Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'heavy sixer'.
-
I'm continuing this from my latest blog post, Two Fries and a Hamburger, so that "All may benefit from discussion". After installing a composite mod on my Atari, the voltage regulator failed and took a couple of RIOTs with it. Another user suggested I just replace the VR, that it would work better because it's new. Is this a good idea? And do the new regulators fit the old cage heat sinks?
-
Yesterday my heavy sixer stopped working. I opened it up, thinking it was a connection problem, but reconnecting the ribbon cable did nothing. I read in a forum post that voltage regulators, when they fail, tend to take a few ICs with them. I replaced the RIOT, and it worked for 30 seconds before dying again. So... Now I have 2 fried RIOT chips (pictured) and a failed voltage regulator. Apparently this is a common problem with the old steel-cage heat sinks, and makes sense because I recently composite-modded the console, putting stress on the VR. I wonder why the online instructions didn't recommend installing a more effective heat-sink? "We are not liable for any damage done to you or your Atari." Guess that's why. So if anyone has any suggestions on how to replace the voltage regulator in this particular case, let me know. I'm going back up north, so I won't be able to fix this problem until spring break. Time to focus on the NES I guess.
-
When I took apart my heavy sixer to perform a composite mod, I noticed a paper on the bottom of the motherboard. I wanted to know if I could infer the date of manufacture from this and the serial number, since the date stamp usually taped to the top of the shield box is missing. I think I saw Rev-2 or Rev-3 on the switchboard. Unfortunately, I already put it back together, so these pictures are all I have. And yes, it had H6er internals. I'm still pretty new at this. Can't figure out how to embed local pictures inline.
-
From the album: Crimson Gallery
This is a shot of my heavy's serial number, also posted in the heavy sixer thread. -
From the album: Crimson Gallery
This is my heavy sixer a few months ago. This image was posted in the heavy sixer thread. -
Since it looks like I'm in the market for a new 2600, I'm thinking of springing for a Heavy Sixer this time around. I'm wary of getting one off of eBay, but a video game store near me has a nice one in working order. Problem is, they're charging $200 for the console only. I overpaid for my last 2600 and don't want to make the same mistake again. Is it really worth that much, or should I see if I can talk them down?
-
From the album: Darth Duke's Atari Corner
I've learned from this great website that the fact that my console says Sunnyvale, CA on the back means that it was made the first year the Atari 2600 came out and is a 'heavy sixer' model. I was really happy to find that out.© DarthDuke 2016
-
So I bought a sears heavy sixer in the box on ebay about eight months ago and I have some questions about the contents of the box. The controllers that came with the box appear to be cx-40's so I was wondering if any of the sears heavy sixer's came with cx-40's originally or if the controllers I got were replacements. I also didn't get target fun with the box so I was wondering if that came cart only or cib. I am missing the original power adapter and TV switch box so I doubt I would ever actually complete it, (the box is in fairly poor condition anyway) but I am still curious about it. What do you guys think about the sears heavy sixer? I personally love the silver control panel and simulated walnut wood grain. I honestly like the aesthetic better then the regular atari vcs. For $90+s&h in box I think it was well worth it.
-
I'm doing a little spring cleaning via eBay and thought I'd let the fine AtariAge community know about it! I'm selling a working XEGS console bundle, non-working XEGS, non-working 1050 disk drive, working Sunnydale Heavy Sixer, 8-bit games including: Blue Max, HardBall!, Defender, Ms. PacMan, Fight Night, Centipede, Space Invaders, and The Hitchiker's Guide to the Galaxy. Check it out, if you've got the guts!: http://www.ebay.com/sch/bigheadedd/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= Everything is auction-style and starting at $ .99 and I'll combine shipping for anything you win. Thanks for looking!
-
What's a good price range for a heavy sixer console only including shipping?
-
Hey Everyone, I need some recommendations and help with a project I am working on. I have an early Sunnyvale heavy sixer I picked up of craigslist recently (2 years ago probably..lol) and it looks like it's had a slightly rough life. Since I have a minty heavy sixer already, I thought this one would be fun to do a project with. I have always loved the look of the Vader 2600, and I always though a heavy sixer would look great in that color scheme. Normally I would never "deface" a classic like a heavy sixer, but since this one needs some TLC I though why not. So what I would like to have done is the following. 1. Fix Heavy Sixer: Gets a black screen with some static. I don't think it needs much. 2. AV Mod heavy sixer- I would like an AV mod with true stereo, S-Video if possible, and a Red LED over on the left side of the unit. 3. Custom Paint- I would like it done up in the Vader color scheme, with the orange switch surround blacked out and the woodgrain done in a glossy professional manner, with a new Silver Atari Logo on the left hand side and a custom silver "Heavy Vader" in a similar font over on the right hand side. Not having the skill to do these things myself, i'd like to find someone on here who can do one, or all three of these things, in a clean and professional manner. I'm willing to break up the work if need be, but the less times i have to ship it the better! I'll post after pics when it's done for all to enjoy! Please help me find the right person to breath some new life into this classic!
-
I would like to buy a mint condition Atari 2600, Heavy Sixer made in Sunnyvale, preferably the Sears model. Sears model or not, it must be in mint condition and I will pay what we agree is fair. Thanks! EDIT: Purchased one. -
From the album: My Game Collection
the Serial number of said heavy sixer -
From the album: My Game Collection
same heavy sixer, closeup to reveal base -
From the album: My Game Collection
Bought this at work. A guy brought it in, with a dozen games, 3 joysticks, and manuals, $10 -
Hey I need some help... My beloved sears telegames sunnyvale heavy sixer console has ran into some issues with it's audio/video output. So at first it would only display black and white, the color switch had no effect. No matter what position it was in, it was always black and white. Turned it off and on a few times and the color came back, but it was still very dull. Color switch still had no effect. As of now it displays very fuzzy and dull color. And has no sound. Tried different games, different televisions, even different video wires. Nothing helps... I suspect an internal issue with the console... Please Help! I want to get her working again.
-
From the album: Spawnshop's Atari 2600 Collection
-
From the album: Spawnshop's Atari 2600 Collection
-
I heard at one point that just as there was an original model of the ordinary paddle which had the Atari logo instead of the word "paddle," there was also an original model of the driving paddle which similarly had the Atari logo rather than the word "driving." The closest I've seen to one is on eBay there was an auction for driving paddles "CIB" and the box had a picture of driving paddles as I described above. However, the actual paddles inside the box in this auction said "driving" rather than having the logo. Does anyone know for sure whether these mythical driving paddles exist? Better yet, does anyone own one that can post a picture? I'm trying to collect an entire set of "first run" Atari hardware including the heavy sixer with original accessories and controllers. Thanks!
-
Not too long ago I didn't even own a heavy sixer. First I found my keeper and then quickly stumbled across two more. One I bought for the sears controllers it came with (my keeper is a tele-games) and the other I found on craigslist and grabbed for the CX-10's. I'm selling one of the two here (buyers choice) along with a pair of original CX-10's, Paddles, driving controllers and a few games. Auction started at 99 cents with no reserve and free shipping! eBay Auction -- Item Number: 301710555850 -
Hi all, I'm looking for an Atari H6 top shell in good condition, especially in the frontal faux woodgrain part with the logo. I have to replace mine which got ever more ruined in a rather clumsy attempt of restoration pm contact. Thanks. Andre
-
Mrs. Shake found a Craigslist post and tipped me off. She said she’d seen it listed for about a week, and finally contacted the guy. She even drove us out there yesterday evening. She knew by the photo it was a Heavy Sixer, and she knew I’d been wanting a Tele-Games console of some kind for my collection. I dig that swirly woodgrain, and we’ve already got a Tele-Games game storage center in our living room to match. (They look fantastic together.) I’ve already got what I call a “Half Sixer” -- a H6 top and guts with an L6 bottom put on during an early-‘80s refurb. It plays and looks great. But it’s not quite the same as THIS. Mrs. S didn’t realize that the CX-10s in the listing photo, assuming they worked, were the icing on the cake. It was (to us, in our market) a really good deal. And it was a great sort of situation, too -- literally a middle-aged guy selling stuff from his mom’s house in the ‘burbs, most likely his own console from back in the day. No sleazy resellers, no eBay-style price gouging, no junk-shop nonsense. Which meant this hadn’t been rotting in a landfill for decades, and was pretty clean. It all smelled overwhelmingly of mothballs and had a serious case of “dust crust”, but I gave it a bath in the kitchen sink and that helped a lot. I tried to be very careful not to get let any of that hot, soapy water splash down in the cracks and mess up the electronics, either. [Just kidding -- I disassembled the whole thing and left the guts on my desk, and even put plastic/tape over the serial sticker.] Once it was clean, it looked great. Switch cleaner in the switches, compressed air on the board. And I took internal shots for all you fine folks, ‘cause I know how much some of you love innards. It was initially giving me some fairly staticky picture, but I swapped the (stock?) RF cord for a “known” good one out of a Vader, and the static dissipated (see Question #1, below). I need to adjust the color a little, but it’s most certainly a keeper. One of the CX-10s works perfectly, one doesn’t even register, which I hope I’ll be able to diagnose easier than a “partially working” one. I figure it might just be a loose connection or something -- both controller ports on the console are fully functional according to the test cart. And while I prefer a nice and TIGHT joystick (like a new-out-of-the-box CX-40), this CX-10 is like a revelation. I’d never played on one before, and it’s just so SMOOTH! No hex discs, but no big deal. I still need to clean the paddles to see how they play, too. Two questions: 1) Why is it that the “nice” RF-style cables I’ve purchased or acquired ($10-$12 at modern electronic stores) almost always give inferior, staticky signal compared to the old ones I’ve “borrowed" from other VCS consoles? 2) What would you experts say a haul like this should be priced at these days (summer 2015)? Again, I’m very happy with what I paid, but four-year-old posts saying “Pfft, I’d never pay more than $XX for ____.” don’t really tell one much of anything as far as “current market price". That was then, this is now, right? I’m not planning on selling, or even parting with it, but I’d love to be able to thank my wife by letting her know just what a good deal she sniffed out. I’m stoked. My first “true” H6. Now if you’ll excuse me, I have some Berzerk and Pac-Man 8K to play. ----------- Sears "Heavy Sixer" Model - Cartridge Telegames System Video Arcade (Sears) Serial - 88378T Sticker Type - White, single Mfg - Sunnyvale, CA QC Date - 1172.S / "99 33700008 . #" Casing Date Hotstamp - (None) Motherboard Rev. - Rev 6 (CO10433) Switchboard Rev - Rev 5 (CO10462) Other Markings - (see left joystick port sticker)
- 8 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- Heavy Sixer
- H6
- (and 1 more)
-
Hey guys, I am hoping someone can help me out with determining the value of my 2600. I bought an original 1977 Heavy Sixer at an antique mall/flea market type establishment, complete in box with the manual, warranty card, both original joysticks and paddle controllers, and all the cables, except for the switch box to hook it up to a TV. I purchased one of the coaxial adaptors so I could play it. In addition to Combat, it also had Riddle of the Sphinx, Starship and Air-Sea Battle in the box when I got it. I'm considering selling it, and I have no idea what it is actually worth. I would feel like a douche if I overcharged for it (I don't trust ebay prices as a guideline for anything) but I also don't want to give it away for too cheap either. I'm looking to either get a few more NES or Master System games instead, as I don't really care about having Atari hardware. I have an Atari flashback, and I love all the games on it. Any input would be most appreciated. Like I said, I have no idea what a fair asking price would be. Hope you experts can help me out! Thanks guys!!!!
-
Hello Atari fans. Possibly a boring post but here goes anyway. I've come across an unusual and official Atari brand CX2000/2600 power supply (UK 240V). I say "rare" because i've probably handled over 1000 2600 PSUs as I recondition the Woody 2600 light sixer models and have purchased 100s of job lots over the last 10 years. The label reads Atari CX-2000/2600 (in that order) It's similar in design to the early 1977/78 Cherry Leisure and Ingersol PSUs which came with UK Sunnyvale light Sixers and the PAL heavy Sixers but must have been made in 1982 (after the Val Proto was made obviously). As far as i'm aware it's unique and interesting that is says 2000 first as it if was made with the Val model in mind? Has anyone ever seen a 120V one of these? Probably not that interesting to most of you, but is to me considering the obscurity of the CX-2000 so I must be the only person with labelled power supply for one. A label error but shows the 2000 was on someones mind at the factory in the UK for it to be produced. Any thoughts?
-
Hi, everyone! This is my first post and I'm already asking for help... Anyway... I just got myself an Atari 2600, it's the so called heavy Sixer (I guess... I can't really tell, but since it's way heavier than my Darth Vader one, I guess this is it). to my demise it has that constant player 1 fire button problem. I've read several posts here about it, and most of the time they said that the issue is with the 4050 buffer chip. I tried to look for some sites around here ( I live in Brazil) selling it, but not luck so far... But the is another solution "the bypass"! I saw a picture of the schematics on a post, but since I can't really understand these things I wonder if someone can make a "for dummies" explanation for me... I really want to "save" my new-old beast.
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord