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Found 113 results

  1. Hi guys, not sure if this is the right place for my announcement but if you happen to enjoy Atari 8bit games and sometimes have to play them on your PC/Mac/Android using an emulator you might want to check out my new hardware adapter that will make it so much better http://joy.sophics.cz/dual-joystick-usb-adapter/ If you're interested please send me an email. The contact is linked at the bottom of the web page. Thanks, Petr
  2. From the album: Yes my collection

    I always find myself using this controller over all the average joysticks I have because compared to those it's very fluent. I bought this from whoever sold their Atari XEGS to me. I'd have to say whoever made this deserves an award of some sort. It's just great.
  3. Hey all, I am new to this retro collecting thing and recently received this joystick in an Atari 2600 lot I bought. From what I've been able to find, this seems to be a VIC-20 joystick, which apparently didn't sell too many before being discontinued due to a lawsuit from Atari. I'm looking for more information on this from people who are more familiar with the subject. Anyone here have any ideas on how rare it is? Is this something people are looking for? I noticed the joystick doesn't have much movement.. could it be locked up? Is it something I should open up and take a look at? The story itself seems really interesting, so I was looking for some more info on it. Any conversation on it would be great!
  4. After experimenting for weeks I have found a way to get lag-free control on the 5200 digital games as well as a few of the Trakball titles with the X-arcade Tankstick and my custom Tron 80's Arcade Multicontroller (which includes a spinner). This is done with daisy-chained adapters/cables and all the components are currently in production, so it's possible for anyone to get this set up. In the presentation I show a number of 5200 games being played in ways you've not seen them played before on the 5200 including Pac-Man, Beamrider, Choplifter, Dreadnaught Factor, Meteorites, Star Trek, and Zone Ranger. Hope some of you can benefit from this:
  5. Today I've got something interesting to share in the 2600 controller department. There is now an Ebay adapter that you can obtain pretty cheaply (made by Atariage member, Ikonsgr) that gets a PC USB mouse/trackball working on the 2600. The catch is that: #1) only USB mice and trackballs that have PS/2 compatibility will work (and those that have PS/2 plugs need to be adapted to USB with a cheap little green PS/2 to USB adapter). #2) This only works with the digital games (not the paddle games). The really great news is that #1 can be remedied by buying an Aten KVM switch that converts USB (non-PS/2) mice and trackballs into PS/2 compatible devices. These are not cheap (over $50), but can open up possibilities of playing your 5200 with some quite interesting controllers, including the X-Arcade Tankstick which has a trackball (shown in the picture below) and this as well: https://www.ign.com/articles/2006/02/03/x-arcade-trackball-review The video below starts with using the 2600 to play Mines of Minos, Cosmic Swarm, Centipede, and Off the Wall, and then goes on to the 7800. I start the explanation about the X-Arcade Tankstick trackball around 16 and a half minutes in (showing it work with 7800 Centipede) so you'll probably want to not miss that part. Also there's 5200 compatibility with an additional adapter so that might interest you as well. Hope this is beneficial to some of you The products: Here's the link to the PC USB mouse/trackball to 9 pin Atari adapter (sometimes the Ebay product goes out of stock, and then gets restocked, so definitely keep checking back if it's not available): https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Mouse-Adapter-For-Atari-ST-Amiga-Amstrad-Commodore-9pin-DB9-Joystick-Port/274204936054 Here are two links for the PS/2 to USB mini green adapter (1st one may not be based in the U.S. & is cheaper): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UMX89XA#Ask https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GUV4UK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MOoDEb7Y5HZVV The Aten KVM Switch (Model CS82U) is necessary to get non-PS/2 mice and trackballs working on your Atari systems and is found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QOBZXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZgpDEbQPRJ199
  6. I have a Electra Concepts Masterplay Interface 5200 in excellent condition, adult games Custer's Revenge and Eat'em & Best'em all FOR SALE... also 2 Wico Command controllers (joystick and keypad)
  7. Hi all, I've been browsing the Atariage forums for a long time now and with help from a lot of great posts I've modded and resurrected quite a few Atari systems. Thank you, to all of the knowledgeable and friendly people who post here. I finally came up against some issues that I haven't been able to sort out by searching the forums. I'll start out by telling everybody about the system I have. It is a 4 port 5200, (the non VCS adapter compatible one). I bought it untested from ebay with 3 games and 4 controllers, but no power supply or switchbox. I bought an original 4 port power supply and did the power mod to eliminate the need for the all in one switchbox, (thank you Mitch and CPUWIZ). I am using the original soldered on RF cable to connect the 5200 to my TV, (I'll likely do the video mod after I sort out the issues I'm having). I've cleaned up 2 of the controllers and the buttons are working good. The joysticks were too, but that's changed. Anyhow after I completed the power mod and hooked the 5200 to my TV it looked and sounded great, no problems with any of the games I tried. However some of the controller inputs weren't reading, but the system seemed to be working great otherwise. After a while thought a new problem started. The system would not turn off with the power button and I started getting graphical errors with lockups. The power is on as soon as I plug it in, without even pressing the power button. After reading a few posts here it seemed that I my power problem and graphics troubles were likely due to a bad 4013 flip flop. I bought a pack of 25 and have tried about half of them - no change, the problems remain. As a matter of fact even without a 4013 socketed the 5200 powers on as soon as I plug it in and will on turn off. I also still get graphical corruption and lockups after a short time too. Aside from changing out the 4013 I've also tested the power switch for continuity. It has continuity when the button is pushed and none when it isn't, so the button isn't the problem. This has me really stumped, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. On to problem 2 - the controller input issue. As mentioned I've cleaned and got working 2 of the controllers. So after some searching of the posts it seemed likely that my problem was due to faulty CD4052 ICs. I bought a pack of 25 and replaced the 5 that are on the board. Success! All of the buttons now work as they should. However I am having trouble with the joysticks. The joysticks worked fine initially, before I changed the CD4052s, but started to give me trouble before I did the swap and it didn't go away with the swap. As soon as I start any game it acts like the joystick is being pushed all the way down and to the right. This happens even if the joystick is centered and does not change even if I move the stick all the way up and to the left, or any other direction for that matter. It's the same with both controllers and the same with both ports 1 and 2, I have not tried ports 3 or 4. More reading on the forums is leading me to suspect I've got a fault Pokey chip. The Pokey looks slightly discolored around the edges. I don't have another to swap out, yet, but that is what I plan on trying next. I've also cleaned the pins in all 4 or the ports. Again any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I do own a multi-meter and a decent soldering iron, (which I am pretty good at using). I also got really lucky with the board revision in my 5200, every IC on the board is socketed, so no de-soldering required to swap out chips. This is the first 5200 I've owned and I've got a lot of great games that I want to start playing. I know some of you guys have seen it all with these systems, so I'm hopeful that I'll be able to sort it out with your help. Thanks in advance.
  8. Hello everybody:) I just downloaded to latest version of Stella onto my laptop and got the ROMS for it. I was wondering if anybody had any joystick advice for me. The USB sticks that look like Atari knockoffs on Amazon have pitiful ratings. I'm surprised that their isn't more of a selection for vintage gaming enthusiast. I wanted to get two joysticks so my Wife and I could play together. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Scott
  9. Grimakis

    TAC-2

    I just got one. It's pretty good, although the throw is a little long, and the buttons are rather deeper. What do you guys think, yay or nay?
  10. I've owned a few of these. Still have my original from the early 80s. I used to dislike the overall feel because to me they felt a little cheap. But after decades of service, and owning several, they sure as hell aren't "cheap". The ergonomics are a bit wonky, and the "feel" is a little off .... but they are ultra reliable (never had to take one apart for maintenance), and they are very accurate. The colors aesthetically match the XE series too; just a minor bonus for me. Now, for better or worse, I'm just used to them, as it's been my standby/go-to if other sticks were down for maintenance. Now it's just my main stick. Was looking at picking a few more up and noticed the ones I have (and have had) all have a depression on the underside and two screws on the joystick side. Most of the ones for sale have no bottom depression and have an additional screw holding on the joystick casing. Any comments, thoughts, or other insights on which variation is better? Should I go out of my way to stick with the variation I'm used to or is the other variation superior in some way. Thanks
  11. Modded my Atari paddle to a new design with an aluminum volume knob and some adhesive woodgrain drawer liner. Here's how I did it:
  12. I've got a new discovery of a special joystick that can get digital control games on the Atari 5200 & 2600 like Meteorites & other 80s versions of Asteroids to be more analog for fine-tuning the placement of your shots. This can also be helpful on Star Trek Strategic Operations Simulator and Wizard of War. On the flip side this variance in movement of your onscreen character may not be such a good idea in certain digital games because it may slow you down when you need to always be full-steam-ahead (ie. PacMan, Dig Dug, Frogger, Q-bert, etc...). It also will not be a preferred method of control with 5200 games that already have the benefit of innately working in an analog way with an analog controller (Missile Command, Super Breakout, Dreadnaught Factor, and Star Wars Arcade). But on the certain digital-control games which require specific shot placement or character placement, it's going to enhance your control. I am really excited to tell you that Beamrider and Gyruss are completely beyond awesome with this new method of control. I have yet to try Pitfall or Pitfall II with this method, but I can imagine there'd be a benefit with them as well. So I'd like to go over the details of how to set this up on the 5200. First you will need an original Playstation flightstick made by Madcatz. This controller has a switch to enable digital or 'pulse' digital control. The following adapters will be connected to that flightstick: 1] A PC gameport to Atari 5200 15 pin adapter. (Source: bohoki here at Atariage makes them) 2) An Atari/Amiga controller 9 pin to PC gameport controller adapter (Source: Ebay seller Ikonsgr74 makes them) 3) Best Electronics Atari Systems to Sega controller Convertor cable (Source: Best Electronics- call their 800 number to order) 4) A Tototek Joypad Counverter (Version MD). This allows Playstation controllers to work on a 9 pin port of a Sega Genesis. (Source: Tototek website) Alternate method: Replace adapters 1,2, and 3 with a Masterplay Clone adapter, and user the Tototek with it. One more method: Use a PC gameport to 5200 15 pin controller adapter with an Innovation SmartJoy Emulator adapter (Playstation to PC gameport adapter). The latter adapter is not easy to find at a reasonable price these days. If you want to see a presentation/tutorial on this, here you go:
  13. I've put up the latest presentation that has to do with playing and collecting 5200 games. This is filled with a lot of game footage as well as info on controller adapters as well as the Trakball. Enjoy!
  14. Hello everyone, If you are looking for an arcade quality joystick for your Atari 2600 or 7800, this is it. Incredibly high quality, custom made for me mid 2017. Ive used it a handful of times and have already upgraded within their lineup, however, this stick is in near perfect condition. The control you will have over your games will be unprecedented. Their build times are currently 4-6 weeks (from what i understand), but you can have this right now! Buyer to pay actual shipping costs. Email with any questions. Also selling an awesome Sears Tele-Games heavy sixer bundle. Check it out and we can work out a deal if you're interested in both! Thanks for looking! Per their website: Take classic Atari 2600, Atari 7800, and 8-bit computer games to a whole new level with the Super 78 - an arcade controller built around an authentic Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT ball-top joystick with an octagonal restrictor plate and two Suzo-Happ pushbuttons. Super 78 transforms gameplay on great Atari 7800 games like Asteroids, Ballblazer, Centipede, Choplifter, Commando, Dig Dug, Donkey Kong, Food Fight, Galaga, Joust, and more. The octagonal restrictor plate is the perfect compromise between a 4-way and 8-way joystick, providing distinct landing points for your stick in all eight directions. The Suzo-Happ arcade pushbuttons deliver true left/right two-button control just like the original Atari 7800 "Pro Line" controllers, but with none of the pain Super 78 brings new playability and excitement to classic Atari 2600 and 8-Bit computer games. The Super 78 is 100% compatible with the classic Atari CX-40 joystick familiar to owners of the Atari 2600, Atari Flashback, and many of the 8-bit era computers. When used with one of these systems, both buttons perform just like the single red fire button on the Atari 2600 joystick. But because our old-school concave arcade fire buttons are driven by super sensitive micro-switches, you can cancel your membership in the Numb Thumb Club! Easy to Play. Super 78s are built in an 8" x 14" sloped aluminum housing that is stable on the table or happy in your lap, with the joystick and classic arcade fire buttons positioned for a natural wrist position. Under the hood, all harness connections are soldered and heatshrink wrapped. The result is a controller to last a lifetime. The molded DB-9 cord length is approximately 5'6" (1.6m).
  15. Just put up my new article on the transition from joysticks to gamepads and what caused people to prefer the gamepads. My viewpoint is that gamers were looking for improvement in their hand comfort and the NES gamepad felt better than holding a joystick. Agree? http://www.nerdko.com/2016/10/29/from-joystick-to-gamepad-the-untold-story-of-what-nintendo-did-for-video-game-controllers/
  16. I'm looking for replacement controllers for my 2600 gaming. I have a pair of TG Enjoysticks, which are fantastic but seem to be on the verge of breaking. I would love to get more of the same but I've never seen them anywhere besides the original auction i got them from. Attached photos are some obscure items that appeal to me, in addition to the Enjoysticks. Some items I have for trade might include loose Vectrex stuff, Dreamcast console, Wii console soft modded for emulation, Game Boy games, Sears console, maybe other stuff. Or money.
  17. I am assuming the 2600-dapter II makes joysticks appear as normal game controllers to Windows. Will the dapter II allow my paddles to work like paddles in Atari800WinPlus? Stella? http://www.2600-daptor.com Thanks I suppose a better question is: does Atari800winplus support real paddles? I find that Stella does, but can't find any info about Atari800winplus.
  18. Famously bad joystick for sale or trade. I'm not sure the value so I'm looking for offers. There are a few for sale on non-U.S. ebay in $60-$100 range, with high shipping costs. I'm not actually sure of the function of this joystick either and could use some direction on that. I can only test that it is partially functional on 2600.
  19. Okay this isn't necessarily the right forum for this question but it's the closest I can think of where someone might actually know what I'm talking about and have an answer. So if you open up a typical Atari 2600 joystick, the wires that connect to the circuit board have (on the end of them) a tiny clamp which slides onto a trace on the board. Sometimes when I open up a joystick to repair it this is broken. I want to order some replacements. I can't seem to figure out what this part is called in order to search for it. Example: The closest I can find is a search for "wire crimps" from mouser.com but none of those look quite right.
  20. So I decided to build myself an arcade authentic, full-featured twin-stick arcade controller for the 5200...to properly enjoy the 5200 ports of Space Dungeon and Robotron: 2084. Lots of people have made Robotron: 2084 themed controllers, I've even built one for the 8-Bit/7800, so I figured I'd break the mold and build one themed for the 5200 exclusive arcade port of Space Dungeon. So unveiling my Space Dungeon Edition - VVG Experience Controller: Built into a beefed-up Hammond Mfg 20" x 11.25" aluminum enclosure and featuring: (2) iL EuroJoystick, 8-way joysticks w/ round restrictors (2) iL SST threaded top joystick shafts (2) Groovy Game Gear Hard Candy ball knobs (white) (2) Groovy Game Gear Classx push-buttons, w/ True-Leaf Pro leaf-swtiches (1) Grayhill 16 tactile button keypad, w/ custom button legends (6/6) Potentiometers, allowing for full adjustment of each joystick's maximum left, center, maximum right & maximum up, center, and maximum down resistance values for maximum game and console compatibility Custom CPO artwork based on the original arcade cabinet Custom 8' dual controller cord, cable assembly And obviously as the P1/P2 start buttons aren't required for Space Dungeon, they are wired as the 2 5200 fire buttons used in conjunction with the left joystick, thus giving this controller compatibility with the vast majority of the 5200 game library. The only games not playable are the few games that require "analog positioning", like Kaboom!, Super Breakout, Pole Position, Missile Command and a couple of others. Enjoy!
  21. I designed a circuit that allows the use of a PS2 controller to be used on an ATARI 2600 or ATARI 7800 gaming console. What I would like to know is if there would be any interest for this being turned into real a product? Of course the actual size of the product would be much smaller and more manageable. Please see my demo on YouTube: More info about me can be found here: https://www.linkedin.com/in/afabrizi/
  22. If any of you have wondered about whether the Hyperkin Ranger could be modded into a two button controller for Atari 7800 compatibility- well, the day has come for that to become a reality. I came up with a way to pretty easily accomplish this, and I did it with a Nintendo Switch Joycon connected to the Ranger. It was done without using adhesives or drilling holes in controllers, so you can rest-assured there won't be any damage done to your favorite controllers. My tutorial video and review of the Ranger with footage of Dark Cavern and Kaboom! is found here, so check it out:
  23. Here are most of my controllers for the 2600/7800, I have a couple joysticks and a joypad with the TV unit downstairs. The majority are original Atari ones and I didn't realize that I had 3 sets of paddles. I ended up refurbishing a 3-4 CX-40 with parts from Best Electronics. New rubber handle, new button/spring and for a couple of them I changed the contacts. Much cheaper than to get brand-new joysticks and except the usual markings on the rubber handle and scratched buttons, nothing wrong it. I have 3 CX-24 and 2 CX-78 joysticks for the 7800. I play pretty much all the time with the joypad, it's much easier to play with. I didn't realize I had four after-market joysticks. I think I will modify one of the yellow ones to have two joystick connections for Bump'n'Jump one of these days. There are a few controllers that I eventually would like to get. The Track&Field controller is high on my list, and perhaps I will treat myself to one in the next few months. I've also been keeping an eye out for the Epyx XJ500, I've always wanted one even back in the day when I had a C64 and that seemed to be the joystick to have. There's also the smaller Amiga joystick that came out in the mid 80s which I'd buy if I saw a good deal. As with everything else I find that the prices online have pretty much doubled in the last year.
  24. The Computeck joystick was very similar to the Quickshot 2 in that it used the same spring-flipper switches and it had a pistol grip. The base contained 2 extra trigger buttons and a sticker that said, “MADE IN TAIWAN”. It has no auto-fire circuit but the PC board has the traces to implement one. One might assume that the on-off switch would have been placed in a notch on the bottom. An emery board, borrowed from my wife’s manicure kit has found a permanent place in the tool box for cleaning and polishing contacts. She didn’t want it back when she saw what I was doing. I must have been using this joystick while I was still smoking. There is something about cleaning 20 year old nicotine off the equipment that makes me wonder how many joysticks have been destroyed due to second had smoke.
  25. This one was based on suggestions from the community, and my own frustration with fast-moving games like Stargate that require two controllers. Two loose factory controllers are fine for the slower games, but unless you have a contraption that holds the two together, very frustrating for the fast games. Originally this was going to be for the Atari 2600 only, but a number of 7800 fans voiced a desire for one that would work with their favorite system, so why not? Especially with Robotron available on that system! The leftmost pair of buttons corresponds to the left joystick, and the rightmost pair to the right joystyick. The two toggle switches on the back shuffle the A / B buttons in each pair when used on the 7800. When used on the 2600, both buttons perform the same function. The two joysticks are digital, but have the smooth feel of analog sticks. Case is made of steel, so it's a bit heavier than the average controller, but well-suited for tabletop use. Felt feet ensure that your prized hardwood table won't get all scratched up. Too early to tell how many of these will be produced. Like what you see? Please contact me for any info not presented here. Larry
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