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Showing results for tags 'composite'.
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Links Website Notes Composite output Single transistor design Premade kits available Ships from Turkey, can take a while to arrive Removes RF box Also offers a combo AV/Pause kit (I've used this one, it works pretty good!)
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Links Website Review by Ben Heck Notes Composite and S-Video output Stereo Audio Design only, premade kits no longer sold
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Links Ben's Website Notes Composite output Single transistor design Design only, not a premade kit Removes RF box
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Hey guys. I've seen a lot of good help on this forum that I've used to help me diagnose my Atari 2600 4-switch that has not worked ever since I tried to install a widely used composite mod. (Kit Link Here) I installed it using an instructable (Instructable Link Here) I followed all instructions including removing q202, r209, r222, and c205, aaaaand... nothing it didn't work. (note: when I say nothing, I mean the TV says no signal.) I suspected bad connections but that wasn't it. I tried re-soldering the old components and that did something for a while but then it stopped. Next I thought that it wasn't getting enough power so I checked the power supply and 5v reg. Both were just fine except the 5v Reg had 2 of it's pins crossed. After uncrossing them I got some video for about two seconds and then it quit. (see attached video) I thought it was the chips now so I replaced all 3 (TIA, RIOT, and CPU) and this put me back to the same old no signal screen. I tried the old chips on a working system (w/o composite mod) and they gave a black screen. Not sure what to do at this point. Nothing is abnormally hot. Maybe my somewhat noob soldering skills maybe be a problem Cheers, kalgran Glitching.mp4
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so about a year ago i did a 2600 Jr av mod i found somewhere where you added 3 resistors to some pins on a chip and got composite video out... only problem is i tried adding a set of jacks instead of having a cable hang out... but now the video signal is gone. i spent like 3 hours trying to fix it, but all i get is scrolling white. i can sorta see some of the sprites, but i can't figure out what was going on, and ended up removing the added parts... but now the capacitor for sound lost a leg... so i need a new one of those also. anyone know of the mod i'm talking about, like i said i cant find it again, or at least another one that worked for you? also it does the same thing when RF is connected back.
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So I picked up a "non-working" CV from eBay ($25, bundled with 2 OEM controllers, power supply, and Illusions). The also-bundled RCA output cable was severed and frayed at the end. Powered on, tested all 4 connections, voltage checked out. No picture with replacement RCA (using a RCA-to-coaxial adapter; love those things). Concluded it was the RF modulator, so I decided to give Ben Heck's composite mod a try (http://www.benheck.com/Games/Coleco/Video_Mod.htm). It worked!...with two unexpected results (both may be unrelated to the mod, I'm not sure). 1. There is about a five-second delay after the console powers on, after which the ColecoVision title screen has about a three-second fade-in. After fade-in, the picture and colors are as clear and perfect as composite can give me. I'm using a 32" Toshiba CRT; all other consoles using composite output don't have this picture delay. The micro-potentiometer in my mod is turned up all the way. I should also point out that I tested the mod's circuit, and all components--including the video out--were getting the proper voltage (~12V DC). Is this a normal/typical "side effect" of the Ben Heck mod? Or is there something wrong/off with one of the components? 2. I noticed these stray, square sprites in fixed positions in a few of my games. (See attached pics for reference.) I first noticed a couple of them in the rivets stage of Donkey Kong... and then I saw a couple on the level start screen of Illusions.... It was then that I inferred they might be appearing in the same places regardless of the game, and that they won't appear on a black/"null" background. And then I put in Zaxxon.... Eureka! There looks to be a vertical row of these sprites, evenly spaced, across the entire height of the screen. Has anyone seen/solved this issue before? Thank you each for your time and help with this one. Love ya, appreciate ya.
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I'm attempting to mod my Sunnyvale Heavy Sixer with a composite video mod. I'm following the quick and dirty single transistor composite video amplifier mod, the schematic is attached. I've built it twice with two different transistors to rule out the possibility of bad parts. I've removed the RF modulator and I'm attaching this amp to the composite video pin that used to go the RF modulator. So far I've removed Q202, R213, and the large pink inductor near Q202. On the screen, I'm getting a dark black snow and the TV think's it's a PAL video signal (it's an NTSC Atari). I've also posted the composite video waveform I've captured with my scope. Without the mod, it's about 1.2V peak to peak and the horizontal blank looks like a fang rather than a rectangle. NewFile9.bmp NewFile11.bmp NewFile10.bmp With the mod, for some reason the signal becomes less pronounced, at about 200mV peak to peak. NewFile12.bmp This is what my main board looks like right now I should also note that on the secondary board of the Atari (the one with all the switches and the RF modulator), my RF modulator only has 3 pins. All the tutorials I've found online show an RF modulator with 5 pins. The 3 pins on mine are +5V, GND, and (I assume) composite video. Can anyone help me with this mod? Did I forget to remove a component from the main board or something?
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From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component
My Atari 2600 4-Switch Woodgrain Console Modded for Composite A/V, S-Video and YPbPr Component using Tim Worthington's (etim's) 2600RGB Mod. with an additional 2600RGB to Component Add-On Board. I'm very happy and pleased with this mod.© Activision Man aka SavyIsJoshoArts
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From the album: UAV Installation
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From the album: UAV Installation
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Good day to you all! I've been pretty successful in modding old PAL 2600 Junior Consoles to Composite Output. But now I stumbled upon 1 (2 in fact) very stubborn one. I would be glad if you guys could help me troubleshoot this, and lend me some advice on how to find out what is broken. I already checked the usual stuff like power and power supply. It has 9v power and the led is also shining brightly red. The only problem is, there is no video output from it. It is the board revision F.1.1 (the other one is Rev F). There are no visible damaged components or capacitors so I am all out of ideas. I already made the Composite mod, to quickly check if there is any video output and the parts of the mod are all okay and working correctly, as I tested it on another console successfully. The strange thing is, R28 had a capacitor soldered onto the same pins as the resistor itself. I desoldered it and tried it again with no success. It looked like the one on C12 (yellow blob). So, to get to the point, is there anything I can check to find out what is wrong? I own a multimeter and all the tools necessary except for a logic analyzer or an oscilloscope. I would be endlessly glad if you could help me get to the root of this by any means, so I can gift another old console for Christmas. Thank you and best regards/great holidays. Fleder
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MUNCIE INDIANA LOCAL PICKUP ONLY - MUST HAVE A TRUCK OR VAN this will NOT fit in your sedan; even if your seats fold down. Have a dolly/hand-truck. 37" screen, great picture and sound. Just replaced wheels and the speaker cones were all but dust;;; replaced with some $45 car audio speakers from Wal-Mart. The speakers wouldn't fit so I cut the holes bigger with a Dremel, not the prettiest job but you can't see that because the speaker covers hide it. They sound as good/better than the original speakers. See pics, the back has additional hookups for satellite speakers, though the built ins, I believe most people would find more than sufficient (miles better than the tin-cans TVs have now-a-days). The CRT has no scuffs/scratches. The console has some minor scuffs hardly noticeable, and one pretty good one on the top right (a few inches long). The glass door on the front works, but needs re-mounted properly. I'd not used it, and when I put it back on, I didn't have the proper screws/mounts so its not on super-sturdy, but easily fixed. Dual S-Video hookups; perfect for some old school gaming. The CRT is not removable from the console/cabinet - it's all ONE PIECE. It weighs probably ~150+ pounds; guessing. When you push it across the carpet, it's so heavy it wants to roll up your carpet if your not careful. It is 45 1/4" tall. 39" wide. 21 1/2" deep (at base). and of course the CRT is 37" diagonal. Looking for $100 even. Would trade for Atari 8-bit (800/xl/xe series; not 2600) stuff, nothing particular, but even if I already have, I love spares/extra I just don't have the room for this monster floor model :-(
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As some of you may know, I've been talking about posting a thread with some pics showing the picture quality issues I've been having with my 2600. It has a revision 12 motherboard and I've replaced the caps and voltage regulator. I've tried two different mod boards, both donated by members here. I want to make it clear, the mod boards aren't the issue, since they work extremely well in my 7800. The pictures you are about to see show the difference in picture quality between my modded 2600 and my unmodded Jr. While the picture from the Vader looks out of focus, it isn't. You can still clearly see the name plate on the bottom of the TV frame. I tried to take both pictures from the same distance and angle, but it's not perfect. I also had to shrink the pictures in order to upload them. So, here they are. I'd like to hear thoughts on what might be causing this issue, since I find it hard to use the Harmony Cart with my Vader because the menu is pretty hard to read. It's much worse in person than the pictures would lead you to believe. The first pic is from the Vader, the second is from the Jr.
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Is there a way to adjust the brightness of the video signal? After I installed a composite mod kit in my 2600, the brightness is so low that playing Space Invaders at the right color configuration is almost impossible. And yes, I know about the color potentiometer. I feel like there should be a better option than adjusting the brightness of my TV to unnaturally high levels.
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Just wondering anyone has any idea about this problem concerning a rolling interference pattern on my AV-modded Colecovision. I'm attaching a photo to demonstrate what I am seeing on my CRT TV. It's a set of diagonal rolling lines on the screen that disappear after several seconds and then show up again. It drives me nuts, especially in games with a blue background (eg. The Coleco blue skill selection screen, or Evolution title screen). This problem is most visible on my AV (composite) connection but also shows up on the RF coax input as well, though not as noticeable because the lower quality hides it a bit. I've tried the transistor AV mod as well as the op amp version of the mod, and neither rectified the issue. I've also tried two different power supplies, cleaned the power switch and PCB, and tried different TV sets (CRT and LCD). I don't want to waste any more time on this but was just hoping someone can help out. Someone else had this same problem a couple years back and he ended up selling the unit and buying another one, which didn't have the problem. So it wasn't an issue with his power socket or location.
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Atari 2600 $99 12 games, two joysticks, high quality s-video and RCA cables. games. $99 Games that are included with the system are Donkey Kong Jr Midnight Magic Mouse Trap Solaris Moon Patrol Ms. Pacman Centipede Galaxian Frogger Q*bert The Empire Strikes Back Popeye Games ($8 min) Games arranged by rarity (feel free to make any offers )
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Hi all, I've been lurking a while to reading advice, but am a first time poster. I've just got my Atari 2600 and am so excited because I get to re-live all the memories I had as a child when I used to have one. I've read many of the forums on connecting it up but not 100% sure on the solution so would like to check something before going ahead. My problem comes with my TV. This particular TV does NOT have a F-type Coax input connector or component/composite input. It only has a non-screw coax out, HDMI, USB, SCART and the connection for the TV Aerial which I think you call RF input. This is the TV http://direct.asda.com/george/home-garden/tvs-brackets/polaroid-42-led-hd-tv-series-1/000554128,default,pd.html I have plugged the RCA from the Atari directly into the TV RF input. I get a good picture and it all works but I get no sound, just loud white noise. I understand that this is because the RF inputs can't handle both so I need another option. Looking at Switchboxes etc they still seem to have the F-type screw in for the Coax input so that's no good. So the only option I can think of is this: Can I plug the Atari RCA into a second hand VCR's aerial input and then use the scart from the VCR to the TV? Would that work? There may be a gadget or something else you may suggest but I don't understand the RF Modulator/demodulator thing. Is that an option and if so can someone point me in the right direction to the right one to buy? I assume it would go from RCA to HDMI or does that not work? Any advice would be more than welcome and hopefully once I am up and running I look forward to chatting about playing the Atari again for the first time in 30+ years. Many thanks. Tec.
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I'm wondering if anyone knows whether the Intellivision Model 1 system can be modified to be compatible with the Atari 2600 System Changer as well as a Composite A/V mod at the same time? If so, are the modifications easy or are they pretty difficult? I'm really interested in this because it seems like these mods would kill two birds with one stone, especially since my 2600 died recently. Any light that can be shed on the subject is greatly appreciated! Thanks! -
This is just an interest check. I have the following modified Atari 7800 system and 16 games. What would they be worth as one lot? Would anyone want to buy these as a lot? If so, how much would one be willing to pay for the following as a bundle? Suggestions? Comments? Asteroids Ballblazer Barnyard Blaster Centipede Dig Dug Donkey Kong Jr. F-18 Hornet Galaga Jinks Joust Karateka Meltdown Ms. Pac-man Robotron 2084 Tower Toppler Xevious I had this system modded for s-video and composite stereo audio. I have the 7800 gamepad. I have the joystick as well.
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Like so. My Atari 2600 had really bad RF out. Way 'snowier' than normal so I figured it was probably just the RF circuit so why not mod it. Results are striking. Well worth the effort (",) It uses a 'daughterboard' that someone local to me gave me to try out. You can see it in the second pic, sitting next to the original RF unit, just above where the original coax connected o the motherboard. My model had the coax permanently attached. I used an old cable I had lying around, but I have ordered an aftermarket gamecube s-video cable. This has a round cross section. It will be thicker than the original but will still look the part, and it means I don;t have to do any drilling
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After pulling my Apple IIGS out of the attic, I plugged it in to my modern LCD TV via composite. However, upon boot up, the screen is garbled and jumpy. If i wiggle/twist the RCA connector at the IIGS end, i can fix the garbled video and jumpiness, however the colors are all wrong, as in they look very deadened/muted. Medium blue appears as a dark blueish grey, dark red looks like brown, yellow looks very faded, etc. Is this caused by the failure of a certain chip, should I replace the capacitors, or what? EDIT: I should also add that if I flip the switch on the back, and turn it on again, I have to wiggle the RCA cable all over again for a while to get the image to work. When viewing text, there are also several pink/green artifacts. Knowing that it is an Apple II on a color display, this could happen, but I just wanted to put it in here to be safe.
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NOTE: THIS GUIDE IS NOT YET COMPLETE IN THIS ONE POST! THERE IS PLENTY MORE TO KNOW AND I'M JUST GETTING STARTED! CHECK BACK IN LATER POSTS FOR MORE INFO! Hello AtariaAge! This is a guide I've wanted to put together for a while about getting the best possible image (and audio!) quality from all of your retro consoles, including Nintendo, Atari, Sega, Sony, Microsoft, and even other consoles like the Colecovision, TG-16/PCE, Neo Geo, and Intellivision! IMHO one of the coolest things about collecting games today is the fact that we can experience them better now than we did years ago with the new technology available to consumers via the magic of the internet. If you've ever wanted to make your games look amazing on real hardware, this is the guide for you! Check out this comparison! It is truly stunning to see. For starters, you need to understand the issue non-HD consoles present: to plug into the largest amount of standard consumer televisions, all consoles from the Atari 2600 all the way until the Wii were packaged with either a Coaxial RF (Radio Frequency) cable or composite RCA cables. These pack all of the audio and video into one and three cables respectively. The video is condensed and is ruined before it even reaches your TV. However, with the power of better cables many systems can output superior quality right out of the box! Take the SNES (non-mini) for example. It can output a superior Video signal! Check out this comparison! It is even more stunning in person! However, the SNES can still do even better! RGB is a video signal that carries the video and audio over even more pins than S Video, separating the red, green, and blue parts of the image. Most RGB signals are carried over SCART cables, which were popular in Europe but never available in the USA: Here it is! The glory of RGB! However, you may have already noticed an issue here: even if your console does output a superior signal like S Video, RGB, Component, or VGA, how do you display it? Like I said no American TVs had SCART inputs ever. Also, what about systems that don't output anything anything above RF, let alone RGB, like the Atari 2600 and ColecoVision? Don't worry, there's much more to come very soon! This is just a teaser post for anyone who hasn't been lucky enough to see the glory of RGB and retro consoles looking their best. -
Hello: I'm tired of passing the signal from my Atari 2600 through a VCR, setting the monitor to the correct channel, and then enduring the lousy image from the RF cable. I would like to buy an Atari 2600 Jr console with the S-Video and Composite video mod, like the one Electronic Sentimentalities sells. I sent him an email on December 20, 2015, and he hasn't answered yet. The email didn't bounce, so he got it. Would he be able to see my message here? Or would somebody else be able to provide the same service? I want to buy specifically the Atari 2600 Jr because it is the smallest fully compatible console. I presume I will be able to use the Harmony Cart with the modded console without problems. I will buy that after I buy the console. Thank you.
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Hi Guys This is my first post here so please be gentle with me. I'm from the UK and I've recently bought a couple of Heavy Sixer's from the States. I have modded one of them with a composite video kit and it works great. However, I was wondering what else I would need to do to convert the system into a PAL unit? I've read about the TIA and how it differs so my questions are: a) Could I replace the system board only with a PAL light sixer, keeping the switch board and all other original components? Would this work? b) If I was to keep the system board and replace the TIA with a PAL unit, is there anything else I need to consider? The info on the internet I've found seems to be pretty vague. I read something about the crystal also needing replacing and maybe some other bits? Thanks in advance
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ElectronicSentimentalities http://electronicsentimentalities.com/InstallationServices.html Spectacular...If I had to choose one word to describe both my dealings with and the end results of the service that ElectronicSentimentalities offers, spectacular would be that word. I have had the pleasure of purchasing and currently own the Best 7800 Composite mod system, a 7800 system mod from Yurkie, and now one from ElectronicSentimetalities. Yurkie was dead on the money recommending their service after discontinuing the one he provided. The recommendation meant a lot to me, knowing how satisfied I was and how awesome Yurkie's work was on the 7800, for him to recommend another - I knew it had to be good. I was wrong. It is not good, but excellent. Joe was friendly, fast, and a pleasure to deal with; including shipping my console back way before the expected return date. Further, the price is extremely reasonable. You get S-Video, Composite, and audio out jacks. The composite picture is the clearest I have seen and the S-Video is even more stunning. Being that I own a "CPS 7800 Diagnostic Test Cartridge'', the console was tested, and the color calibration was shown to have been performed perfectly as well. The console was packaged very carefully when sent back including a second box with padding/insulation in addition to the one I utilized sending my system out. Externally, you could not tell (Outside of the new connectors) the system was even touched. In fact, it was wrapped nearly exact the way I shipped it. You're not a DIY console mod person or not very good at it; or just want the ease and convenience of having your 7800 system mod done beautifully and professionally with spectacular results, this would be the place your console needs to go. Highly recommended and highly impressed - Bravo, Joe/ElectronicSentimentalities.
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