pal with minus 10 degree shift (More Red) NEUTADJ_MINUS_15.pal - NEUTADJ.pal with minus 15 degree shift (Most Red) NEUTADJ_PLUS_05.pal - NEUTADJ.pal with plus 05 degree shift (Green Lean) NEUTADJ_PLUS_10.pal - NEUTADJ.pal with plus 10 degree shift (More Green) NEUTADJ_PLUS_15.pal - NEUTADJ.pal with plus 15 degree shift (Most Green) No matter what palette you choose you will immediately see 'base' appropriate colors in situations like the enemy birds in 'Joust', the forest in 'Bentley Bear - Crystal Quest', and the latest 'Tank Command - Midnight Run' & 'Donkey Kong - Pokey Sound' (Arcade colors) hack, as well as appropriate colors in other standard/original titles - Xenophobe, Dig Dug, Ms. Pac-Man, Commando, etc. Ideally it would be great to see ProSystem, MESS, and all other Atari 7800 emulators incorporate something like Blargg effects or their own internal NTSC color generator. For now though, I hope this helps and benefits the community, Trebor PaletteRC1.zip
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I was wondering if anyone might know some specific details about the PAL GTIA. The data sheets that are out in the wild seem only to cover NTSC. Here are my questions: From the schematics of various Ataris, it appears that the PAL pin acts as an input (?) for the PAL color carrier frequency line. Is this right? From my understanding, PAL switches color polarity every line and indicates this via changing the polarity of the color burst. Does the PAL GTIA do this? Does this manifest as every other line having inverted hue (i.e. 15-hue), or shifted hue (i.e. 7+hue%15), or what? Is the PAL color palette really substantially different from NTSC? On NTSC systems, the color clock (one gr.7 or 15 pixel) is 279.4 nS long. For color pixels (hue != 0), the COLOR line goes low at one of fifteen possible times, and the delta between each possible color can be (depending on the CADJ voltage level) anywhere between 16 to 35 nS (that's according to the various data sheets; though only values on or slightly below 18.6 nS would make for "correct" color output, as anything beyond that would result in higher color values bumping into the next pixel). On PAL systems, how does this timing work? Is it relative to the color carrier (PAL line?), or OSC like NTSC? If it's relative to the color carrier, does that mean the possible delay values are much shorter than 16-35 nS? Does anyone have any real-world timing measurements for PAL GTIA, or know of a PAL GTIA data sheet? Thanks in advance...
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I'm new here! Well, not entirely. I actually lurked a bit before posting, but here I am requesting help from one of the biggest pools of knowledge on Atari anything! I just got in this 7800 from an Ebay ad that I was very disappointed with in general. That's another story though. WAY too many problems with the shipment, description, condition, communication, etc. One of two Ebay problems I've had total. Good record, I'd say! The 7800 is in cosmetically good shape. It runs smoothly (full color) for 7800 games with my RCA to RF adapter, but can only display 2600 games in black and white with hints of yellow. I tried the pause button, but nothing happened. After a bit of Google sleuthing, I came up with this page: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/88442-25-atari-7800-showing-colour-2600-mode-please How he fixed it made my heart sink a bit. My soldering skills are less than favorable, plus I don't currently have the tools for this kind of fix. I've opened up a 4 Switch Atari VCS and cleaned it with great success. Brought it back from the dead, more or less. Do you guys think I can fix this myself? Or, is there anyone out there who knows how to fix it and would be willing to help? Thanks in advance! Hope to hear some good news about this 7800's backwards compatibility.
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I recently saw that an AA seller has listed a Sega Nomad here. This has sparked my curiosity. Does anyone have any particular memories about this handheld? Might as well plug the posting (not mine) while I'm at it: http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/191168-for-sale-sega-nomad-system-16-games-power-controller-case/page__fromsearch__1
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